Rogov's Ramblings
Chocolate, Chocolate, Marvelous Chocolate

In George Bernard Shaw's charming play, Raina, one of the character accuses another of being "…a very poor soldier: a chocolate cream soldier!". With all due respect to soldiers, but with none towards the state of the world that forces us to need them, I cannot help but think that being considered a chocolate cream soldier would be quite a compliment indeed.

It is true that if consumed in excess chocolate rots the teeth and adds unwanted centimeters to our waistlines. It is even addictive. To all of which I say that the Greek philosophers were quite correct in their belief that everything, taken in the appropriate amount, has its place. And, indeed chocolate has its place! In response to a special request from an acknowledged chocoholic, I have thus decided to post yet another series of chocolate-based recipes. Those recipes noted with a single asterisk (*) are those that can be prepared with even the most basic knowledge of cookery; two asterisks indicate recipes that call for somewhat more complex ingredients or cooking methods, and those noted with three asterisks are dishes that call for a higher level of knowledge and probably a great deal of time.

Before or after getting to the recipes, those who want to read a bit about the history and mythology of chocolate will find an article and several more recipes by clicking here.

Black Polenta Souffles **
A recipe by chef Kevin Cauldwell of Tel Aviv's Stuzzi


45 gr. butter
25 gr. polenta (can use cornmeal)
100 ml. milk
100 gr. bitter-sweet chocolate, grated finely
3 egg yolks
dash or two of vanilla extract
4 egg whites
80 gr. sugar
butter and sugar as required
confectioners' sugar as required
whipped cream for serving

In a saucepan melt the butter over a medium heat and add the polenta. Saute for 1 minute, stirring constantly, and then add the milk. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened.

Transfer the polenta to a bowl. While still hot, add the chocolate and stir until it is melted and the color of the mixture is uniform throughout. Let cool and then add the egg yolks, mixing well. Add a dash or two of vanilla extract, mix and let the mixture stand.

By hand or with an electric mixer, whip the egg whites until stiff, adding the sugar slowly at the end of the process. Fold the egg whites into the chocolate-polenta mixture until blended in thoroughly.

Butter and dust lightly with sugar 4 - 5 souffle ramekins, and fill these 3/4 full with the polenta mixture. Place the ramekins on a shallow baking pan filled half way with water and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius until the souffles have risen and cracks show in the top (20 - 25 minutes). Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve immediately with whipped cream. (Serves 4 or 5).

Chocolate-Walnut Royale **
A recipe by chef-conditore Dalia Renaud


For the pie dough:
220 gr. flour
130 gr. cold butter
60 gr. sugar powder
1 egg yolk

For the caramel:
150 gr. sugar
30 gr. honey
60 gr. butter
80 gr. coarsely chopped walnuts
70 gr. sweet cream


For the chocolate cream:
200 gr. high quality bitter chocolate
4 egg yolks, lightly whisked
50 gr. sugar
300 gr. sweet cream

For the decoration:
80 gr. whole walnuts
high quality cocoa powder
80 gr. roasted, blanched almonds

Prepare the pie dough: By hand or with a food processor, mix all of the ingredients until the mixture is homogenous . In the bottom of a 24 cm. spring pan place a sheet of baking paper and on this flatten the dough. Bake in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius just until the dough has taken on a golden color. Remove from the oven and set aside.

For the caramel: In a heavy pot, melt the sugar until it becomes a golden caramel. Add the honey and butter and thicken for a minute or two. Add the nuts and sweet cream, cook for 5 minutes and then let cool.

For the chocolate cream: Melt the chocolate in a bain marie (double boiler) over hot water. In a mixing bowl, whisk the sweet cream and sugar together and then whisk in the egg yolks. Spoon 3 - 4 Tbsp. of the cream and egg yolk mixture into the melted chocolate, mixing gently but steadily. When the mixture is even throughout, pour the chocolate into the bowl with the remaining sweet cream and mix gently for another minute.

