In no wine does the Nebbiolo grape show the power of which it is capable as in Barolo. Made from grapes grown in and around the Piedmontese town from which the wine takes its name, Barolo at its best is big, rich, full bodied and intense, sometimes even "dusty" on the palate. Mouthfilling and long, these wines can take many years to develop, and when they do they are capable of achieving a velvety softness, elegance and remarkable finesse.

Barolo producers must be saying their prayers well these days, for the vintages of 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999 have all been superb. I must say though that the wines of 1998 may prove to be the best of the four year string, so many of them showing sweet, almost jamlike fruits and overlays of rosewater, tobacco and asphalt. On 16 and 17 June, I undertook a tasting of 36 of the 1998 wines. All but three earned scores of 90 or higher and six of which scored 95 or more. All in all, a very good year with wines very well worth searching out, some for relatively early consumption and others that will cellar comfortably until 2020 - 2025.

Alessandria, Barolo, San Giovanni, 1998: Deep garnet in color, this full bodied and powerful wine has ample enough tannins to come together beautifully with stewed, almost sweet black fruits, cedar wood and dark chocolate. Excellent balance here, but the wine needs time. Best drinking will start only in 2005 and the wine should store comfortably until 2015 - 2020. Score 92+.

Altare, Barolo, Arborina Altare, 1998: Magnificent! Full bodied, deep ruby red, packed with red cherries, currants and red plums all opening in layer after layer together with chocolate, mocha, earthy and mineral flavors and aromas. Remarkably smooth on the palate, and with sweet flavors that linger on and on, this elegant wine is drinking well even now and promises to continue developing well and then cellar until 2015 or longer. Score 95+.

Azelia, Barolo, San Rocco, 1998: Best words to describe this full bodied Barolo are rich, ripe and extravagant. Deep garnet towards purple, with smooth tannins and a comfortable overlay of sweetness from start to long finish, you will find plenty of black fruits, smoky wood and asphalt flavors and aromas here, all of which come together beautifully. Drink 2003 - 2018. Score 93+.

Azelia, Barolo, Bricco Fiasco, 1998: Full bodied, with firm tannins and equally firm sweetness, this deep ruby red wine is going to be one of the beauties of the vintage. Abundant currant, berry fruits along with delicious leather, earth and sweet soya sauce make this a luxurious wine, one with a long finish and that promises to cellar very nicely indeed. Drink now - 2012. Score 92.

Cavalloto, Barolo Brico Boschis, 1998: As much a liqueur as it is a wine, with candied fruits and sweet vanilla on the palate but with firm enough tannins and plenty of acids, the wine is very well balanced and rich. A sweet and intensely long finish
make this one difficult to match with food. Best as an after-dinner beverage, the wine needs until 2003 - 2004 to be fully ready. Look forward to cellaring until 2012 - 2015. Score 90.

Ceretto, Barolo, Bricco Rocche, 1998: Full bodied, with a deep royal purple towards garnet color, this deep wine offers up sweet cherry, soya and black fruit aromas and flavors all with mineral, burned earth that develop on the palate. Drink now - 2015 or longer. Score 93+.

Clerico, Barola Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, 1998: Deep ruby towards purple, this remarkably full bodied, powerful and complex wine unfolds slowly on the palate, first revealing black cherries, raspberries and flowers, these yielding to licorice, truffle and earthy aromas and flavors, all of which come together gloriously. Almost perfumed, with plenty of tannins and acids, and with a super-long finish, this one needs considerable time to develop and reveal its full charms. Best from 2005 or 2006 and then the wine will cellar comfortably until 2020 or longer. Score 95.

A. Conterno, Barolo Colonnello, 1998: Ruby towards purple, this dense, full bodied and chewy wine has a complex interplay between aromas and flavors that included sweet cherries, berries and roasted almonds. Plenty of tannins, good balance and the potential for long-term aging. Drink 2003 - 2020. Score 92.

A. Conterno, Barolo, Bussia Soprana, 1998: Deep ruby towards purple, this full bodied, almost chewy wine offers up generous red plums, cherries and currants, all nicely complemented by sweet wood, asphalt and licorice flavors and aromas. Firm and powerful but with elegance, the wine will be at its best from 2003 - 2015. Score 90.

Corino, Barolo, Vecchie Vigne, 1998: Deep ruby red towards garnet, this is one of the best of the vintage. Complex layers of aromas and flavors, included among which you will find raspberries, black cherries, earth, Mediterranean herbs, cedar wood, fresh leather, chocolate and black coffee. Happily these come together beautifully, folding and unfolding on the palate and then lingering beautifully. Powerful, sweet and intense but with remarkable elgance, the wine is already drinking beautifully but should cellar comfortably until the end of the decade. Score 95.

