In searching for a nominee for the title of France's most important chef, you will have a hard time finding a better candidate than the 17th century chef who called himself Vatel. Even though he was born of Swiss parents, Vatel's culinary territory was the area known as the Valley of The Loire. Known for its exquisite chateaux and gentle countryside, the region is dotted with excellent restaurants. Each of the following will serve food which, although it is more appropriate to modern tastes, is much in the tradition of Vatel's day.

To read more about Vatel and for several of his recipes, click here.

In Blois: The Hostellerie de la Loire, at 9 rue de Mal-de-Lattre-de- Tassigny was made famous by a character in a Balzac novel (The Lily of the Valley) who considered throwing himself off the bridge here. With reliable cuisine and reasonable prices, be sure to try the salmon mousse with sorrel, loin of lamb with spring vegetables, or pike fillet with red butter. Reasonable priced.

In Tours: Restaurant Barrier is one of France's best restaurants and the smoked Loire salmon, roast duck in rose wine sauce, the squab with cabbage and the beef and lamb's tongue with marjoram are nothing shore of miraculous. Do not expect to find a table here without reservations, and don't come unless your wallet is bulging. (Barrier is expensive but fear not, dinner here is worth whatever they charge). Located at 101 ave. de la Tranchee. Do not expect to find a table here without reservations. Phone 54.20.39.

In Chinon: At 31 place du Gal-de-Gaulle, Saint-Maxime's is a simple restaurant offering true, marvelously prepared regional dishes. The sirloin Rabelasien (a classic of the region), calf's sweetbreads with cream and tarragon, and coq au vin de Chinon are all excellent and reasonably priced. Phone 93.05.04.

In Orleans: They say that Jean d'Arc lived within a few meters of the Auberge Saint-Jacques, but this is probably little more than a local folktale. You will get a warm greeting here, whether you are a newcomer or a regular, and the classic dishes are all worth sampling. Try especially the grilled salmon and, if you like game, the pheasant, venison and rabbit a la royale. The desserts here, especially the various crepes that chef Henri Fournier makes, are all marvelous. Not inexpensive, but worth the price. At 4 rue au Lin. Phone 53.63.48.

© Daniel Rogov