Red Wines Scoring 86 - 80

Golan Heights Winery, Mount Hermon Adom, 2000: After a decade of making this wine with a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the winemaker has decided to be a bit playful and add 5% of Sangiovese grapes. Somewhat fuller in body than in the past and with a more chewy texture, the wine maintains a deep royal purple color and offers appealing flavors and aromas of currants, black cherries, and herbs. Moderately tannic and with good balancing acids, the wine is fully ready to drink now. NIS 35. Score 86. (Israel)

HaGafen, Pinot Noir, Napa Valley, 1999: Medium bodied, with a somewhat pale cherry-red color, but with plenty of fruits and good balancing acids and tannins. Drink now and enjoy. $21.00. Score 86. (USA - California)

Chateau Yon-Figeac, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, 1998: As one has come to expect from this Bordeaux estate, this medium-bodied wine has smooth tannins and just enough fruits to keep your interest. Look for blackberries, currants and ripe plums all with the barest overlay of chocolate that linger nicely on the palate. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. $37.50. Score 86. (France - Bordeaux)

Chateau Yon-Figeac, St-Emilion, Bordeaux, 1997: Medium bodied and with good balance between fruits and tannins, the aromas of black olives are set off nicely by aromas and flavors of berries, currants and a hint of chocolate. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. $39.00. Score 86. (France - Bordeaux)

Fortant de France, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pays d'Oc, 1998: With an attractive ruby red color and smooth tannins that make it fully ready to drink now, this medium bodied wine has plenty of plums, currants and herbs as well as a gentle hint of the oak casks in which it was aged in its aromas and flavors. Easy and comfortable drinking. $7.00. Score 85+. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Baron Edmond de Rothschild, Haut Medoc, 1998 and 1997: Located in Haut Medoc (and please, please, do not confuse this wine with those of Chateaux Mouton and Lafite Rothschild), this is an estate that should be capable of producing excellent wines. Alas, they are often very disappointing. The 1989 wine was nothing short of a catastrophe and by five years of age was leaning to brown rather than red in color and was dull and flat in both aroma and flavor. The '93 was somewhat of an improvement, but was so lacking in character that it was difficult to identify its primary grape as Cabernet Sauvignon. The '98 and '97 are both, thankfully, considerably better. Almost twins despite vastly different vintage years, both wines have appealing aromas and flavors of black currants, blue plums and just enough tannins and body come together to make this a good but not exceptional wine. $25.00. Score 85. (France - Bordeaux)

Baron Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 1998: Made from grapes from Paso Robles and the Napa and Alexander Valleys, this wine has a deep royal purple color, plenty of currant and wild berry flavors and aromas and the kinds of soft tannins that make it ready for easy drinking now or in the next few years. Not overly complex but very pleasant. $12.00 Score 85. (USA - California)

Carmel's Choice, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile, Central Valley, 2000: Perhaps the best wine of the kosher Chilean collection, this dark purple wine has good depth and flavors and just enough aromas and flavors of currants, black cherries and plums to give it charm. Not complex but a good match to grilled and fried meats. NIS 30. Score 85. (Chile)

Carmel Mizrachi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Private Collection, No. 1, Ramat Arad, 1998: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes harvested at Ramat Arad and Ya'ar Atir, this medium to full bodied wine spent 12 months in French oak casks. Although flavors of vanilla and fresh herbs make themselves nicely felt, what is lacking is a core of ripe fruits that might have added to its charm. NIS 92. $23.00. Score 85. (Israel)

Carmel Mizrachi, Merlot, Private Collection, No. 1, Ramat Arad, 1998: More tannic and with more of a sharpness than one usually expects from a wine made entirely from Merlot grapes. Despite or perhaps because of that, a pleasant medium bodied wine with herb and wild berry flavors and appealing mineral accents. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 75. $20.00. Score 85. (Israel)

Carmel Mizrachi, Cabernet-Merlot, Private Collection, 1999: Earthy, lean and tight, with currant and cherry notes that struggle, not fully successfully, to break through. Plenty of oak on the finish. NIS 48. Score 85. (Israel)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Private Collection 1999: Ripe and with good firm tannins and a solid core of black cherry and cedary oak flavors. Drinkable now. NIS 70. $22.00. Score 85. (Israel)

Fortant de France, Merlot, Pays d'Oc, 1998: An uncomplicated but tempting wine that is simultaneously soft and smooth and has nice overlays of herbs and berries in its aromas and flavors. If there has ever been a wine that calls to mind the rich soil and sunny climate of the Pays d'Oc, this is it. $7.00. Score 85. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Fortant de France, Grenache, 1998: Light to medium bodied, round and with a nice touch of spiciness, this wine may lack sophistication but is delicious nevertheless, with excellent balance between fruits and tannins. $7.00. Score 85. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Chateau La Gaffeliere, St. Emilion, 1990: If there is anything at all that categorizes the wines of this Chateaux it is their inconsistency - the 1989 wine was deep and delicious, earning a score of 89 and the 1990 wine was lean and stingy on the palate and earned only 80. Although from an excellent vintage year, the 1990 wine lacks body and depth. To its advantage, the 1990 wine has plenty of black currants, vanilla and even hints of chocolate in its aromas and flavors. Unfortunately, the wine is somewhat one-dimensional lacks the kind of depth that would have made it memorable. Fading already, so finish off whatever bottles you may still have on hand. $52.00. Score 85. (France - Bordeaux)

