Between 1850 and 1878, Celestine Benditte-Strauss was the owner of the prestigious and popular Restaurant Cercle in Lyon. Even though Paris was then considered the culinary capital of Europe, the food at the Cercle was so highly revered that many gastronomes regularly make the trip to Lyon to eat there. Among those who came regularly to her restaurant were Napoleon III, Czar Nicholas I of Russia and composer Gioacchino Rossini. Critic and author Charles-Augustin Sainte-Beuve was so impressed with the meals he ate here that he wrote that "to dine at the Cercle is to sample immortality".

Even though Benditte-Strauss was the daughter of the Chief Rabbi of Lyon, her restaurant served traditional and thus non-kosher French cuisine. What most of her clients never realized was that because their hostess adhered to the laws of kashrut, she never tasted any of the dishes that were prepared at her restaurant. She did, however, have a passion for fresh pineapple, and whenever she became hungry while she was at the restaurant, the chef would slice a fresh pineapple for her. Inspired by her talents as a restaurateur, Roger Veldam, the chef at the Cercle dedicated several dishes to her. The following recipe, which is happily kosher, has become a classic among Jewish and non-Jewish families in Lyon.

Pineapple Fritters a la Celestine

1 large fresh pineapple or 1 large can pineapple, in slices sugar as required
about 1/4 cup kirsch liqueur
2 1/4 cups flour, sifted
2/3 cup beer
1 Tbsp. each vegetable oil and brandy
pinch of salt
2 egg whites, beaten stiff
about 1 cup thick apricot jam
deep oil for frying

Dip the pineapple slices in sugar and then sprinkle them generously with the kirsch. Let the slices stand in a warm place for steep 30 - 40 minutes.

Make a batter by mixing together the flour, beer, oil and brandy with 1 cup of warm water. Add the salt and just before frying the fritters, fold in the beaten egg whites.

Dry the pineapple slices on absorbent toweling, coat them with a thin layer of the apricot jam and put them together in pairs. Dip each pair into the batter and then fry in hot, deep oil until golden brown on both sides. Serve hot. (Serves 4 - 6).

© Daniel Rogov