Among my greatest pleasures while at the recently concluded VinItaly fair in Verona was a tasting of sixty five of the just-now being released Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riservas, mostly of 1998, 1999 and 2000. I am well aware that many people these days choose to pass over Chianti in favor of the supposedly more elegant and sophisticated so-called Super-Tuscans. Personally, I believe that is an error and with neither apologies nor embarrassment I openly admit that good Chianti has always been a gift from the gods. Advances in Italy and Tuscany over the last two decades have simply reinforced the pleasure I take from these wines.

For convenience sake in this case I have listed the wines I tasted in alphabetical order, and in those cases where a winery offers both a Classico and a Classico Riserva, the first notes are those of the Classico wines.

Aiola, Chianti Clasico, 2000: Young, fresh, medium bodied and with a ruby red color, lots of cherry flavors and violet aromas this unpretentious but very appealing wine has plenty of black fruit, herbal and spicy flavors. Not complex but delicious and well suited for early drinking. Score 87.

Aiola, Chianti Classico Riserva 1999: Deep red or purple, depending on how the light catches it, this medium to full bodied wine reveals tempting black and red fruits as well as spicy and leathery aromas and flavors. Needs time in the glass to open, but drinking nicely now - 2005. Score 88.

Antinori, Chianti Classico, Peppoli, 1999: Medium bodied, with plenty of plum, spice, vanilla flavors and aromas, this well balanced wine has velvety smooth tannins and a long, just spicy enough finish. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 88.

Antinori, Chianti Classico Riserva, Badia a Passignano, 1998: Everybody (including me) wrote in superlatives about the 1997 vintage in Tuscany, but many of the 1998 wines are proving every bit as delicious. This exquisite full bodied red wine, for example, has an impressive range of fruits and tannins, all very well integrated. Made entirely from Sangiovese grapes that spent about 15 months in oak casks, the wine is aromatic, showing berry, cassis, wet earth and a long fruity finish. If you liked the '97 (which earned a score of 92) you'll adore this one. Score 93.

Antinori, Chianti Classico Riserva, Tenute Marchese Antinori, 1998: One of the many wines that gives the house of Antinori its good name, and this year, as always, the medium to full bodied wine has plenty of currants, wild berries and oak all overlaying light herbal flavors and aromas. Well balanced and with silky smooth tannins the wine can be drunk now or in the next 3 - 4 years. Score 89.

Antinori, Chianti Classico Riserva, Villa Antinori, 1999: Medium bodied and with good balance between smooth tannins, fresh red and black fruits and a light herbal overtone, this blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes has rich, long lingering flavors. In a phrase, delightful. Drink now - 2004. Score 89.

Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico, RS, 2000: Bright cherry red towards purple, medium bodied red strikes a fine balance between smooth tannins, fresh fruits and natural acids. A wine for easy but not at all simple drinking. Drink now - 2004. Score 87.

Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1998: Two years in oak casks give this medium bodied red just enough black cherry, vanilla, spice and smoky oak flavors and aromas. Lacking somewhat in concentration and with flavors that fade rather quickly, the wine is fully ready for drinking. Score 85.

Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Cetamura, 2000: Berry, floral and light minty flavors and aromas come together in this exuberant, dark ruby colored wine. Light to medium bodied, this medium bodied wine is destined for uncomplicated but pleasant in its youth. Score 85.

Banfi, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1998: With fruits that rise to the palate and nostrils when the wine is poured but then fade rather quickly in the glass this is a pleasant but somewhat boring little wine. Score 83.

Barone Ricasoli, Chianti Classico, Castello di Brolio, 2000: This medium to full bodied blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged in small and large oak casks for 10 months has appealing cherry, berry, vanilla and coffee aromas and flavors. Smooth tannins here, and flavors that linger very nicely. Score 88.