Corino, Barolo, Vigne Rocche, 1998: Clear brick red towards garnet, this full bodied wine is generous in its aromas and flavors of currants, plums and black cherries. But fruit is only the beginning of the story here, for the wine also boasts temptingly sweet cinnamon, spices and mocha flavors and aromas, all coming together beautifully on a long finish. Be there no question but that elegance is the key-word here. Drink 2003 - 2012. Score 92+.

Corino, Barolo, Vigne Gianchinni, 1998: Full bodied and intense, with ample cherries, minerals and a hint of sweet licorice, this notably sweet wine offers elegance and length. An abundance of firm tannins that still make themselves felt from beginning to end mean that this is a wine still in need of further cellaring. Drink 2006 - 2015 or longer. Score 91.

Corino, Barolo, Vigne Arborino, 1998: Deep ruby red, this medium to full bodied wine has already integrating smooth tannins, and aromas and flavors of black fruits, and licorice. Surprisingly sweet but with plenty of natural acidity to add balance, the wine is drinking well now and should cellar until 2006 - 2008. Score 88.

Luigi Einaudi, Barolo, Costa Grimaldi, 1998: Full bodied, tannic, concentrated and as deep in flavors and aromas as it is in color, this is a wine that is going to open beautifully revealing ample black fruits, chocolate and tobacco. Not for now, but give this one until 2005 before you start drinking and you will find a dense and compact but elegant wine. The wine should cellar comfortably until 2020. Score 94.

Luigi Einaudi, Barolo, Nei Cannubi, 1998: Another 1998 winner from Einaudi, this full bodied and intense wine is one that is going to show power, concentration and, given time, elegance. Deep ruby towards garnet and full bodied, the wine shows black fruits, truffles, smoke, tar and tannins so deep they might be considered potent. This one demands waiting. Best drinking from 2006 - 2020 or longer. Score 93.

Luigi Einaudi, Barolo, 1998: Dark ruby in color, this traditional Barolo shows tempting sweet fruits, cigar tobacco and rosewater, all on smooth tannins. Deep and almost brooding, with sweet, almost jammy fruits and overlays of asphalt, rosewater, chocolate and tobacco, this well balanced and generous wine is still somewhat closed due to its youth. Best drinking 2005 - 2015 or longer. Score 91.

Conterno Fantino, Barolo, Vigna del Gris, 1998: Deep red towards purple, this medium to full bodied and elegant wine has excellent balance between soft tannins, natural acidity and fruits, with black cherry, rosewater, sweet oak and cigar box aromas and flavors generous on the palate. Hold for a year or two and then drink comfortably until 2015. Score 91.

Conterno Fantino, Barolo Sori Ginestra, 1998: Deep royal purple, this full bodied and elegant wine offers up flavors and aromas of candied berries and cherries along with generous hints of smoky oak, earthiness and tar. Smooth, well balanced and with a long finish the wine needs time. Best from 2003 until 2015. Score 91.

Bruno Giacosa, Barolo, Falletto di Serralunga, 1998: Another viable candidate for best of the vintage honors. Full bodied and tannic the wine is as deep in its purplish-black color as it is in flavors and aromas. First impressions are of sweet cherries, white truffles, and mocha, but as those become part of the palate, you will also find tempting hints of asphalt and berry jam. So well balanced that the firm tannins do not seem to interfere with the pleasure of the wine. Score 96+.

Silvio Grasso, Barolo, Ciabot Manzoni, 1998: Dark ruby red, full bodied and with elegant sweet fruits, rosewater, asphalt and an abundance of wood but all very nicely balanced with smooth tannins and good acidity. Almost liqueurlike on the finish, the wine is drinking nicely now and should cellar well until 2015. Score 94.

Marcarini, Barolo, La Serra, 1998: Deep royal purple in color, this full bodied and still firm wine has complex layers of black fruits, wild berries, granite and sweet candied cherries at the end. Give this one time to develop though. Best drinking 2003 - 2012. Score 90.

Marcarini, Barolo Brunate, 1998: Dark reddish purple, this full bodied, tannic and powerful wine is another example of the up-front fruit wines of '98. Currants and plums rise to the fore here but those are followed very nicely by aromas and flavors of chocolate, earthiness and tobacco. Concentrated and rich, the wine is drinkable now but will be at its best from 2003 - 2010. Score 90.

Manzone, Barolo, Bricat Gramloere, 1998: Deep ruby red, this sweet and rich medium to full bodied wine has plenty of up-front fruit currants, black cherries and raspberries fruits along with generous hints of chocolate and, on the long finish, a pleasing sensation of spring flowers. Well balanced and with already well integrated smooth tannins, the wine is drinkable now but should cellar well until 2008 - 2010. Score 91.

