Gavius Apicius, who lived in Rome during the rein of Augustus and Tiberius in the first century may not have been a particularly noble human being but he was one who knew how to live well. Popular as a host, Apicius spent enormous sums of money on dining and entertaining. As a chef, he also invented many new dishes. It is widely thought that he also founded the "school for good cooking" referred to by the dramatist-philosopher Seneca.

In addition to being a well known public figure, Apicius was also inordinately fond of high living. Possibly because his penchant for entertaining lavishly dominated his life, he built up a collection of debts. When he found himself left with an income of only 250,000 sesterces, he felt he could no longer live in the style to which he had become accustomed and committed suicide by poisoning himself.

Before his unhappy end, Apicius wrote De re Culinaria, the oldest cookbook still in existence. Most culinary experts today agree that most of Apicius' recipes would not be particularly appealing to modern diners. Despite this, they give great credit to his efforts for, among other accomplishments he was probably the first culinary expert to suggest that cooking with wine could add enormous charm to many otherwise dull dishes.

Since Apicius' time, cooking with wine has become a well established tradition throughout the world. Since the 14th century, the Italians have known that cooking veal in wine transforms an ordinary dish into a superb one and, at least according to the well known food writer Robert Courtine "from the onset of the 16thcentury we French have realized that any stew cooked without wine is a sad stew indeed". The Chinese-American poet-philosopher Lin Yutang went even further when he declared that "the beginning of civilization can be marked as that moment when the first cook realized that wine belongs in the cooking pot as much as it does in the wine glass".

Following is an international selection of dishes, all of which rely on wine to add to their charm. Unless otherwise noted, the recipes are designed to serve 4 - 6.

Beef and Lamb Meatballs - Greece

1/2 cup burghul
3 Tbsp. olive oil
350 grams ground beef
350 grams ground lamb
1 medium onion, chopped finely
4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1/2 cup sherry wine
6 eggs
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. hot paprika
1/4 tsp. powdered mustard
1/2 cup bread crumbs
oil for deep frying
lemon wedges, chopped parsley and thinly shredded onion for garnish

Wash and clean the burghul. Soak in water 12 hours and then drain, discarding the water.

In a skillet with 3 - 4 Tbsp. oil, saute the beef, lamb, onions and garlic until the meat is lightly browned. Add the wine and continue to simmer, stirring often, until the liquids have evaporated.

In a large mixing bowl combine the meat mixture, the burghul 1 of the eggs, and the pepper, parsley, paprika and mustard. Knead the mixture well by hand and then form into balls about 2 1/2 centimeters in diameter.

In a mixing bowl beat the remaining eggs together with 1 1/2 Tbsp. of water. Dip each meatball first into the egg and then roll in the bread crumbs. Repeat this process three times in all so that the meatballs are well coated. Deep fry the meatballs in hot oil until the crusts begin to darken. Remove from heat and allow to cool 1 - 2 minutes. Remove the meatballs with a slotted spoon and once again dip into the bread crumbs. Return to the deep oil and continue frying until meatballs are done. (The crusts will be crisp to the fingernail). Garnish with lemon wedges, chopped parsley and thinly shredded onion.

Dill Meat Balls - Sweden

1/4 cup milk
1 egg
1 1/2 tsp. salt
pepper and nutmeg to taste
1/2 kilo lean ground beef
1/4 kilo veal, ground
1/4 kilo chicken, ground
2 slices white bread, with crusts removed
1/2 cup fresh dill, minced
about 2 cups beef or chicken stock
1/2 cup butter
1 large onion, chopped finely
1 cup dry or medim-dry red wine
1/4 cup sugar

In a large mixing bowl combine the milk, egg, salt, pepper and nutmeg, mixing well. Add the beef, veal and chicken, the bread and 1/3 of the dill and work together well. Cover and let stand about 1/2 hour.

In a large skillet heat 3 Tbsp. of the butter and in this saute the onion until golden brown. With a slotted spoon remove the onion to the mixing bowl with the meat mixture and work the onion in by hand. Form the mixture into meatballs about 3 ½ cm. in diameter.

