The wines of Bordeaux have been world famous since the Roman poet Decimus Magnus Ausonius sang their praises nearly 1700 years years ago. The best wines of the area are often of such extraordinary finesse and quality that kings, princes and the most illustrious gastronomes of Europe have been willing to spend enormous sums for them. A bottle of wine bottled in 1789, the year marking the onset of the French Revolution, was purchased four years ago for more than $180,000 dollars. So prized are some of these wines that for the possession of a single bottle of the wine from Chateau Petrus, one man became a thief, two duels were fought and at least one murder was committed.

Despite their richness in wine and an abundance of exceptionally high quality food products, neither the city nor the region of Bordeaux, which is located in southwest France and stretches towards but never quite reaches the Atlantic ocean, have not always been especially renowned for their cuisine. Even though one of France's greatest chefs, Adolphe Duglere was born here, he left to make his name and fortune in Paris, where he was renowned as the greatest of all of the chefs of the noted Cafe Anglais. Few chefs considered Bordeaux fertile ground for opening great restaurants, and until about twelve years ago, visitors who came to this physically charming land might have mistakenly concluded that although the coarse and rocky soil was ideal for growing the grapes that make such celebrated wines, great restaurants were simply not to be found here.

To understand why Bordeaux changed from a culinary backwater to an exciting dining region, one must understand the phenomenon of chef Jean-Marie Amat, who about a dozen years ago opened his first restaurant in the city and began to attract serious diners from as far away as Paris and Lyon. His current restaurant is the Saint James and it is to this large villa, perched on a green hilltop overlooking the city and wine fields that the owners of some of the best wine producing chateaux come to enjoy the fine culinary life. With the exception of the richest landowners in Bordeaux, no one has a chance of getting a table without a reservation. So loyal, in fact, are the people of Bordeaux to Amat that in 1992 when the Michelin Guide took away one of his stars, they poured in to his restaurant in unprecedented numbers as a show of solidarity.

Despite his success in the gastronomic realm and the adoration of the locals, Amat like many other French owner-chefs has not succeded in making his restaurant profitable. Partially to fulfill a childhood dream and partially to make his investment more profitable, Amat has converted part of the manor house in which the restaurant is located into a hotel. Depending on whom you listen to, however, the hotel, which combines in odd ways a 19th century and a futuristic, deconstructionist decor is either grotesque or charming. Personally, even though I adore Amat's cuisine, I would never dream of staying at the hotel, being quite convinced that sleep would be virtually impossible in this too outre establishment where the rain sounds like bullets as it bounces off the metal skin of the building. Whatever, the 21 room hotel, which was designed by noted French architect Jean Nouvel, has not succeeded from the economic point of view, but three years ago, when Amat opened Le Bistroy, he seems to have finally found the key that would allow him to combine economic freedom and his obvious needs to maintain quality and lose money at his flagship restaurant.

Also designed by Jean Nouvel, Le Bistroy combines the charm of a traditional Bordeaux bistro, a deconstructionist design that rejects both the past and the present alike, and the exquisite cuisine of Amat in a far more relaxed atmosphere and at far more reasonable prices than in the restaurant itself. Since it opened, the restaurant has been one of the most popular eating places in the Bordeaux area, populated during the daylight hours by wine merchants, chateaux owners and businessmen who come to do business over lunch and in the evening by the chic young who flock here to enjoy the food and the easy going ambiance.

Describing Le Bistroy is not easy, but Thomas Matthews of the Wine Spectator did it well when he wrote that it "looks like a cross between an abandoned bath house and a garage where a punk rock band self-destructed. The old tile on the walls is cracked and grimy; the wooden floor is scarred; pipes and wires look slapdash and dangerous". Depending on one's personal aesthetic sense, this is French deconstructionism at its very best or at its very worst.

Even though nearly everyone argues about the merits of the design, no one questions the quality of the food. The menu changes every day, always linking classic dishes with seasonal ingredients. Like the duck pate with foie gras, some of the dishes are completely traditional, but others are Amat's more personal variations on standard themes, such as a cold salad of octopus, scallops and cod fish or the creamy veloute of asparagus. The dishes themselves come from the same kitchen that serves Amat's "Saint James". That the inspectors of the Michelin Guide seem unimpressed by all of this serves as little more than a source of black humor to this writer and nearly all of the others who have visited and dined here.

Even though for many years Amat's Saint James did not succeed from the economic point of view, it made people suddenly aware that excellent cuisine need not be a stranger to Bordeaux, and others, both in the city and surrounding countryside, began to develop restaurants that would tempt not only the local burghers but those from all of France and Europe.

Bordeaux Tendencies

Amat may be the most talented chef in the area but he is not the end of the Bordeaux culinary scene. It was, however, only after Amat paved the way that others began to open restaurants reflecting modern developments in French cuisine. Even though about half of the restaurants in and near the city have been in business for twenty years or longer, the others are relatively new and there is a state of flux in the industry. A glance at either the Gault-Millau Guide or Michelin Guide shows, for example, that only 20% of the restaurants that were considered worthy of listing in 1985 are still listed today, and that nearly half of the restaurants in the 1995 version of these guides are under five years old.

