To many people, Bordeaux means wine, wine and more wine. Keep in mind that when visiting the area, the city also hosts some truly fine restaurants. While it is true that the most stylish chefs have traditionally avoided the city and area of Bordeaux, the area offers one of France's richest and most charming provincial cuisines. Fine lobsters, oysters and fish from the ocean and rivers are readily available. The lamb raised in Pauillac is known to be among the most tender and tastiest in the world and the local butter and cheeses, especially those made from goat's milk are superb.

Even though some restaurants are expensive, far more are reasonably priced. In fact, it is accurate to state that nearly all of the restaurants, inns and hotels of Bordeaux are considerably less expensive than those one finds in most of France. The following restaurants, all in the city or within an easy drive are each worth visiting. Keep in mind that in addition to an a la carte menu, even the most prestigious of these establishments has a fixed price menu that is considerably less expensive. Also remember that most restaurants in the region are closed on Sunday nights and Mondays. The following list does not include all of the best hotels and restaurants in the Bordeaux area. It does, however, include those that are my personal favorites.

SAINT-JAMES: 3 place Camille-Holstein, Bouiliac (9 kilometers from Bordeaux). Tel: 56 20 52 19. This charming establishment, where talented chef Jean-Marie Amat is in charge of the kitchens is my nominee for the best restaurant in the region. The large villa, perched on a green hilltop overlooks the city of Bordeaux and its surrounding wine fields and hosts the owners of the most famous wine-growing estates in the area.

As appetizers consider the oysters wrapped in spinach leaves, the raviolis filled with spinach and green pepper, and the duck foie gras. My favorite main courses are the Pauillac lamb (marinated in red wine and herbs, rubbed with garlic and then baked until the meat is nearly falling off the bone) and the grilled spiced pigeons. Before ordering your wine, consult with the wait- ter, because the restaurant has some little known, not too expensive and very exciting Bordeaux wines. Very expensive but worth every cent. Reserve at least 24 hours in advance.

L'ETRIER: 20 place Decazes, Libourne (31 km. from Bordeaux). Tel: 56.51.13.59. The peaceful rural atmosphere, the quiet and dignified dining room and the impeccable service and the region- al cooking of Jean-Paul Marion make this one of the most charm- ing restaurants in the area. The warm lobster and mango salad, the ragout of veal kidneys and cepe mushrooms prepared in Pomerol wine, te turbot with tomato sauce and any of the fifteen or so lobster dishes that are offered every day are all worth trying. Be careful here because even though the meals are reasonably priced some of the wines here are enough to make a millionaire worry about the size of his overdraft. Reservations recommended.

LOU PIGNADA: 34 rue Marsan, Bordeaux. Tel: 56.29.31.22. In this simple and unpretentious building, Serge Bordage, a former ship's cook has established a restaurant with an enviable reputation. The rustic decor, including a wood burning fireplace, exposed wood beams and roughly plastered walls, the slow but pleasant service and Bordage's fine skills in the kitchen make this one of the most down-to earth restaurants in the area. The grilled sausage salad and the fillet of trout poached in red wine make marvellous appetizers. The steamed sea bass with beans and cucumbers and the leg of lamb with garlic and parsley are superb for main courses. For dessert be sure to consider the brandy flavored chocolate cake. Moderate prices. Reservations not required.

DUBERN: 42 Allees de Tourney, Bordeaux. Tel: 56.48.93.44. With its Louis XVI style lounges, it would be difficult to find a more charming place in which to dine. In addition to perfect service and an excellent wine cellar, chef Christian Clement assures that the cooking will always be perfect. The homemade foie gras, roast pigeon with truffles, and calves liver with grapes and Armagnac are all to be admired. Also worth trying are the snails which have been sauteed together with bits of bacon, the oysters wrapped in lettuce and served warm in a light lime sorbet. Expensive, but well worth the money. Reservations required.

CLAVEL: 44 rue Charles-Domecq, Bordeaux. Tel: 56.92.91.52. Francis Garcia was born in Barcelona, but is living proof that a Spaniard is perfectly capable of cooking superb French food. In this old building, located across the street from the Saint-Jean train station, he has set up a lovely, modern restaurant where local dishes are the specialty of the house. Duckling with white beans, a multi-layered dish of crepes and ham served with an enriched Bechamel sauce, duck stewed in Bordeaux wine, and his veal fillet Rossini all show a light flirtation with nouvelle cuisine, but this is forgivable because his dishes are always perfect. The wine cellar here is one of the best in the area. Very expensive, but good value for money. Reservations required.

PERIGORD SAINT-JEAN: 202 course de la Marne, Bordeaux Tel: 56.91.42.80. It would be a shame to pass by this little restaurant. Even though the twelve tables are packed tightly together in a rather ordinary dining room, locals know that they can always rely on owner-chef Jacques Biard to give them a marvelous meal. The stuffed mussels, lobster fricassee, chicken cooked in Sauterne wine and preserved goose are all marvelous examples of the regional cuisine. Do not order wine by the bottle here because the house wines served in pitchers are excellent and inexpensive. Reasonable prices. Reservations suggested.

CLAUDE DARROZE: 95 Cours de Gal-Leclerc, Langon (47 kilometers from Bordeaux). Tel: 56.63.00.48. Set in a tranquil provincial square, this rustic open-air cafe attracts locals who come with their families to dine on Sundays as well as gourmets who come from as far away as a hundred kilometers to eat the simple but marvel- lous traditional food that is offered. The fish in tarragon jelly is my favorite appetizer here, the Pauillac lamb with mushrooms makes a marvelous main course and the marquise au chocolate that is offered for dessert is excellent. Rooms are available for those who wish to spend the night. Reservations recommended. Prices reasonable.

© Daniel Rogov