Few wines have caused as much excitement as the Brunellos di Montalcino of 1997. As is now well known, '97 was a superb year for Tuscany in general and if the few wines that I have tasted to date are any indication, it is going to prove splendid for Brunello.

Relatively young on the Italian wine scene, Brunello was first made by the Biondi-Santi family in 1888. Made from a clone of the Sangiovese grape that has come to be known commonly as Sangiovese Grosso or Brunello, the wine is made from grapes grown in Montalcino, a town 115 km. south of Florence, and it may be here that Sangiovese (by whatever name it goes) attains its highest levels, yielding ripe, full, rich wines, often with a high alcoholic content (sometimes in excess of 14.5%). So ideal are the grapes considered here that they are never blended with other varietals.

Traditionally Brunello is a remarkably rich, intense and long-lived wine, sometimes cellaring well for up to forty or fifty years. Not too long ago, I enjoyed a bottle of 1938 Brunello. Served from a magnum bottle, the wine was still remarkably fresh and fruity. That it was enjoyable is beyond doubt. According to law, Brunello must age in oak casks for a minimum of 42 months (the Riserva wines are aged for between five and six years), and in the best years, the wines are remarkably rich, intense and long-lived, sometimes cellaring well for as much as 40 - 50 years. Although few of the '97 Brunellos will last that long, many will hold and drink comfortably until 2020 - 2025.

Montalcino produces another wine of note - the Rosso di Montalcino. Often referred to as the "baby brother" of Brunello, the Rosso has something akin to the second wines of Bordeaux, for they as good as they may be they are approachable earlier, not as long lived, and give hints as to what their more serious, more expensive Brunello will be. The Rosso di Montalcino wines that I tasted recently at VinItaly will be reviewed in a separate piece.

Some will ask if these wines are worth the high prices that are being demanded (on the average $44 - 75 but some considerably more, all depending on one's choice). My answer, as it so often seems to be, is that even though the wines are expensive, many are special enough to be well worth the investment. Several of these wines were tasted in an advance tasting 12 January 2002. My more recent tastings at VinItaly on 12 April included all of the wines reviewed below. As always in my notes, scores are based on a maximum of 100 points. Wines rated 96 - 100 are those I consider truly great and those that earn 90 - 95 are exceptional in every way. Wines with scores of 85 - 89 are excellent and highly recommended; those with scores between 80 - 84 are recommended although without great enthusiasm; wines earning 70 - 79 are average but at least somewhat faulted; and those earning under 70 points are not recommended.

Savioni, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Full bodied, rich and elegant, this deep royal purple wine is packed with tannins, already showing signs of smoothing out, and beautiful balancing plum, blackberry and vanilla aromas and flavors. Even though the flavors already linger on and on, the wine is barely approachable now and will be at its best only starting in 2007 - 2008. After that, look forward to fine cellaring until 2025 - 2030. Score 97.

C.D. Sopra, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Well structured and with beautiful balance, this powerful and concentrated wine is still in its youth - so young in fact that the tannins make in almost unbearable to drink at this time. Wait until 2005 - 2008 to start drinking though and you will find a huge wine, with lush black fruits complemented nicely by floral, dark chocolate and earthy overtones. Another of the '97 Brunellos to hold, but this one needs "real time". Drink 2010 - 2035 or longer. Score 96.

Frescobaldi, Brunello di Montalcino, Castel Giocondo, 1997: Those who have enjoyed the Castel Giocondo wines in the past will be absolutely delighted, for this is the very best to come from Frescobaldi in many years. Full bodied, with an abundance of silky smooth tannins, and rich with flavors and aromas of black cherries, plums, chocolate and herbal-earthy overtones, the wine is well balanced and elegant and has flavors that promise to linger long and comfortably on the palate. Drink 2005 - 2020 or longer. Score 95.

Castello Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Poggio al Oro,1997: As has happened so often in the past with this wine, it is best described in terms of those stereotypes so often considered "masculine". Big, powerful, firm and muscular, this full bodied, deep royal purple colored wine surprises by how elegantly the tannins are integrated with the wood, mineral and fruit character. Look here for a purple plum, black cherry character all with deep mushroom and roasted nut flavors and aromas. This one is a year away from reaching the markets but when it does expect it to be expensive. Despite that, if Brunello is your passion, this will be one to invest in, for although approachable even now the wine should cellar nicely for 20 - 25 years. Score 95.

Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: An earlier advance tasting of this wine found me singing praises and awarding a tentative score of 94. The only thing that has changed is that my score has crept up just a bit. Deep royal purple in color, this deep and concentrated wine offers up an array of cassis, gooseberry and raspberry flavors and aromas, all complimented nicely by chocolate and mint flavors that linger long and comfortably on the palate. Approachable now but the wine will be at its best only from 2004 and then will cellar comfortably until 2010 - 2012. Score 94+.

Biondi Santi, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Deep royal purple with enchanting orange reflections, this medium to full bodied wine is going to develop into a thing of beauty over time. Plenty of still tough tannins here, but those will level out over time to reveal black and red berry, mint and earthy-leathery aromas and flavors. One of the best Brunellos from Biondi Santi in quite a few years, worth setting aside and drinking from 2004 - 2020. Score 94.

Col d'Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Still deep and brooding, this concentrated and intense wine needs time to open. When it does, look for soft tannins and an abundance of smoky oak all with spicy black fruit, floral and chocolate overtones. Hold until 2005 to start drinking but then look for a wine that will keep well until 2025- 2030. Score 94.

Fuligni, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Vigneti dei Cottimelli, 1997: Full bodied and with still firm tannins but already showing its potential elegance, this garnet colored wine has ample currant, raspberry, earthy and floral notes. Plenty of oak here but well balanced and with powerful structure, the wine should drink best from 2005 - 2020. Score 94.

Gaja, Brunello di Montalcino, Sugarille, 1997: Full bodied, well balanced and already showing its potential elegance despite its still dominant tannins, this wine will show delicious spicy black fruits, vanilla and herbal aromas and flavors as it develops. Plenty of wood here but that is well compensated for by the balancing acidity and overall good structure. Drink 2003 - 2015 or longer. Score 94.

Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: A gorgeous wine that you marvel at every sip with flavors and aromas that seem to burst forward without end. Loaded with black cherry, wild berry, mint and earthy aromas, an abundance of smooth but solid tannins and extraordinarily good balance, this is a wine that can be consumed now but will be at its best only in another 3 - 4 years and then last nicely in the bottle until 2015 - 2020. Score 94.

Uccelliera, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 1997: Full bodied, deep and intense, with plenty of tannins and good balancing acidity. Look for plenty of plum, wild berry, tobacco and smoky oak aromas and flavors here. Start drinking in 2005 and then look forward to good cellaring until 2020. Score 94.

Poggio Antico, Brunello di Montalcino, Altero, 1997: Deep, complex and elegant are only a few of the superlatives that can be spent on this wine. Deep royal purple in color, this luxurious full bodied wine offers up generous flavors and aromas of black plums, black cherries, Mediterranean herbs and chocolate, all of which fill the mouth nicely and then linger on and on. Well balanced and powerfully structured but destined for elegance as it ages, the wine will be approachable only in another 2 - 3 years and will then cellar well until 2012 - 2014. Score 94.

Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino Reserva, 1997: Aged in Slavonian oak for 36months, this medium to full bodied wine has still tough tannins but those are set off very well by abundant raspberries, ripe cranberries as well as hints of eucaplytus. Despite the tannins, the wine is drinking beautifully now and should hold nicely for another 8 - 10 years. Personally, I doubt that the tannins will subside, but those who enjoy their wines tannic and alcoholic will find this one an excellent accompaniment to roast game. Score 93.

Tenuta Il Poggione, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: An old fashioned Brunello, so dark in color that it almost refuses to reflect light and so heavy that even the tiniest of sips seems to fill the mouth with flavors and aromas. In addition to the usual plum and minty flavors that often typify this wine, look as well for licorice and a gentle but pleasing undercurrent of rosemary. Hold for another 3 - 4 years before starting to drink and then look forward to comfortable cellaring until 2010 - 2015. Score 93.

Val di Suga, Brunello di Montalcino, Vigna Spuntali, 1997: Medium to full bodied, with smooth tannins and flavors of red and black berries, plums, chocolate and just enough spiciness to intrigue the palate, this well balanced wine and concentrated wine is drinking beautifully now and should hold nicely until 2010 - 2012. Score 93.

