Johri's Talvo: Set in a 17th century farmhouse and located in the nearby village of Champfer, this is by far the best restaurant in the area. Roland Johri is an extremely talented chef, and among the dishes I most recommend are his fillets of trout on a salad of pasta and asparagus, the soup of white beans with local sausages, the chicken breasts stuffed with truffles and wild rice, and the duckling baked in a thick crust of salt. Fixed price meals are available for SFr 140 - 190, and a la carte meals will cost about SFr 225 - 300 per person. Those prices are high, but the meals, like the restaurant are extraordinary and deserve to be tried. Reservations required. Telephone: (082) 3 44 55.

Chesa Veglia: via Veglia 2. Entering this 1658 stone, stucco and wood building through its massive arched oak door is a treat. There are three restaurants housed here - the Chadafo Grill, where meats are cooked over open wood fires, the Patrizier-Stube that serves regional specialties, and the Hayloft, which is a pizzeria. The first two are expensive but the pizzeria is very moderately priced. The dishes offered in all are excellent. Reservations suggested. Telephone: (082) 2 11 01.

La Marmite: Corviglia Bergstation. Set high in the mountains and reachable only by funicular, the unbeatable view makes this is a delightful place for lunch. Try especially the meat soup, or the duck liver with truffles. If you are in a wealthy mood, ask for the six course caviar menu. The dessert buffet here is one of the best in Europe. Expensive. Reservations not required. Telephone: (082) 3 63 55.

The Grill Room: Badrutt's Palace Hotel. This posh and luxurious restaurant features green and gold baroque decor in a high-ceilinged room and among the best offerings are artichoke and truffle salad, shellfish terrine with smoked salmon, lobster in a sauce that is made with 35 year old cognac, fettuccini with foie gras and poached quail with grapes. Here, as everywhere else in the hotel, men are expected to wear jacket and tie. Reservations required. Telephone: (082) 2 11 01. Very, very expensive.

The Trattoria: Hotel Steffani, Sonnenplatz 1. The ambiance of warm, wood-lined decor and the excellent service make this a pleasant place in which to dine on tagliatelle Alfredo, chicken chasseur with polenta, goat meat with rosemary, or any of the trout dishes offered. Moderately priced. Reservations not required. Telephone: (082) 21 21 01.

Hanselmann, via Maistra 8. Open since 1855, this tavern and tea- 0IË room is one of the best and one of the most reasonably priced places in town for breakfast or lunch. The cuisine is traditional Swiss. Try especially the country platter piled high with Black Forest sausages and Valais rye rolls, and the Welsh Rarebit that is served with smoked salmon and buttered toast. Reservations not required. Telephone: (082) 3 38 64.

Restaurant Steinbock, Steinbock Hotel, via Serias 27. A family 0eË style restaurant serving excellent Swiss dishes. Try especially the carpaccio of beef, the veal cutlets, the meat stuffed raviolis, and any of the meat pies. Prices are reasonable. Reservations not required. Telephone: (082) 2 22 72.

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© Daniel Rogov