Rogov's Ramblings
Dining in Beaujolais Country

The cuisine of Beaujolais is noted as much for its simplicity as for the use of the high quality raw materials that go into the different dishes that are prepared there. Some of the best known dishes of the region are based on the deer, rabbits and wild mushrooms that are found in abundance in the local woods. Equally well admired are the fish (especially the trout) caught in the local streams and the black truffles that are found in the oak forests.

The restaurants, brasseries and bistros throughout the area tend to be lower priced than one usually anticipates in France and to make them even more attractive, nearly all offer fixed price meals at both lunch and dinner. Following are some of my favorite dining places in the area, each of which is in or near one of the major wine communities.

Le Relais du Maconnais: in the town of La Croix-Blanche, 14 km west of Macon on Route N 79. Telephone 85.36.60.72. If the lovely terrace and view of the view of the nearby mountains and river is not enough to enchant you, the cuisine of Christian Lannuel will certainly seduce you. Try especially his langoustines grilled with herbed butter; his veal steak with truffles; and, for dessert, his marvelous pastries. Prices are reasonable.

Au Rocher de Cancale: 393 quai Jean Jaures, Macon. Telephone 85.38.07.50. Set in a comfortable old house with a warm atmosphere,? this is simple food at its generous best. My own favorites here are the hot sausages served with green lentils and the rabbit with ginger. Prices are reasonable.

Auberge des Sablons: on the main square of the village of Belleville- sur-Saone. Telephone 74.66.34.80. This small, exquisite auberge features marvellous coquilles de St. Jacques in cream sauce and fillet of fish in meuniere butter but my own favorite is the fillet of Charollais beef that is served with morille mushrooms. Prices are moderate.

Faison Dore: Pont Beauregard, Villefranche sur Saone. Telephone 74.65.01.66. Ideal for lunch or dinner, the cooking of Michal Cruz is always a simple but abundant delight. Try especially his duck terrine with truffles and pistachios; his sea food pot-au-feu; and his chicken with cream (Cruz uses only the finest chickens from Bresse). Prices are moderate to high, but very good deals on fixed price lunch and dinners.

Le Coq au Vin: on Place Marche, in Julianas. Telepnone 74.04.41.98. This charming bistro offers excellent cuisine and an excellent selection of wines. Especially recommended are the chicken with pickled onions, veal chops with red and green peppers, the terrine of beef tail, and the chicken with cream sauce. Some say that the tarte tatin here is the best in all of France. Prices are moderate.

Les Maritonnes: in the village of Romaneche-Thorins. Telepnone 85.35.51.70. Whether you visit the "Village of Wine" or not, it is worth coming here to sit in the garden and enjoy the natural, comfortable and generous cuisine and the excellent selection of wines, many of which are served by the glass. Try especially the country-style terrine, the fricassee of chicken with morille mushrooms or the fillet of lamb that has been prepared with homemade cherry vinegar. A la carte meals cost up to FF 450, but excellent fixed price meals are available for FF 150 and 180.

Auberge du Cep: Place Eglise, Fleurie. Telephone 74.04.10.77 A bit overpriced, but by far the best restaurant in the region, this charming establishment, which is situated in a large home, specializes in country-style dishes. Try especially the country style terrine which is accompanied by artichoke hearts and young onions a la greque and the young roast rabbit. After your main course, do not skip the platter of goats' cheeses that is offered. The restaurant is a bit overpriced, but the food is about the best you will find in the region. An a la carte dinner will cost nearly FF 500 per person, but fixed price meals are offered at FF 300.

To read about the wines of Beaujolais, click here.

To read about George DuBoeuf's Beaujolais museum, click here:

© Daniel Rogov

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