If 18th century American farmers had any complaint at all, it was about the overabundance of the land. Thomas Paine, a sometimes farmer himself, wrote that "of apples and pears and berries there were so many that we knew not what to do with them".

The Americans were resourceful and, to salvage the crops and quench the great American thirst, they got into the habit of making huge quantities of cider, applejack and fruit brandies. Even then, there was a plentitude of fruits, so Americans started baking pies. By the middle of the 19th century, a family with any self-respect whatever, was expected to set out at least three different kinds of pie on special occasions or at Sunday dinner. Depending on region and season, the choice was broad enough to include pies based on apples, peaches, pears, plums, cherries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, blueberries, cranberries, gooseberries, grapes, elderberries and, in the vegetable domain, squash, pumpkin and sweet potatoes.

The pie habit, as popular in Central America and the Caribbean as in North America, has endured, and this can be seen in restaurants as well as in homes. The Airport Diner, not far from the Newark New Jersey Airport, boasts 15 different kinds of pies on any given day; Wolfie's in Miami, does even better and serves 26 various types of pie. The record, however, goes to the coffee shop at Las Vagas' Caesar's Palace, where the menu lists 74 pies and tarts.

Good American pies have never been easy to create. They must vent their steam during baking and the shortening has to have just the right proportions of lard of vegetable fat to enable the crusts to be flaky and tender and yet firm enough to be lifted and eaten by hand. The bottom crust is expected to have the same consistency and delicate browning as the top, not always an easy chore to manage. For one thing we may be grateful. With modern ovens, the task is easier today than in Tom Paine's day. In olden days, the way to test oven temperatures was to thrust one's hand into the oven and count the seconds until one had to withdraw with just a faint scream: twelve seconds meant hot, twenty-four meant moderate ...

Unless otherwise noted, each of the folllowing traditional American recipes will yield a single 9" (23 cm.) pie.

Standard Pie Crust

1 cup flour, sifted before measuring
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 cup shortening
3 Tbs. Butter

Combine the flour and salt and resift.

Combine the shortening and butter and then cut half of this mixture into the flour, working it in gently with the tips of the fingers until it has the grain of cornmeal. Cut in the remaining shortening and continue working with the fingertips until the mixture lies in pea size pieces.

Sprinkle the dough with 2 1/2 Tbsp. water and blend the water lightly into the dough. If necessary add just enough water to bind the ingredients. On a lightly floured board roll out the pastry to an 11" (26 cm.) circle and then lift into a 9" (23 cm.) flan ring or pie tin which is resting on a baking sheet. Trim the edges, prick the base with a fork and chill.

The above process will yield a crust for a standard 9" (23 cm.) pie. To make a closed pie double the quantities. Roll out half of the mixture to fill the pie tin and roll the remaining dough until it is about 11" (26 cm.) in diameter. Lay the second half on a piece of waxed paper and chill before using to close the pie. After the pie has been closed and the edges crimped, remember to cut several slits in the top crust just before baking.


To Blind Bake a Pie Crust

The worst sin of a pie is to have a soggy crust. To avoid this, the crusts of many pies should be baked "blind" before filling. This is a simple process. Simply sprinkle the pie shell lightly with water, cover with wax paper and fill the pie tin with uncooked rice. Bake in a hot oven for 10 minutes. Remove the paper and rice (the rice may be saved and later cooked according to your usual method). Reduce the oven temperature to medium and bake the pie shell for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and let cool before filling.


Apple Pie

1/2 cup white sugar
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
pinch each of salt and nutmeg
6 cups apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. lemon rind, grated
1 standard pie crust for a covered pie, with the bottom crust baked blind
sugar and cinnamon or vanilla ice cream for serving

In a small mixing bowl combine the sugar, cornstarch, nutmeg and salt. Sprinkle these over the apples. Place the apple slices in layers in the pie shell and dot them with the butter. Sprinkle over with the lemon juice, vanilla and lemon rind. If the apples appear overly dry, sprinkle with 1 - 2 Tbs. light cream or water.

Cover the pie with a top crust, prick in several places and bake in a very hot oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven heat to medium and bake until the pie is done (from 45 minutes to 1 hour, total cooking time). Remove from the oven and sprinkle over with sugar and cinnamon or serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. May be served hot or cold.


Berry Pies

2 Tbs. cornstarch
1/2 cup orange juice
1 cup sugar
4 cups fresh strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, blueberries or gooseberries (out of season
can used frozen, defrosted berries. Tinned berries can be used but will not be as rewarding)
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
2 Tbsp. butter
1 standard pie crust for a covered pie, with the bottom crust baked blind

If using tinned berries, drain well before using. Mix the cornstarch and orange juice together until smooth and then blend in the sugar. Pour this mixture over the berries and stir gently. Let stand 15 - 20 minutes.

Season the filling with the lemon juice and dot with butter. Cover the pie with a top crust, prick in several places and bake in an oven that has been preheated to very hot. After 10 minutes reduce the oven heat to medium and bake until the pie is done (40 - 45 minutes for fresh berries and half that time for tinned). May be served hot or cold.


