Several people have inquired by email about "bitters". I can understand that because few terms in the world of cocktails and liqueurs are more confusing.

The reality, however is quite simple. Based on herbs, spices, roots and bark that are steeped in or distilled with spirits, bitters are technically a type of liqueur. Unlike most liqueurs, however, most bitters were originally concocted by pharmacists to be used as cures for all sorts of ailments. Some bitters, for example were drunk to reduce the pain of menstrual cramps, others to treat diarrhea and yet others to increase male potency. Even though all of their medical claims have been disproved, bitters have maintained their popularity and many, especially in Italy, continue to drink them as aperitifs. In the rest of the world, however, they are used primarily as flavoring agents in making cocktails.

The problem with most bitters is that when drunk by themselves they are often so bitter that they lose their appeal. A major exception to this rule is the Italian Compari which, especially when mixed together with soda and served with ice cubes makes a remarkably tempting aperitif. Others of the world's best known bitters include Angostura, Amer Picon, Byrrh, Fernet Branca and Radis. New to the many markets is the "Fernet" of Martini and Rossi which, like the already well known "Fernet Branca" is made with 30 different herbs (including Chinese rhubarb and ginger) that are steeped in a mixture of white wine and brandy and aged for about one year in oak casks. Many find that when drunk plain Fernet has a medicinal and not especially appealing flavor, but those who enjoy cocktails will find it ideal for making drinks such as the Champagne Cocktail, Americano, Negroni or Metropolitan.

Because there are so many different versions of bitters and because these come in a large variety of flavors, I suggest making your first purchases in small bottles, thus giving you a chance to experiment until you find the one best suited to your tastes.

© Daniel Rogov