Everyone agrees that the luxurious dessert named Crepes Suzette was first made by chef Henry Charpentier, but there agreement stops. The most popular tale has it that Charpentier devised the dish to honor a beautiful but otherwise unknown woman named Suzette who accompanied Edward, Prince of Wales, to a dinner party at the Cafe de Paris in Monte Carlo. Another version has it that Suzette was one of Edward's mistresses and the dish was invented in the then fashionable spa of Baden-Baden. Yet another story has Suzette as a well known courtesan for whom Charpentier named the dish when he was head of the kitchen of a well known Paris restaurant.

To each of these versions, however, there is a problem. The prince visited neither Monte Carlo, Paris nor Baden-Baden during the years when Charpentier was there. And, even though he was famous for his peccadilloes, Edward vehemently denied ever knowing anyone by the name of Suzette. Despite this confusion, about ten years after the invention of the dish, Edward, sampled it at London's Savoy and there commented that "a single taste would reform a cannibal into a civilized gentleman."

For the Sauce:

1 tsp. lemon rind, cut very thinly
1 tsp. tangerine rind, cut very thinly (note: although purists may insist to the contrary, orange rind may be substituted)
1 tsp. sugar
2 drops vanilla extract
1/2 cup butter
2 ponies each of Kirsch and Grand Marnier liqueurs

For the Crepes:

2 1/2 cups flour, sifted
pinch of salt
4 whole eggs + 2 egg yolks
1 3/4 cups milk
1 Tbsp. Curacao liqueur
2 drops vanilla extract
1 tbs. butter, heated until light brown
1/4 cup melted butter, for cooking
1/4 cup sugar

In a jar combine the lemon and tangerine rinds with the sugar and vanilla extract. Let stand, tightly covered, for at least 24 but not more than 48 hours.

Prepare the crepes: Sift the flour into a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the salt and then add, one at a time, the whole eggs and egg yolks, working the batter with a wooden spoon until the mixture is well distributed. Add the milk, Curacao, vanilla, and browned butter and work together until the batter is completely smooth. Cover and let stand at room temperature for about 1 hour.

Just before cooking the crepes, check the batter which should have the consistency of light cream, just thick enough to coat a wooden spoon. To cook the crepes, butter a 23 cm. (7 inch) crepe pan or other low heavy skillet of this size with some of the melted butter. Heat just until a drop of batter dropped in the pan sizzles. In order to test the consistency of the batter and check the heat, make a first crepe by pouring 2 - 3 tbs. of the batter into the pan, turning the pan quickly so that the bottom is evenly coated, keeping in mind that the crepes should be extremely thin. Cook over a medium flame until the crepe is browned on the bottom and, with a metal spatula, turn and brown the second side. If the batter is overly thick, thin the mixture by adding milk a teaspoonful at a time.

Proceed to make the remaining crepes, adding butter to the pan only if the crepes begin to stick. If the crepes are to be used immediately they may be piled one on top of the other. If they are to be stored, separate each layer with waxed paper, cover and refrigerate until ready for use. Just before final preparation fold each crepe so that it forms a triangular shape.

Make the sauce: In a heavy skillet melt the butter and, when it begins to bubble add half each of the Kirsch and Grand Marnier. When the mixture is warm carefully flame the liqueurs. As the flame dies down add the lemon and tangerine mixture. Bring the sauce to the boil and into this place the crepes, turning once. Add the remaining liqueurs and carefully flame again.

Serve while flaming.

© Daniel Rogov