Barone Ricasoli, Chianti Classico Riserva, Rocca Guicciarda, 1999: Made entirely from Sangiovese grapes and aged in small and large oak casks, this proves one of the Chianti Classico Riservas of 1999. Delicious, with an abundance of red fruit and wild berry flavors all overlaid nicely with aromas and flavors of roasted coffee, chocolate and hints of cinnamon. Smooth tannins and a long finish make the wine drinkable now or until about 2004. Score 90.

Buondonno, Chianti Classico, Casavechia Olla Piazza 2000: A wine that proves itself consistently delicious through various vintage years. Plenty of raspberry, black currant and spicy oak flavors and aromas make this medium bodied, well balanced wine drinkable now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 89.

Buodonno, Chianti Classico Riserva 1999: Medium to full bodied, with silky smooth tannins and a smoky mocha finish, this elegant wine boasts ample cherry, berry, vanilla and chocolate aromas, all on a well balanced and firm frame. Elegance in a quiet way. Drink now - 2006. Score 92.

Carpinetto, Chianti Classico, 2000: A medium to full bodied blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo that spent about 6 months in oak, you will find plenty of black fruit, vanilla, violets and spices in this very appealing wine. Fruity and smooth and as in the past a very good match to pasta and risotto dishes containing porcini mushrooms. Score 89+.

Carpinetto, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1998: With velvety smooth tannins on a well constructed, medium to full bodied frame, this Sangiovese and Canaiolo blend has tempting black plum, raspberry and herbal aromas and flavors. Drinking well now, and with a spicy finish, the wine promises to cellar nicely for 4 - 5 years longer. As the wine ages look for hints of mocha and tobacco to slide in at the finish. Score 91.

Casa Emma, Chianti Classico, 2000: Deep ruby with garnet overtones, this medium bodied and well balanced wine has appealing dried fruit, chocolate, leather and mineral flavors. Firm tannins, good balance and flavors that linger nicely, along with plenty of wood to add character make the wine drinkable now or until 2004. Score 89.

Casa Sola, Chianti Classico, 1999: Light, without too many complexities and with lots of cherry, berry and earthiness, this is a lively little Chianti to go well with fun pizza or pasta meals. Drinking well now. Score 85.

Casa Sola, Chianti Classico Rieserva, Casa Sola 1998: Medium bodied and with an appealing deep cherry red color, and aromas and flavors of black cherries and earthy-spicy flavors, this wine will make a good choice for veal and chicken dishes. Flavors that linger nicely and smooth tannins make the wine drinkable now - 2004. Score 88.

Castellare, Chianti Classico, 2000: A twin to the wine of 1999, and that is no sin at all, for this reddish purple, medium bodied wine is well balanced and flavorful, packed with red currants, wild berries and plum aromas and flavors. Good structure and plenty of balancing acidity. Drink now or in the next year or two. Score 89.

Castellare, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1999: Based largely on Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes, with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon, but with a remarkable Bordeaux nose of dried fruits, sweet cassis and leather, this medium to full bodied wine opens beautifully in the glass. Smooth tannins come together nicely with vanilla and light cedar wood on the finish. Score 91.

Castelli del Grevepesa, Chianti Classico, 2000: With an abundance of berry mint and plum aromas and flavors this medium bodied wine has a smoky elegance and silky tannins. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 89.

Castelli del Grevepesa, Chianti Clasico Riserva, 1998: Luscious and tempting, this medium to full bodied wine has just the right balance between smooth tannins, black fruits and flowery overtones. Fresh and lively, but with elegant layers of flavors that develop on the palate, this is a wine that can be approached now or cellared until 2004 - 2005. Score 91

Castello d'Albola, Chianti Classico, 1999: Reddish-purple in color, this medium bodied wine offers plenty of blackberry, currant and plum aromas and flavors. Plenty of tannins and balancing acidity make this an appealing wine for drinking now or in the next year or so. Score 88.

