The mere mention of the names of Gevrey and Chambertin is enough to bring beads of perspiration to the forehead of those devoted lovers of Bordeaux wines, many of whom have not the foggiest idea of how Burgundy wines are categorized. Its all rather simple in this case, however, for although Gevrey-Chambertin may be a small town its vineyards produce eight of the twenty-three grands crus wines of the Cote de Nuits. The eight grands crus wines are Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos de Beze, Chapelle-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Latricieres-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin and Rouchottes-Chambertin. Many (including this critic) agree that the two very best of the wines are Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Beze. Most also agree that the others also frequently approach or attain greatness. As in the case of all great Burgundy reds, these wines are made entirely from Pinot Noir grapes.

The notes below are the result of three separate sets of tasting, one each in May and October 2001, one each in February and March of 2002. Where available, dollar prices are given for the wines as they are selling at this writing.

1995

Laurent, Chambertin, 1995: Deep and concentrated, this full bodied wine has excellent black cherry, plum, currant and coffee aromas, just enough feeling of the oak, and firm but already moderating tannins. Deep royal purple in color and with excellent balance the wine is still too young. Give it time however and you will not be at all disappointed. Drink 2004 - 2020. Score 94. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Laurent, Charmes Chambertin, 1995: Medium to full bodied, this deep ruby towards purple wine has beautiful almost sweet ripe fruit aromas all with good spice, spring flower and vanilla hints. Complex and elegant, the wine should cellar nicely until 2020. Score 92. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Laurent, Chambertin Clos de Beze, 1995: Full bodied and compact with depth and breadth, this deep ruby toward purple wine has lots of plum, black cherry, berry fruits along with delightful citrus aromas and flavors. With just the right touch of earthiness this complex wine needs time to develop and when it does it will be elegant indeed. Drink 2004 - 2015. Score 92. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Laurent, Mazis Chambertin, Cuvee A, 1995: Full bodied and with a country-style chunkiness and plenty of tannins, all coming together beautifully with wild berries, currants and hints of spices.
Delicious now but the wine should cellar well until 2010 - 2012. Score 91. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin, Grand Cru, 1995: From year to year, this Rousseau wine reminds me of the nursery rhyme - for when it's good, its very, very good and when its bad, its horrid. Happily, this is one of the good ones. Full enough in body to appear chewy, and with good oak, cherry, plum and herbal notes, this firm and tannic Pinot Noir will make for good drinking now or in the next 2 years. About $180 in the U.S.A.. Score 91. (Tasted 22 May 2001)

1996

Louis Jadot, Chambertin, Grand Cru, 1996: Deep royal purple in color, and loaded with currants, red and black berries, flinty and mineral aromas and flavors, this full bodied wine remains closed but promises to open to reveal its elegance and intensity. A wine to cellar!!! Best from 2008 - 2020. Score 97. (Special Jadot tasting Feb 2002)

Laurent, Chambertin, Clos de Beze, 1996: Full bodied and with an abundance of smooth tannins this luxurious wine offers rich flavors and aromas of berries, coffee and toasty oak, all with appealing overlays of earthiness and leather. Drink now - 2020. About $315 in the U.S.A. Score 96. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Jadot, Chambertin, Chapelle, 1996: Full bodied, concentrated and intense, this deep ruby towards royal purple colored wine offers a remarkable mouthful of currant, berry, herbal, chocolate and spice flavors and aromas when it is first sipped. Let it open on the palate to reveal appealing herbaceous and chocolate overtones. With already smooth tannins the wine is approachable now but will be at its best only from 2004 and should then cellar nicely until 2010- 2012. About $185 in the U.S.A. Score 93. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Hubert Lignier, Charmes Chambertin, 1996: Medium to full bodied, this very well balanced and seductive wine has plenty of tannins, oak and fruits, all on a beautiful frame. Look for strawberries, wild berries, black cherries and just the right hints of yeast and toasted oak here. Generous and sensual, a wine that can be enjoyed now or cellared comfortably until 2010 or longer. About $325 in the U.S.A. Score 93. (Tasted 10 Feb 2002)

