The cities of Epernay and Reims, both of which are located in the heart of Champagne country, are only about two hours from Paris by car. Before making the journey, however, one will do well to realize that the grapes of this region have not so much produced wine as they have a mythology.

More than any other wine, Champagne is associated with a superior way of life. Attributed a soul, a temperament and qualities of wit and wisdom, many Frenchmen are convinced that Champagne, like anold and loyal friend, can do them no harm, no matter how much of it they drink. Madame de Pompadour declared that "it is the only wine that makes a woman more beautiful after drinking" and Josephine Beauharnais, the not always faithful wife of Napoleon, wrote to her sister that "the thought of making love without a bottle of Champagne alongside my bed is merely silly". So much a part of the culture of France is this delightful beverage that the French men or women who reject it have to explain and justify their attitude, for in France the person who does not believe in Champagne is sick, disabled or depraved.

What Makes Champagne Special?

In 1688, when Dom Perignon, a Benedictine Monk, was placed in charge of the wine cellars of the Abbey of Hautvilliers near Epernay, his odd ideas about making wine made his colleagues wonder whether he was a clairvoyant, a saint or somewhat of a madman. Several years later, at least if one accepts the popular mythology of France, this untutored chemist had the brilliant idea of adding small amounts of yeast and sugar to bottles of wine. This led to a secondary fermentation which in turn released gas under pressure into the wine. Dom Perignon had discovered a way to make wine sparkle and since then sparkling Champagne has become the foundation for an entire mythology.

What makes Champagne special, regardless of who precisely discovered the current way to make it, is that fermented grape juices, the produce of many different vineyards, are blended and then bottled with a mixture of sugar and yeast to make it ferment a second time. This produces carbon dioxide which, since it is sealed in, dissolves in the wine and creates the fizz. Because the yeast forms an ugly deposit, the bottles are stored with their heads facing down and are turned occasionally, thus forcing this deposit to flow downwards towards the corks. This process is known as "riddling". Towards the end of this process, which takes anywhere from 6 months to 2 years, the necks of the bottles are placed in an icy-cold brine solution. This freezes the sediment which can then be expelled.

Because the fermentation process has eaten up all of the sugar, the wine is now completely dry, verging on sourness and is given a dose of a bit more sugar. Finally it is corked with special corks that seal it hermetically. The neck of the bottle is then encircled with wire-mesh so that the pressure of the gas in the bottle does not blow the cork out again. The tops of the bottles are then wrapped in gold or silver foil and the wine is finally ready to start its magic.

Keep in mind that there are four major categories of Champagne - brut, which is very dry; sec, which is dry, demi-sec which is really quite sweet, and the really sweet riche, which is essentially a dessert wine.

Buying Champagne

The first thing to keep in mind when making purchases is that Champagne that comes from any of the great houses is all good, whether from a vintage year or not. The top Champagne producers (referred to as "houses") are Bollinger, Charles Heidsiek, Krug, Lanson, Laurent Perrier, Louis Roederer, Mercier, Moet et Chandon, Mumm, Perrier-Jouet, Piper-Heidsieck, Pol Roger, Pommery et Greno and Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin. To say that one is better than another is not so much a reflection of quality as it is merely to show a preference for the style and character of one or another.

The second thing worth remembering is that vintage Champagne always costs much more than non-vintage. Because the differences in quality are not all that great, I nearly always purchase non-vintage (n.v.) Champagne. Even with that disclaimer in mind, one must admit that the years of 1985 and 1988 were truly great years for nearly all of the Champagne houses.

Those relatively new to drinking Champagne should also keep in mind, especially when driving, that the natural carbon dioxide in Champagne is instantly absorbed by the wall of the stomach. This in turn quickens the movement of alcohol to the brain. It is, therefore, no myth that Champagne can make one tipsy more rapidly than other wines.

Following are reviews of some of the vintage and non-vintage Champagnes I have tasted recently. Others of my Champagne reviews can be seen by referring to my wine note pages.

Krug, 1985: Rich, marvellously dry, with layer after layer of flavors that unfold to give the wine elegance and depth, this is beyond question one of the greatest Champagnes of the century. The wine is still young, and will continue to age nicely for 20 or more years. Score 96.

Moet & Chandon, Dom Perignon 1988: Toasty, complex and rich, this is a fine wine, faulted only because it has aged more rapidly than expected. The wine will probably reach its peak in 2 - 3 more years. Score 91.

Veuve Clicquot, n.v.: Perhaps my personal favorite of all non-vintage Champagnes, the wines of this great producer are always extraordinarily rich, full bodied, warm, firm, well balanced and full flavored. When I can afford it (which is not often), I prefer the vintage La Grand Dame (scores 1985 - 97, 1988 - 96), but I am usually quite happy with the non-vintage Champagne which meets all of my standards for high quality.

Moet & Chandon, Brut Imperiale, n.v.: This wine is almost as good as its reputation would have us believe. Always light and perfectly dry, many like its almond-like flavor. Score 90.

Pol Roger, n.v.: Definitely top class and another of my personal favorites, this non-vintage Champagne is rich crisp, clean and stylish. The wine is perfectly dry, well balanced and has remarkably long lasting bubbles. Score 90.

Laurent-Perrier: One of the best, with bold, assertive flavors of toasted almonds, a lively level of fresh acidity and a texture that is both firm and rich. A kosher version is available that is equally good. Score 90.