Golan Heights Winery, Golan Village, Adom, 2000: As frisky as a puppy, this cherry red wine is as fruity, light and refreshing as one could want for a super-young, easy to drink red wine. NIS 29. Score 85. (Israel)

Herzog Selection, Shiraz, Teal Lake, South Eastern Australia, 1999: Light to medium-bodied, with smooth tannins and plenty of spice and anise flavors overlaying good fresh fruits. Needs about 15 minutes to open in the glass. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. $12.50. Score 85. (Australia)

Tishbi, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: A successful blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot that spent 3 months in oak barrels, this bright, light young wine has a basically cherry and spice character. Well balanced and easy on the palate, the wine is meant for drinking in its youth. NIS 32. Score 85. (Israel)

Tishbi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tishbi Estate, 1999: Soft, supple and smooth, with herb, currant, cedar and fruit flavors that come together nicely. Soft tannins predominate and make the wine approachable now or in the next year or two. NIS 60. Score 85. (Israel)

Red Wines Scoring 80 - 84

Arche d'Alliance, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1997: Categorized as Bordeaux Superier, this medium bodied wine has an appealing almost cherry red color, and somewhat muted aromas of currants, plums and wild berries. Smooth tannins make the wine drinkable now. Price NA. Score 84. (France - Bordeaux)

Alfasi, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 1999: Made by Carta Vieja, a large winery in Chile's Maule Valley, this attractive and fruity red is perhaps best described as "friendly". NIS 30. $7.00. Score 84. (Chile)

Bartenura, Chianti, 1997: Medium bodied, moderately tannic and with plenty of black cherry, wild berry and grassy flavors and aromas, and with a pleasingly light hint of cedar wood in its bouquet, this is a nice little wine indeed. $9.50. Score 84. (Italy - Tuscany)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve 1997: A bit light and cooked in flavor, but finishing with a nice spicy touch. Lacking intensity but easy to drink. NIS 69. Score 84. (Israel)

Binyamina, Merlot, Special Reserve, 1997: A wine that showed great promise when it was young, but the blueberry, currant, black peppers and toast flavors that I felt earlier are already fading. Still pleasant but best to drink now before the wine starts to go downhill. NIS 69. Score 84. (Israel)

Carmel Mizrachi, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Ramat Arad, No 1, 1998: Dark in color and with firm tannins but light in flavor with only a few plum and berry notes barely managing to make themselves felt. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 51. Score 84. (Israel)

Pierre Chainet, Bourgueil, 1997: From the area between Tours and Angers in France's Loire Valley, this pleasant little wine, based on Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes offers medium body, plenty of silky tannins and a bouquet rich with black currants and raspberries. Drink now or in the next two to three years. NIS 40. $6.00;. Score 84. (France - Loire)

Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Canaan Series, 1999: Although this wine seems to have been intentionally made as neither sophisticated nor deep, it has an appealing red-purple color and just enough berries, cherries and currants in its flavors and aromas. Light to medium bodied and with moderate tannins, an easy and pleasant wine to drink. NIS 37. Score 84. (Israel)

Efrat, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1870 Series, 1998: Aged in 4 - 5 year old oak casks for 16 months and then blended with about 10% of Merlot to soften and round it out, the wine is pleasant enough, with ripe plum, currant and cherry flavors. Drink now. NIS 50. Score 84. (Israel)

Efrat, Merlot, Premier, 1999: Light, crisp and firm, with some spice, currant and earthy notes overlying somewhat stingy fruit aromas and flavors. Lacking complexity the wine is fully ready for drinking now. NIS 50. Score 84. (Israel)

Chateau la France, Medoc, Cru Bourgeois, 1997: A good example of how wines can vary in quality from year to year. The 1996 version of this wine was a bit too watery and somewhat clumsy and earned a score of only 72. The '97 is a vast improvement, the wine having a medium body, aromas of black currants and prunes and just the right balance between fruit and tannins. An option for everyday drinking. NIS 40. $7.00. Score 84. (France - Bordeaux)

Segal, Ben Ami Red, 1999: A medium bodied Cabernet with a smoky, toasty character that comes together with plummy, almost prune-like flavors. Not complex but enjoyable. Drink now. NIS 35. Score 84. (Israel)

Wente-Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1996: Made from grapes picked and fermented on the central coast of California and then imported in bulk for aging in oak barrels here, this light to medium bodied wine, shows nice plum, cherry and herbal notes. Drink now. NIS 55. Score 84. (USA - California)

