There is nothing new about beer. In ancient Sumeria people were drinking it 4,500 years ago and it is known that the members of the ruling classes were concerned because their slaves would often become drunk from drinking too much beer. By 1,750 B.C.E. more than 40% of the grain harvested in Sumer was used for beer production, and the average laborer received a ration of about a liter a day, and senior dignitaries five times as much. Because they could not possibly have drunk all of that beer, some of it was actually used as currency. So popular had beer houses become in the region that the author of the Code of Hammurabi devoted a special section to condemning some of those places for their "under-strength, over-priced beer".

Despite the charms of such beers, however, texts uncovered by archaeologists who have explored the region reveal that most of the beers of those ancient days would have been undrinkable by today's standards. Because the process of fermentation was a hit-and-miss affair, sometimes succeeding and sometimes producing viscous and terribly bitter beverages, most beer drinkers must have felt a quiver of fear whenever they opened a fresh jar. Beer, like wine, continued to be made in much of the Middle-East and North Africa until the Moslem occupation in the 7th century put a twelve century stop to its production. All of which was probably just as well, for the beer of those days was never particularly valued, one Roman visitor to Jerusalem claiming that "one had little luck with the local brew, for if it was not too watery it was too bitter, or if not those it was to sweet, or if not that it was simply too terrible".

The times, happily, have changed and finding truly great beers anywhere in the world is no longer a difficult task. In New York, as in Cairo, Tel Aviv, Manilla and even on Fiji pubs and markets have a stock of beers ranging from the truly great to the out-and-out bad from Belgium, Denmark, Czechoslovakia, France, Mexico, Japan, England, Ireland, and even Australia. Whether on tap or from bottles, beer is now one of the most socially accepted beverages people in any nation where alcoholic beverages are not forbidden because of religious reasons.

Just for the record, the date at the time of this writing is 31 May, 2001, and in the last week, in addition to my morning wine tastings I devoted my evenings to tasting thirty-three beers. Following are my notes on those:

Belgium

La Chouffe - Blonde d'Ardenne: From the vicinity of the Ardennes Mountains and relying on soft, almost pine-flavored water from a natural artesian well, the light and dark beers of this Belgian mini-brewery have developed a world-wide cult following among those sophisticated enough to enjoy their beers heavy, cloudy and with flavors that include distinctive overtones of sweet and bitter herbs. The lighter beer, categorized as a "Blonde d'Ardenne", has an 8% alcohol content. Cloudy, and when poured correctly, with a luxurious head, this is a beer that pleases with its aromatic and yeasty aromas, its full flavor of hops and barley and its depth and richness. Like wines, the beers of this brewery come in 750 cl. bottles, and in case you're wondering, "La Chouffe" means "gnome" in Flemish and no one can help but falling in love with the bearded, red hooded gnome that decorates the bottles, coasters and special glasses that come with this beer.

La Chouffe - McChouffe: Categorized as "brune" but more accurately described as almost black. With attractive reflections of ruby red and a thick, long lasting head, this hand-crafted beer is flavored with coriander and has remarkable complexity and is a beer that can be drunk now or set aside, like a fine wine, to continue developing in the bottle for up to five more years. Like wines, the La Chouffe beers come in dark green bottles of either 750 cl. or 1.5 liters.

La Trappe: Produced by Trappist monks at the monastery at Onze Lieve Vroow van Kongingshoeven, not far from the Dutch-Belgian border near the city of Tilburg, the four beers from this brewery are among the most interesting to appear in recent years. Made at the brewery known as Schaapskoi (literally, sheep's pen), each of these beers has its unique charm. The Enkel which has a 5.5% alcohol content is a light, bright ale, with lovely aromas and flavors of hops and the Dubbel, with 6.5% of alcohol, is darker, almost black with red overtones, has remarkably aromatic and is remarkably refreshing. The Tripel, which is a dark lager style beer, has an 8% alcohol content and delicious fruity and bittersweet flavors, and the Quadrupel, with its high 10% alcohol content is strong, full bodied and flavored and has a distinct and rewarding bitterness. Definitely worth trying.