In the skillet heat the remaining butter and in this saute the meatballs, browning all around. To the skillet add the stock and simmer over a medium flame for about 5 minutes.

Make a sauce for the meatballs by heating the wine in a separate saucepan. When bubbles begin to appear at the surface add the sugar and cinnamon. Heat just to the boiling point, stirring constantly. Lower the flame and let simmer until the liquids are reduced to half their original volume. Remove from the flame. To serve, pour the wine over the meatballs, sprinkle with the remaining dill.

Cinnamon Wine Soup - Egypt

3 cups dry red wine
1 stick cinnamon, about 7 centimeters long
peel of 1/2 lemon, in 2 or 3 pieces
3 Tablespoons cornstarch
3 Tablespoons sugar
2 egg yolks, beaten lightly

In a saucepan simmer together the wine, cinnamon and lemon peel for 10 minutes.

In a mixing bowl blend together the cornstarch and 3 tablespoons of cold water. Stir this into 3 more cups of water, transfer to a separate saucepan and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Strain the cornstarch mixture into the wine and add the sugar, stirring well (may add more sugar to taste). Slowly spoon about 1 cup of the hot wine soup into the egg yolks, beating constantly. Pour the mixture back into the soup slowly, beating constantly. Heat through but do not boil. Taste and correct the flavoring with sugar if necessary. Serve either hot or chilled.

Baked Marrow Bones - A classic Italian dish known as Osso Bucco

1/2 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper
pinch each nutmeg, chervil and tarragon
1 1/2 kilos veal shin bones, sawed into 8 centimeter pieces
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup dry white wine about
2 cups veal or chicken sock
1/4 cup parsley
2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 teaspoon lemon rind, grated

In a small bowl mix together the flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, chervil and tarragon.

Dip the bones first in the olive oil and then in the seasoned flour, coating well.

In a heavy flameproof casserole or saucepan place the bones in an upright position, packed as closely together as possible and pour over the olive oil. Over a low flame brown the bones, rolling them as necessary to brown all sides. Over this pour the wine and enough stock to cover at least half of the bones. Cover and bake in a slow oven until the meat is falling from the bones (about 1 1/2 hours). Sprinkle over with the parsley, garlic and lemon rind and serve hot. (In some areas of Italy it is considered traditional to spoon stewed vegetables over the meat).

Noodles with Mullard Breast and Vegetables - Indonesia

2 cups red wine for cooking
about 2 teaspoons black pepper
1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon
1/2 kilo duck or mullard breast, in one or two pieces
1/2 kilogram very fine rice noodles
3/4 cup oil
2 eggs, lightly beaten with
2 tablespoons of water
2 large onions, sliced thinly
3 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 Tablespoon powdered ginger
3 cups Chinese cabbage, shredded
1 cup bean sprouts, well drained
1 cup shrimp, cooked and diced
1 Tablespoon soy sauce

In a ceramic or glass bowl combine the wine, 1 teaspoon of the black pepper and the cinnamon and place the duck or mullard breast in this. Refrigerate, covered, for 4 - 6 hours, turning once or twice. Drain the meat, discarding the wine. Slice the breast thinly and then cut the slices into strips.

In a large amount of boiling salted water cook the noodles until nearly tender. Drain, spread on a flat surface to cool and refrigerate for 2 - 3 hours.

In a skillet heat 2 teaspoons of the oil and in this make an omelet of the eggs. Roll the omelet, let cool and slice thinly. Set aside.

In a clean heavy skillet heat 2 Tablespoons of the oil and in this saute the duck or mullard strips for 5 - 6 minutes. Remove the meat and set aside to keep warm. Add to the skillet 2 more tablespoons of oil and in this saute together the garlic, onions and ginger for 3 - 4 minutes. Remove from the skillet and set aside to keep warm. Add 2 more tablespoons of the oil to the skillet and in this saute together the cabbage and bean sprouts for 3 minutes. Add the shrimp and saute 2 minutes longer. Return to the skillet all of the sauteed ingredients, add the soy sauce and the remaining pepper and cook 2 minutes longer.