Castello d'Albola Riserva, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1998: Deep ruby red towards purple, this medium to full bodied wine offers up rich flavors and aromas of berries, earthiness and black fruits. Good integration of wood, smooth tannins and natural acidity make the wine drinkable now - 2003. Score 88.

Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico, Bellavista, 1998: Yet another excellent wine from Ama, this full bodied, deep royal purple wine has plenty of smooth flavors, just the right hint of the large oak casks in which it was aged and complex berry, cherry, floral, earthy and spicy aromas and flavors that play nicely on the palate. Long lingering, the wine is drinking well now but will be at its best only from 2003 - 2007. Score 92+.

Castello di Cacchiano, Chianti Classico, 1999: A country-style Chianti, medium bodied with chunky
tannins and appealing black fruit, spice and mineral flavors and aromas. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 86.

Castello di Cacchiano, Chanti Classico Riserva, 1997: Medium to full bodied, this deep ruby red wine offers up generous fruit and herbal flavors and aromas. Light tannins and somewhat fragile balance indicate that the wine should be consumed without overdue delay. Score 85.

Castello di Farnetella, Chianti Colli Sensi, Riserva 1999: Rich, with meaty, smoky traits, this medium bodied fruity wine has smooth tannins and good balance. Drink now - 2003. Score 86

Castello di Gabbiano, Chianti Classico, 2000: Deep ruby in color, this distinctly Old World blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Malvais and Trebbiana grapes was aged 18 months in oak vats. Medium to full bodied, with plenty of black berries, plums and spices, all coming together nicely with soft tannins, the wine is drinkable now - 2004. Score 89.

Castello di Gabbiano, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1997: Fresh and clean, this full bodied Riserva spent two years in oak and now shows a deep garnet color and complex berry, spice flavors and aromas. Full, deep and rich, the wine is drinking well now but should cellar comfortably until 2004 - 2005. Score 90.

Castello di Querceto, Chianti Classico, 2000: Lively cherry, berry and dried fruit aromas and flavors in this light to medium bodied wine. Soft tannins and hints of earthiness. Mouthfilling and pleasant and fully ready to drink now. Score 88.

Castello di Querceto, Chianti Classico Riserva, Il Picchio, 1998 Well made, with vanilla, cherry and mint characteristics, this light to medium bodied wine is a bit short on the finish but will do very nicely with simple Italian meals. Score 88.

Castello dei Rampolla, Chianti Classico, 2000: A blend of 95% Sangioves and 5% Cabernet that was aged in large oak barrels for 12 months. Good peppery, berry and black fruit and a nice mouth-filling texture here. Drinking well now. Score 87.

Castello di Verrazzano, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1999: Generous in its delicious fruity, peppery character, this light to medium bodied red has silky tannins and a pleasingly fresh finish. Drinking well now. Score 87.

Cecchi, Messer Pietro di Teuzzo, Chianti Classico, 2000: Medium bodied, with plenty of peppery, earthy and vanilla flavors overlaying berries and raspberries. Attractive for early drinking. Score 85.

Cennatoio, Chianti Classico Oro, Riserva, 1998: Beautiful! Lots of cherry, berry, vanilla and coffee aromas and flavors in a medium bodied, finely tuned wine with smooth tannins and a long smoky finish. Drink now - 2004. Score 89.

Cennatoio, Chianti Classico O'Leandro, Riserva, 1998: Roast coffee, chocolate and berry aromas and flavors on a medium to full bodied wine, all come together beautifully. Velvety smooth tannins and a long finish add to the charms of this well crafted wine. Score 90.

Coli, Chianti Classico, 2001: A blend of primarily Sangiovese but with with Canaiolo, Trebbiano Bianco and Malvasia del Chianti grapes, this lively medium bodied red has tempting flavors and aromas of cassis, wild berries and just a modicum of spiciness. Ruby red now but look for the wine to darken and for flavors of chocolate to make themselves felt as the wine develops. Drink now - 2004. Score 88.