Perrier-Jouet, Brut: With its flowery, fragrant elegance and the feel of unripe cherries, this is a fresh, crisp, delicate champagne - definitely first class. Also keep an eye out for the "Belle Epoque" vintage champagne from this house (1988 score 92). Sold in bottles that have an embossed Art Nouveau flower motif, the wine is even worth the high prices asked for it. Score 89+.

Mumm, Brut Rose, Cordon Rose: If pink champagne is your passion, this is one of the most charming, dryest and consistently satisfying Champagnes you will find anywhere. Score 88.

Piper Heidsick: Another of my own favorites, this fresh, very dry wine manages to find just the right balance between fruitiness and acidity to make it complex and refined. Also available in a kosher version which is every bit as good as the non-kosher. Score 87+.

Lanson: Although I would not categorize this Champagne as great, it is light, flowery and easy to drink. Score 86.

Charles Heidsick: Although I find this Champagne just a bit on the sweet side, it's fresh and fruity medium body give it an appreciative audience. Unlike many Champagnes that rely heavily on Chardonnay grapes, Charles Heidsick contains 85% of black Pinot Noir grapes and only 15% of Chardonnay, thus making it somewhat lighter and softer on the palate. Score 86.

Mumm, Cordon Rouge: Even though this Champagne has been a consistent world wide best seller, it is not one of my favorites. On the positive side, the wine is delicate and creamy. On the negative side, I find it too light and, especially in the last decade, lacking in character. Score 84.

Moet & Chandon, Extra Dry, White Star: The problem with this wine is that it varies in quality. At its best it can be very good even though it is not as dry as I like. When it is not at its best, the wine can be disappointing. Score 81.

Pommery & Greno: One of the dryest of all Champagnes, this wine is enchanting partly because it is yeasty rather than fruity. Even though I am very fond of their 1988 vintage "Cuvee Louise Pommery" (score 92), I find the non-vintage wine good but a bit too bland. Score for the n.v. wine, 80.

Sparkling Wines - Not From Champagne

Personally, I don't give a damn what they say in California and remain convinced that the only wines that should be called Champagne come from the physical area of Champagne!!! That is not to say that other sparkling wines are not good. In fact, some are excellent. Even though they may be made by the traditional Champagnoise method, however, they are not entitled to be called Champagne.

Gloria Ferrer, Brut: Owned by Freizenet in Spain, this Sonoma Valley winery in California produces only sparkling wines. Unlike the Freixenet wines (see below) which are often uninspired and too sweet, the California wines can be excellent, especally when they are drunk very young. This particular wine is a delight. Made in the Champagne fashion from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes the wine is full bodied, fruity and has a nice toasty finish. Score 86.

Freixenet Cordon Negro: This sparkling white wine comes from the Penedes area of Spain and like all of the wines from that region that are called "Brut" it has a bit of sweetness that some may find objectionable. Despite this failing, this is a pleasant, reasonably priced wine. Score 80.

Gloria Ferrer, Blanc de Noir: Made from 95% Pinot Noir and 8% Chardonnay grapes, this sparkling wine was kept in contact with the skins of the grapes just long enough to give it a bare hint of pink in its color. A nice wine, but not as dry or sophisticated as one might hope for. Score 78.

Marie-France Blanc de Blancs, Brut: Unsophisticated, with so much sweetness that it should not be referred to as "brut", and with bubbles that vanish rather rapidly, this is a wine best reserved for picnics, football games and breaking over the bow of new boats when they go to sea for the first time. Score 62.

When to Drink Champagne

Although gourmets and wine lovers love to argue about when it is most appropriate to drink Champagne, I concur with my English colleague Clive Coates who wrote that "Champagne is the supreme wine to drink alone or in company, at any time of the day or night, with or without food".

Although Champagne and other naturally sparkling are traditionally served as aperitifs or at the end of the meal many, including this writer, feel that sparkling white wines described as Brut or Extra Dry can go with any meal. The truth is that French Champagnes many other sparkling wines go marvelously withevery dish except those served with vinaigrette sauce. Pink sparkling wines go especially well with goose liver dishes, seafood and desserts and sparkling wines referred to as demi-sec are ideal for serving with desserts and cakes.

Whenever you serve it, Champagne should always be served at 7 -10 degrees Celsius and to gain the maximum pleasure it should be served in tall, thin, clear tulip shaped or flute glasses with the rim bent slightly inwards. In addition to saving the bubbles, such glasses also allow you to enjoy the fine aromas of fine Champagne. Glasses should never be filled more than half way an ideally glasses will be chilled before being filled.. Restaurants and hotels that serve Champagne in low, wide, saucer-shaped glasses should be reprimanded, because such glasses do a great disservice to the wine by allowing the bubbles to disperse far too rapidly.

Opening Champagne Bottles
A Friendly Word of Advice

Champagne and other sparkling wines require special handling because their corks are under a great deal of pressure. If not treated with care and respect, these corks can become dangerous missiles propelled through the air with surprising force. Although the popping of Champagne corks creates a festive atmosphere, it is the wrong way to open a sparkling wine because in addition to being dangerous, it harms the wine. One of the reasons that Champagne is special is the bubbles, and the popping of the cork reduces these.

To avoid this, first, peel off the foil surrounding the cork and neck of the bottle. While applying pressure to hold the cork in, carefully loosen the metal straps holding the cork. After the straps are removed, continue to press down on the cork and gently twist the bottle, not the cork. When you hear the gas begin to escape around the edges of the cork, do not let the cork escape your grip. The gentle hissing sound will be followed by a barely audible pop, this indicating that you have done the job properly. In this way the wine will not form a foam that will suddenly gush out of the bottle and the bubbles will have been preserved.

© Daniel Rogov