The Five Very Best

La Ferme Saint Hubert: 21 rue Vignon, Paris 8; Barthelemy: 51 de Grenelle, Paris 7; and Cantin: 12 rue de Champ de Mars, Paris 7. Whether you're in the market for a 45 kilogram wheel of Parmesan cheese, a 200 gram brie from Savoie or a few slices of Reblochon, whtever you want in French, Swiss and Italian cheeses, your desires will be satisfied at any of these fine shops.

Paxton and Whitfield: 93 Jermyn Street, London SW1. This marvelous establishment is said to have the widest selection of cheeses of any shop in Europe. In addition to 40 to 50 British cheeses, there are over 300 other European cheeses on hand at any time. My own favorites are a French Brie from the town of Meaux, a sheeps' milk cheese from the Pyrenees Mountains called Prince de Laverolle, and an English goats' milk cheese called Vulscombe.

Peck's "Casa del Formaggio: Via Speronari 3, Milano. The four stores that make up this stablishment may well be the very best delicatessen in the world. At the shop where cheeses are the specialty you will find huge wheels of Gorgonzola, aged Dolcelatte, miraculously fresh buffalo-milk Mozzarella, creamy smooth Ricotta, and Marscarpone so exquisite it will send you into fits of ecstacy.

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The Rosslyn Delicatessen: 56 Rosslyn Hill, London NW3. Those looking for the very best of English cheeses will not be disappointed here. In addition to the white and red Cheshire cheese, try also the Shropshire blue, and the Stilton. Do not miss a chance to taste the Lanark Blue, one of the finest blue cheeses in the world.

Murray's Cheese Store, 42 Cornelia Street, New York: America produces some excellent cheeses, and nearly all of them can be found in this small but well-stocked store. Try especially the aged New York State Cheddar cheese, the Wisconsin Liptauer cheese, and the famous smoked Vicksburg cheese from Virginia. The store also has an excellent selection of French, Italian, Dutch, and English cheeses.

Ten More Almost as Good

Androuet: 41 Rue d'Amsterdam, Paris 8. Also at Terminals C and D at Charles de Gaulle Airport.

Alleosse: 13 rue Poncelet, Paris 17.

Alain Dubois: 79 rue de Courcelles, Paris 17.

La Ferme Saint Aubin: 76 rue Saint-Louis en l'Ile, Paris 4.

Barthelemy: 51 rue de Grenelle, Paris 7.

Cantin: 12 rue de Champ de Mars, Paris 7.

Fromagerie Hamon: 81 rue de Seinem, Paris 6

Fromagerie de Montmartre: Rue de Poteau 9, Paris 18.

Pierre Lucien et Fils: Boulevard Richard-Lenoir (only during the days of the open-air market, Thursday and Sunday)

Steigenberger: on 27 Grosse Bockheimer Strasse, Frankfurt.

© Daniel Rogov