Drouhin, Chambertin Close de Beze, Laroze, 1996: Medium to full bodied, this intense and delicious wine offers ample black berry, anise, vanilla and oak flavors and aromas, all in a well balanced frame.
Flavors that linger nicely, the wine is drinking nicely now and should cellar well until 2008 - 2010. About $240 in the U.S.A. Score 92. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Laurent, Gevrey Chambertin, Clos St. Jacques, 1996: Deep cherry red to royal purple in color, this full bodied, complex and very well balanced wine offers up ample flavors and aromas of wild berries, earthiness and minerals. With flavors that open on the palate and linger beautifully the wine will be at its best from 2004 - 2015 or longer. About $85 in the U.S.A. Score 92. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Laurent, Gevrey Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, 1996: Full bodied and tannic but very finely tuned and already showing delicious plum, black cherry, mocha and smoky toast aromas and flavors, this generous wine will be at its best from 2003 - 2015 or longer. About $70 in the U.S.A. Score 91. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru, Clos. St. Jacques, 1996: Surprisingly firm tannins for a Pinot Noir, but that is no drawback to this delicious wine that opens beautifully in the glass. In addition to berry, cherry and mineral aromas and flavors look as well for hints of mocha, vanilla and yeast, all lingering nicely on the palate. Fully ready to drink now. .About $190 in the U.S.A. Score 90. (Tasted 22 May 2001)

Michel Picard, Gevrey Chambertin, 1996: Full bodied and with good stucture, this somewhat rustic wine has ripe tannins, a spicy-oaky base and plenty of cherries and violets in its aromas to make it charming. Concentrated and with with still firm tannins, the wine will begin to show its maximum charms only in another 2 - 3 years. About $250 in the U.S.A. Score 89. (Tasted 15 Mar 2000)

Laurent, Mazis Chambertin, 1996: Remarkably dense in color, this full bodied wine and still very tannic wine will reveal plum, cassis and berry flavors as it opens. Give this one time though and drink starting in 2005. The wine, which promises to open as it develops, should cellar nicely until 2015 - 2020. Score 89. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

1997

Laurent, Chambertin, Clos de Beze 1997: Full bodied and powerful but remarkably elegant with delicious berry, cherry, vanilla and coffee aromas and flavors that open in layer after layer on the palate. Soft tannins make the wine accessible for early drinking but look forward to cellaring until 2025 - 2030. About $300 in the U.S.A. Score 96. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Louis Jadot, Chambertin, Clos de Beze, 1997: Medium to full bodied, with plenty of plum, blackberry and other black fruit aromas and smooth, well balanced tannins, this elegant royal purple wine has flavors that linger beautifully. Drink 2005 - 2015. Score 94. (Special Jadot tasting Feb 2002)

Laurent, Mazis Chambertin, 1997: Just beginning to show signs of opening now, this beautifully structured and well balanced wine is starting to show beautiful red currant, blackberry and wild berry flavors and aromas. Full bodied and with an aftertaste that makes one think of candied cherries, this is a winethat will age with grace and beauty. Hold until 2005 and then look forward to good cellaring until 2025 or longer. Aboug $135 in the U.S.A. Score 94. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Hubert Lignier, Gevrey Chambertin, 1997: Deep ruby towards garnet in color, this full bodied and already elegant wine has an abundance of cassis, raspberry and other red fruits, all of which come together on a frame of smooth tannins and plenty of natural acids. Long lingering flavors here. Drink now - 2020. About $60 in the U.S.A. Score 94. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Laurent, Charmes Chambertin, 1997: With a subtle ruby color, this full bodied wine has plenty of tannins, all smooth and well integrated that balance beautifully with toasted oak, red currant wild berry and spicy flavors. The wine is enjoyable now but as it continues to develop look for the color to darken somewhat and for sweet wood and coffee flavors to blossom forth. Ripe and delicious, a beautifully made Charmes! Drink now - 2008. About $120 in the U.S.A. Score 93. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Dujac, Charmes Chambertin, 1997: Deep ruby towards purple in color, this full bodied and very well made wine has ample plum, black cherry and red currant flavors, all with beautiful spices on the aftertaste. Delicious and elegant, the wine is drinking nicely now and should cellar well until the end of the decade or longer. About $100 in the U.S.A. Score 92. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Laurent, Gevrey Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, 1997: Medium to full bodied, with a deep ruby color and lots of spices overlaying cherry, blueberry and raspberry aromas and flavors. Well balanced and with a silky smooth texture, the wine is drinking nicely now and should cellar well until the end of the decade. Score 92.

