I often write about the pleasure inherent in attending vertical tastings but few of the tastings I have ever attended afforded as much joy as the one to which I was invited by the owner of an exquisite private cellar to sample the wines of Chateau d'Yquem starting with the mythical vintage of 1921.
Following are the notes from that tasting.

Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1921: Now bright amber in color, but still with deep orange overtones, this remains one of the greatest wines ever produced in Sauternes. Apricot flavors now dominate but these beautifully balanced by spicy vanilla, pear, and mocha flavors and aromas. Unabashedly sweet, thick and dense but with exquisite balance and structure, and aftertastes that go on seemingly without end, this is probably one of the very few wines I can drink these days that is older than I but has a good chance of outliving me. Score (as it has been over six experiences since I first tasted this wine in 1955) 100. (Tasted in Magnum format, Yquem Vertical, Jan 2003)

Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1937: Fully mature but still going strong, this full bodied, deep burnished gold wine, almost screams out "botrytis". Long and sweet with apricot, citrus, caramel, coffee and generous yeasty and toasted bread on the unbelievably long finish, this deep and complex wine continues to show great elegance. Don't count on cellaring this one past 2010 but considering that the wine will then be celebrating its 73rd birthday, that is no sin whatsoever. Score 94. (Tasted in Magnum format, Yquem Vertical, Jan 2003)

Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1945: Medium to full bodied but remarkably rich and concentrated, with abundant botrytis and honeyed-caramel sweetness on a background of tropical fruits, dried citrus and apricots, biscotti, the wine has a notably long finish on which delicious spicy fruits make themselves felt very, very nicely indeed. Since this wine was released nearly everyone (this writer included) predicted that no matter how superb it was, it would not survive it's fiftieth birthday. We were all wrong, for although quite mature and already burnished gold towards amber in color, this Yquem goes on and on, each year rebuilding its own myth. Drink now until the end of the decade. Score 95. (Yquem Vertical, Jan 2003)

Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1947: One of the very best Yquem wines ever, and one very possibly destined to celebrate its centennial still going strong. Full bodied, with a generous, still almost intense botrytis nose along with flavors and aromas of candied citrus, tropical fruits and sweet caramel, all of which linger beautifully, this is one of the very best and certainly most elegant Yquems ever. Drinking beautifully now, the wine has a good chance of celebrating its centennial year. Score 97. (Yquem Vertical, Jan 2003)

Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1959: Deep golden towards amber, this fully mature and moderately honeyed full bodied wine is now showing complex flavors and aromas that seem to change on the palate, one moment deeply sweet, the next appealingly spicy, but always with elegant flavors and aromas of dried apricots, caramel, figs. Look as well for orange blossom and nutty aromas and flavors on the long finish. Drining beautifully now, the wine promises to cellar comfortably until 2012 - 2015. Score 97. (Yquem Vertical, Jan 2003)

Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1967: This is the wine that one well known magazine gave 81 points in 1993 and later, in 1999, 100 points. At least I have not been that fickle, having awarded the wine scores never lower than 98 in four separate earlier tastings. Almost as good as the fabled 1921 wine, this medium to full bodied Yquem offers up classic elegance, for as intense and muscular as it remains there is such exquisite balance and structure here that the wine seems almost light on the palate. Bunished gold towards amber in color, this superb, unabashedly sweet wine offers up complex aromas and flavors of pineapples, kiwis and honey on first attack, these yielding to summer fruits, vanilla and coconut, all on a long, long finish. Score 98. (Yquem Vertical, Jan 2003)

Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1971: Lots of botrytis in this concentrated, full bodied wine. A somewhat subdued nose when first poured but this opening within twenty minutes to reveal a truly elegant and delicious Yquem with tropical fruits, figs, and caramel flavors and aromas. A spicy, fruity finish in which hints of yeast make themselves felt nicely. Drink now - 2015 or longer. Score 95. (Yquem Vertical, Jan 2003)

Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1975: Deep, full, concentrated and intense, this is a wine that although magnificent now is still waiting to attain its peak. Abundant pineapple, peaches and toasted hazelnuts all on an unabashedly sweet, vanilla and oaky background. Balance that is impeccable make the wine approachable now, but this is one to hold for at least another decade. Best 2015 - 2050. Score 98. (Yquem Vertical, Jan 2003)

Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 1983: When I last tasted this wine (23 Sep 1998), I described it as a "super Yquem" and the wine earned a score of 98. I have no reasons to take back any of the good things I said then, for this concentrated and complex wine continues to show exquisite balance and concentration. Burnished gold in color, with dried peach and apricot, tropical fruit and citrus, all on a background of honeyed-butterscotch sweetness and a long botrytis finish of spicy oak and vanilla. The only change I will make is my evaluation of drinking time, for I am now convinced that this wine will live comfortably until 2050 - perhaps even longer. Score 98. (Yquem Vertical, Jan 2003)

If anyone is curious to see my tasting notes for d'Yquem 1981, 1986, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1994 and 1995 can find them here.

© Daniel Rogov