Wente-Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserved, 1996: Medium bodied, nicely textured and with wild berry and licorice flavors, faulted only by a vegetal quality that develops as the wine sits on the palate. Drink now. NIS 70. Score 84. (USA - California)

Alfasi, Merlot Reserve, 1999: Simple but pleasant, this unoaked wine has a medium body and smooth tannins. Fruity, refreshing and easy to drink. NIS 30. $7.00. Score 83. (Chile)

Barkan, Superieur, 1996: Aged in new oak casks for 18 months, this "flagship wine" is said to have been made from the very best Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in Barkan's extensive vineyards. Unfortunately, this medium bodied and moderately tannic wine is a bit too simple and earthy and has slightly sour flavors that tend to hide the cherry, berry and plum flavors that try but never fully succeed in bursting forth. Far better than the 1995 wine that carried this name, but hardly great. Some will feel that the wine is prestigious because it was released in a limited edition of about 3,000 magnum sized bottles. Others may feel that the wine is simply pretentious. NIS 260 for magnum bottles. $65.00. Already somewhat beyond its peak so drink now. Score 83. (Israel)

Baron Herzog, Zinfandel, 1998: Without too many complexities but smooth and solid, this attractive little Zinfandel has plenty of plum, toast and berry flavors and an enchanting hint of violets in its aromas. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 65. $9.50. Score 83. (USA - California)

Bartenura, Barbera d'Asti, 1999: As light in color as it is in body, but with plenty of fruits and balancing acids this is a simple but pleasant little wine, probably best served as well chilled as you would a white or rose. Score 83. (Italy- Piedmont)

Carmel Mizrachi, Hiluleem Red, 2000: One of Israel's answers to French Beaujolais Nouveau this wine can offer a good deal of simple pleasure. Made from a combination of Carignan, Petite Syrah and Argaman grapes (and believe me, you can't get much simpler than that), the wine reflects its youth in its deep red color and a remarkable level of fruitiness in its flavors and aromas. Smooth and light, the red will be at its best within 6 months of its release. NIS 19. Score 82. (Israel)

Chateau Giscours, Margaux, Bordeaux, 1997: Even though it comes from a usually reliable and sometimes even excellent producer, this wine disappoints in the extreme, much too light, without any complexity and at best described as being easy to drink. Drink now. $30.00. Score 83. (France - Bordeaux)

Abarbanel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays d'Oc, 1998: A pleasant little country style wine, with plenty of cherry, berry and ripe plum flavors and overtones and a pleasing hint of herbaceousness. Lacking depth but an easy wine to drink. $13.00
Score 82. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Abarbanel, Merlot, Vin de Pays d'Oc, 1998: Light to medium-bodied, with more herbal than fruit flavors but a pleasant enough little wine, fully ready to drink now. $11.00. Score 82. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Bartenura, Valpolicella, 2000: From the slopes of the Alto Adige region (on the Adige river between Verona and Grola), this appealing little red wine has medium body, just enough tannins and acids to make it interesting and flavors and aromas that call to mind blackberries, plums and black cherries. $8.00. Score 82. (Italy - Alto Adige)

Carmel Mizrachi, Merlot, Private Collection, 1998: Well proportioned but without excitement, for even after ten months in new French oak casks this wine has an overly earthy accent to its currant, sage and spice flavors. Drink young. NIS 59. $21.00. Score 82. (Israel)

Carmel Mizrachi, Merlot, Zichron Ya'akov , 1999: Beyond its attractive ruby color, this wine is as stingy in aroma and fruitiness as it is in charm. A wine without faults but that simply makes it an wine without interest. NIS 37. Score 82. (Israel)

Carmel's Choice, Syrah, Pays' d'Oc, 1999: Rich spice, vanilla an raspberry aromas are accompanied by a somewhat awkward mixture of oak, heavy tannins, mint and black currant flavors. Drink now. NIS 30. Score 82. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Cellier des Dauphins, Coteaux du Tricastin, 1998: From France's Rhone Valley, this light, dry red is best described as simple, just fruity enough and pleasant. $8.50; NIS 40. Score 82. (France - Rhone)

Delagrave, Bordeaux, 1997: Straightforward, with fruity and earthy flavors and moderate tannins. Acceptable if not at all complex. Drink young. Score 82. (France - Bordeaux)

Domingo Rey, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: So international in style that you might think you were drinking a wine from California, from France's Pays d'Oc, or from Australia, this fruity, medium bodied wine makes for easy drinking, especially with dishes based on veal or lamb. Score 82. (Chile)

Domingo Rey, Merlot, 1999: Light to medium bodied, low in tannins and with aromas of currants, berries and plums, this is a smooth and easy to drink although not at all sophisticated wine. Score 82. (Chile)

