When I first sampled the 1998 wines of Bordeaux the wines were still in barrels. Those early tastings led me to believe that with the exception several of the truly great chateaux, the 1998 vintage yield wines that would be good, even very good, but overall not too many wines with great excitement. As recent samplings of more than fifty of the wines from the vintage have demonstrated, I was right on the mark with regard to the wines of Margaux, St. Julien, Graves, Pauillac and St. Estephe. When it came to Pomerol and St. Emilion, however, I was somewhat off, for 1998 has given us some surprises in truly splendid wines from these two areas. As in every vintage year, some producers gave us wines that stood above and others that fell below the average. All in all, however, 1998 has turned into a more exciting year than I had originally thought.

As always, this set of tastings was conducted blind and with no reference to my earlier notes. Later, when writing up my reviews, I checked earlier notes of wines previously tasted from the barrels or when first released. Only if my score varied by more than 2 points do I refer to those earlier notes here.

Pomerol

Chateau Petrus, Pomerol, 1998: Splendiferous and very likely the very best Bordeaux wine of the vintage. Concentrated, full bodied, and with still very firm tannins, but promising to open beautifully to reveal dark fruits, cassis, vanilla in its comparative youth and then deep leather, chocolate and toast flavors as it matures. So powerful and concentrated that this is a wine to set aside for long-term cellaring. My estimate, best drinking from 2010 - 2035. Score 99. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Le Pin, Pomerol, 1998: If you've ever wondered why Le Pin has attained cult status, this is the wine to try as it offers a superb demonstration of how tradition and modernism can come together in a marriage that seems to have been made in heaven. Deep ruby towards purple in color, this full bodied and remarkably luxurious wine boasts flavors aromas that open in the glass and unfold on the palate to reveal a remarkable array of black and red fruits, earthiness, tobacco, herbs and even the hint of fried bacon. Approachable now but only on the condition that your curiosity is driving you mad but if you can, cellar it at least until 2008 - 2010 before you start to drink it. The wine promises to cellar well until 2020 - 2025. Score 98. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Trotanoy, Pomerol, 1998: One of the best wines of the vintage and far heavier and more concentrated than one usually expects from Trotanoy. Almost opaque purple in color, this full bodied wine is rich, tannic and packed with berry, black cherry, oak and chocolate flavors. With still firm tannins, the wine is still in its infancy and needs time to open. It will be well worth the wait, however. Start drinking only in 2005. Score 95. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Certain de May, Pomerol, 1998: Royal purple in color, this full bodied and still quite tannic wine needs time to open before. Now dominated by damp earth and fresh leather aromas and flavors, but give the wine time and its fine balance will reveal berry, black cherry, currant and perhaps even chocolate and tobacco. The wine will be at its peak only between 2006 - 2020. Score 94. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Vieux Chateau Certain, Pomerol, 1998: Another powerhouse from Pomerol, this almost black wine is as high in tannins as it is in concentration. Look for rich berry and oak as well as generous hints of tobacco and violets in this deep, full bodied and multilayered wine. Drink from 2005 - 2020. Score 93. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

La Fleur Petrus, Pomerol, 1998: Full bodied, with still intense tannins, and with concentrated fruit, spice and fresh herbal flavors. Give this one a few years and it will show its elegance. Probably best from 2005 - 2020. Score 92.
(Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Clinet, Pomerol, 1998: Plenty of black fruit, cherry and berries in this full bodied wine and then all turns to a charming mystery, for what seems like a generous hint of tabacco at one moment turns to dark chocolate on the palate the next. Lots of smooth tannins and inherently good balance make the wine approachable now but hold if you can for the wine will be at its best only starting about 2005. Score 91. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Gazin, Pomerol, 1998: Deep purple in color, this medium to full bodied wine charms as its almost sweet fruit aromas and flavors blend together beautifully on the palate with damp earth, truffles and smoky oak. Deep and concentrated, the wine should be held at least until 2004 - 2005 and then look forward to good drinking until about 2020 - 2025. Score 91. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Latour a Pomerol, Pomerol, 1998: Despite its youth, already delicious and drinking beautifully. Full bodied, with remarkably smooth tannins and plenty of vanilla and smoke from the oak. Take that together with delicious wild berry, currant, black cherry and hints of caramel and damp earth and what you have is wine that is simultaneously chuky and elegant. Drink now - 2015. Score 91. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol, 1998: Medium to full bodied, with smooth tannins and berry, smoky oak and dark chocolate aromas and flavors that linger nicely, this is a wine to set aside. Drink from 2005 - 2015. Score 90.
(Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Petit Village, Pomerol, 1998: Deep royal purple, this medium to full bodied wine exhibits layer after layer of rich, sweet berry fruits, toasted bread, tobacco and mocha. With still firm tannins, this deep wine calls for at least short-term cellaring (let's say until 2003) before starting to drink. The wine should then cellar nicely until 2012 - 2015. Score 90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Pauillac

Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1998: Powerfully tannic, this full bodied and concentrated wine is going to need time to open, but when it does it is going to prove to be a superb Mouton. Look here for dark fruits, earth and minerals, all with plenty of tannins and excellent balance. Hold at least until 2005. Score 94. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Duhart Milon, Pauillac, 1998: Medium bodied and with red currant, cherry and earthy aromas and flavors.
Be careful though, with its still firm tannins, the wine is still in its youth and will be ready for drinking only in another 6 - 8 years. Best drinking from 2008 - 2020. Score 92. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Pichon Baron Longueville, Pauillac, 1998: Medium bodied and moderately tannic, but beautifully balanced. In addition to black and red berries, currants and cassis, look for overlays here of smoky oak, eucalyptus and hints of tar in flavors and aromas that linger beautifully. Drink from 2004 - 2020. Score 92. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac, 1998: As always, this second wine of Chateau Lafite Rothschild offers a delicious preview of what the first wine will be. Considering its excellent quality, that is nothing at all to be ashamed of.
Medium to full bodied, with plenty of tannins that are already beginning to soften and an abundance of plums, black cherries, and smoky-earthy flavors, all of which linger very nicely on the palate. Drink from 2002 - 2010. Score 91. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste, Pauillac, 1998: Medium bodied and with moderate, already softening tannins, there are plenty of red and black fruits in the flavors and aromas of this wine. Ready to drink by 2003 but will cellar nicely until 2010 - 2015. Score 91. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Latour, Pauillac, 1998: Lacking the depth and concentration of the best wines from Latour, but still impressive with smooth tannins and a broad range of wild berry, red currant, herbal and chocolate aromas and flavors, this medium to full bodied wine should drink very nicely indeed from 2005 - 2020. Score 90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac, 1998: Elegant and well balanced, this full medium to full bodied wine has ample smooth tannins and plenty of red currant fruit (as on expects from Lynch Bages). As the wine opens in the glass look as well for light vanilla and tobacco aromas and flavors. Drinkable early but the wine should cellar well until 2015 or longer. Score 90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

St Emilion

Chateau Cannon-la-Gaffeliere, St.-Emilion, 1998: A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (55, 40 and 5% respectively), this full bodied wine offers up silky smooth tannins well balanced by natural acids and wood. Look for a rich nose and flavors of currants, black fruits, vanilla and toasted oak in a wine that although still somewhat closed and firm promises to open beautifully. Drink from 2005 - 2020. Score 93. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion, 1998: A truly superb wine, one that rivals the very best of Cheval Blanc. Full bodied, rich and with a remarkable array of flavors and aromas that includes black fruits, mint, truffles, coffee, leather and toasted vanilla, this is a wine that lingers on the palate seemingly without stop. With impeccable structure and balance the wine will be at its best from 2005 - 2030. I intend to retaste this one again in several years because I can't help but believe that it may cellar even longer than that. Score 97. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

La Mondotte, St. Emilion, 1998: So full bodied that it still feels chunky on the palate, but have no fear for this concentrated and tannic wine has precisely that kind of exquisite balance and structure that bode very well for the future. As deep in color as it is in body, with more than ample alcohol and an abundance of black fruits and grape flavors as well as beautiful hints of eucalyptus and smoky oak, this is a wine that should be set aside for long-term development in the bottle. Drink from 2008 - 2025. Score 97. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Pavie, St. Emilion, 1998: Full bodied, concentrated and with remarkable power but with elegance that would be hard to beat. Deep and multi-layered, with dark fruit, berry, tobacco and smoky oak, this well crafted wine has flavors that linger on and on. Drink from 2008 - 2020 or longer. Score 97. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Angelus, St. Emilion, 1998: Full bodied and almost black in color, this well structured and well balanced wine boasts smooth tannins that let one almost immediately feel the wild berry, plum, and now mineral flavors and aromas. Let the wine develop for a decade and it will show deep spice, smoke and perhaps leathery-eucalyptus flavors and aromas. Already approachable but the wine will cellar nicely until 2015 - 2020. Score 94+. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Cannon-la-Gaffeliere, St.-Emilion, 1998: A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (55, 40 and 5% respectively), this full bodied wine offers up silky smooth tannins well balanced by natural acids and wood. Look for a rich nose and flavors of currants, black fruits, vanilla and toasted oak in a wine that although still somewhat closed and firm promises to open beautifully. Drink from 2005 - 2020. Score 93. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Ausone, St. Emilion, 1998: Unfolding beautifully now to reveal ample cherry, berry and red plum flavors and aromas. Look as well for hints of smoky oak, vanilla with a long, almost sweet aftertaste. Score 93. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Figeac, St. Emilion, 1998: Medium bodied, with black fruit, berry and cherry flavors and aromas, this well balanced wine will be approachable early but should cellar nicely. Drink from 2003 - 2010. Score 90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Franc Mayne, St. Emilion, 1998: Medium bodied, with what some will consider too much oak and others will think of as elegant. Royal purple in color, plenty of fruit, medium tannins and plenty of natural acidity make the
wine drink well now or until 2005. Score 87. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Graves