Kriek: Produced by the Belle-Vue Brewery, Kriek is a dark colored, full flavored, moderately alcoholic beer (5.2%) with the addition of just enough cherry juice to make itself nicely felt. What makes the beer especially interesting is the well-balanced flavor combination between sweet, sour and bitter.

Leffe Blonde: One of the world's best known beers. Light gold in color, light in body, and with a 6.6% alcohol content, this remarkably refreshing beer has a long lasting head, an aromatic bouquet of cloves, vanilla and English pepper and a light hint of citrus fruits in its flavor.

Leffe Brown 6 and Leffe Brown Triple 8: Many think that the major difference between these two beers is that the first has a 6.5% alcohol content and the second 8.2%. They are far different than that, however, the first having aromas and flavors of apples and pears, the second of lemon and vanilla, and the second being far heavier in the mouth.

Hoegaarden, White Beer: Made since the 15th century in the small village from which the brewery takes its name, this beer is unusual because instead of being clear it is cloudy and hazy. This unusual appearance results from a high wheat content and because the beer, which is fermented a second time in the bottle, is intentionally left unfiltered. With a 5.5% alcohol content, this thirst quenching beer has a thick, creamy head, and hints of coriander and dried orange peel in its flavors and aromas.

Hoegaarden, Grand Cru: A distinctly peach colored beer. With its high 8.7% alcohol content, the beer has a fruity aroma in which one finds generous hints of orange peel and spices and complex, somewhat sweetish flavors that linger nicely in the mouth.

Kwak: Another of Belgium's best known beers. Some say that the beer is so famous because it is served in a special glass that is tapered from the top and then widens to a balloon shape on the bottom. Others, including beer critic Michael Jackson, say that the beer is famous because it is so tasty. Personally, I find it difficult to drink from those special glasses but because this medium-light beer is so full of flavor and richness I accept that as a minor and amusing problem.

Stella Artois: Even though this beer is produced in Belgium, it has for many years been one of the most popular beers in France. The beer has a medium deep gold color, forms a good head when poured and has an attractive mild level of bitterness. Despite that, it is considered by most Frenchmen as a "working man's quaff" and if I strolled into a Parisian or Brussels bar or cafe on a hot day and was given a glass, I would probably enjoy it. On the other hand, however, this is nothing more than a rather standard mass produced beer and I doubt very much that I would go out of my way to search for it.

Scandinavia

Tuborg Green: This relatively light Pilsner style beer, which is produced under license all over the world seems to improve every time I taste it. Light to medium bodied, with charming aromas of wild flowers, grass and freshly cut hay, and with just the right level of bitterness, this is a good choice for summertime drinking for those who enjoy light beers.

Tuborg Red: Also produced locally under license in many countries, this somewhat heavier, somewhat darker beer has clean, refreshing aromas and flavors. Well balanced and with an attractive but not exaggerated feeling of the hops, the beer is well suited to Mediterranean cuisine.

Skol: From the multinational Carlsberg comes this light Scandinavian style beer. With a minimum of bitterness, and flavors and aromas that call to mind yeast and wild flowers, this pleasant and refreshing but not at all deep or complex beer will probably find a receptive audience among the young.

U.S.A.

Millers Draft Beer: I have always smiled rather tolerantly at bottled or tinned beers that we are told are draft beers. There is, after all, an oxymoron involved there. It is true that some tinned or bottled "draft" beers or stouts have a small plastic capsule that has been filled with nitrogen gas. When the tin or the bottle is opened the nitrogen is released into the beer, producing a good foamy head and small but just sharp enough bubbles. As far as I could see, Miller's Draft has no such gadget in its bottles and even though the beer has somewhat sharper bubbles than the regular version, it does not produce the true draft flavor. A beer as light in color as it is in flavor and body, this is a longtime favorite of Americans (especially at baseball and football games). Those who like their beers on the light and not at all complex side may find this one worth trying.

Ireland

Guinness Stout and Murphy's Irish Stout: For the uninitiated stout, which is the Irish national drink, is a dark, almost black, beer that has the pronounced taste of malt and hops and combines just a hint of bitterness with an overlay of sweetness. Many consider stout to be among the most delicious beverages in the world. Both of these versions are excellent, and both are at their best together with food (Irish stew, beef Bourguignonne, hot roast beef, shepherd's pie). Many who find stout to strong on its own like drinking it as a Black & Tan which is made by mixing equal quantities of stout and lighter beer in the same glass. Others enjoy the drink known as Black Velvet, in which stout and Champagne are combined in equal proportions.

