Rogov's Ramblings
Burgundy Whites - 1999
A Special Tasting Report

The 1999 white wines of Burgundy provide an excellent demonstration to the effect that vintage charts can have value, even though they are little more than a "rough guide" to the quality of wines that can be expected from any region in a given year. My own estimate for the '99 Burgundy whites was that the year would be excellent as were those of Berry Brothers and Rudd in London and Robert Parker. (Berry Brothers and I assigned "scores" of 8 out of 10 to the year, and Parker's evaluation was somewhat higher, an 88 out of 100). After a recent series of tastings in which I sampled 110 white Burgundy wines, I (and, I presume, my colleagues) and can rest comfortably on our predictive laurels, for of those 7 wines earned scores of 95 and an impressive 43 earned between 90 - 94. Forty-one wines earned scores of between 85 - 89; 17 earned 80 - 84 and only 2 of the wines that I tasted scored under 80. All in all, an excellent year indeed!

The 1999 white Bugundy wines that earned scores of 95 were Jean Marc Boillot (for their Puligny-Montrachet, Champ-Canet); Chartron & Trebuchet (for their Batard-Montrachet); Michel Coutoux, (Meursault Les Charmes); Bernard Moreau (Chasagne-Montrachet, La Maltroie and his Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Embrazees); Michel Niellon (Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Champgains) and Ramonet (Batard-Montrachet). Equally impressive is the record of La Chablisienne with nine wines earning between 90 - 94 points.

Barton & Guestier, Macon-Villages Blanc, 1999: Lacking fruit, far too astringent and without charm. Drink now if at all. Score 78. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Albert Bichot, Pouilly-Fuisse, 1999: Lovely Pouilly-Fuisse, with plenty of spices, oak and toasty flavors coming together with good fruits and a smooth, long finish. Drink now - 2005. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Albert Bichot, Chablis, Les Beugnons, Domaine Long-Depaquit, 1999: Medium bodied and with nice fruit and spice and just a hint of minerals in its personality. An acceptable if not somewhat simple quaff. Score 82. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Borgeot, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Charmes, 1999: When they coined the word "racy" to describe white wines, this was the one they had in mind. Plenty of natural acids and fruits come together very nicely in this beautifully creamy Chardonnay. Look for minerals, dried apricots and vanilla in this charming white. Drinking well now but the wine will cellar well until 2004 - 2005. Score 88+. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Jean-Marc Boillot, Pulighy-Montrachet Champ-Canet, 1999: Pear, green apple and dried apricots come together beautifully in this full bodied, harmonious and well balanced white wine. With mouth-filling flavors that linger nicely this is a wine to hold another year or two and then drink until 2010 - 2012. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean-Marc Boillot, Merusalt, Charrons, 1999: Almost delicate despite its medium body, and with fascinating flavors and aromas of citrus, toffee and sweet cream, this wine lingers beautifully on the palate. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean-Marc Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes, 1999: Medium bodied and with good balance between natural acids, oak and fruits (look especially for limes, oranges and passion fruit), this well made and delicious wine will drink well for another 4 - 5 years. Score 89. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean-Marc Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet, 1999: A wine for those who enjoy a fair amount of oak in their Chardonnay. Get past the oak and you will find good pear, lime and honey flavors and aromas as well as hints of pine nuts that creep in towards the end. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean-Marc Boillot, Rully, La Pucelle, 1999: Crisp and lively with plenty of oak and ripe fruit, this medium to full bodied wine may be just a bit too acidic to last very long. Drink now. Score 82. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Borgeot, Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, 1999: A super-sophsiticated white, medium to full bodied and with plenty of natural acids and distinct aromas and flavors of limes, pears and herbs. Hold for another year and then drink until the end of the decade. Score 92. