Rogov's Ramblings
Bavaria - Not only Schnitzels

Unless otherwise noted, the following recipes are based on a meal I ate in the 500 year old restaurant and hotel known as "Posthotel Partenkirchen" in the Bavarian town of Garmisch several years ago. The dishes are all traditional and unless otherwise noted, each of the recipes is designed to serve 6.

Chicken, Ham and Artichoke Salad
Huhner und Schinken Salat

1 cups celery, cut into julienne strips
1 cups cooked artichoke hearts, cut in thin strips
1/2 cup vinaigrette sauce and finely chopped parsley
2 cups cooked chicken breasts, julienned
2 cups elbow macaroni or maccheroni, cooked
1 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup chili sauce
4 hard boiled eggs, whites and yolks chopped separately
1 cups cooked ham or non-fatty smoked goose breast, chopped finely
1/2 cups black olives, chopped finely (optional)
1/2 cups parsley, chopped finely

In a mixing bowl combine the celery and artichoke hearts and over this pour the vinaigrette sauce. Toss gently and then let stand, covered, to marinate for 45 minutes. With a slotted spoon remove the celery and artichoke hearts and discard the sauce. Combine the celery, artichokes, chicken and macaroni.

In a separate mixing bowl combine the mayonnaise and chili sauce and into this toss the chicken mixture. Transfer to serving bowls and smooth over the top. In the center of the each bowl place the egg yolks. Around these make a circle of the ham or goose breast, then of the parsley, the egg whites and olives. Place on the table and toss immediately before serving.

Cream of Asparagus Soup
Sparglecremsuppe

1/2 kilo fresh green asparagus, well washed
3/4 cups milk
1 1/2 liters chicken stock
1/2 cups celery, chopped
1/4 cup onion, chopped
1/4 cup butter about
3 Tbsp. flour
1/4 cup sweet cream
salt, white pepper and paprika to taste

Trim the tips of the asparagus and simmer them in 1/2 cup of the milk until the tips are tender (about 8 - 10 minutes). Take care not to let the mixture boil during cooking.

Cut the stalks of the asparagus into pieces and place them in a saucepan with the stock, celery and onion. Simmer, covered, for about 1/2 hour and then rub through a sieve.

Melt the butter and into this stir in the flour, stirring until well blended. To this slowly add the cream, remaining milk and asparagus stock. Heat in a double boiler over hot water and add the asparagus tips. Immediately before serving season to taste with salt, pepper and paprika.

Schnitzel a la Holstein

6 large veal schnitzels, pounded very thin
the juice of 1 large lemon
salt and pepper to taste
flour as required
3 eggs, beaten together with 3 Tablespoons cold water
breadcrumbs as required
chicken, pork or vegetable fat for frying
butter as required
6 eggs
12 anchovy fillets
2 Tablespoons capers
12 very thin slices smoked salmon (optional)
3 Tablespoons caviar (optional)
lemon wedges for serving

Sprinkle the veal schnitzels with lemon juice about 30 minutes before they are to be fried. Pat the schnitzels dry and sprinkle one side of each with salt and pepper. Dip the schnitzels into the flour until they are lightly coated and shake off whatever excess flour adheres. Dip the schnitzels next into the beaten eggs and then into the breadcrumbs, coating well. Let stand at room temperature for 20 - 30 minutes.

In a large heavy skillet heat fat about 2 cm. deep and in this slowly fry two or three cutlets at a time, turning once so that both sides are golden brown (4 - 6 minutes per side). Drain on paper towels and keep the cutlets warm while the others are frying.

While the cutlets are frying, heat butter in a clean skillet and in this fry the eggs, being careful not to break the yolks. To serve, place each schnitzel on a separate plate. On each schnitzel place a fried egg, 2 anchovy fillets and a teaspoon of capers. If desired, surround each schnitzel with two slices of the smoked salmon and over these distribute the caviar. Serve at once with lemon wedges. (Serves 6).

Roast Goose with Onion, Apple and Celery Stuffing
A recipe from Zum Alde Gott

1 cup seedless raisins
2 cups Madeira wine
1/2 cup butter
1 large onion, chopped finely
1 sour apple, peeled, cored and chopped
the liver of 1 goose or duck, cut in small cubes
1 cup celery, chopped
1/2 cup pecans, chopped coarsely
4 cups toasted bread cubes
1/2 tsp. sage
salt and pepper to taste
1 goose or duck, about 2 1/2 kilos
juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 cup chicken stock

Place the raisins in a small pan and pour over about 1/2 cup of the Madeira wine. Heat over a low flame just until bubbles begin to appear at the edges of the liquid and then remove from the flame. Let stand for 5 minutes and then pour off and reserve whatever wine that has not been absorbed. Reserve the raisins separately.

In a large heavy frying pan melt 6 Tablespoons of the butter and in this saute together the onion, apple and goose liver. When the onion is translucent add the celery, mix well and remove from the flame. Add the pecans and raisins and then transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Add the toasted bread cubes, sage and salt and pepper to taste. Let cool.

Sprinkle the inside of the bird with salt and pepper, pack it loosely with the stuffing and sew up the opening. Tie the bird, spread the skin with the remaining butter and sprinkle with salt. Place the goose breast side up on a roasting rack in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius for 20 minutes.

While the bird is roasting, mix together 1/2 cup of the Madeira with 1/2 cup of water and the lemon juice. Turn the bird to one side, base with the Madeira mixture and reduce the oven temperature. to 160 degrees Celsius and continue to roast for 30 minutes longer. Turn the bird to its other side, baste again, and roast for an additional 30 minutes. Turn the bird so it is breast side up and continue to roast until the bird is done (1 1/2 - 2 hours longer, depending on the size of the bird), basting every 15 minutes with the Madeira mixture. Be sure to remove the fat from the pan several times during the roasting.

Transfer the bird to a serving platter, remove the trussing and set aside to keep warm. Pour off the remaining fat from the pan, add « cup of Madeira wine and heat over a medium-high flame, scraping the sides and bottom of the pan well with a wooden spatula. Add the stock and cornflour and simmer gently until this sauce thickens (about 5 minutes), stirring constantly. Correct the seasoning of the sauce with salt and pepper to taste, spoon a little of the sauce over the bird and serve the remaining sauce separately. Serve hot. (Serves 4 - 6).

Potato Cake
Kartoffelkuchen

16 large potatoes, boiled in their skins a day before the cake is made
3/4 cup butter salt to taste

Peel, slice and cut the potatoes into julienne strips. In several large heavy skillets heat the butter, add the potatoes, season with salt and toss with a spatula until the butter is absorbed. Spread the potatoes in 3 or 4 round cake pans and sprinkle the top of each with 1 Tbsp. cold water. Cover with flat lids or plates that fits inside the pan and cook over a low flame until a golden crust is formed on the bottom (15 - 20 minutes). When done, invert the pan onto the lid and then slide onto a heated plate. Cut like a pie for serving.

Rum and Raisin Crepes
Kaiserschmarren

1 1/2 cup raisins
6 Tbsp. rum
about 60 crepes, made in the usual way
2 1/4 cups butter
3 cups sugar
1 Tbsp. powdered cinnamon

In a small bowl soak the raisins in the rum for 3 - 4 hours.

After the crepes have been made, use two forks to tear the crepes into small strips.

In a large heavy skillet melt the butter add to this the raisins, sugar, cinnamon and crepe pieces. Over a low flame toss lightly until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed and just until the sugar begins to melt (about 2 minutes). Serve immediately, ideally with freshly made sweetened whipped cream in separate bowls.

To read about travelling and dining in Bavaria, click here.

 

 

© Daniel Rogov

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