To assemble the cake: Put the ring of the pan in place, flatten the caramel and nut mixture on this and on this spread the chocolate cream. Cool for at least 6 hours in the refrigerator. Free the ring by running a sharp knife around the edge, decorate with the blanched almonds, sprinkle a bit of cocoa over the cake and on this distribute the walnuts. (Serves 6 - 8).


Chocolate Volcano **
A recipe by chef Didi Ben Arush of Jerusalem's Cavalier

300 gr. semi-sweet chocolate with a 50% cacao-fat content, broken into cubes
300 gr. butter
400 gr. sugar
6 whole eggs
6 egg yolks
160 gr. flour
corn oil and flour as required
70 gr. highest quality milk chocolate, broken into cubes
1 tsp. confectioners' sugar for decoration
vanilla ice cream or vanilla pastry sauce for serving (optional)

In the top part of a bain marie (double boiler), over boiling water melt the chocolate and the butter together, whisking together with a wire whisk. Let cool.

In a blender or food processor, process the whole eggs and egg yolks, add the sugar and process again. Add the chocolate mixture, process again, and then add the flour and mix well.

Oil and lightly flour a coccotte or a round ovenproof ceramic container. With the chocolate mixture fill the cocotte to 2/3 of its height. Place the chocolate cubes in the center of the cocotte, with a wooden spoon push them into the center so that they will be covered completely. Bake in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius for 10 - 11 minutes. Remove, invert and turn onto a serving plate and sprinkle over confectioner's sugar. Serve hot. If desired, serve with vanilla ice cream or vanilla pastry sauce. (Serves 4 - 6).

Mousse au Rhum *
Rum-Chocolate Mousse - A traditional French dessert


1/4 cup sugar
3 Tbsp. rum
115 gr. (1/4 lb.) semi-sweet chocolate
3 Tbsp. heavy sweet cream
2 egg whites, beaten stiff
2 cups whipped cream

In a saucepan combine the sugar and rum and, over a low flame, stirring constantly, cook until the sugar is dissolved. Do not allow the mixture to brown.

In the upper part of a double boiler melt the chocolate and then stir in the sweet cream. Pour the sugar syrup into the chocolate mixture and stir until smooth. Remove from the heat and, when quite cool, fold in the egg whites. Very gently then fold in the whipped cream. Pour into sorbet or other dessert glasses and chill thoroughly before serving. Serves 6 - 8.


Creme Jerez *
Chocolate Sherry Chiffon - A traditional Spanish dessert

1 1/2 packages unflavored gelatin
1cup cream Sherry
1 cup milk
85 gr. (3 oz.) unsweetened chocolate, grated
1/4 cup hazelnuts, ground finely
2 eggs, separated
1 cup + 2 tbs. Sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
1/2 cup heavy cream

In a cup dissolve the gelatin in 1/4 cup of the sherry. Transfer the mixture to the top of a double boiler together with the milk and chocolate. Over boiling water, stirring regularly, heat the mixture until the chocolate is completely dissolved and the mixture smooth throughout. Add the hazelnuts, remove from the heat and let cool, stirring occasionally.

In a small bowl beat together the egg yolks and 3/4 cup of the sugar. Add the vanilla and beat in. Add the remaining Sherry and stir this mixture into the cooled chocolate mixture.

Beat the egg whites together with the remaining sugar until the mixture is stiff. In a separate bowl beat the heavy cream until stiff. Into the whipped cream stir the chocolate mixture and then gradually fold in the egg whites. Mix gently but thoroughly to eliminate all lumps. Pour the mixture into 6 individual dessert dishes and refrigerate until well set. Serves 6.

Chocolate Chestnut Cream *


125 grams high quality semi-sweet chocolate, broken into small pieces
1 Tbsp. butter
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
1 cup sweetened chestnut puree (may use tinned)
2 Tbsp. Cognac or other high quality brandy
1 cup sweet cream, beaten stiff

In a double boiler melt the chocolate together with the butter. When the mixture is smooth remove from the heat and add the beaten egg yolk and brandy. With a fork mash the chestnut puree and then beat it into the mixture. Fold in the whipped cream and then pour into individual dessert or wine glasses. Refrigerate. Serve well chilled. (Serves 4 - 6).

© Daniel Rogov

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