Villa Pogio Salvi, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: With beautiful raspberry and plum aromas and an abundance of ripe fruity flavors, this full bodied and chewy wine is a Brunello lover's dream. With tannins, acidity and fruit all in balance, this is a wine that although eminently approachable now will continue to develop in the bottle until 2010 - 2012. Score 92+.

Sassetti & Tigli, Brunello di Montalcino, 1995: Medium to full bodied, with the kind of structure and backbone that indicates a wine that is intended for long-term aging. Plum, berry, cherry aromas and flavors come together nicely with a nice overlay of earthiness. Deep and warm, with herbal flavors that linger nicely on the palate, the wine will only approach its potential in another five to seven years. Drink 2007 - 2020. Score 92+.

Antinori, Brunello di Montalcino, Pian delle Vigne, 1997: Deep garnet with ruby-orange reflections, this medium to full bodied wine has (as we have come to expect from the Pian delle Vigne wines), dark and almost brooding sweet black fruits, all with excellent touches of the wood. Well balanced and with tannins already softening the wine is already approachable and will cellar nicely until 2008 - 2010. Score 92.

Campogiovanni, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: A fruity but chunky Brunello with good spice and wet hay aromas overlaying plums, wild berries, black cherries and just the barest hints of vanilla and mint.
Smooth tannins and good balance make this dark, full bodied wine approachable now but it will be even better between 2005 - 2010. Score 92.

Costanti, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Still young and thus quite closed at this writing, but give the wine some time to open in the glass and you will begin to feel its potential. Full bodied, packed with tannins that are already beginning to assume a silky character, and with plenty of sturdy fruits, all highlighted nicely by the oak, this well balanced wine promises to open beautifully and reveal its elegance in the next 4- 5 years and then cellar well until 2010- 2012. Score 92.

Conte Pavini, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: So deep in color that you might think of describing it as black, this intense and deep wine offers up plenty of cassis, berry and mint flavors as well as a generous dash of chocolate that lingers nicely on the palate. Still somewhat closed because of its youth but with good balance and structure the wine promises to age nicely. Drink 2004 - 2010. Score 92.

Fattoria Ofelio Figli, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Solid and chewy, this full bodied wine has plenty of berry, cherry, mineral and wood flavors and aromas to balance its tannins. An old-style Brunello,
with a brick-red color and plenty of backbone, the wine opens nicely in the glass, revealing flavors
that linger on and on. Drink 2003 - 2012 or longer.. Score 92.

Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Full bodied, very well balanced and with excellent structure, with flavors and aromas of berries, black cherries, mint, earthiness and even beginning hints of leather and cedar wood, this wine has flavors that linger on and on on the palate. Delicious by any standards, the wine is drinking very well now but will cellar well until 2010 - 2015. Score 92.

Castiglio del Tosco, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: A winery previously unknown to me, and that is an error that I will have to correct for this elegant, medium to full bodied wine was one of the happier surprises of my Brunello tastings. Still closed because of its youth, but already showing signs that this well balanced, deep purple wine will attain elegance as its elements integrate, and even now showing rich and complex flavors of purple plums, black cherries, mint and sweet herbs. Barely approachable now but give this one until 2004 to start drinking and look forward to cellaring until 2008 - 2012. Score 91+.

Poggio Antico, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Young and still quite closed but with the promise to reveal a beautiful, full bodied wine that will be loaded with tannins and wood, all well balanced by black fruits, earthiness and perhaps cedar wood. Drink 2004 - 2015 or longer. Score 91.

Val di Suga, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: A full bodied, concentrated wine with still powerful tannins that still have to settle down a bit but already go nicely with aromas and flavors of wild berries, spices, vanilla and freshly picked mushrooms. With its assertive but not at all aggressive personality the wine can be consumed now or in the next 7 - 9 years. Score 91+.

Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino, Poggio Alle Mura, 1997: Some will find this wine delicious and others will find it too "New-World" in style. Me…I found it delicious, for its ripe plum and raspberry flavors, silky tannins, minty and spicy character have just enough wood to make it unusual but not shocking. Approachable now but the wine will cellar well until 2010 - 2012. Score 91.

San Giorgio, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Brick red with orange reflections, this full bodied Brunello boasts a muscular structure and excellent balance. Mouthfilling flavors of black fruits, mint and Mediterranean herbs, along with a pleasing earthy "feel" on the palate come together with plenty of smooth tannins and just a bit of vanilla at the end. Drink 2004 - 2012. Score 91.