Chateau La Reze, 1996: From the Minervois sub-region of Languedoc in France, this somewhat coarse but appealing and fruity country style wine will be at its best with sandwiches and pizzas. $8.00. Score 82. (France - Languedoc)

San Pedro, Gato Negro, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000: Medium bodied, with minimal tannins and plenty of fruits in its flavors and aromas, but with a somewhat too-bitter finish, the kosher version of this wine is best described as simple but pleasant. Interestingly, the kosher wine is a bit more alcoholic and somewhat richer in flavor than the non-kosher version. $6.00; NIS 30. Score 82. (Chile)

San Pedro, Gato Negro, Merlot, 2000: Light to medium bodied, and with a light but attractive purple color, this smooth, not too complex wine is a nice entry level wine for those just switching to dry reds. The flavors and aromas of the kosher and non-kosher version are very similar, those of the non-kosher version being perhaps just a bit fuller. $6.00; NIS 30. Score 82. (Chile)

Segal, Merlot, Ben Ami, 1999: Cherry red in color, this medium bodied wine has licorice and dill aromas that turn a bit weedy on the palate. Score 82. (Israel)

Segal, Batzir Adom, 1998: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that never quite fits together. Herbs, pepper and modest currant and berry notes are all there, but somehow the wine finishes rather flat on the palate. Score 82. (Israel)

Weinstock, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, 1997: Light and simple with moderate tannins and plenty of fruits, this is an easy-drinking, not at all complex wine, ready to drink now or in the very near future. $11.50. Score 82. (USA - California)

Bartenura, Chianti, 1998: Medium bodied, with a few floral, berry and cherry aromas but just a bit too astringent and somewhat overly herbal. $7.00. Score 81. (Italy - Tuscany)

Carmel's Choice, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pays d'Oc, 1999: Light in style and fairly simple, with cherry, plum and herbal aromas and flavors that are attractive but fail to linger. Pleasant enough but not special. NIS 30. Score 81. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Carmel's Choice, Cabernet-Syrah, Pays d'Oc, 1999: Despite its label, this wine has a remarkable resemblance to a blend of Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. Whatever, this bright, spicy and fruity wine is pleasant enough but distinctly out of character. NIS 30. Score 81. (France - Pays d'Oc)

J.P. Chenet, Cabernet-Syrah, 1997: Light in body and tannins, but with pleasant low-keyed aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, prunes and herbs this acceptable but not exciting wine will have its greatest appeal to those just beginning to drink wines. Score 81. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Arche d'Alliance, Merlot, Bordeaux Superieur Controlee, 1997: A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this light to medium bodied wine a moderate level of tannins but is lacking in fruit flavors that might have added a sense of charm. $12.00 Score 80. (France - Bordeaux)

Efrat, Cabernet-Merlot, Premium, 1997: Containing about 70% of Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, this pleasant little red wine has aromas of berries, currants and a bit of vanilla that remain too muted and flavors that fail to distinguish themselves. Medium bodied and at its best when served with food but failing to excite. Drink now. Score 80. (Israel)

Red Wines Scoring 70 - 79

Chateau Yon-Figeac, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, 1995: Never complex, but in its youth medium bodied and with traditional Bordeaux aromas and flavors and pleasant to drink. Alas, now fading quickly. If you have any on hand, drink it now.
$35. Score 79. (France - Bordeaux)

Citra, Rosso, Terre di Chieti: A simple but pleasant dry red made. From the mountainous Abruzzi region, this is a light and simple but fruity and pleasant dry red wine. Score 78. (Italy - Abruzzi)

Efrat, Merlot, 1870 Series, 1998: Even though this wine spent one year in new French oak casks, it remains simple, not quite ripe and not well balanced enough to give the promise of ripening in the future. Moderately tart berry and leathery flavors fail to come together for interesting drinking. Score 79. (Israel)

Weinstock, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, 1998: There are currants and vanilla flavors and aromas here but these are outweighed by a rather barnyard like aromas and flavors and a light sense of bitterness that lingers at the end. $12.00.
Score 78. (USA - California)

Efrat, Cabernet-Petit Sirah, Premium, 1998: Soft, simple and vaguely fruity, this is a wine that finishes with coarse tannins and too many earthy flavors. NIS 42. $10.50. Score 77. (Israel)

Bartenura, Merlot del Veneto, 1998: A more or less international style Merlot, a bit watery and lacking body and thus not of interest to sophisticated drinkers. On the more positive side, a good entry level wine for those just moving up to dry reds. $7.50. Score 76. (Italy - Veneto)

Binyamina, Merlot, 1999: Soft, almost sweet, with ripe cherry, spice and tea flavors and finishing with a far too coarse sensation in the throat. NIS 31. Score 75. (Israel)

J.P. Chenet, Merlot, Pays d'Oc, 1999: The '98 wine from this winery was disappointing in the extreme but this one, while far from greatness, is light, fruity and smooth and its moderate tannins make it drinkable now or in the near future. $7.00; NIS 40. Score 75. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Chateau Maine Gazin, Premieres Cotes de Blaye, 1997: A country style wine, medium-bodied and somewhat harsh on the palate but with plenty of fruit and an overlay of tar. Already growing weary in the bottle so drink now. $17.50. Score 76. (France - Bordeaux)

Chateau La Tonelle, Crus Bourgeois, Haut Medoc, 1995: Surprisingly light in tannins and with cherry, raspberry and a few minty notes, this super-simple wine is best left to those just starting to switch from semi-dry whites to light reds. $20.00. Score 75.