Kilkenny: Often referred to in Ireland as Kilkenny Harp, this light, delicious and thirst-quenching beer has a long lasting head, flavors of hops and wheat that are clean and long lasting. Good in bottles, which are available in many stores, but even better when served on tap when standing with one foot raised alongside the bar.

Israel

Macabee: Like American "Budweiser", this beer lacks body, seems so light that it feels almost watery and has neither depth of flavor nor aromas that tempt. Precisely why this remains one of the most popular beers in the country eludes me completely.

Goldstar: I continue to be aware that drinking imported beers is "in" in certain circles. I am also aware, however, and cannot help but remind my Israeli readers that the locally produced Goldstar, either in bottles or on tap is as rewarding as any medium bodied lager beer that you will find anywhere. Consider the possibility of ordering a Goldstar and two other similar but imported beers, tasting them side by side and realizing that "being in" is not always the best place to be.

Turkey

Efes Pilsener: Despite its attractive blonde color, this beer has a head that fades far too quickly and flavors that are just a bit too neutral, lacking bitterness or richness. The only positive thing about the beer is that it costs less than most of the other beers you will find on the shelves these days.

Canada

Labatt Ice: A beer supposedly special because it is brewed in tanks whose temperature has been reduced to 0 degrees Celsius. I have sampled this beer on several occasions and, as hard as I could try, could find nothing special about it.

Australia

Foster's: Founded in 1886, Foster's is a huge concern, with 20 breweries exporting beer to 130 countries. Unfortunately, like the beers of many very large companies, theirs is rather standard, lacking the kind of body, depth or complexity of either flavor or aroma that might set it aside from any of dozens of competing products. My guess is that those this beer will find the same fans as those who like American Budweiser (the most popular beer at baseball games), or think that Archie Bunker looked "cool" dressed in an undershirt as he simultaneously guzzled beer, screamed at his wife and children and watched television.

Mexico

Corona: Smooth, light and with just bare hints of bitterness, this is one of the most controversial beers in the world, devotees claiming that it has godlike qualities and others saying that it merely reflects a Norte-Americano passion for things Mexican and lacks any of the qualities of truly fine beers. As to me, I'll go for Corona with Mexican or Tex-Mex food just for the simple pleasure of staying with a fun tradition.

Dos Equis XX: With a dark amber color, full body and richness of flavor, this smooth beer has an alcoholic content of about 4.75%. Rich in flavor and with a creamy head, the beer is justifiably popular throughout North and Central America.

Carta Blanca: Light in color and body, with appealing flavors and aromas of yeast, hops and fresh cut grass, this is a smooth, easy to drink beer. Calling it "great" would be an exaggeration. Calling it "fun" would not be.

Japan

Kirin and Sappora: Drink either of these well beloved beers in Japan and you will have a real treat waiting for you. Drink them in most of the Western World and you will be at least somewhat disappointed, for the Kirin is produced in England the Sappora in Ireland. While the Japanese companies that produce both beers ship the malt, hops, yeasts and other ingredients from their Far-Eastern factories, the water used is most definitely not the same and don't let anyone kid you - water is a critical ingredient in making any beer and the quality and flavor of that ingredient determines which beers will be truly special and which not. Whatever, both Kirin and Sappora are medium bodied lager beers, and both are fresh and refreshing but not that special.

Germany

Clausthaler: This is the first non-alcoholic beer available in many countries. It is true that beers without alcohol have become increasingly popular in recent years. Despite this, I have yet to find a non-alcoholic beer that meets the standards of aroma, body and flavor required to make a truly interesting beverage. Even though the beer has an attractive blonde color and aromas that hint nicely of hops and yeast, the beer lacks body, depth or any hint of complexity. True… its "like" beer but I cannot help but be reminded of the adage to the effect that "if its like an egg, its not as good as an egg".

© Daniel Rogov