In a separate skillet heat the remaining oil and into this turn the noodles and saute until browned. Drain well.

To serve, place the noodles on a platter and over them turn out the duck or mullard and cabbage mixture. Sprinkle over all with the sliced omelet. (Serves 8).

Chicken in Wine - A classic French recipe known as Coq au Vin

1 1/2 cups red wine for cooking
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, thinly sliced
2 bouquets garni made by tying together 4 sprigs of parsley, 2 sprigs of tarragon and 1 bay leaf
3 cloves garlic, sliced
6 peppercorns
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 chicken, about 1 1/2 kilos, cut in convenient serving pieces
4 Tablespoons butter 125 grams bacon
16 baby onions, peeled
1/4 kilo mushrooms, sliced
2 Tablespoons flour
3 shallots, chopped finely
2 Tablespoons parsley
1 Tablespoon brandy
salt and black pepper to taste

In a deep bowl combine the red wine, thinly sliced onion, carrot, 1 of the bouquets garni, 2 cloves of the garlic, the peppercorns and the olive oil. Into this mixture place the chicken pieces and turn well, making sure all pieces are coated. Let marinate for about 6 hours at room temperature, turning the pieces occasion- ally.

Drain the chicken pieces and pat them dry with absorbent towels. Drain the marinade and discard the vegetables and seasonings.

In a large skillet heat the butter and in this saute the bacon or mullard breast until browned. Remove the bacon from the pan and then saute the baby onions until lightly browned. Remove and then saute the mushrooms just until tender. Remove these and then place the chicken pieces in the skillet and brown both sides. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Discard from the pan all but 2 - 3 tablespoons of the fat and to this add the flour and cook, stirring regularly, until the mixture is bubbling. Add the reserved liquid from the marinade and then add the garlic, shallots, other bouquet garni and salt and pepper to taste. Return the chicken to the skillet cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer slowly until the chicken is nearly tender (about 20 - 25 minutes), stirring occasionally. Stir in the onions and simmer for 5 minutes longer.

Place the chicken on a serving platter and set aside to keep warm. Discard the bouquet garni, stir the mushrooms and bacon into the sauce. If the sauce is overly thin ring to a boil until it thickens. Correct the seasoning and spoon the sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with parsley just before serving.

Breaded Sole in Wine - France

3 whole sole, about 675 grams each
salt and pepper to taste
3/4 cup butter, melted
6 shallots, chopped
1 1/2 Tablespoon parsley, chopped
1 1/2 cup dry bread crumbs
3/4 cup white wine for cooking
lemon wedges for garnish

Remove the skins and clean the fish, making an incision along the bone. Salt and pepper the fish and then dip into the melted butter. (Do not discard the remaining butter). Grease a heatproof casserole dish and sprinkle the chopped shallots and parsley over the bottom. On this place the fish and sprinkle the upper sides with the bread crumbs. Over this pour the wine. Bake in a hot oven until the bread crumbs are browned.

Remove the fish to a preheated serving platter and set aside to keep warm. Let the liquids in the casserole boil until reduced to 3/4 of the original volume, remove from the flame and add the butter. Swirl in well and then pour this sauce over the fish. Serve immediately garnished with lemon wedges.

Pears in Wine Sauce

1 cup sugar
4 slices lemon
4 sticks cinnamon
8 pears, peeled but not cored, with stem intact
1 1/2 cups dry red wine

In a saucepan combine the sugar with 4 cups of water. Bring to the boil, add the lemon slices, cinnamon and pears, reduce the flame, cover, let simmer for 10 minutes and add the wine.

Remove the pears, return the liquids to a light boil and let the sauce thicken until at a syrup-like consistency. Return the pears to the syrup and let stand, covered, at room temperature overnight. To serve, core the pears, cut in slices and arrange in overlapping rows on dessert plates. Spoon over some of the syrup. Serves 8.

© Daniel Rogov