If French statesman Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Perigord was correct in his assumption that "the fate of nations depends on what diplomats eat", one may be fully optimistic about the future of Spain. Let it be known, purely and simply that in addition to being the capital of Spain, Madrid is one of the great culinary capitals of the world..

Although there are enormous differences in the culinary styles of the various provinces of Spain, nearly all Spanish cooking shares several traits. Wherever one goes, veal, lamb and pork are the most popular meats, olive oil is almost always used for cooking and wine is an accompaniment to all meals. All of the Spanish are inordinately fond of garlic and eggs, have a passion for lobsters, shrimps and snails, love cured ham, use ground almonds in cooking, adore the spicy garlic-flavored chorizo sausage and use saffron to season many of their foods. Because Madrid is so important a social and culinary center, in addition to finding food typical of Castilla, the province in which Madrid lies, one will also find restaurants specializing in the foods of Galicia, Valencia, Barcelona and the Basque country.

The most fascinating dining experiences will be found in Old Madrid, where the city retains much of the physical appearance it has had since the 16th century. Even today, the enticing aromas of roast lamb and suckling pig waft through the cobbled streets and in a large collection of rustic bars and taverns, one will find an enormous array of tapas or appetizers available, almost always at reasonable prices. It is not at all difficult to go along with the local custom of meeting friends twice a day to have a glass of wine or beer, sample tapas and discuss the issues of the day.

Visitors will find that Spanish menus are built differently than those they have become used to. Rather than being divided into appetizers and main courses, most menus are broken into categories such as meats, poultry, game, fish, vegetables, eggs and rice, enabling diners to choose what pleases them for each course. Whatever is on the menu, however, the most popular dish in Madrid is the famous Cocido Madrelino, a classic stew that consists of staggering amounts of beef, chicken, ham, bacon, sausages, chickpeas and vegetables.

For a recipe for this delicious dish, click here.

Madrid Restaurants Worth Trying

MESON DE DON PEDRO: Tucked away on dimly lit Don Pedro Street in Old Madrid, this old rustic tavern was built on the site of a well known restaurantt that burned down more than a century ago. It was in the older tavern that the painter Francisco de Goya was stabbed by a jealous husband. An charming and relatively inexpensive place for a snack or a full meal, be sure to try the cocido, fried fish and sausage rolls here.

BAR GAYANGO: Located at calle Nuñur de Arche, this may be the finest tapas bar in all of Madrid, with no less than seventy-five tapas available at all times. The owner of the bar, Carlos Aldana, is one of the most popular men in Madrid, and he never passes up the chance to discuss food, football or Spanish art with his customers.

BAR 15 DE CASCORRO: The name of this tapas bar is also its address. Located in the heart of Madrid's flea market, the speciality here is snails with chorizo sausage. Many Spaniards say that the owner, who uses only his first name, Amadeo, has a mysterious connection with the underworld that allows him to find the best snails in all of Spain.

LHARDY: Some visitors to Madrid think it is difficult to find this restaurant. That may be because the restaurant is on a street with no name and in a building with no number. Despite that drawback, every hotel porter and taxi driver in the city knows exactly where it is and will be glad to point you in the right direction. The first floor of this luxurious restaurant, now in its 90th year of serving superb food, is a tapas bar. Everything, including the soup and wine, both of which are dispensed from antique silver tureens, is given on the honor system and one is expected to tell the waiter precisely what they ate before they leave. Some people cheat but they will never be allowed in again. The second floor houses one of the most luxurious restaurants in Europe and one look at the elegant chandeliers, mirrored walls, antique display cases and 17th century oil paintings lets you know that you will be spending a great deal of money (dinner for two will average $250). A single taste of anything served here proves, however, that your money is being well spent.

MALLORCA: At 15 Valazques Street, this small store is a pastry shop, bakery, delicatessen, wine store, cheese shop and tapas bar all in one, and everything they have here is superb. The most fashionable people in Madrid come here and it is worth visiting to sample the crab salad, caviar canapes, smoked trout, chorizo sausage in pastry, and veal pies. If you want to bring Spanish wines home, the selection here is excellent and the prices are remarkably reasonable.

© Daniel Rogov