Someone is always promising me that "spring is not far away", but my aging (some might say ancient) bones keep telling me that spring is further away than we are told. Whatever, and regardless of age, there may be no better way to take the chill out of our bones or to close out a luxurious dinner than with a flaming Cafe Brulot, an after dinner drink made famous in the 1920s at Brennan's Restaurant in New Orleans. Making this delicious beverage takes a bit of effort, but those who value sophistication will find that effort well worth while.

1 stick cinnamon, about 5 - 6 cm. Long
12 whole cloves the thinly pared
rind of 2 oranges, cut into thin slivers
the thinly pared rind of 2 lemons, cut into thin slivers
6 sugar cubes
1 cup brandy (for heaven's sake, use good brandy)
1/ 4 cup Curacao or other orange liqueur
8 cups (about 1 liter) of strong black coffee (ideally made by the filter method)

In a chafing dish, mash the cinnamon, cloves, orange rind, lemon rind and sugar lumps together using a ladle. In a small pan heat the brandy and Curacao lightly and then pour these into the chaffing dish. Ignite the brandy, taking care because the flame may flare up, and mix until the sugar is dissolved. Gradually add the black coffee and continue mixing until the flame flickers out. Serve in goblets, mugs or cups. (Serves 10 - 12.)

© Daniel Rogov