Coli Chianti Classico Villa Montignana, Riserva 1997: With appealing aromas and flavors of blackberries, vanilla and spring flowers, this well structured medium to full bodied wine has plenty of smooth tannins. Drinking nicely now but the wine should take on deeper color and toasty flavors as it develops over the next year or two. Score 89.

Fattoria de Felsina, Chianti Classico Riserva, Beradenga, 1998: Medium to full bodied, with delicious toasted oak and ripe blackberry flavors and smooth, well integrated tannins and an appealingly long finish in which you fill find mocha, this elegant wine is drinking nicely now but should cellar well until 2005. Score 92.

Fattoria de Felsina, Chianti Classico, Berardenga, Riserva, 1999: Deep ruby to garnet in color, this beautiful and delicious wine has rich aromas and flavors of chocolate, coffee and black fruits, all on a medium to full bodied frame. Smooth tannins and a long finish here. Drink now - 2005. Score 92.

Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico, 2000: This deep, mult-layered and medium to full bodied wine is packed with elegant flavors of black fruits. Smooth tannins, lively balancing acidity and a light overlay good make this wine drinkable now or in the next 3 - 4 years. Score 92.

Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1999: The only fault that you will find in this wine is that as delicious as it is, it is not up to the fabulous standards it set in 1997 and 1998. Medium to full bodied, with deep royal purple color and aromas and flavors of wild berries, black cherries, currants and plums, the wine has already smooth tannins that make it enjoyable now. A generous mouthful here, but without great complexity. Score 89.

Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1998: Again happily surprised to see that the '98 wine is even better than the wine from the "great" '97 vintage. Full bodied, with an extraordinary range of fruits (among other things look for red and black berries, black currants and black plums), as well as lovely hints of damp earth and the promise of tobacco and chocolate yet to develop, this aromatic, very well balanced wine is destined to a long, comfortable life in the bottle. Approachable now but the wine will be at its best only between 2003 - 2008. Score 93+.

Fontodi, Chianti Classico Riserva, Vigna del Sorbo, 1999: Medium to full bodied, this single vineyard Riserva blend consists primarily of Sangiovese with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in small French oak barrels, there are impressive fruits and tannins here, all well integrated. Look for aromatic berry, currant, herbal and damp earth character here, along with smooth tannins and a long comfortable finish. Drink now - 2004. Score 92.

I Sodi, Chianti Classico, 2000: Rich, full bodied and muscular but with surprising elegance, this deep garnet wine shows tempting raspberry, herbal and violet flavors and aromas. Drinking very well now but the wine will be even better between 2003 - 2005. Score 89.

I Sodi Riserva, Chianti Classico Riserva, Elli Cassini, 1999: Solid and firm but polished, this full bodied and heavily tannic wine needs time to develop but when it does it will show lovely fruity aromas and flavors and an enviably long finish. Drink 2003 - 2006. Score 91.

Le Fonti, Chianti Classico, 2000: With mint, cassis, berry and red cherry aromas and flavors, this medium bodied wine has an appealingly soft texture and a long aftertaste. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88.

Le Fonti, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1999: Deep garnet red, this powerful wine provides quite a mouthful of mint, black fruits and damp earth flavors and aromas. An old fashioned wine but with charms that will beckon to modern drinkers, the wine is drinking nicely now but will be at its peak only in another year or two. Score 89.

Machiavelli, Chianti Classico Riserva, Vigna di Fontalle, 1998: Loaded with ripe fruits, especially ripe berries and cherries, this full bodied wine has fine velvety tannins and flavors that linger beautifully on the finish. Drink now - 2006. Score 92.

Montienana, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1999: Already browning, this medium bodied wine is far too heavily marred by weedy, earthy and barnyard aromas and flavors. (Sampled from three separate bottles). Score 78.

Quercia al Poggio, Chianti Classico, 2000: Delicate and fresh, this medium bodied Classico has appealing plum, cherry and herbal aromas and flavors, silky smooth tannins and a lively, fruity finish. Drinking well now. Score 88.