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: Aged in American and French oak for 6 months but without very much feeling of vanilla or oak, this herbal and weedy wine has plenty of tannins but never comes forth with its flavors. NIS 31. Score 74. (Israel)

Pierre Chainet, Bourgueil, 1995: The same wine as above but from the '95 harvest. Still pleasant but showing distinct signs of aging and best for drinking in the very near future. $7.00; NIS 39. Score 74. (France)

Domaine de Boissan, Vin de Pays du Valcluse, 1997: Distinctly country-style in that it is not quite as dry as one might hope for and just a bit overly coarse. The wine is already showing signs of premature aging. Drink now if at all. $8.00; NIS 40. Score 72. (France - Pays du Valcluse)

Abarbanel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays d'Oc, 1999: With an odd resemblance to raspberry flavored cough syrup, this is a wine that seems to have gone wrong somewhere along the way. (Tasted twice with consistent notes). $12.00 Score 70.
(France - Pays d'Oc)

Tour-Fourthon, Haut-Medoc Controlee, 1997: Aged in oak casks for 21 months and with the expected Bordeaux grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) but with musky, bitter overtones in its aromas and far too much of the feel of the alcohol on the palate, this is a wine that has somehow failed. Score 70. (France - Bordeaux)

Red Wines Scoring Less Than 70

J.P. Chenet, Merlot-Cabernet, non-vintage: This wine is a blend of 30% Merlot that was aged in oak, 30% of unoaked Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. I forgive this winemaker for having chosen a Cognac style bottle for the wine. With a friendly smile, I even forgive him for dusting the bottle with flecks of paint to give the illusion that the wine has aged in a dusty cellar. What is more difficult to forgive is that the wine itself is so watery and devoid of charm that I can think of no reason whatever to drink it. Score 68. (France - Bordeaux)

Sablons, Chinon, 1997: Made primarily from Cabernet Franc grapes in France's Loire Valley, Chinon at its best can be a supple wine, with mouthwatering fruits. Alas, this wine (as in previous years) is far from Chinon at its best. So light that it feels almost watery and lacking richness of fruits in either its flavors or aromas, the wine is difficult to recommend. $8.00; NIS 40. Score 68. (France - Loire)

Dry White Wines Scoring 80 - 86

Baron Herzog, Chenin Blanc, Clarksberg, 1999: With lots of tropical fruit and citrus flavors and aromas this is a lively and lovely white. Look for a hint of sweet herbs as the wine lingers on the palate. Meant for drinking young. $7.50. Score 86. (USA - California)

Baron Herzog, Sauvignon Blanc, California, 1999: A well crafted California Sauvignon Blanc, with just enough grassiness, citrus and herbal flavors and an appealing hint of what might be anise or eucalyptus at the end. $10.00. Score 86. (USA - California)

Carmel Mizrachi, Sauvignon Blanc, Private Collection, 2000: Broadly aromatic and with appealing citrus, pear and spicy flavors. Smooth, supple and with flavors that linger nicely. NIS 39. $20.00 Score 86. (Israel)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Golan 1999: This is the first time the winery has released a Chardonnay in this series. Unoaked, light to medium bodied and straightforward, the wine is light and tangy, has a nice spicy mineral character to its citrus and apple flavors. A charming wine, and great fun to drink. NIS 31. $12.00. Score 86. (Israel)

Golan Heights Winery, Sauvignon Blanc, Yarden, 1998: Containing 85% of Sauvignon Blanc and 15% of Semillion grapes, this crisp, fragrant and refreshing wine has a core of green apple, melon and floral flavors and a few mineral and spice overtones. Delicious and refreshing, the wine can be drunk now or in the next two years. $11.00. Score 86. (Israel)

Herzog, Chardonnay, Special Reserve 1999: Absolutely loaded with wood, as if the winemaker forgot for a moment that Californians have decided that wood is no longer in. I don't object to oak, but when it masks and almost hides the underlying fruits, I cannot help but smile and think that only Californians over 50 years old will enjoy it. Despite that, an interesting wine.
Price NA. Score 86.