Poggio Antico, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Deep, almost impenetrable purple in color, this complex, full bodied wine has an abundance of currant, berry and mint flavors as well as ample hints of chocolate and tobacco that find their way quietly in on the long lingering finish. Bordering on elegance, the wine is approachable now but will be at its best only starting in 2004 - 2005. Score 91.

Poggio Il Castelarre, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Medium to full bodied, this deep ruby colored wine offers up a generous mouthful of black fruit, herbal and earthy flavors, all of which lie on a well built frame destined for aging very nicely indeed. Smooth and delicious on the palate, this generous and elegant wine can be approached now or cellared until 2010 - 2012. Score 91.

San Garlo, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: With its deep, almost impenetrable purple color, this wine offers up the ideal answer for those who have sought the flavors and aromas chocolate in their wines.
Not to worry though, for this is no mere liqueur, but a marvelously well balanced wine, the chocolate blending beautifully with dark fruit, herbal and wood flavors, an appealingly chunky texture and flavors that linger very nicely indeed. Drink 2003 - 2012. Score 90+.

Carpinetto, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Don't be surprised if this wine reminds you more of a fine Cabernet than a traditional Brunello. But that is no drawback, for with deep aromas and flavors of black currants, mint and blackberries, this full bodied wine has silky tannins that make it beautiful for drinking now or in the next three to four years. Look for the wine to develop nicely in the bottle.
Score 90.

Sesti, Brunello di Montalcino, Castello di Argiano, 1997: Deep garnet red, with orange and purple reflections as it is held to the light, this full bodied and well balanced wine has a tempting array of black fruit, wild berry, mint and earthy flavors and aromas, all of which come together in mouthfilling ways. Drink from 2003 to 2010. Score 90.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Deep, rich and already showing its excellent balance and muscular structure, but maintaining a comfortable level of elegance, this tempting wine has a deep cherry-red color, tannins that promise to integrate nicely as the wine develops and flavors that linger comfortably. Brick red in color, the wine will be at its best from 2004 - 2012. Score 90.

Fanti, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Medium to full bodied, with still firm tannins and a brooding garnet red color, this appealing wine shows enchanting flavors and aromas of cassis, wild berries and tobacco. Flavors that linger nicely. Best from 2004 - 2010. Score 90.

Siro Pacenti, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Medium to full bodied, with a deep ruby color and orange reflections, this well balanced wine shows good black fruit, coffee and earthy aromas and flavors. Already approachable but at its best from 2003 - 2010. Score 90.

Altesino, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Lighter and perhaps more in the country-style than one usually expects from a fine Brunello but tempting because of its berry, tobacco and leather aromas, sweet berry f lavors and firm tannins. Look for black cherries and cigar tobacco flavors that linger nicely after the wine has been swallowed. Score 89.

Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Deep brick red in color, this medium to full bodied wine offers up generous plum and berry flavors, all coming together well with tannins that promise to smoothen out with time and overall good balance. Somewhat short, but that may be because of the wine's youth, so a retasting will be in order in 2 - 3 years. Score 89.

La Chiuse, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Full bodied and chunky, this country-style Brunello has many charms, not the least of which are the minty-earthy hints that integrate nicely with black fruits. Good balance between tannins and acids and just the right feel of the wood make the wine approachable now but don't hesitate to hold this one until 2005 - 2007. Score 89.

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragon, Brunello di Montalcino, Vigna di Pian Rosso 1997: With a deep red towards purple color, this full bodied and sensuous wine has ample black fruit, berry, cassis aromas and flavors, all with appealing overlays of tobacco and what might be a hint of sweet spices that creep in at the end. Drink 2003 - 2010. Score 89.

Il Colle, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: With tempting aromas and flavors of eucalyptus and black fruits, this medium to full bodied and moderately tannic, deep ruby red wine is drinking nicely now and should cellar nicely until 2005 - 2007. Score 89.

Fossacolle, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Deep royal purple in color, this full bodied country-style Brunello imparts a comfortably chunky, almost chewy sensation to the mouth. Good balance here, and plenty of still firm but already acceptable tannins, all with flavor and aromas of blackberries, black cherries, stewed plums and a nice herbal touch on the finish. Score 89.