One's study also reveals that nearly all of the most successful restaurants, both economically and quality wise in the area are family owned and operated, following the age-old French pattern of wife or daughter in charge of the "front" and husband and sons in the kitchen. Nor have many of the cooks at these restaurants had formal training, many having worked either in bistros or countryside restaurants and bistros owned by their mothers and fathers before having opened their own establishments. Some of the most successful restaurants are owned and operated by former fishermen, one or two by people brought up in the wine industry, and several by people who have "returned to their roots" after a generation or more of having lived in Paris, Lyon or Avignon. As can be seen by perusing the menus of the most successful restaurants in the area, nearly all, including Amat, ensure that their cuisine reflects the ingredients and cooking styles of the region, frequently modified by their personal input and inspiration.

On the Bordeaux Culinary Style

While it is true that the most stylish chefs have traditionally shunned Bordeaux, many of the dishes served here are part of one of France's richest and most charming provincial cuisines. The raw ingredients are all here. Fine lobsters, oysters and fish from the ocean and rivers are readily available. The fois gras is among the best one will find in France and this is, of course the land of the Perigord truffle. The lamb raised in Pauillac is known to be among the most tender and tastiest in the world and the local butter and cheeses, especially those made from goat's milk are superb. Among those things that make the local cuisine unique is that goose fat is often used for cooking instead of oil and verjuice (the acidic juice of unripe grapes) is commonly substituted tuted for vinegar. Also from here comes the custom of pouring a little red wine into soup to make a chabrot.

So many recipes have been invented here that there are actually four categories of dishes that carry the name "a la Bordelaise". The first relies on the delightful sauce of that name, which is made with wine and bone marrow and the second indicates dishes that contain cepe mushrooms. The third group of dishes with that name is garnished with artichokes and potatoes, and the fourth is served with mirepoix, a mixture of chopped onions, celery and carrots that have been cooked in butter.

Visitors will also quickly note that even though the wines from each of the districts of Bordeaux (Medoc, Haut Medoc, Graves, Sauternes, Pomerol, Saint Emilion, Cotes de Bordeaux, Entre deux-Mers and Cotes de Blaye) are all quite different, the cuisine throughout the area is consistent wherever one travels. Some of the better known regional dishes are lobsters with leeks, sausages with oysters, entrecote a la Bordelaise, Pauillac lamb with parsley and foie gras with grapes. Even though some restaurants are expensive, far more are reasonably priced. Overall it is accurate to state that the restaurants, inns and hotels of Bordeaux are considerably less expensive than those one finds in most of France.

Among The Best Restaurants

The following restaurants, either in the city or within an easy drive are definitely worth visiting. My own favorites are marked with an asterisk (*). For convenience, the restaurants are listed in alphabetic order.

Keep in mind that in addition to an a la carte menu, even the most prestigious of these establishments has a fixed price menu that is considerably less expensive. Also remember that most restaurants in the region are closed on Sunday nights and Monday lunch. Because they are all in the heart of Bordeaux, all have excellent and exciting wine lists, including little known but excellent and reasonably priced wines.

In Bordeaux City

* BISTRO DE SOMEILLIER: 167 rue Georges Bonac. Tel 33 56 96 71. Basic but very well made regional dishes, an an imaginative wine list (many wines can be tasted by the glass). Informal, pleasant atmosphere and a lively crowd. The prices here are unbeatable. Fixed price meals available for FFR 80 and 180.

* LA CHAMADE: 20 rue des Piliers-du-Tutelle. Tel: 56 48 13 74. One of the city's most underrated restaurants. With its vaulted ceilings and lovely pale wood this is a charming, comfortable restaurant and the short, clear menu reflects a captivating cuisine. Try the crayfish fried with a juliennte of fennel;' the calve's liver with tomato sauce and watercress; the lamb chops sauteed with grilled pine nuts; and the tournedos in Graves wines with garlic puree. Menus at 180 (excellent buy) and 300. A la carte from FFR 350 - 500.

LE CHAPON FIN: 5 rue Montesquieu. Telepnone 56 79 10 10. Fax 65 79 09 10. The decor here falls somewhere between rococo and art nouveau in style, but the dishes all reflect an imaginative use of touch of traditional classicism. Try the duo of foie gras; the fillets of sole mariniere; and the pigeon baked in a crust of salt. Menus FFr 180 (lunch), 280 and 450. A la carte FFr 400-700.

* DIDIER GELINEAU: 26 rue Pas-St-George. Tel 56 52 84 25. Fax 56 51 93 25. Set in a small green house in the city's old quarter, this is a simple but unbeatable place for either lunch or dinner. Try especially the roasted salmon with truffles and leeks; and any of the lamb dishes (my own favorite is the the leg of lamb with garlic and mustard sauce. The desserts are all exquisite here. Menu FFR 99 (lunch), 150, 200, 320. A la carte from FFR 250 - 350.