Barkan, Chardonnay, Reserve, 1999: Bright and lively, but a bit on the simple side, with floral notes and ripe pear and apple flavors. Light on the palate and pleasant to drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 35Score 85+. (Israel)

Carmel's Choice, Chardonnay, Australia, 1999: Made for Carmel by the Heathcoate winery in Victoria , this supple and appealing unoaked wine is soft and just spicy enough and has lots of pineapple flavors and aromas. Straightforward and attractive, the wine is ready for drinking now or in the next year or so. NIS 69. $15.00. Score 85. (Israel)

Carmel Mizrachi, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc, Private Collection, 2000: Tight, tart and with lots of lemon and grapefruit aromas, but rounding out a bit on the finish with light buttery notes. Lively and appealing. NIS 33. Score 85. (Israel)

Fortant de France, Chardonnay, 1999: Well made, this wine will appeal especially to those who like their Chardonnay dry and with peaches, pineapple, apples and vanilla. $7.00. Score 85. (Israel)

Tishbi, Sauvignon Blanc, 1999: Smooth and polished, with attractive melon, citrus and earthy flavors that linger nicely, this crisp and refreshing wine will make for good summertime drinking. NIS 32. Score 85. (Israel)

Tishbi, Chardonnay, Tisbhi Estate, 1999: Very lightly oaked, this well crafted wine has apple, pear and hazelnut aromas and flavors and just enough flinty-mineral feeling to hint of the wines of Chablis. Charming and meant for young drinking. NIS 38. Score 85. (Israel)

Baron Herzog, Chardonnay, California, 1998: The color of golden straw, this lively and nicely oaked Chardonnay has a very appealing combination of aromas and flavors that include lemons, apples, pears, toast, butterscotch and cloves. Drink now. Score 84. (USA - California)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Special Reserve 1999: With hints of green apples, citrus fruits and pears, this fresh and lightly spicy wine has a sharp, clean finish. Pleasant but lacking the harmony or depth that would earn it a higher score. NIS 34. Score 84. (Israel)

Carmel Mizrachi, Chardonnay, Private Collection, 1999: Light, refreshing, with hints of lemon and mandarin oranges. Simple but pleasant and meant for early drinking. NIS 47. $12.00. Score 84. (Israel)

Fortant de France, Grenache Blanc-Chardonnay, Pays d'Oc, 1999: Light and simple, without pretext, but pleasant enough, with just enough acidity and fruits to give it charm. Easy to drink. Mostly a wine for beginners. $7.00. Score 84. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Gamla, 1999: Without not enough feeling of the oak in which it was aged, and with neither depth nor balance, this wine is so fruity that it seems almost sweet on the palate. Far from the most successful Chardonnay released in this series over the years. NIS 41. $11.00. Score 84. (Israel)

Golan Heights Winery, Har Hermon Levan, 2000: A dry white wine, not at all complex but lively and with enough pineapple, melon and kiwi fruit in its aromas and flavors to make for pleasant drinking. NIS 35. Score 84. (Israel)

Segal Ben Ami White, 1999: Another distinct step up for Segal. Crisp and refreshing, with grapefruit, green apple and a hint of nectarines, this simple but crisply refreshing and tasty wine is ready to drink now. Score 84. (Israel)

Citra, Trebiano d'Abruzzo: Made according to New World standards, this dry white wine is fresh and crisply refreshing. Without pretensions but with great charm, a wine worth trying and an especially good match to grilled or fried fish and to Italian dishes such as veal scallopini. Score 84. (Italy - Abruzzi)

Efrat, Sauvignon Blanc, 1870 Series, 1999: Soft and fruity, with strong hints of vanilla in its aromas and flavors, this is a wine probably best described as pleasant but not special. Score 84. (Israel)

Segal, Ben Ami, Sauvignon Blanc, 1999: Crisp and refreshing, with grapefruit, green apple and a hint of nectarines, this is a simple but crisply refreshing and tasty wine. Score 84. (Israel)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, 2000: Without great complexity but clean, dry and with plenty of lemon, lime and orange flavors, this appealing if not somewhat straightforward wine will appeal to those who are moving from semi-dry to dry wines. NIS 21. Score 84. (Israel)

Barkan, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve 2000: Light in color and body but fruity and appealing, with pear and a few herbal flavors that linger comfortably. NIS 30. Score 83. (Israel)

Carmel Mizrachi, Hiluleem White, 2000: Made from a blend of French Colombard, Emerald Riesling and Chenin Blanc grapes, which may be an even more simple combination than that used in the red Hiluleem (see above review), this light little wine will make you think of heuriger, the young, fruity ines of Austria and will go very nicely with fried or grilled fish, chicken salad sandwiches, and schnitzels. NIS 19. Score 83. (Israel)

Efrat, Sauvignon-Semillon Premium, 1999: Uncomplicated but crisp and appealing. With flavors and aromas of peaches, apricots and cooked apples and just enough acidity to make it lively, the wine is a good match to grilled or fried fish dishes or warm or cold chicken salad. Drink young. Score 83. (Israel)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Special Reserve, 1999: A pleasant, straightforward wine, with lime and orange flavors and flowery aromas, and somewhat sweet flavors that linger at the finish, but without the grassiness or depth that typifies more exciting wines from this varietal. NIS 28. Score 82. (Israel)