La Palazzetta, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: As if refcting its color of dusty red bricks, this medium to full bodied wine is earthy in every way. Good fruits but primarily coffee, earthy, leathery aromas with the saving grace of blackberry, chocolate and floral aromas and flavors that come in towards the end. Drink now - 2008. Score 89.

Lambardi, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Lots of black cherries, juniper berries, alspice and violets and tannins that are already showing fine integration with the wood, this medium to full bodied wine is approachable now but will be at its best only from 2003 - 2007. Score 89.

Agostini Pieri, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Ruby red toward purple, this medium bodied Brunello has good black fruit, herbal and vanilla flavors that linger nicely. Smooth tannins and good balance make the wine drinkable now or through 2006. Score 88.

Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Solid and chewy, this full bodied wine has plenty of berry, cherry, mineral and wood flavors and aromas to balance its tannins. An old-style Brunello,
with a brick-red color and plenty of backbone, the wine opens nicely in the glass, revealing flavors
that linger on and on. If the wine is faulted at all it is primarily because the tannins, wood and fruits fit together in a somewhat clumsy fashion. Drink now or in the next few years. Score 88

Cantino di Montalcino, Brunelli di Montalcino, 1997: Medium to full bodied deep red towards opaque purple in color, and with smooth tannins, this fruit-driven wine boasts plenty of plum, cherry, chocolate and herbal aromas and flavors. Well balanced and approaching elegance, the wine is comfortably approachable now and should cellar well until 2006 - 2007. Score 88.

Ruffino, Brunello di Montalcino, Tenuta Il Greppone Mazzi, 1997: Fuller in body than earlier Ruffino releases, this tempting wine offers good layers of herbal and berry flavors and aromas. Silky smooth tannins and a long aftertaste make the wine drinkable now - 2005. Score 88.

Cassanova, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Solid and chunky, this full bodied wine has good balance between fruits (look for blueberries, raspberries and cherries), mineral and wood flavors and aromas. Still tough tannins just starting to integrate. Drink starting in 2004. Score 87.

La Fiorita, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Medium to full bodied, with smooth tannins and appealing flavors and aromas of prunes, mint and earthiness, this not overly complex but very appealing wine is intended for drinking now - 2004. Score 87.

Le Macioche, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Being light to medium bodied may be acceptable for a Vino Nobile or a Chianti but it does not quite cut the mustard for a Brunello. Despite its lack of weight, a pleasant wine, with cassis, berry and light eucalyptus overtones, drinking well now or for another year or two. Score 87.

Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Solid and chewy, this full bodied wine has ample berry, cherry, mineral and wood flavors and aromas. What keeps the wine from true excellence is that its tannins and acidity seem out of balance, making the mouth pucker just a bit and leaving a somewhat tart aftertaste that is not entirely welcome. Let it open in the glass for at least half an hour before drinking. Drink from 2003 - 2006. Score 86.

Croce di Mezzo, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: A good but not excellent Brunello largely because of its muted flavors and too firm tannins. If you hunt for them you will find this medium bodied wine to have aromas and flavors of berries, moccha and plums. Difficult to say whether wine will open in the future, thus I suggest drinking now - 2004. Score 85.

San Filippo, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Medium bodied and pleasant enough with up-front fruit flavors and aromas but lacking the depth or breadth that might have made this more than merely a pleasant little wine. Score 85.

Ferro di Burroni Carlo, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: I tasted this one from three different bottles, all of which showed a bit of early browning and oxidation giving it a sweet, almost Madeira-like nose and flavors that hinted too strongly of caramel and not enough of fruits. Score 78.

Il Paradiso di Manfredi, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: With its too brown rim and flavors that are assuming an unwanted sweetness and hiding the fruits that struggle to make themselves felt, it is difficult to say whether this wine is oxidized, caramelized or simply badly made. (Tasted from 3 separate bottles with consistent notes). Score 50.

Pian dell'Orino, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997: Not being a winemaker, I cannot say exactly what went wrong with this wine. I can, however report after tastings from three different bottles that the aromas that call to mind nothing more than they do decaying meat make it difficult to even explore the flavors of the wine. Usually a reliable house, but I do not believe that this wine should have been released to the market. Score 50.

© Daniel Rogov