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Bouchard Pere et Fils, Corton-Charlemagne, 1999: As full bodied as one could hope for, and with tempting pear, citrus, mineral and sweet herbal flavors, this rich and sophisticated wine will start to come into its own only in another 2 - 3 years. After that, the wine should cellar nicely until 2010- 2010. Score 94+. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet, La Cabotte, 1999: Medium to full bodied, with beautiful spice, pear and smoky flavors and aromas, this still firm wine is already showing signs that it will be irresistible in another year or two. Look forward to fine drinking between 2002 or 2003 and until the end of the decade. Score 92. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet, 1999: Medium bodied and well balanced, with very appealing pear, fresh bread, smoke and spices, this elegant wine will drink beautifully from 2002 - 2010. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Meursault Genevieres, 1999: There are citrus and mineral flavors and aromas in this medium bodied wine but at least as of this tasting the wine was still very closed and those flavors are particularly stingy. Whether the wine will open in time is open to debate, so I intend to taste it again in about two years. Until then, temporary score 86. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Beaune Blanc, Clos St.-Landry, 1999: A slightly rough country style wine with citrus, grassy and smoky flavors. Drink now. Score 81. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Les Clos, 1999: Full bodied and with good balance between minerals, citrus fruits and a hint of smoke in its flavors and aromas, this flinty Chablis is drinking nicely now but will cellar well until 2005 - 2006. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis, Cote de L'Echet, 1999: Medium bodied and with plenty of lemon and wildflowers but lacking the mineral-crispness that one hope to find in fine Chablis. Score 84. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Fourchaume, 1999: Medium bodied, with citrus and pears and a hint of vanilla, but without the mineral or flinty feelings that one seeks in Chablis wines. Score 84. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Monte de Tonnerre, 1999: Lots of flint and minerals here, but also good pear, green apple and appealing doughy aromas and flavors. Long on the palate and delicious if not quite as complex as one might hope for. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Valmur, 1999: A rather internationalized Chardonnay, and even though you will find plenty of citrus, pineapple and green banana aromas and flavors, lacking depth or complexity. On the plus side, the wine is refreshing and makes for good if not simple drinking. Drink now. Score 83. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Carillon, Pulighy-Montrachet, Les Champs Canet, 1999: White Burgundy for those who love white Burgundy wines. Full bodied and almost thick on the palate, with flavors of lemon pie and plenty of vanilla and oak, a very well balanced wine destined for long term cellaring. Drink now or until 2008 - 2010. About $100. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, 1999: Delicious herbal and mineral overtones on citrus, peach and sweet nut flavors come together quite nicely in this medium to full bodied wine. Drink now or in the next 4 - 5 years.Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Perrieures, 1999: Medium bodied and with good pear and oak flavors but in the end somewhat one dimensional. Perhaps the wine will come together in time. Drinking now or until 2004. Score 86. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Premier Cru, 1999: The minerals, fruits, vanilla and spices in this wine need time to come together but when they do, they promise to be absolutely lovely. Hold for another year or two and then look forward to good drinking until the end of the decade. Score 94. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis Clos de l'Echet, 1999: Delicious, well structured Chablis with traditional flinty, mineral and damp earth aromas, lively acidity and plenty of citrus and pear flavors. Drink now or until 2003 - 2004. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Grenouille, 1999: Rich, intense and bordering on elegance, and loaded with lemon curd, citrus and tropical fruit aromas and flavors with just the right mineral underpinning. The wine is drinking very well now but will cellar well until 2006 - 2008. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Bougros, 1999: Beautifully balanced, this medium bodied white has plenty of pear and citrus fruits, all set off very well by chalky-flinty mineral flavors and aromas and oak. Drink now or look forward to fine drinking until 2008 - 2010. Score 91.