1998

Louis Jadot, Clos de Beze, Grand Cru, 1998: Depending on the way you view this one, you may interpret the color of this wine as violet, red or purple. Medium to full bodied, with ample black fruit, vanilla, toasted bread and hints of eucalyptus and earthiness, this rich wine is still quite closed, with the tannins still having far too strong a bite. Have no fear though, for with excellent balance and structure this is a wine that will show its elegance only after a few more years. Best from 2005 - 2012. Score 95. (Special Jadot tasting Feb 2002)

Faiveley, Chambertin, Clos de Beze, 1998: Medium to full bodied and with still firm tannins and lots of oak but all of this on a well balanced body in which you will find strawberry, black cherry and spicy-liquorice notes. Look for an enticing lightly bitter note that creeps in on the long finish. Drink 2005 - 2020. Score 95. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Faiveley, Mazis Chambertin, 1998: Garnet red in color, this full bodied wine opens beautifully in the glass (yes, despite its youth) to reveal a delicious melange of wild berry, cherries, coffee and spices.
So thick in texture you might think that cream had been added, but with remarkably smooth tannins and great elegance. About $125 in the U.S.A. Drink2003 - 2015 or longer. Score 94. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

1999

Domaine Faiveley, Chambertin Clos de Beze, 1999: The wines from Clos de Beze are often elegant, and the '99 vintage did nothing whatever to harm that reputation. Deep ruby red, with medium to full body, this multi-layered wine opens slowly in the glass and on the palate to reveal a garden of raspberry, cherry and cranberry fruits with equally impressive aromas and flavors of spring flowers and minerals. As some of my colleagues like to put it "elegance on a grand scale". Drink starting from 2003 and then well into the second decade of the century. Score 94. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Dujac, Gevrey Chambertin Aux Combottes, 1999: Deep and lively ruby red in color, this medium bodied and complex red is going to need some time before drinking. Don't let that stop you though, for when it does open it is going to reveal a remarkable nose of cherry, leather, Belgian chocolate, all together with what will become smoother and more integrated tannins. Difficult to enjoy now, but give it time to develop its elegance. About $135 in the U.S.A. Drink 2005 and then until 2020 - 2025. Score 94. (Tasted 15 Mar 2002)

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1999: Black cherry, chocolate, mocha and violet flavors and aromas all waiting to burst out, but the wine is still closed because of its youth. Let it develop for 2 - 3 more years and you will find a quietly elegant wine that will drink comfortably for 8 - 10 years longer. Score 92. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1999: Medium to full bodied, with appealing black fruit, tobacco and smoke all in a beautiful package. Drink now - 2010. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Domaine Dujac, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1999: Medium bodied and with clean, appealing cherry, blackberry and violet aromas and flavors and an almost sweet bouquet, this is a wine for comfortable drinking now - 2010. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michel Magnien, Charmes-Chambertin, 1999: Medium to full bodied, this elegant ruby-purple wine shows good balance between its jam-like fruits, refreshing acidity and smooth, soft tannins. Drink now or in the next 6 - 8 years. Score 91. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Perrot-Minnot, Charmes-Chambertin, 1999: Medium bodied, with smooth tannins and jam like flavors of red and black berries, chocolate and spices. Drink now or until 2010. Score 90. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Jadot, Chambertin Clos de Beze, 1999: Another "hit" for Jadot this year, this medium to full bodied wine has ideal balance between body, tanins and fruits, showing delicious red currants, raspberries and blackberries, all with appealing underyling mineral notes. Drink now or until 2008. Score 90. (Special Jadot tasting Feb 2002)

Joseph Drouhin, Griotte Chambertin, 1999: Medium to full bodied, this almost amber colored wine shows elegance and intensity that will develop very well over the years. Drink 2003 - 2015. Score 90.
(Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Groffier, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1999: If you want a word for this wine, that word would be "powerful".
Loaded with tannins, with high acidity and an almost pungent bouquet (look for antiseptic, almost hospital-like aromas here). The good news is that after it opens in the glass, the fruit and herbal aromas begin to make themselves nicely felt. Drink from 2003 - 2008. Score 89. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Dominique Laurent, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vielles Vignes, 1999: With an attractive if not somewhat light watermelon-cherry color, this fruity light wine shows moderate tannins. Good for drinking now - 2005. Score 88. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

© Daniel Rogov