Tishbi, Sauvignon Blanc, Tishbi Estate, 1999: Crisp and dry but a bit too austere with only modest floral and apple flavors that fade too quickly in the glass. NIS 34. Score 82. (Israel)

Segal, Sauvignon- Chardonnay, Premier, 1999: Crisp and refreshing but a bit lean and simple in its apple and herbal flavors. Score 81. (Israel)

Bartenura, Soave: Made from a blend of Garganega and Trebbiano grapes, this Veronese wine is simple but appealing, with lots of fruits and just a hint of spices in its flavors and aromas. Don't look for sophistication here but do look for a quaffable little wine. $7.00. Score 80. (Italy)

Citra, Bianco Terre di Chieti: A simple but appealing dry white wine with plenty of peaches, pears and even a bit of pineapple in its aromas and flavors. A good match to fish dishes, especially grilled fish that is prepared with cheese. Score 80. (Italy - Veneto)

Herzog Selection, Chardonnay, Teal Lake, South Eastern Australia, 1999: Deep gold in color, with unripe fruit and eucalyptus flavors and aromas and an almost medicinal flavor that lingers on the palate. $12.00. Score 80.. (Australia)

Dry White Wines Scoring 70 - 79

Bartenura, Pinot Grigio, 2000: Simple and fruity, with plenty of acids to make it refreshing and just enough body to make it a good match to fried or grilled fish dishes. $9.50. Score 79. (Italy - Veneto)

Bartenura, Gavi di Gavi: Crisply dry and with lemon, pineapple and peach flavors and aromas, this pleasant little Piemonte wine can make a nice aperitif and will go as well with grilled, poached and fried fish as it will with light chicken or veal dishes. $7.50. Score 78. (Italy - Veneto)

Abarbanel, Chardonnay, Pays d'Oc, 1999: Faulted because it has not nearly enough of the traits that one expects from Chardonnay and far too many musty and musky aromas and flavors. $13.00. Score 70. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Semi-Dry Whites, Blush and Rose Wines All Scores

Golan Heights Winery, Johannisberg Riesling, 2000: Flowery and semi-dry but with enough natural acid to keep it lively and refreshing, this appealing white wine has aromas and flavors of white peaches, green apples and pomellos that make for pleasant drinking. NIS 48. Score 85. (Israel)

Barkan, Emerald Riesling, 2000: With a lively light golden color, just fruity and lively enough and not overly sweet, this is a pleasant but not overly sophisticated half-dry white. NIS 30. Score 84. (Israel)

Baron Herzog, White Zinfandel, California, 1998: White Zinfandel (or if one wants to be more accurate, blush Zinfandel) may be the most popular of all wines in the United States but nobody has ever accused it of being sophisticated or complicated. All of which is fine for those who like their wines light and so fruity (with lots of apple, strawberry, raspberry flavors and aromas) that it will remind them of cotton candy. Drink young. Score 84. (USA - California)

Dalton, Canaan, White, 2000: An unusual but successful blend between Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and White Riesling grapes, this fresh and fruity wine has just enough natural acids to make it refreshing and easy to drink. A good option for those who enjoy semi-dry wines. NIS 26. Score 84. (Israel)

Golan Heights Winery, Emerald Riesling, Golan, 2000: There has never been anything sophisticated about semi-dry wines made from Emerald Riesling grape but in its favor, this floral, medium bodied and only moderately sweet wine has lots of citrus and tropical fruits in its aromas and flavors. Young, fresh and with plenty of acids to balance it out. NIS 29. Score 84. (Israel)

Golan Heights Winery, Smadar, Golan, 2000: Based as it is every year largely on Sauvignon Blanc grapes, and with plenty of acid to make it refreshing. Without too many complexities but with plenty of citrus fruits, apricots and herbs in its flavors, this pleasant little wine will appeal mostly to those who like their whites semi-dry. NIS 29. Score 84. (Israel)

Dalton, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, 1999 Canaan Series 1999: The blend between the grapes of these two varietals is not uncommon, but precisely why Dalton chose to make this version semi-dry eludes me. With its fruits and potential crispness hidden by an excess dose of sweetness, the result is probably best categorized as an "entry-level" wine, that is to say, one that will be most appreciated by those just starting to drink wine. NIS 26. Score 82. (Israel)

Fortant de France, White Merlot, 1999: What the heck - California makes a blush wine called "white Zinfandel" so why not let the French do a blush Merlot? What can I say....if you like white Zinfandel , you will like this light pink, remarkably fruity wine. On the other hand, those who find white Zinfandel a waste of otherwise good grapes will probably wonder why anyone bothered to make this far too simple wine. $7.00. Score 82. (France - Pays d'Oc)

Binyamina, Emerald Riesling, Special Reserve, 1999: Light, not overly sweet and full of flowery and fruity aromas and flavors but without either depth or enough acidity to make it truly refreshing. A wine that will be popular with those who like their wines semi-dry and without too much sophistication. NIS 28. Score 81. (Israel)