Chateau Haut Brion, Graves, 1998: Deep purple in color and packed with chocolate, black fruits, wild berries, herbal and earthy aromas, this full bodied and silky tannin wine has flavors that linger beautifully. Simultaneously elegant, ripe and compact the wine will drink well from 2005 - 2025. Score 95. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Bahans Haut Brion, Graves, 1998: This full bodied and delicious wine has no need whatever to apologize for its status as a second wine. Royal purple in color, well balanced and with good structure, the wine boasts ample amounts of ripe black berries, vanilla and oaky flavors, all of which linger nicely on the palate. Smooth tannins make the wine approachable now but look forward to cellaring until 2010. Score 90. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

La Chapelle de la Mission, Graves, 1998: Yet another second wine, this one from La Mission Haut Brion, that rises well above its category. With remarkable complexity and length, this full bodied wine has enchanting flavors and aromas of wild berries, smoke, chocolate, and mint, all coming together with soft but ample tannins to make a wine that is already very drinkable indeed but which will cellar nicely until 2008 - 2010. Score 90. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Pape Clement, Graves, 1998: Full bodied, complex and with plenty of soft tannins, this impressive effort for Pape Clement offers a mouthful of delicious wild berry, black cherry and chocolate flavors and aromas. Approachable now, the wine should cellar until 2008 - 2010. Score 90. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Haut-Bailly, Graves, 1998: Bright royal purple in color, this medium to full bodied wine has good balance between wild berry, oaky and spicy flavors and aromas. Already smooth tannins make the wine drinkable now or in the next 5 - 7 years. Score 88. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Carbonnieux, Graves, 1998: Medium bodied and without the deep tannins that once anticipates from Carbonieux, one might actually slip and think this wine came from Burgundy or, heaven forbid, even Coteaux d'Aix. Don't let that stop you though, for this medium bodied wine has plenty of good black fruits as well as light smoky vanilla overtones. Drink now - 2006. Score 87. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Chantegrive, Graves, 1998: Light to medium bodied, with not enough tannins, oak or fruits, one might easily think this a not-at-all prestigious California Cabernet blend. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 85.
(Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Margaux

Chateau Margaux, Margaux, 1998: With deep black currants aromas and flavors all overlayed with berry, spice and toasty oak, this concentrated, deep royal purple wine shows notable levels of elegance and flavors that linger nicely. Drink from 2005 - 2025 or longer. Score 95+. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Palmer, Margaux, 1998: Concentrated and elegant, with well structured tannins and beautiful currant, black fruit, chocolate and a hint of anise in its flavors and aromas. Flavors that linger nicely and already smooth tannins make the wine drinkable now but look forward to cellaring until 2010- 2012. Score 92+. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Giscours, Margaux, 1998: Deep royal purple in color this well balanced, medium bodied wine has appealing herbal overtones that nicely complement the plum, cherry and berry flavors and aromas. Drinking well now but the wine should cellar nicely until 2010 or longer. Score 91. (Taste 9 Jan 2002)

Alter Ego de Palmer, Margaux, 1998: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that some will call "New World" in style, this medium to full bodied wine has ample black cherry, black currants and plums as well as overlays of mint and vanilla. Elegance without being ostentatious. Score 90+. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Pavillon Rouge, Margaux, 1998: As a second wine should, this one gives wonderful hints (at one third the price) of what the Chateau Margaux will be. Medium to full bodied, with a deep ruby-purple color, smooth tannins and currant, berry and mild spice flavors and aromas, the wine will drink beautifully from 2004 - 2015. Score 90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Prieure Lichine, Margaux, 1998: Medium to full bodied, with a texture that is almost chunky on the palate and with still closed tannins but with the promise to open nicely to reveal good currant, black cherry and light earthy overtones, this is a wine to set aside and drink between 2004 - 2012. Score 89. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Cantenac Brown, Margaux, 1998: Medium bodied, with silky smooth tannins and plenty of black fruits this nicely balanced wine will drink well now or in the next 6 - 8 years. Lacking excitement but a pleasant quaff. Score 88. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