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Les Preuses, 1999: Set this one aside to develop in the bottle for another two to three years and then anticipate a crisply dry wine with plenty of oak, lemon and spices. My estimate is that the wine will drink well until 2006 - 2008. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis Les Lys, 1999: Oak, minerals, and plenty of fruit here, but still very closed and not yet fully revealing its citrus, pear and flowery overtones, this is a wine that will be ready to drink only in another 2 - 3 years and will then hold nicely until 2006 - 2008. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis Premier Cru, Vielles, Vignes, 1999: Full bodied and with citrus, pear and mineral flavors and aromas this is a wine that opens slowly in the glass and on the palate but once opened shows itself as a rich, crisp mouthful of long-lingering flavors. Hold and drink from 2002 - 2005. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis Les Clos, 1999: Always a bit unusual because it hints of toffee, but consistently delicious from year to year. Full bodied and elegant, with spicy, smoky aromas overlaying good fruit and mineral content, this may not be a wine for long term cellaring, but by heaven, it will make for spendid drinking now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 90. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis Les Fourchaume, Les Vaulorents, 1999: As it has been over the last five years, this beautiful full bodied 1999 wine is primarily for those who like their Chablis well oaked. Plenty of pear and vanilla flavors, lots of minerals and just bare hints of citrus come together nicely. Look for a pleasing hint of sweetness to creap in at the finish. Drink now or in the next 4 - 5 years. Score 89. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Mont de Milieu, 1999: A full bodied Chablis, with citrus, pears and even sweet cream and hazelnuts that make themselves nicely felt. Meant for young drinking, but delicious in its youth. Score 89. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Montmain, 1999: Smooth, creamy and full bodied, with lemon, pomello and wild flower flavors and aromas over a mineral rich personality. Drink now - 2004. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Blanchot, 1999: Medium to full bodied, this spicy and smoky wine combines pearh, peach, smoky and honeyed flavors and aromas in ways that cannot help but please. Drink now or in the next two years. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Vaudesir, 1999: A mineral, spice and vanilla driven wine with what may not be quite enough citrus and pear flavors and aromas to pull it all together. Hold until 2002 - 2003 before starting to drink. Score 87.

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Grenouille, Chateau Grenouille, 1999: Heavily oaked, this spicy wine shows good apricot, peach and just a hint of citrus character. Let the wood settle down and drink from 2003 - 2008. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Les Fourchaume, L'Homme Mort, 1999: Don't worry about the name of this wine, for there is nothing whatever "dead" about or in it. Lots of fruit, spring flowers and just a hint of toffee make for pleasant if not overly sophisticated drinking. Drink now. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis Vaillon, 1999: Traditional Chablis with plenty of minerals and flint, but unusual in that it also contains a rather smoky, honeyed nose. Pleasant for drinking now or in the next year or so. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Beauroy, 1999: Medium bodied, with lemon, lime and tropical fruit flavors and aromas, this soft but delicious wine will go very nicely with seafood antipasti and with grilled shrimps. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 85. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Chartron & Trebuchet, Batard-Montrachet, 1999: Full bodied and with enormous depth and length with exquisite pear, apple and spring flower aromas and flavors, this rich and delicious wine is drinking beautifully now but should cellar well until 2010. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Chartron & Trebuchet, Batard-Montrachet, Bienvenues, 1999: Powerful and full bodied but with an elegant finesse, this well balanced white has an almost honeyed nose. With plenty of ripe summer fruits and good overlays of minererals and earthiness, the wine is drinkable now and should last nicely for five - six more years. Score 92. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Gerard Chavy, Pulighy-Montrachet, Les Clavoillons, 1999: Citrus, honey and smoky flavors and aromas come together very nicely in this medium to full bodied Chardonnay. Look especially for the lingering flavor of fresh limes. Drink now - 2005. Score 91. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Marc Colin, Chassange-Montrachet Les Caillerets, 1999: A literal bouquet of fruits, minerals and flowers here in this delicious full bodied wine. Look for pear, apple, heather, smoke and even light overtones of honey, and oak in this long, long wine. Drink now or in the next 8 - 10 years. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Marc Colin, Montrachet, 1999: A medium to full bodied wine, offering an abundance of of apples, pineapples and pears, along aromas and flavors of pie dough and minerals. Well balanced and with concentrated flavors that linger nicely, the wine can be enjoyed now or until about 2005 - 2006. Score 90. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Marc Colin, Batard-Montrachet, 1999: So clean and pure that you might think this a Chablis, but set apart by tempting butterscotch and toasted bread flavors and aromas. Well balanced, this medium bodied wine is drinking well now but will cellar nicely until 2004 - 2005. Score 89. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Marc Colin, Puligny-Montrachet, Le Trezin, 1999: Medium bodied and soft but overall well structured and with fruit and herbs in its aromas and flavors, this wine will drink well now or in the next four-five years. Score 85. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, 1999: Delicious herbal and mineral overtones on citrus, peach and sweet nut flavors come together quite nicely in this medium to full bodied wine. Drink now or in the next 4 - 5 years. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes, 1999: Green apple, sweet pear, grass and herbal flavors come together very nicely in this rich, full bodied and near-elegant wine. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michel Coutoux, Meursault Les Charmes, 1999: Depth, power and elegance come together beautifully in this remarkably complex white wine. As the wine sits on the palate look for flavors and aromas of citrus (pomello and limes) comfortably married to attractive hints of earthiness, minerals and Mediterranean herbs. Approachable now but the wine will come to its best only in another year or so and will then hold nicely until 2008 - 2010. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michael Coutoux, Meursault Les Genevieres, 1999: Concentrated and full bodied, and not so much dominated by fruits as it is by grass, damp earth, and flowers (look for aromas of heather, jasmine and lemon leaves), this wine will remind many more of a Bordeaux or Australian Sauvignon Blanc than it will of a Burgundy Chardonnay. Despite whatever intellectual discombobulation it may cause, the wine is delicious. Not for everyone perhaps but those who like it will absolutely adore it. I was one of those who liked it! Score 94. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Domaine des Deux Roches, St. Veran, Vielles Vignes, 1999: Full bodied and with lemon, lemon curd and plenty of vanilla from the oak in which it developed, this well balanced wine will be at its best from 2002 - 2005. Score 90. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Puligny-Montrachet, 1999: Well structured, this elegant white is a Rorschach test of flavors and aromas. Among other things look for lime, grapefruit, toasted pine nuts and oak, all overlayed beautifully with hint of roasted nuts and honey. Medium bodied but so well structure you might think that this is a wine to eat rather than drink. Drinking well now, the wine should cellar nicely until 2005 - 2006. Score 91.

Joseph Drouhin, Meursault, 1999: Medium bodied and with racy citrus, pear and mineral flavors, this complex wine has flavors that linger on and on. Drink from 2002 - 2005. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Rully, 1999: Medium to full bodied, and with very appealing spicy overtones to its fruit. Enough oak here to give a long lingering buttery finish. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1999: Delicious! Full bodied and with remarkably smooth and comfortable bouquet and flavors (look for pear, passion fruit, pineapple and honey). A wine meant to be consumed in its youth but charming enough that this should not be held against it. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, St.-Aubin, 1999: Light to medium bodied and with very attractive ripe apple, pear, and honey flavors and aromas. Very enjoyable and meant for drinking now or in the next year. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis, Domaine de Vaudon, 1999: Light to medium bodied, with lemon, pomello and green apple notes, this simple but pleasant wine is fully ready for drinking now. Score 84. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis, Vaudesir, 1999: Too spicy and too much of an overbaked fruit pie and not enough like a fine Chablis. Score 80. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

William Febre, Chablis, Monte de Tonnere, 1999: Pear, citrus, smoke and honey come together very well in this medium to full bodied, round and silky wine. Drinking beautifully now, the wine should cellar well until 2005 - 2006. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

