Many people have asked me about the origins and "correct" way to make Bechamel sauce. Named after Louis de Bechameil, this simple sauce is crucial to fine cooking. What is odd, however, is that no one is quite certain precisely who invented the sauce that carries Bechameil's name.

What is known is that after the uprising of the aristocracy and the parliament against Mazarin in 1648, Bechameil, who was the Marquis of Nointel became the economic advisor to King Louis XIV. Although the Marquis is sometimes credited with the invention of Sauce Bechamel, there are no letters or other records to let us know whether he was either a gourmet or a cook

Despite popular mythology, it is far more probable that one of the chefs in the royal kitchens dedicated the sauce to him. The only person who ever complained about this was the Duke of Escaise who wrote to a friend that "Bechameil has all the luck. I was serving breast of chicken in cream sauce twenty years before he was born, but I have never had my name given to what is probably the most insignificant of sauces.

Sauce Bechamel is one of the very few French sauces that is easy to prepare but is flavorful and delicate enough to serve on its own or as the basis for some fifty more complex sauces. Originally made by adding sweet cream to a thick sauce based on chicken, veal or fish stock, the sauce is now made by pouring milk on a blend of butter and flour. The sauce, which is widely used with vegetables, eggs, fish, poultry, hot hors d'oeuvres and dishes that are finished under the grill, can be made in two ways. The first recipe that follows is considered traditional and takes more than an hour to prepare. The second will take only about 5 minutes. Some people (including this writer) swear that the first is better. Others say that it is impossible to tell the difference between the two. I suggest that all cooks try both methods at least once before deciding on which method best suits their needs.

Bechamel Sauce - Traditional Method

5 Tbsp. clarified butter
50 gr. very lean veal , cut in small dice
5 Tbsp. flour
3 cups milk, brought to a boil before using
2 Tbsp. onion, chopped
1 small sprig thyme
1/4 or 1/2 bay leaf
pinch of nutmeg
salt and white pepper

In a small skillet melt 1 Tbsp. of the butter and in this cook the veal gently without allowing it to brown. (Note: the veal may be eliminated from the recipe. In that case the sauce is properly known as "Bechamel Maigre").

In a saucepan melt the remaining butter and to this add the flour and cook together over a low flame, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon for 5 minutes. To this mixture (which is known as a "roux"), add the boiling milk, mix well, add the veal and remain- ing ingredients and simmer very gently for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Strain through a cloth. (See hints following second recipe).

Bechamel Sauce - Quick Method

3 Tbsp. butter
4 1/2 Tbsp. flour
3 cups of milk heated to boiling with 1/4 tsp. salt
salt and white pepper to taste

In saucepan melt the butter over low flame. Blend in the flour and cook slowly, stirring until the butter and flour froth together for 2 minutes, taking care not to let the mixture brown.

Remove this mixture from the heat and as soon as it has stopped bubbling pour in the hot milk all at once. Immediately beat the mixture vigorously with a wire whisk to blend the liquid and roux, making sure to gather in all of the bits of rough that may have stuck to the inside edges of the pan. Set the sauce over moderately high flame and stir with the wire whip until the sauce comes to the boil. Boil for 1 minute, stirring, remove from the heat and beat in salt and white pepper to taste.

Hints about Bechamel Sauce

- When making Bechamel sauce, always use a heavy bottomed enamel- led stainless steel or pyrex pot to prevent the sauce from burning in the bottom of the pot.

- When called for, this sauce can be made by adding a whole onion into which 3 or 4 whole cloves have been stuck.

- Once the sauce is done, if it is lumpy force it through a fine sieve or process it in an electric blender and then simmer gently for 5 minutes. If the sauce is too thick, bring to a simmer and thin with milk which is beaten in a tablespoon at a time. If the sauce is too thin, blend 1/2 Tbsp. of butter into a paste with 1 Tbsp. of flour. Off the heat, beat this paste into the sauce with a wire whisk, and then boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly.

- If not using the sauce immediately, float a thin film of milk or melted butter on the top of the sauce and set aside uncovered or keep it hot by placing it in the top pot of a double boiler over hot but not boiling water.

Sauces Based on Bechamel

Cream Sauce is nothing more than Bechamel sauce that has been enriched with sweet cream. With either of the recipes above, bring the sauce to a simmer and, a tablespoonful at a time beat in 1/2 cup of sweet cream, simmering and mixing constantly until the sauce is at the consistency you want. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon juice.

Sauce Mornay: Bring the Bechamel to a boil, remove from the heat and beat in 1/4 - 1/2 cup of coarsely grated Gruyere cheese or a Gruyere and finely grated Parmesan cheese. Season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg and hot paprika. Remove from the heat and then stir in 1 Tbsp. of butter.

Sauce Aurore: Bring the Bechamel to a simmer and then, a Tablespoonful at a time, stir in 2 - 6 Tbsp. tomato puree until you have achieved the color and flavor desired. . Correct the seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the flame and just before serving stir in 1 - 2 Tbsp. of butter and finely chopped fresh parsley, basil or tarragon to taste.

© Daniel Rogov