Many people are touting the 1999 red vintage of Burgundy as the greatest since 1990. Here I go once again (as happens from time to time), taking a somewhat minority view, for even though I consider 1999 a truly excellent year, I cannot help but heed that nagging little voice that keeps saying that is just is not as great as 1990. In 1990, more than eighty of the Burgundy reds I sampled earned scores of 95 or higher. To coin a phrase, there are some really great wines coming out of the'99 vintage, but overall the year is better compared to 1989, or 1995. Another difference is that many of the 1990 wines will continue to age well until 2035 - 2050, but few of the 1999 wines will have that kind of staying power.

Now to the good news. Now making their way to market throughout the world, many of the wines of the 1999 vintage have expressive, ripe and juicy characters and, with already well integrated tannins a good many of those will be drinkable early. Better yet, many of them will develop increasing depth and elegance as they age.

By the way - look at the Bordeaux barrel-tasting notes that come from serious critics the world over
every year and you will find remarkable concordance in the wines we have tasted. On the other hand, you will find that nearly every critic has his or her own list of Burgundy wines to review. That is largely because Bordeaux barrel-tastings are highly organized and even though there may be hundreds of producers, there is the opportunity to taste nearly all of their efforts. With Burgundy, however, with well over 1,500 producers whose wines beckon, the probability of two critics coming up with a similar tasting list is very small indeed.

Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, Clos des Ducs, Premier Cru, 1999: Full bodied, complex and with flavors that open on the palate seemingly without stop. Plenty of smooth tannins and layer after layer of cherries, wild berries, cinnamon, chocolate and even a few herbal aromas and flavors in this elegant wine. Drink now only if you must, because the wine will be at its best starting in 2005 and will then go on nicely for another decade or longer. Score 94. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, Taillepieds, Premier Cru, 1999: Medium bodied and with a deep ruby red color. Lots of black cherry, currant and berry flavors and aromas and already silky smooth tannins make this elegant red drinkable now. Better yet, hold it for another 4 - 5 years and then drink until 2015. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Arnoux, Echezeaux, 1999: Deep ruby red in color, medium to full bodied, with multi-layered berry, cherry, violet and mocha flavors and aromas, and with well smooth but still firm tannins, this exquisite wine is destined to cellar well until 2030 or later. Start drinking in 2005. Score 97. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Bachelet, Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, 1999: Light and simple but pleasant and easy to drink, especially lightly chilled and with lots of blackberries, cherries and strawberries in its aromas and flavors. Drink now. Score 84. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Bachelet, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 1999: Ripe berry flavors, light to medium body and smooth on the palate. A good wine for those just starting to know Burgundy. Score 85. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1999: Black cherry, chocolate, mocha and violet flavors and aromas all waiting to burst out, but the wine is still closed because of its youth. Let it develop for 2 - 3 more years and you will find a quietly elegant wine that will drink comfortably for 8 - 10 years longer. Score 92. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Bonnes Mares, 1999: This medium bodied, deep ruby red wine has irresistible layers of flavors and aromas of raspberries, currants, coffee, and chocolate, all with overlays of minerals and oak. A complex and delicious wine that opens beautifully in the glass and on the palate. Approachable now but the wine will cellar nicely until 2008 - 2010. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Beaune-Greves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus, 1999: Medium bodied, with expressive blackberry and cassis fruit flavors and aromas, this is the kind of tannin laden and tar-scented wine that is often described as "masculine'. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Champy, Beaune Champs-Pimont, 1999: Medium bodied and with plenty of smooth tannins, this spicy wine has lovely aromas and flavors of black cherries, plums and chocolate. Look for hints of anise and mint as the wine develops on the palate. Drinkable now but will cellar until 2005. Score 93+. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Champy, Clos St.-Denis, Grand Cru, 1999: Medium bodied but showing remarkable complexity, this wine approaches the essence of what Clos St.-Denis can produce. Deep and elegant flavors and aromas of cassis, raspberries, rose petals and violets come together in elegant ways and leave long lingering flavors on the palate. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Champy, Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru, 1999: Complex and deep, with multiple layers of cherry-berry fruits, chocolate and cinnamon, this luscious wine has just enough smooth tannins to make it drinkable now and balance good enough to ensure that it will develop nicely until 2006 - 2008. Score 92. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Comtes de Vogue, Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru, 1999: Medium to full bodied, packed with flavors of black cherries, raspberries and Oriental spices, this concentrated and delicious wine is already drinkable but its good balance make it a good choice for cellaring for 8 - 10 years longer. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine de Courcel, Pommard, Rugiens, Premier Cru, 1999: Medium to full bodied, with excellent balance and structure and good balance between tannins and fruits. Raspberries, blackberries and red currants will be found here as will hints of tea and minerals. Drinking surprisingly well now but the wine will cellar nicely until 2008. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1999: Medium to full bodied, with appealing black fruit, tobacco and smoke all in a beautiful package. Drink now - 2010. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Griotte Chambertin, 1999: Medium to full bodied, this almost amber colored wine shows elegance and intensity that will develop very well over the years. Drink 2003 - 2015. Score 90.
(Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Bonnes Mares, 1999: Medium bodied, with a deep ruby color, this complex wine has an array of flavors and aromas that include wild berries, black and red currants and freshly roasted coffee. Drink now or until 2004. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny, 1999: Medium bodied, with soft tannins and pleasant rose, cherry and violets, this is a comfortable to drink if not overly sophisticated wine. Drink now or until 2003. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, 1999: Some will find this wine a bit too light, but no one can deny that it has plenty of cherry, berry flavors and aromas and the kind of already soft tannins that make it eminently drinkable. Drink now or until 2005. Score 86. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Doman Dubois, Clos Vougeot, 1999: Elegance and luxury in a wine loaded with almost sweet blackberry and cassis all on a background of velvety smooth tannins, and with flavors that linger on and on. Hold for at least 3 more years and then drink until 2020. Score 93.

