Louis XIV, le Roi Soleil, ate with his mouth open, consumed outrageous quantities of food and never stopped talking during his meals. Despite these failings, the French loved him because entertained magnificently and had twelve different mistresses. The truth is that like his wife, most of Louis' mistresses were frigid. When it came to food, however, he really did have the capacity to eat enormous amounts and it is said that an autopsy carried out after his death revealed that the royal stomach was twice the size of that of ordinary men.

Serious lovers of gastronomy admire Louis for neither his stomach or his sexual habits, but for the fact that it was at his entertainments that the world first learned about what may be the most magnificent pairing ever made between food and beverage - that of eating fresh strawberries with champagne. So adored is the combination that French poet Baudelaire wrote a poem about it, Benjamin Franklin devoted two pages of praise to it in his almanac, and Anna Deslions, perhaps the most famous courtesan of history, refused anything else to eat either immediately before or immediately after making love. Josephine Beauharnais, the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, may have sung the highest praise to the combination when she observed that "there is nothing in the world more noble, more royal, more rich and better for the human soul than the ability, whenever one desires, to drink champagne and strawberries".

King Louis' other contribution to the world of gastronomic pleasure is the dish known as "Crab Louis". Relying on a series what many would consider an odd and incompatible combination of ingredients, the dish was not invented by Louis but was named after him by a now forgotten chef in California nearly 250 years after the king and his stomach had been laid to rest.

Crab Louis

1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup chili sauce
1/4 cup green pepper, chopped
the white parts of 6 spring onions, chopped
1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
salt and pepper to taste
4 whole lettuce leaves
1 cup lettuce leaves, shredded
2 cups cooked crab meat (fresh or tinned)
2 Tbsp. chives or the green part of spring onions, chopped

In a small mixing bowl combine the mayonnaise, cream, chili sauce, green pepper, spring onion and Worcestershire sauce. Mix well and then add salt and pepper to taste.

In each of 4 serving glasses or small plates lay a lettuce leaf. Over this distribute the shredded lettuce and onto this spoon the crab meat. Over the crab distribute the mayonnaise dressing and over all sprinkle the chopped chives. May be served immediately or chilled for no more than 1 hour before serving. (Serves 4 as an hors d'oeuvre).

© Daniel Rogov