Manzone, Barola, La Gramolere, 1998: Ruby red in color, this medium to full bodied wine shows good balance between abundant but soft tannins, natural acidity and fruits. Look for aromas and flavors of black cherries, wild berries and leather here. If you can call a Barolo lively, this is that Barolo, distinctly New World in style and ready for drinking now - 2005. Score 88.

Manzone, Barolo, San Stefano di Perno, 1998: Bright ruby red, this full bodied wine has remarkably smooth tannins, plenty of lively acidity and an abundance of berry, cherry, leather aromas that interplay nicely on the palate. A long finish in which you will find earthy and sweet herbal sensations. Score 93.

Molino, Barolo, 1998: Deep royal purple in color, this medium to full bodied and still tightly closed wine shows the promise of opening to reveal ample black cherry, chocolate , licorice and herbal aromas and flavors all on a firm base of medium tannins that will integrate well given time. Drink 2004 - 2015. Score 90.

Parusso, Barolo, Bussia Vigna Munie, 1998: Considering how full bodied and muscular this wine is, it may surprise to realize that beneath that power lies remarkable grace and elegance. Good dark fruits here along with chocolate, leather, earthy aromas and flavors, all of which come together with abundant but smooth tannins.Give this one time and will appear amazingly delicate on the palate. Try one bottle now and then another anywhere from 2005 - 2010 to enjoy the differences that will develop. Score 91.

Parusso, Baroloa, Bussia Vigna Rocche, 1998: If it is Old-World powerful Barolo that you want, this is the wine for you! So full bodied that you may think of the wine as "thick" and with almost biting tannins but with concentrated dark fruit, earthy, chocolate and menthol flavors and aromas, the wine will be at its best starting only in 2003 - 2004 and then, with appropriate cellaring, well until 2012 - 2015. Score 90.

Pira, Barolo, Vigna Rionda, 1998: Full bodied, concentrated and with an array of flavors and aromas that include (at minimum) plums, black cherries, chocolate, tea and cigar tobacco, this tannic and powerful wine shows precisely the exquisite kind of balance that is necessary to ensure a long life and elegance as the wine matures. Drink 2005 - 2015 or longer. Score 95.

Pira, Barolo, Margheria, 1998: Deep ruby red with orange and green reflections, this full bodied, complex and long wine offers up generous flavors and aromas of black cherries, chocolate, smoke and herbs, with delicious licorice coming in on the very long finish. Lots of tannins here and although that may make the wine difficult to match with food, this is an ideal "reflection wine". Best from 2004 - 2020. Score 92.

Pira, Barolo Margheria, 1998: Deep purple in color, this full bodied and concentrated wine shows delicious sweet cherry, chocolate, cedar wood and mineral flavors and aromas. With good balance and a long aftertaste. Drink 2005 - 2015. Score 90.

Fratelli Revello, Barolo, 1998: So powerful and muscular and with a clear hint of eau de vie de framboises (raspberry brandy) that you might be tempted to think of this exquisite wine more as a liqueur than a wine. Fair enough though, for there are ample tannins, delicious cherry, tobacco and mineral flavors and aromas here to carry the wine nicely. Drink 2003 - 2010. Score 89.

Paolo Scavino, Barolo, Cannubi, 1998: One of the viable candidates for best of the vintage, this full bodied and remarkably well rounded wine seems almost to boast with flavors and aromas that continue to burst forward. Among other things, look for generous sweet berries, black cherries and plums, all together with overlays of mint, rosewater, cedar wood and peppermint. Firm tannins here, but those so well integrated and the wine so well balanced that the wine is already very enjoyable. Drink now - 2018. Score 96.

Paolo Scavino, Barolo, 1998: Full bodied and dense, with powerful but already well integrating tannins, this deep purple wine offers up generous black cherry, eucaluptus, asphalt and smoky flavors. Mouthfilling and with a long aftertaste, the wine will drink nicely from 2003 - 2012. Score 90.

Paolo Scavino, Barolo Carobric, 1998: Medium to full bodied and with a deep ruby color, this lively and appealing wine has generous berry, plum, cedar wood and peppermint flavors and aromas, plenty of firm but smooth tannins and a very appealing sweet-smoky oak overlay. Drink 2003 - 2015. Score 90.

Veglio, Barolo, Castelletto, 1998: With so many up-front fruits some will consider this a New World wine, but that would be an error, for given time those fruits will subside to reveal in addition to currants, berries and black cherries, an underlying mine of mineral, chocolate, and earthy aromas and flavors. Deep ruby towards purple, this still imposing wine offers up many sensations of sweetness. Hold this one until 2005 and then drink comfortably until 2015 - 2020. Score 91.

© Daniel Rogov