That Californians are just a bit crazy is in now way better demonstrated than in the phenomenon of the cult wines that they are now in love with. The problem with the cult wines is not that they are not good. Some are superb, but with the wines of Screaming Eagle now commanding prices of up to $1,400 per bottle and those of Bryant Family Vineyard, Harlan Estate, Arajua and Dala Valley Maya costing anywhere from $250 - 750, only insane Californians seem to be buying them.

Considering that an increasing number of people are travelling to visit California wine country, it would be silly not to buy some good wines when you are there. Many good and even excellent California wines are now available, so when travelling in California wine country it makes good sense to purchase wines that are not only excellent but those that are not available near where you live. Following are tasting notes on ten wines well worth searching for. Wines earning scores of 96-100 are truly great and those that earned scores of between 90 - 95 are exceptional in every way.

Joseph Phelps Insignia, Napa Valley, 1997: Even though this red wine is a typical Bordeaux Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc), no one will think that it came from anywhere but California. Perhaps the best Insignia ever made and one of the best wines ever made in California, this full bodied wine has a deep amber color and contains layer after layer of aromas and flavors that seem to burst forth on the palate as it sits in the mouth. Look especially for currants, black cherries, wild berries and a collection of herbs and spices including tea, sage, ginger and, to add charm, hints of dark chocolate. With flavors that linger on and on on the palate, this truly superb wine can be approached now but will be at its best only in another three years, and even then continue to develop in the bottle for another decade or more. Price in the United States, about $125. Score: 97.

Dolce, Late Harvest Napa Valley, 1997: Made in a small winery owned by the partners of Napa Valley's Far Niente, this is one of the few truly great sweet American wines. Made from a combination of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes that have been attacked by botrytis cinerea (the grapes and noble rot that helps make the great wines of Sauternes and Barsac), this full bodied, thick and elegant wine is loaded with honeyed fruits, apricots, peach, orange and vanilla flavors all of which come together on the palate. Intense and elegant the wine can be drunk now or in the next 10 - 15 years. About $90 for 375 ml. bottles. Score 96+.

E & J Gallo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Northern Sonoma, 1996: One of Gallo's very best, this rich and concentrated wine will stand up against the very best that California has to offer. With traditional Cabernet aromas and flavors and plenty of silky smooth tannins, this full bodied wine goes well beyond the oak to reveal luscious flavors and aromas of black currants, black cherries and even hints of hot asphalt. Let the wine linger on the palate and be surprised as it reveals flavors of sage, rosemary and oregano. Elegant and long, the wine is ready to drink now but will last nicely in the bottle for another 6 - 8 years. Score 95+.

Pahlmeyer, 1995: This is what I call an "oh wow" wines. You take a first, second or third sip and every time you do the wine so delights and amazes that you're tempted to call out "oh wow"!! A very Bordeaux blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot), but a very California wine. Loaded with blackberries, plums, black cherries and a host of spices and herbs (look for anise, sage and rosemary). To add to its charms, there are mineral and tobacco aromas and flavors. Deep, elegant and absolutely delicious, with flavors that linger on and on, seemingly without end. Drink now or until 2008- 2010. Score 95.

Robert Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, 1997: Depending on how you hold this wine up to the light you will see it as garnet red or royal purple, but whatever you are seeing, its flavors and textures will astonish in their depth and complexity. An abundance of currants and red berries, all coming together with mineral, herbal (look especially for rosemary and sage) and just the right touches of tobacco and leather. Full bodied, deeply tannic and marvelously well balanced. Ready now but will develop very nicely in the bottle for another decade or longer. About $50. Score 95.

Caymus, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Special Selection 1997: Full bodied and exquisitely well balanced, with black and red currants, black cherry, coffee and even a hint of cigar tobacco in its aromas and flavors, and long, even somewhat sweet flavors that linger on and on, this superbly made wine is fully ready for drinking now but will last and develop nicely for another 6 - 10 years. About $150. Score 95.

Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Special Reserve, 1996: This deep, full-bodied and elegant wine is loaded with layer after layer of berry, cherry, plum, spice and oak flavors and aromas. With flavors that linger on and on and impeccable balance, this is a wine to follow as it continues to develop in the bottle for the next five or six years. What amazes some about this beautiful wine is that it is kosher! About $35.00 Score 94.

Conn Creek, Anthology, Napa Valley, 1998: A well-crafted California Cabernet blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot that cannot help but please. Loaded with black currant, plum and black cherry aromas and flavors, this medium to full bodied wine has excellent balance between its smooth tannins, its acids and its fruits. A wine that can be approached even now but will be at its best only in another 10 - 12 years, and well worth the asking price of about $50 per bottle. Score 93.

Far Niente, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1997: Whether Far Niente qualifies as one of the "cult wineries" of California's Napa Valley is open to speculation, but their Cabernets are consistently excellent and demand high (but thankfully not outrageously high) prices. Although still young, the '97 already shows signs of developing very nicely indeed. Even now the wine is complex and deep, with lots of spicy cherry, black currants, anise in its flavors and a lovely cigar-box and herbal touch to its bouquet. Ideal now for drinking with heavy cuts of beef such as cotes de Boeuf, but if you do insist on drinking it now let it open in the glass for at least 15 minutes. In a few years, as its tannins recede, the wine will be an equally good match to grilled fish or seafood. The wine will be at its best only in another 2 - 3 years and then should live comfortably until 2010. About $110. Score 92.

Beringer, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, 1996: After 9 months sur lie (that is to say, with the wine in contact with the yeast and other sediments that fall to the bottom of the oak barrels during and after fermentation), this remarkably rich wine is remarkably full bodied and full of flavors of pears, citrus and nuts all with delicious hints of buttery nuts and vanilla. Delicious now but the wine will store nicely for 3 - 4 years longer. About $45 Score 92.

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© Daniel Rogov