Despite the commercials on American television, most tuna fish are not named Charley. Nor are tuna fish born in or shaped like small cans. The albacore tuna, probably the tastiest and most nutritious of its species, swims in Pacific coastal waters of North and Central America. Other species, some of which weigh more than 60 kilos at maturity, are found in the warm waters of the Atlantic and in the Caribbean.

What surprises many is that tuna also inhabit the Mediterranean. Called thonine by the French, Italians and Spanish, these fish are considerably smaller than American varieties, and rarely grow to more than a meter in length. Found in local waters only from May to October, these small tunas are highly prized in Europe

Fresh tuna costs considerably more than the tinned variety. The fact is, however, that tunas that have been cooked fresh taste infinitely better than their tinned cousins. Available in better fish markets, fresh tuna can be purchased whole or in steaks. The salad recipes that follow can be made with either tinned or fresh fish. If using fresh fish, poach it, remove the skin and flake it before using in the salads. The recipes for steaks rely on fresh fish. If fresh tuna is unavailable, one can substitute grouper with no loss in charm to any of these recipes.

Beans with Tuna
An Italian recipe

1 can cannellini or other white beans, drained
1 tin tuna fish, drained
2 spring onions, chopped coarsely
4 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
juice of 2 large lemons
pinch of oregano
salt and black pepper to taste
lemon wedges and green olives for garnish

Combine the beans, spring onions, oil and lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Place on a serving platter and break the tuna into small chunks arranged on the beans. Sprinkle with the oregano and parsley. Serve at room temperature garnished with lemon wedges and olives. (Serves 4 - 6).

Pasta with Tuna Sauce
Adapted from a recipe by Giuliano Bugialli

1 small onion, chopped very finely
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup very soft tomatoes (may used tinned)
1 tin tuna in oil
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 kilo shells, macherroni or other short shaped pasta

In a flameproof terracotta or enameled saucepan heat the oil and in this saute the onion just until golden. Add the tomatoes and simmer until the liquids have evaporated.

Drain the tuna and transfer to the saucepan, breaking the tuna up with a fork and mixing well. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste and simmer gently for 8 - 10 minutes, stirring well. Remove from the flame.

While the sauce is simmering, cook the pasta in the usual way until they are al dente. Drain and place in a serving bowl, pour over the sauce, toss well and serve piping hot. (Serves 4).

Catalan Salad
A traditional Spanish dish

For the sauce:
1 cup olive oi
l 6 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. parsley chopped finely
1 Tbsp. parmesan cheese, grated
1 tsp. Dijon style mustard
1 clove garlic, chopped finely
1/4 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. basil
1/4 tsp. thyme
1/4 tsp. horseradish
pinch or two of marjoram
salt and pepper

For the salad:
4 large potatoes
24 small green olives, pitted
1 onion, sliced thinly
1 green pepper, sliced in rings
1 tin tuna, drained
salt and pepper to taste
2 hard boiled eggs, quartered
2 ripe tomatoes, cut in eighths

Make the salad dressing by beating together all the ingredients, ideally in a blender of food processor, until smooth and creamy. (Note: This dressing also goes well with nearly any green salad).

Boil the potatoes in salted water until they are tender. Cool them slightly, peel and cut into thin slices. Spread 2 Tbsp. of the salad dressing in a flat-bottomed bowl. Add one layer of the potatoes, some of the olives, some sliced onion and pepper and part of the tuna, separated into chunks. Sprinkle well with salt and pepper. Coat this layer with some of the dressing. Continue building layers, coating each layer with dressing until all of the ingredients have been used, except 3 Tbsp. of the dressing. Arrange the egg and tomato wedges on top of the salad and coat them with the remaining dressing. Refrigerate the salad for up to 8 hours (but not longer) before serving. (Serves 4 - 6)

Tuna-Mayonnaise Salad

3 medium potatoes
1 can tuna, drained
1 1/2 tsp. vinegar
1 1/2 tsp. onion, grated
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 tsp. capers
1 hard boiled egg, chopped finely
salt
3/4 cup mayonnaise (ideally homemade)
1 pimiento, cut into strips

Boil the potatoes in salted water until they are tender. Cool them slightly, peel and cut into cubes. Place the tuna in a large bowl, separating it into chunks. Stir in the vinegar, onion, parsley and capers. Add the potatoes and the chopped egg and blend together gently with a rubber spatula. Season with salt to taste. Let stand 30 minutes - 1 hour at room temperature or refrigerated.

Gently fold in the mayonnaise. Shape the salad into a dome on a flat plate and decorate with pimento strips. (Serves 4 - 6).

Tuna Salad with Asparagus

For the tuna:
1 tin tuna, with its oil
2 tsp. vinegar
2 tsp. onion, chopped very finely
1 tsp. capers, chopped
2 tsp. parsley, chopped very finely
salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:
4 Tbsp. olive oil
8 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
1 head lettuce, torn in pieces
4 tomatoes, cut in eighths
2 medium onions, sliced thinly
12 - 16 white asparagus, cut in half crosswise
24 green olives, pitted

Prepare the tuna by place the tuna in a bowl and flake with a fork. Stir in the remaining ingredients and refrigerate overnight.

In a small bowl blend together the oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. In a salad bowl gently mix together the lettuce, tomato, onion, tuna, asparagus and olives. Pour over as much of the vinaigrette sauce as desired and serve toss gently. Serve the remaining sauce separately (Serves 6 - 8).

Tuna Provencale
A French recipe

2 Tbsp. olive oil
4 medium tuna steaks
4 spring onions, green parts only, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
4 large tomatoes, skinned and chopped
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 2 sprigs of parsley, one sprig of thyme and 1 bay leaf
3/4 cup red wine
3/4 cup water
1 anchovy fillet, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
1 Tbsp. butter
2 tsp. flour
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped

In a large flameproof casserole dish heat the oil. Add the tuna steaks and fry on both sides until golden. Remove the steaks from the dish and set aside. To the casserole, add the spring onions and garlic and saute until soft. Drain off the excess oil and then add the tomatoes, bouquet garni, wine, stock and anchovy to the dish. Place the tuna on top of the vegetables and season well.

Cover and cook for 1/2 hour over a low flame. Remove the bouquet garni and tuna, setting the tuna aside to keep warm. Blend the butter and flour together, put the casserole over a medium heat and stir in small pieces of the butter mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens. Return the tuna to the casserole, sprinkle over with the parsley and serve at once. (Serves 4).

Tuna with Onions
A Basque recipe

2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 kilo onions, sliced thinly
1 Tbsp. wine vinegar
1 sprig of lemon grass or lemon thyme, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and pepper to taste
6 tuna steaks
1 Tbsp. parsley

Heat the olive oil in a flameproof casserole and add the onions. Cover tightly and cook over lowest possible heat for 40 minutes without lifting the lid. Add the vinegar, thyme and garlic and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Bury the tuna in the onions, replace the casserole lid and cook for 15 - 20 minutes over a very gentle heat. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve immediately. (Serves 4)

© Daniel Rogov