Domaine Dubois, Chambolle-Musigny, 1999: Easy to drink, with plenty of cherry, raspberry flavors and light floral aromas. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Dujac, Clos de la Roche, 1999. With still closed but rapidly opening tannins, lots of plums, currants, berries and minerals, this delicious medium and well balanced wine has layer after layer of flavors and aromas that open in the glass and on the palate. Long lingering flavors make this a specially tempting wine. At its best starting only in another 4 - 5 years and then lasting well into the second decade of the century. Score 92. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Dujac, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1999: Medium bodied and with clean, appealing cherry, blackberry and violet aromas and flavors and an almost sweet bouquet, this is a wine for comfortable drinking now - 2010. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Faiveley, Chambertin Clos de Beze, 1999: The wines from Clos de Beze are often elegant, and the '99 vintage did nothing whatever to harm that reputation. Deep ruby red, with medium to full body, this multi-layered wine opens slowly in the glass and on the palate to reveal a garden of raspberry, cherry and cranberry fruits with equally impressive aromas and flavors of spring flowers and minerals. As some of my colleagues like to put it "elegance on a grand scale". Drink starting from 2003 and then well into the second decade of the century. Score 94. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Faiveley, Echezeaux, 1999: Medium bodied and as packed with elegance, this is an almost spicy cherry-raspberry flavored and scented wine. Look for an appealing hint of sweetness in the long lingering flavors. Score 94. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Faiveley, Mercury, Clos de Myglands, Premier Cru, 1999: Complexity and elegance are the key words in this medium to full bodied wine. In addition to berries, cherries and violets, look as well here for nutty and spicy aromas and flavors as the wine develops in the glass and on the palate. Flavors that linger on and on. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Faiveley, Chambolle-Musigny D'Orveau, Premier Cru, 1999: Medium bodied, with lacey-smooth tannins, and just the right level of red cherries, raspberries and spring flowers. Drink now or until 2010. Score 87. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean Noel Gagnard, Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, 1999: Somewhat one dimensional but concentrated and with plenty of dark fruit, this is a wine for drinking now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 85. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Groffier, Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers, 1999: Full bodied and tannic, with good fruit and herbal flavors and aromas, a well balanced wine. Drinking well now but will cellar nicely until 2008 - 2010.
Score 92. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Groffier, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1999: If you want a word for this wine, that word would be "powerful".
Loaded with tannins, with high acidity and an almost pungent bouquet (look for antiseptic, almost hospital-like aromas here). The good news is that after it opens in the glass, the fruit and herbal aromas begin to make themselves nicely felt. Drink from 2003 - 2008. Score 89. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Jadot, Beaune Bressandes, Premier Cru, 1999: Medium bodied, this ruby red wine has appealing orange flares as it is held up to the light. Smooth tannins and plenty of traditional Jadot black cherries and currants, the wine is ready to drink now but will cellar nicely for 5 - 6 years longer. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot, 1999: Medium to full bodied, this dense and powerful wine has beautiful blackcurrent, wild berry and candied fruit flavors and aromas. Smooth tannins and a long finish. Drink from 2003 - 2020. Score 92.