* PAVILLION DES BOULEVARDS: 120 rue Croix-de-Seguey. Tel 56 81 41 02. Fax 56 51 14 58. With an extraordinarily attractive atmosphere and service that is unbeatable in quality, this is the mini-kingdom of chef Regis Franc. Try his duck foie gras with a reduced vinaigrette sauce; his coquilles St Jacques with a sweet pepper reduction; the sturgeon with oyster sauce; and the cote de veau with herbs and verjuice. Menu FFr 200, 300 and 400. A la carte FFR 300 - 500.

LES PLAISIRS D'AUSONNE: 10 rue Ausonne. Tel 56 79 30 30. Fax 56 51 38 16. Charming, attractive and not overly formal, the hotescalope de foie gras, the Saint Peter's fish and lobster; and the bitter almond crepe souffle are absolute musts to try. Menu FFr 150/290. A la carge FFR 250 - 350.

JEAN RAMET: 7 place Jean Jaures. Tel: 56-44-12-51. Fax: 56 52 19 80. In this small, elegant dining room try especially the fish and game specialties. Also consider the smoked foie gras and the gazpacho of red mullet and langoustines. Menus at FFr 150 (lunch), 230 and 280. A la carte from FFR 250 - 350.

* LE ROUZIC: 34 cour de Chapeau-Rouge. Tel: 56 44 39 11. Fax 56 40 65 10. Now in its 10th year and supervised by Michel Gautier, this is a restaurant of elegant decor and creative and original cuisine. Among my favorite dishes are the supreme of young guinea fowl in cabbage leaves, the salad with roast goat and oeufs a la fo? neige (snow eggs) with fruit puree, the smoked eel with pears, 04? the parsley salad with warm oysters and the young rabbit with thyme flowers and braised lettuce. For dessert don't miss the saffron creme or the pears with cinnamon in St. Emillon wine. Fixed price menus at FFR 200 and 460. A la Carte from FFR 320 - 550.

LA TUPINA: 6 rue Porte de la Monnaie. Tel 56 91 56 37. Fax 56 31 92 11. In his rustic but comfortable restaurant, Jean-Pierre Xiridakis has devoted himself in to traditional dishes. Try especially the escargot a la caudernaise, duck rilettes, beef de Bazas, and any of the Pauilliac lamb ishes. Menu FFR 100 (lunch) and 270. A la carte FFr 250 - 350.

* VIEUX BORDEAUX: 27 rue Buhan. Tel: 56 52 94 36 Fax: 56 44 25 11. Michel Bordage (who is Jean-Marie Amat's brother in law) is the talented chef here and his is a carefully prepared, light cui- sine. Try the fresh salmon terrine with lobster sauce; the steamed bass with broad beans and cucumber; the veal sweetbreads with mustard; the young rabbit grilled with thyme fillet; and the lamb with garlic cream. For dessert try the vanilla soup with wild strawberries. Fixed price menus at FFR 160 and 250. A la carte from FFR 230 - 420.

Outside the City

* LE BISTROY: 3 place Camille-Hostein, Bouiliac. Tel: 57 97 06 06. In addition to the dishes listed in the article try also the duck pate; beef onglet (from the diaphragm), with shallots; sweet baba au rhum. A la carte FFr 120 - 220. (Excellent value for money).

* CLAUDE DARROZE: 95 Cours de Generall-Leclerc, Langon (47 kilometers from Bordeaux). Tel: 56.63.00.48. Set in a tranquil provincial square, this rustic open-air cafe attracts locals who come with their familes to dine on Sundays as well as gourmets who come from as far away as a hundred kilometers to eat the simple but marvellous food that is offered. Despite it simplicity, this is a magnificent establishment, serving traditional food prepared in a lively way. Simple and natural and never greasy or heavy, Monsieur Darroze serves excellent fish in tarragon jelly, mar- vellous Pauillac lamb with mushrooms and a puree of three vege- tables. The marquise au chocolate that is offered for dessert is excellent. A fine wine selection and an even better choice of Armagnac for after dinner. Rooms are available for those who wish to spend the night. Reservations recommended. xpensive

* SAINT-JAMES: 3 place Camille-Hostein, Bouiliac (9 kilometers from Bordeaux).Tel: 56 20 52 19. Fax 56 20 92 58. I consider Jean-Marie Amat one of France's most talented chefs and his restaurant one of the best in all of France. Be sure to consider his oysters wrapped in spinach leaves, his green raviolis filled with spinach and green poeppers, his perfect duck foie gras, his splendid leg of Pauillac lamb (cooked until it is almost falling off the bone), the grilled spiced pigeons and some of the exceptionally good goats' milk cheeses. For dessert do not miss the apricot mousse pie. Before ordering your wine, consult with the waiter, because the restaurant has some little known, not too outrageously expen- sive and very exciting Bordeaux wines. Menu FFR 180 and 250. A la Carte FFr 400 - 500. (Excellent value for money).

To explore several Bordeaux recipes, click-here.

© Daniel Rogov