St. Estephe

Chateau Calon Segur, St. Estephe, 1998: Medium to full bodied, with plenty of berries and plums and hints of vanilla and pepper this may not be an overly complex wine but it is one for delicious early drinking. Score 87. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Cos d'Estournel, St. Estephe, 1998: Medium to full bodied, with plenty of black cherry, blackberry, plum flavors and aromas, all coming together with hints of mint and violets, this well balanced wine has just the right level of smooth tannins to make it approachable young but to cellar nicely. Drink 2003 - 2020. Score 90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Haut Marbuzet, St. Estephe, 1998: Ruby towards purple in color, this medium bodied wine has just the right levels of r black currants, berries and plenty of oak, all coming together with smooth tannins to make the wine drinkable from 2003 - 2012. Score 90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Ormes de Pez, St. Estephe, 1998: Royal purple in color, this medium to full bodied wine has plenty of black fruits and appealing damp earth aromas and flavors. Drink starting in 2002 but let it develop a bit longer and you will find leather, peppery and deeper spice flavors here. The wine should cellar nicely until the end of the decade.
Score 89. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

Chateau Montrolse, St. Estephe, 1998: Full bodied and concentrated with good balance between tannins, natural acids and fruits. Delicious fruit flavors that yield nicely on the palate to reveal licorice and light earthy flavors, the wine is approachable now but will be at its best between 2006 - 2025. Score 92. (Tasted 9 Jan 2002)

St. Julien

Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St. Julien, 1998: Yet another happy surprise from the Medoc, this medium to full bodied wine offers an abundance of black fruits, berries, black cherries and smoky toasted bread flavors and aromas, all with just the right hint of lead pencil overlay. Well balanced and with flavors that linger very nicely, the wine will be at its best from 2005 - 2015 or longer. Score 94+. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Leoville Poyferre, St. Julien, 1998: One of the happy surprises, this full bodied, concentrated and intense wine has smooth tannins to complement black and red fruits and enchanting earthy aromas. The wine should be at its best from 2006 - 2020. Score 93. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Julien, 1998: Royal purple with color, with attractive red-orange reflections, this medium to full bodied wine shows enchanting layers of flavors and aromas that open in the glass and on the palate.
Look for red currants, raspberries and hints of minerals and spices, in this elegant, long-lingering wine. Drink 2003 - 2012. Score 93. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Gruaud Larose, St. Julien, 1998: Another happy surprise, this medium to full bodied wine shows both individuality and elegance. Marked berry, cherry and currant flavors and aromas set off nicely by generous hints of chocolate, tobacco and minerals. Drinking well now but the wine will be at its best from 2004 - 2012. Score 92. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Branaire, St. Julien, 1998: Finally, a wine from this vintage year with the lead pencil feel on the palate that one hope to find creeping in from Bordeaux from time to time! Medium bodied, with ample currant, berry and spice flavors and aromas. Although some will find this wine a bit restrained and I cannot help but enjoy it for its uniqueness and charms. Drink from 2004 - 2012. Score 91. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Beychevelle, St. Julien, 1998: Medium bodied and boasting almost sweet flavors and aromas of black currants, Mediterranean herbs and spring flowers. Elegant and mouthfilling, look for appealing hints of toasted bread as the wine develops on the palate. Drinking well now but the wine should cellar well until the end of the decade. Score 90. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Leoville Barton, St. Julien, 1998: Deep royal purple in color, this full bodied, intensely concentrated wine
Will need time but when it does open look for flavors of plums, black currants, spring flowers and minerals. With still tight but appropriate tannins the wine should open beautifully and will drink elegantly from 2005 - 2015. Score 91. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Haut Medoc

Chateau Bel Air, Haut Medoc, 1998: One of the best Cru Bourgeois wines of the vintage, this medium to full bodied wine has ample black fruit, smoky oak and vanilla aromas and flavors, good balance between tannins and acids, and flavors that linger nicely. Drink now - 2005. Score 88. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

Chateau Sociando Mallet, 1998: Medium bodied, with black fruits, vanilla and floral aromas and flavors and already smooth tannins, this pleasant wine is destined for early drinking. Score 88. (Tasted 8 Jan 2002)

© Daniel Rogov