Louis Jadot, Beaune Close des Ursules, 1999: Medium bodied and with excellent balance between silky tannins and fruits (black cherries, red currants and berries), this generous wine is drinking nicely now and should hold well for 5 - 6 years. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Jadot, Bonnes Mares, 1999: A truly fine effort from Jadot, this deep and concentrated wine has intense berry and earthy flavors. Well balanced but with still tough tannins, the wine will be at its best between 2004 - 2010. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Jadot, Chambertin Clos de Beze, 1999: Another "hit" for Jadot this year, this medium to full bodied wine has ideal balance between body, tanins and fruits, showing delicious red currants, raspberries and blackberries, all with appealing underyling mineral notes. Drink now or until 2008. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Jadot, Chambole-Musigny, Les Baudes, 1999:With aromas and flavors of currants, raspberries and blackberries, this medium bodied wine boasts just enough silky smooth tannins and a long, lingering finish. Drink now or in the next 5 - 6 years. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny, 1999: Medium bodied and full of life, with an almost thick liquid texture, this cherry, strawberry flavored wine is drinking well know and should cellar nicely until 2006 - 2008. Score 89. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Dominique Laurent, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vielles Vignes, 1999: With an attractive if not somewhat light watermelon-cherry color, this fruity light wine shows moderate tannins. Good for drinking now - 2005. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michel Magnien, Charmes-Chambertin, 1999: Medium to full bodied, this elegant ruby-purple wine shows good balance between its jam-like fruits, refreshing acidity and smooth, soft tannins. Drink now or in the next 6 - 8 years. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michel Magnien, Clos de la Roche, 1999: At least one of my colleagues has called this wine "sexy". Not sure I'd go that far but it is very tempting indeed, with already silky smooth tannins, medium to full body and almost sweet cherries and plums in its flavors and aromas. Drinking well now but the wine promises to cellar well until 2012 - 2015. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean Marc Millot, Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, 1999: Still closed and tight because of its youth, but well structured and balanced, this wine promises to open to show beautiful herbal, fruity and caramel characters. Best drinking only from 2005 - 2020. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean Marc Millot, Cotes du Nuits Villages, 1999: Deep ruby red, this medium bodied wine has plenty of black cherry, currant and herbal overtones. Firm tannins and good balance come together very well to predict a wine that will develop nicely and drink well from 2003 - 2008. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean Marc Millot, Vosne-Romanee, Premier Cru, 1999: Medium bodied, with sweet plum, cherry and caramel notes, all with a few hints of tea that come in as the wine opens. Still closed, but well balanced and with enviable length, a wine to set aside for cellaring. Drink from 2005 - 2010. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jean Marc Millot, Echezeaux Grand Cru, 1999: Medium to full bodied, with still firm tannins but already showing cherry, berry and currant aromas, all tinged with a bit of spice. Well balanced, this is a wine that will show further elegance as it ages. Drink 2004 - 2012. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Perrot-Minot, Morey St. Denis, Riotte, 1999: Cherries, wild berries, candied fruit rinds and spices in abundance in this medium bodied wine. With well-integrated and already smooth tannins and flavors that linger nicely on the palate, the wine is drinking well now but will be at its best between 2003 - 2015. Score 92. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Perrot-Minot, Chambolle-Musigny, 1999: Perhaps the best wine from this small estate in the last two decades. Medium bodied and elegant, with plenty of berry and cherry flavors and ripe, silky smooth tannins make the wine approachable now or in the next five to six years. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Misset, Chambolle-Musigny Condemennes, 1999: Light to medium bodied, with only a moderate level of tannins and somewhat skimpy on its fruits, this is a wine to drink now or in the next year or two. Score 85. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Rene Monnier, Beaune-Cent Vignes, Premier Cru, 1999: Deep ruby red towards purple in color, this concentrated wine has good ripe cherry fruits and cassis in its flavors and aromas. Rich and deep, the wine is fully ready for drinking now but should cellar nicely until 2008. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Rene Monnier, Beaune-Touissants, Premier Cru, 1999: Medium bodied, with an appealing ruby-cherry color and plenty of cherries, cranberries and a light feel of the soil, this appealing wine will drink best from 2002 - 2005. Score 89. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jacques-Frederic Mugnier, Bonnes Mares, 1999: As some wines are thought of as having masculine traits, this one can be perceived as feminine. Light to medium bodied with plenty of silky tannins and good red cherry, wild berry and light herbal aromas and flavors, the wine is drinking nicely now but will cellar well for another 6 - 8 years. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Pavelot, Savigny-Les-Beaune, 1999: Medium to full bodied, tannic and with black fruit herbs and a nice feeling of oak, this well balanced and elegant wine will be at its best between 2003 - 2010. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Perrot-Minnot, Charmes-Chambertin, 1999: Medium bodied, with smooth tannins and jam like flavors of red and black berries, chocolate and spices. Drink now or until 2010. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Jacques Prieur, Clos Vougeot, 1999: Remarkably smooth tannins and plenty of berry, plum and red currant aromas and flavors come together beautifully in this still young but already enchanting wine.
Drink from 2003 - 2015. Score 92.

Raquillet, Mercury, Les Puillets, Premier Cru, 1999: Somewhat light in body but with beautiful cherry, strawberry and raspberry flavors and aromas, this pleasant wine is meant for drinking from 2001 - 2003. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

© Daniel Rogov