Not too long ago, a reader inquired as to the differences between shrimps, crayfish, langoustines and lobsters. I responded that it was tempting to say that she had "opened a bag of worms" but the truth was that she had indeed opened quite a bag of decapods (crustaceans with ten legs) for the problem is that by whatever name, crayfish (or crawfish as they are often called in the United States), shrimps, prawns, langoustes and the langoustines, all of which are edible decapods, are names that are used too loosely by most chefs, critics and cooks. Following is a bit of clarification and a few recipes.

Crayfish are fresh water decapods. Even though they resemble spiny lobsters they are smaller. Close cousins perhaps, but no more. Crayfish in French are ecrivesses. Be there no question but that the best crayfish dishes in the world are served in the state of Louisiana.

Langoustines are closely related to the crayfish but are salt water decapods. Even though the word langoustine is French, it is used in English as well because true langoustines do not exist in North America. One happy bit of news is that recipes calling for crayfish or langoustines can be used interchangeably. The meat of both are delicious, but you will find that crayfish are somewhat lighter and more puffy on the palate and it is that trait that makes them so highly prized throughout france.

To add a bit of confusion, prawns, which are very closely related to shrimps but are not (as is commonly thought) merely "large shrimps" are also called langoustines in French. That is not so much an error (especially on menus) as it is an attempt to give prawns a somewhat higher "status".

Shrimps, which are salt water creatures are called crevettes in French. Some fresh water shrimps also exist but these are not highly prized in the culinary world.

As to lobsters themselves - these salt water creatures come in two general varieties - the spiny lobster (common in France) and the smooth shelled lobster (North America, South Africa, etc). Although smooth shelled lobsters are always called homard in French, the spiny lobster can be referred to as either langouste or homard).

Following are several recipes for crayfish or langoustines. Recipes noted with a single asterisk (*) are those that can be prepared with even the most basic knowledge of cookery; two asterisks indicate recipes that call for somewhat more complex ingredients or cooking methods, and those noted with three asterisks are dishes that call for a higher level of knowledge and probably a great deal of time.

Crayfish in Almond Sauce **
A Spanish dish

about 1 1/2 kilos crayfish or langoustines
1 1/2 tsp. black pepper
juice of 4 large lemons
2 cups olive oil
4 - 6 cloves garlic, chopped
2 sprigs parsley, chopped
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
24 almonds, peeled and lightly roasted
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
salt to taste

Split the crayfish or langoustines in half lengthwise, preferably while alive, clean well and season to taste with 1/2 tsp. of the black pepper, the juice of 2 of the lemons and salt to taste. Brush with olive oil and grill under a hot broiler or over hot charcoals until the meat is done.

While the crayfish is grilling make a sauce by combining the garlic, remaining black pepper, cayenne pepper and parsley in a mortar and grinding together thoroughly. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Serve the fish while hot with the sauce served separately. Serves 4.

Crayfish with Green Peppers *
A recipe from the island of Cozumel in Mexico

36 crayfish, langoustines or prawns, boiled and cleaned
2 Tbsp. butter
3 medium sweet green peppers, peeled, seeded and shredded
1 medium onion, sliced thinly
2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
3 medium tomatoes, peeled and mashed
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. black pepper

In a large heavy skillet heat the butter and in this saute the peppers, onion and garlic until the onions are nicely browned. Add the tomatoes and continue to saute for 3 - 4 minutes longer. Add the crayfish, salt and pepper and, over lowest possible flame, continue to saute until heated through. May be served on rice pilaf. Serves 6.

Stuffed Crayfish **
A dish popular in on Nassau Island, The Bahamas

2 large or 4 medium crayfish or langoustines
4 fillets of grouper of snapper, diced finely
1 1/2 - 2 cups soft breadcrumbs
1/4 cup light rum
2 egg whites, beaten lightly
1 chili pepper, seeded and chopped finely
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
salt to taste
pinch of grated nutmeg

With a sharp knife split the crayfish in half. Extract and reserve the green meat and then extract and discard the stomach and black thread. Leave the tails in the shells.

In a mixing bowl combine the fish fillets, green crayfish meat, nutmeg and salt to taste. Blend in the parsley, chili pepper, egg whites, 2 Tbsp. of the rum and just enough of the breadcrumbs to make a workable stuffing. With this mixture fill the gaps between the heads and tails of the crayfish.

Transfer the crayfish to a baking pan and bake in a medium-hot oven until cooked (about 15- 20 minutes). Remove from the oven. Gently heat the remaining rum and then carefully flame, pouring the rum over the fish and serve while still flaming. Serves 4.

Crayfish Butter **
Beurre d' Ecrivesses

Although this traditional French sauce can be made from the cooked leftovers (legs, chests, eggs, green matter) of lobsters, crabs and shrimps, it is undoubtedly at its best when made with the remains of crayfish or langoustines. The sauce can be used for sandwich spreads, with canapes, served with hard-boiled eggs or as a decoration for cold dishes. It is also used to enrich shellfish sauces and bisques.

According to Julia Child, from whose recipe this was adapted, the most traditional fashion to make the
Sauce is by placing the shells and meat in a large marble mortar and then pouding them into a puree with a heavy wood pestle. This puree is then ponded with the butter until the entire mixture is integrated. The entire mass is then forced through a fine sieve to remove all of the small pieces of shell that remains. I concur with Child that an equally excellent butter can be made in an electric blender with far less work involved. The following recipe is based on use of a blender.

1 cup cooked debris from crayfish, langoustines, shrimp, lobsters or crabs (can substitute 1/2 cup of cooked, whole unpeeled shellfish meat
1 1/2 Tbsp. tomato puree
115 gr. (1/2 cup) hot melted butter
salt and white pepper to taste

Chop the debris or meat into 1/2 cm. chunks.

Fill the blender with hot water to heat it well. Empty and dry and then add the shellfish and tomato puree. Immediately pour over the hot melted butter, cover and blend at top speed. The butter will cream into a stiff paste in a few seconds. Pour the mixture into a saucepan, heat until the butter has warmed and melted again and then blend again.

Rub the mixture through a very fine sieve and as the butter cools and begins to solidify, beat with a wood spoon, seasoning to taste with salt and white pepper. After solidified the butter may be packed in a container and frozen. Yields about 3/4 cup.

© Daniel Rogov