William Febre, Chablis Fourchaume, 1999: Talk about flinty-mineral laden Chablis and this is the wine that you were referring to. Happily, all of that is balanced nicely by citrus, sweet pear, and distinct flavors and aromas. Plenty of oak when you first start sipping, but that recedes quickly as the wine opens in the glass. Drink between 2002 - 2005. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Alex Gambal, Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos St.-Jean, 1999: Not much of this wine was made. All of which is a shame because this remarkably full bodied wine is a Chardonnay lover's dream. With plenty of pomello, lemon and citrus flowers in its aromas and flavors and with complex layers of lady fingers (those lovely cookies that the Italians love so much), toast, herbs and oaky flavors this remarkably full bodied wine is a Chardonnay lover's dream. Not much was made, so you may really have to hunt for this one. Well worth the effort. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October 2001)

Alex Gambal, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Champ-Gain, 1999: Full bodied and with good concentration. Lots of apples and pears here, all with a doughy, smoky character. Good flavors and texture that sit comfortably on the palate. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Alex Gambal, Fixin, 1999: Medium to full bodied, with plenty of natural acidity balanced well by flavors and aromas of lemon and pomello and vanilla, this very attractive white has toasty-spicy notes on the finish. Drink now or until 2004 - 2005. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Alex Gambal, Bourgogne, Cuve Alexa, 1999: A pleasant but somewhat internationalized Chardonnay that might as well come from Australia or California. Citrus, pear and pineapples here, together with a few smoky and toast notes. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Alex Gambal, Chasagne-Montrachet, 1999: An oddball wine, for what you will find here are not so much fruits or oak but what I call "movie-house" flavors of buttered popcorn and toffee. Medium bodied, with just a few citrus notes that come through at the end. Perhaps better with time, but who knows? A wine for me to retaste in about two years. Tentative Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Alex Gambal, Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie, 1999: Light and even perhaps too light, with somewhat diluted citrus and apple flavors, this is a wine destined for early drinking. Score 84. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Vincent Giardin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, 1999: Luscious and complex, this full bodied Chardonnay is packed with lemon, pomello, toast, vanilla and herbal flavors and aromas, all of which unfold beautifully on the palate and then lingers very nicely. Drinkable now, the wine should cellar well until 2006 - 2008. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Vincent Giradin, Meursault, Les Charmes, 1999: Medium bodied, with plenty of citrus all set off by fresh forest aromas, this lively and delicious wine will drink well until 2005 or longer. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Jadot, Pouilly Fuisse, 1999: Lots of fruit here but not much depth and too acidic to make it interesting. Score 80. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Larue, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Garennes, 1999: Beautifully balanced, this full bodied, deep and multi-layered wine has citrus, mineral, nutty and grassy notes, all of which come together. A wine destined for long life. Approachable now but will be even better between 2004 - 2008. Score 92.

Louis Latour, Meursault-Blagny, Chateau de Blagny, 1999: In addition to the citrus, apple and nut flavors and aromas that one anticipates from Blagny, you will also find here a very clear hint of fresh green olives. Medium bodied and crisp, the wine is approachable now but will be even better in another year or two. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1999: A Chardonnay that could have come from anyplace in the world. Apple, pineapple, citrus and a hint of eucalyptus flavors and aromas make this a simple little wine. Drink now. Score 82. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, 1999: Medium bodied, oaky and spicy but lacking the fruit that would elevate it from a simple to a very pleasing wine. Score 82. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Latour, Chablis, 1999: Pleasant, with pear, citrus and dried fruits but lacking any sign of minerals or flint. Good for everyday drinking. Score 80. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Latour, Beaune Blanc, 1999: Citrus, pineapple and light spicy flavors make this a not at all compled but pleasant little wine. Score 80. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Latour, Pulginy-Montrachet, 1999: About all that can be said for this wine, good or bad, is that it is Chardonnay. Drink now. Score 78. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Olivier Leflaive Freres, Bourgogne Blanc, 1999: Surprisingly good for a wine with no special pedigree. Plenty of fruits, natural acids and hints of minerals and herbs here. Drink now. Score 83. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Pierre Matrot, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Chalmeaux, 1999: I know that some people say that you cannot taste flint, but it remains clear to me that when a wine is "flinty" everyone will recognize that. Thus, I am not embarrassed to write that this is a medium to full bodied flinty and mineral rich wine, one with just enough citrus and herbal flavors and aromas to come together beautifully. Drinkable now, but I suggest holding the wine and making the very best of its charms from 2003 - 2010. Score 94. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Pierre Matrot, Bourgogne Blanc, 1999: Considering its lack of pedigree, a very pleasant wine, with citrus, minerals and damp earth in its aromas and flavors. Medium bodied and with plenty of oak, the wine will drink well for the next two - three years. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Mommessin, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1999: One of the better white wines from Mommessin in five years. Medium to bull bodied, with appealing lemon-lime, green apple flavors and aromas and just enough spiciness. Let the wood settle down here and the wine will make nice drinking starting in another year and until 2005. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bernard Moreau, Chasagne-Montrachet, La Maltroie, 1999: Passion fruit, guava, and coconut are among the tropical fruits that make themselves felt through layers of herbal and mineral flavors and aromas in this elegant and full bodied white. Drinkable now, the wine should cellar nicely until the end of the decade. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Embrazees, 1999: With quiet but marked elegance, this is the kind of wine that makes a liar out of those who say that whites cannot be as complex as reds. Full bodied and with delicate citrus, earthy and mineral notes, the flavors are overlayed with layer after layer of oak, honey and spices, and with flavors that linger beautifully long after the wine has been swallowed. Drink now - 2005. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, Grandes Ruchottes, 1999: Medium bodied and beautifully balanced, this tempting wine boasts lime and grapefruit flavors together with hints of honey, dried fruits and just a hint of flintiness. Drinkable now but the wine should cellar until the end of the decade. Score 93. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Macherelles, 1999: Showing all of the citrus, mineral and honeyed flavors that Burgundy Chardonnay is capable of, this delicious full bodied wine is perfectly balanced and has flavors that linger beautifully. Drink now - 2005 or perhaps even longer. Score 92. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chenevottes, 1999: Medium to full bodied, with rather underplayed citrus and green apple flavors and aromas, this pleasant but not complex wine can be drunk anytime from now - 2003. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Christian Moreau Pere & Fils, Chablis Les Clos, 1999: An old fashioned Chablis, and believe me, that is a compliment, for what you feel here are beautiful layers of lemons, pears and green apples, all coming together very nicely with flinty, mineral rich character. Flavors that linger nicely make this an especially good match to raw oysters! Drink now or until 2005 or 2006. Score 91+. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Christian Moreau Pere & Fils, Chablis, 1999: Look for lemon, lime and tropical fruits in this medium bodied wine. Simple but quite pleasant, the wine is fully ready for drinking now. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Champgains, 1999: You'll find some pineapple and green apples here but the real character of this full bodied wine comes from its toasted oak and nutty nose. Deep and complex, with flavors that unfold nicely on the palate, the wine should be held for a year or two and then will drink nicely until the end of the decade. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet, Close de la Maltroie, 1999: Rich, well balanced and elegant, with citrus, pineapple and just the right level of spiciness make this elegant wine drinkable now or in the next 4 - 5 years. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michel Niellon, Chevalier-Montrachet, 1999: Rich and thick, silky and with pear and earthy, flinty aromas and flavors as well as just enough oak to add character and flavors that linger nicely. Drink now - 2005. Score 90. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1999: A country-style wine with a personality redolent of smoke and herbs but with plenty of citrus and sweet cream. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score85. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Fernand & Laurent Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Vergers, 1999: Full bodied and with flinty-mineral overlays to good fruit and herbal aromas and flavors. Finishes with a lovely smoky sensation. Drink now - 2004. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Fernand & Laurent Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, 1999: Beautifully balanced, this full bodied Chardonnay shows excellent citrus, pear, herbal and honey flavors and aromas. Smooth on the palate and with flavors that linger nicely, the wine is drinking well now and should cellar well for 3 - 4 years longer. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Prieur-Brunet, Meursault, Les Chevalieres, 1999: An intellectual's wine, for this is one you have to think about, for it starts out on the palate in rather subdued manners before opening to reveal delicious citrus, apple and mineral flavors and aromas. Medium bodied and very drinkable now through 2003 - 2004. Score 89. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Jacques Prieur, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes, 1999: Deep, full bodied and generous, this almost thick wine boasts ample pear, citrus and tropical fruits and an almost honeyed finish. Drink now or in the next 5 - 6 years. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jacques Peieur, Montrachet, 1999: Full body and plenty of oak and spicy flavors here, but lacking in fruit and lacking harmony. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 85. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jacques Prieur, Meursault, Clos de Mazeray, 1999: This medium bodied Chardonnay shows off with plenty of toasty oak and honey but the wine is so abundant in lemon flavors and aromas here that it feels one-dimensional and disappointing. Drink now or in another year or two. Score 84. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Ramonet, Batard-Montrachet, 1999: Medium to full bodied, with plenty of fruits overlaid by generous eucalyptus and mineral flavors and aromas. Still young, this luscious white wine needs time to open in the glass, but once it does its offers an "oh wow" mouthful. The wine will cellar nicely for 8 - 10 years. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Boudriotte, 1999: Full bodied and powerful, with apricot, citrus and spring flowers matched very nicely indeed by smoky, mineral and earthy flavors and aromas. Flavors that linger nicely and good balance make the wine drinkable now or in the next 4 - 5 years. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Ruchottes, 1999: This medium bodied wine is smooth and loaded with vanilla, citrus and torpical fruits and with plenty of oak. Well balanced and multi-dimensional, and with an distinct flinty-mineral personality, the wine will drink well anytime for the next 5 - 6 years. Score 90. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, 1999: Medium bodied and with a smoky, grassy and oaky character but with plenty of underlying pear, citrus and apple flavors and aromas, this deep, multi-leveled wine will drink nicely now - 2005. Score 89. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1999: For reasons not fully known, this, like many of the '99 Chassagne-Montrachet wines seem to have a distinct Chablis personality. Plenty of minerals and flint in this medium bodied wine, along with crisp acidity and citrus fruit aromas and flavors. Hold for another year and then drink through 2005 - 2006. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Daniel Rion & Fils, Bourgogne Blanc, 1999: Medium bodied, fruity and even though lacking sophistication, a pleasant little wine. Score 80. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Rollet, Pouilly Fuisse, Domaine de la Chapelle, Vielles Vignes, 1999: Flinty and packed with mineral flavors, all accompanied nicely by pear, passion flower and citrus flowers, this medium to full bodied and very well balanced Pouilly Fuisse will drink nicely now or in the next 4 - 5 years. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Rollet, Pouilly-Fuisse, Domaine de la Chapelle, 1999: Good balancing acids and plenty of fruit and spices come together well in this medium-bodied, just oaky enough wine. A long and comfortable finish make this wine drinkable now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Etienne Sauzet, Batard-Montrachet, 1999: Subdued at first sip, but opening to reveal luxurious and sensual aromas and flavors of citrus, toasted oak, minerals and spring flowers, this is a wine to set aside for at least two or three years before starting to drink. Score 92. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet, Champ Canet, 1999: Full bodied and thick in texture, this well focused and multi-layered wine is packed with honey, lemon and smoke. Fresh, crisp and delicious. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet, 1999: Full bodied, oaky and creamy but with plenty of natural acids and fruits that bring the wine into excellent balance. Drinkable now, but I would hold it for another and then drink until 2005 - 2006. Score 90+. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Perrieures, 1999: Medium bodied but with its fruits somewhat outweighed by oak and sweet floral aromas and flavors, this is a wine destined for good but early drinking. Score 85. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Etienne Sauzet, Chevalier-Montrachet, 1999: Medium bodied and crisply dry, with nice fruits, herbs and nutty flavors and aromas, a wine to drink now. Score 84. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

© Daniel Rogov

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