Quercia al Poggio, Riserva, 2000: Solid and firm, almost chunky, this ripe wine offers remarkable combinations of berries, prunes, and white truffle flavors and aromas. Full bodied, with smooth tannins and a long finish, the wine still needs time to develop in the bottle. Approachable now but best between 2003 - 2006. Score 91.

Rocca delle Macie, Chianti Classico, 2000: A very successful blend of 90% Sangiovese, and 5% each of Canaiolo and Merlot grapes, this is indeed delicious Chianti! Full bodied, deep and complex, with aromas and flavors of wild berries spicy black currants and spring flowers, all complemented very nicely indeed by hints of black pepper that develop on the palate, this smooth and elegant wine will drink nicely now - 2006. Score 91.

Rocca delle Macie, Chianti Classico Riserva, Tenuta Sant'Alfonso, 1999: Made entirely from Sangiovese grapes, this deep, full bodied, ruby towards garnet wine shows warm berry and floral aromas and flavors. Together with plenty of smooth tannins and a crisp, long finish the wine is drinking nicely now but should cellar comfortably until 2005 - 2006. Score 91.

Rocca delle Macie, Chianti Classico Riserva, di Fizzano, 1999: A highly successful full bodied, single vineyard blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (85%, 10% and 5% respectively), this still young wine is showing ruby red with orange reflections and an abundance of berry fruits and spices at this drinking. Give it time, however and you will find the wine going to garnet and flavors of truffles and spring flowers developing. Drink now or cellar for another 5 - 6 years. Score 93.

San Felice, Chianti Classico, 2000: Ruby toward garnet in color, this medium bodied but solid wine has complex berry, plum and mineral flavors and aromas. Fresh and lively, but deep and complex the wine is drinking well now but will show its best only after 2003. Score 89.

San Felice, Chianti Classico Riserva, Il Grigio, 1999: Full bodied, firm and solid, with complex berry, prune and herbal flavors and aromas and with a hint of black truffles that comes in as the wine develops on the palate, this luxurious wine has flavors that linger on and on. Drink now or until 2005. Score 92.

Tenimenti Angelini, Chianti Classico, San Leonino, 2000: A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo grapes that spent 15 months in older oak casks, this well crafted wine shows appealing mint, currant, berry and cherry aromas and flavors. Medium bodied and with smooth tannins the wine has an appealingly long fruity finish. Score 88.

Tenimenti Angelini, Chianti Classico, Monsensese, 2000: Medium to full bodied, this deep ruby blend of Sangiovese (90%) and Cabernet Sauvignon(10%) spent 18 months in new French oak barriques. A big, deep, full bodied Chianti, with concentrated berry, mint, mocha flavors and aromas, this harmonious wine is drinking nicely now but will show true elegance as it ages for 2 more years. Best drining 2003 - 2006. Score 91.

Tenuta Montegiachi, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1998: Absolutely lovely! With rich flavors of black fruits, currants and mint, this full bodied and concentrated wine also yields tobacco and mocha flavors as it lingers in the mouth. Perhaps not quite elegant but certainly delicious. Drink now - 2004. Score 90.

Terrabianca, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1999: As one has come to expect from this winery, this appealing medium to full bodied wine has an abundance of plum, roasted nut and berry aromas and flavors. Look for a hint of mint on the long aftertaste. Drink now - 2004. Score 88.

Villa Cafaggio, Chianti Classico, 2000: Full bodied and powerful, with cherry, berry and game aromas and flavors, this distinctive wine opens in the glass to show a pleasingly long aftertaste. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 89.

Villa Cafaggio, Riserva, 1999: The first reaction to this wine as it sits on the palate is one of ripe fruits, but as the wine opens it shows deep and complex aromas and flavors of dried herbs, tobacco and berries. Full bodied and deep, the wine lingers nicely on the palate. Drink now or in the next year or two. Score 90.

© Daniel Rogov