Efrat, Emerald Riesling, 1870 Series, 1999: Light, not to bright but with a somewhat bitter aftertaste that detracts somewhat. Score 80. (Israel)

Segal, Emerald Riesling, Ben Ami, 1999: Appealing in its dark straw color but without much in the way of flavor, aroma, liveliness or charm. Score 80. (Israel)

Carmel Mizrachi, Emerald Riesling, Private Collection, 2000: Bright and light in color, but so loaded with fruits that one might think that one was sipping a sweetened fruit cocktail and not a wine. A wine for beginners. NIS 39. Score 78. (Israel)

Heights Winery, Gewurztraminer, Yarden, 2000: Hints of lychees, apricots, cinnamon and honey come together in a wine that has a nice level of spiciness, good acids to keep it lively and a moderate level of dryness that makes the wine appropriate equally appropriate as an aperitif, with goose-liver dishes or with fruit-based desserts. Nicely balanced and with good concentration. NIS 46. Score 86. (Israel)

Chateau Piada, Sauternes, 1996: Light in body but with appealing apricot, ripe peach and honey flavors but without the depth or balance one usually hopes for in sweet Sauternes wines. Not meant for long-term storage, so drink now. $40.00. Score 85. (France - Sauternes)

Binyamina, Muscat, 1999: Light to medium bodied, with light honey, peaches and apricots aromas and fresh fruits in its flavors, this pleasant little semi-dry wine will probably be most appreciated as an aperitif. NIS 21. Score 84. (Israel)

Binyamina, Muscat, 2000: With hints of honey, white peaches and apricots its aromas, this attractive little semi-dry wine has appealing melon and grapefruit flavors and just enough natural acidity to keep it fresh and lively. Drink young. NIS 21. Score 84. (Israel)

Dalton, Muscat, 1999: Made entirely from Muscat Alexandroni grapes, this dessert wine has a pleasing level of sweetness and enough honeyed and citrus aromas and flavors to make it an appropriate accompaniment to pies, souffles and other desserts based on fruits. NIS 33. Score 84. (Israel)

Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Scoring 86 or less

Tishbi Brut, 1994: When this winery released its first non-vintage sparkling wine nearly five years ago, no one outside of the winery would have guessed that there would be enough of this wine to later declare it good enough to be considered a "Vintage Wine". This version, which has small, relatively long-lasting bubbles is considerably less yeasty and more fruity than the earlier Champenoise that was released. More Californian than French in style, the wine is best categorized as pleasant but not overly sophisticated, ready for immediate drinking. NIS 80. Score 85. (Israel)

HaGafen, Brut Cuvee Sparling Wine, 1997: Heavy and somewhat on the clumsy side, with a too distinct feel of the oak and not enough of fruits and neither acids nor liveliness to make it really interesting. Not as good as other sprkling wines from this same winery. $22 Score 84.

Tishbi, Brut, n.v.: Baron Wineries, Tishbi Brut: This is not so much a new wine as it is the renamed Champenoise, a name that was dropped as Israel moves closer to European Community regulations. In its youth, like the first version, which was released five years ago, the wine had strong but attractive overtones of yeast as well as pleasant apple, pear and citrus flavors. To my sorrow, of late I have discovered that nearly half of the bottles of this wine that I have opened have been corked, that is to say, have an offensively moldy and stale smell and several others have been lifeless and without charm. At its best, the wine earns a score of 85. When corked it is undrinkable, and when lifeless simply not worth the effort. Unfortunately, there is no way to know which bottles will be good and which bad before buying and opening them. NIS 80. (Israel)

Carmel Mizrachi, Sparkling Chardonnay n.v. (also known as Blanc de Blanc): When they first introduced this wine in 1987, Carmel became the first Israel winery to produce a natural sparkling wine. During the first years the wine appeared it had a fresh, clean taste, long lasting bubbles and a charmingly fruity character. Somewhere along the way much of that charm seems to have been lost and the wine now tends to be too simple. NIS 69. $ 8.00. Score based on several recent tastings, 79. (Israel)

Tonnelli, Malvasia Spumante: Sweet, sparkling, red and low in alcohol, this not all sophisticated but pleasant Piedmont area wine is probably at its best when served as an aperitif in tall glasses together with ice cubes. Score 75. (Italy - Piedmont)

Carmel, The President's Wine, n.v.: A far too simple wine, lacking balance, charm or richness and, depending on the bottling either a bit too sour or somewhat too sweet. NIS 39. Score 74. (Israel)

Rashi, Moscato d'Asti: Not so much sparkling as it is frizzante (with a light fizz), this sweet white from Asti pleases because it is not too sweet and has attractive fruity and flowery aromas. Beyond that, not at all sophisticated or complex. $9.00. Score 74. (Italy - Piedmont)

© Daniel Rogov