Lemon Meringue Pie

1 cup sugar
6 Tbsp. cornstarch
2 cups milk
1/8 tsp. salt
3 egg yolks, beaten
3 Tbsp. butter
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 tsp. lemon rind, grated
1 pie crust, baked blind and refrigerated
1 recipe for meringue (following)

In the top of a double boiler combine the sugar, cornstarch and salt and to this gradually add the milk. Cook, stirring regularly over but not in hot water until the mixture thickens (8 - 12 minutes). Cover and cook for 10 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat.

In a small mixing bowl pour a small amount of the mixture over the egg yolks, beat together and return to the double boiler. Continue to cook above but not in hot water for about 5 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and beat in the butter, lemon juice and lemon rind. When cool pour the mixture into the cold pie shell. Cover with the meringue and bake in a low oven for 15minutes.


Meringue

6 egg whites
1 1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
generous pinch of salt
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups sugar

In a large bowl combine the egg whites, cream of tartar, salt and vanilla extract and beat until the eggs form soft peaks. Add 3/4 cup of the sugar, 2 - 3 tbs at a time, and continue beating until the meringue is very thick and stiff. Fold in the remaining sugar. Spread on the pie as directed.

Note: To make meringue cookies, with a pastry bag force out ovals about 2 1/2" (6 cm) long on a well buttered cookie sheet. Spread the ovals at least 2" (5 cm.) apart and bake in a slow oven for 20 - 30 minutes. Let cool. Serve as is or with ice cream and sweetened whipped cream.


Pecan Pie

1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed
1/4 cup butter
3 eggs
1 1/2 cups pecans, broken
1/2 Tbsp. corn syrup or light molasses
1 Tbsp. rum
1/2 tsp. salt
1 standard pie crust, baked blind
sweetened whipped cream for serving (optional)

Cream together the sugar and butter and into these beat in the eggs one at a time. Stir in the nuts, syrup, rum and salt and with this mixture fill the pie shell. Bake in a medium hot oven until the pie is done (about 35 - 45 minutes. To test, insert a toothpick in the center of the pie. When the toothpick comes out clean the pie is done). Serve warm or cold, with or without sweetened whipped cream.


Pineapple Pie
A recipe from Jamaica

1 standard pie crust for a covered pie
1 large fresh pineapple, peeled and cut in small chunks (may use tinned chunk pineapple, well drained)
1/4 kilo sugar
3 Tbsp. flour
1/2 tsp. grated nutmeg
pinch each of cinnamon and salt
3 Tbsp. butter
1/2 cup sweet cream for whipping
1/4 cup shredded coconut

With half of the pie crust, line the pie tin. Roll out the remaining half to prepare the cover for the pie. Chill both halves.

In a saucepan combine the pineapple, sugar, flour, nutmeg, cinnamon and salt and cook over a low flame, stirring, until the mixture thickens. Remove from the flame and stir in the butter. If the mixture is overly thick add 1 - 2 Tbsp. warm water. Let cool.

After the filling has cooled pour it into the lined pie tin. Cover with the second half of the pastry, tucking the overhanging portion in and sealing by dampening the edges and crimping between two fingers. Make a slit in the top of the pie and flute the edges. Bake in a hot oven for 10 minutes and then reduce the oven temperature to medium-hot and bake until the crust is delicately browned (about 30 minutes longer).

Whip the sweet cream until it is thick and then gently fold in the coconut meat. Serve the cream with the pie which may be eaten warm or cold.


Banana Rum Ice-Cream Pie
A recipe from Puerto Rico

1 recipe banana rum ice cream (see following recipe)
1 recipe for standard pie crust baked blind and then chilled
3 egg whites
pinch each of salt and cream of tartar
1/2 cup extra fine sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract

Pour the ice cream mixture into the cooled flan ring or pie tin, cover with waxed paper and freeze through.

For the topping beat together the egg whites, salt and cream of tartar until very stiff. Add the sugar and vanilla slowly, beating constantly. Spread this meringue on top of the frozen ice cream and bake in a very hot oven just until the meringue is delicately browned (about 4 - 5 minutes).


Banana Rum Ice Cream For Pie Filling
1/2 cup rum
pinch of salt
2 ripe bananas, mashed
1 egg white, beaten stiff
1 cup each milk and sweet cream
1 or 2 eggs, beaten stiff

In a mixing bowl blend together the rum, salt and bananas. Fold in the egg white and then slowly stir in the milk and cream. Mix slowly but carefully. Pour into a freezing tray and place in the freezer until half frozen. Remove, stir well and then pour into the pie shell.


Coconut Cream Pie

1 recipe for standard pie dough, baked blind, chilled and then pricked with a fork several times
1 1/4 cups hot milk
2/3 cup extra fine sugar
pinch each of salt and nutmeg
1/2 cup coconut, grated finely
1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
3 egg yolks, beaten lightly
3 egg whites
pinch of cream of tartar

In a mixing bowl combine the milk, 1/4 cup of the sugar, salt, nutmeg, coconut and 1 tsp. of the vanilla extract. Stir in the egg yolks until the mixture is blended thoroughly. Pour the mixture into the pie shell and bake in a very hot oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to medium-hot and continue baking until the filling has set (about 30 - 40 minutes longer). Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

While the pie is cooling, beat the egg whites together with the cream of tartar until stiff. Add the remaining sugar and vanilla slowly, beating constantly. When the pie has cooled spread the topping over and bake in a medium-hot oven until the topping is lightly browned (12 - 15 minutes). Serve hot or cold.

© Daniel Rogov