Time has not been entirely fair to the reputation of Attila the Hun. A descendant of the wandering tribes of Mongolia, the oldest son of Mundzuk, and probably born in Hungary, Attila became king of the Huns and assumed the title "The Scourge of God" in 445 A.D. From that moment on his was a name associated with cruelty, violence and vindictiveness. A large part of this reputation was earned. His conquest of central and eastern Europe was especially harsh. Famed for burning entire cities and publicly humiliating kings and ambassadors, Attila also crucified thousands of people he considered dangerous.

Clinging tightly to their image of Attila as the "barbarian par-excellence", historians have largely chosen to ignore the fact that Attila was also considered a consummate diplomat, a staunch friend and an adoring husband. And, even though many letters and diaries exist from people who visited him, modern writers have also overlooked the fact that Attila was a superb host.

About five years after Attila became king, a group of ambassadors, from Germany, Scandanavia, the Baltic states and the eastern and western parts of the Roman empire came to visit his camp. Priscus, the spokeman of the western empire but today known more as an historian than a diplomat, wrote that when they that the guests entered Attila's tent at about three in the afternoon they were surprised to find the floors of the tent covered with beautiful carpets. As each visitor entered he was greeted with a cup of wine with which to honor the god of his choice. After they had sipped the wine, guests were allowed to make their way to the couch on which Attila was seated, there to exchange gifts. Some were even encouraged to embrace him.

There were no tables in the room, but seats had been arranged on either side of the tent and, after greeting Attila, each guest was shown to his assigned seat. Attila himself sat on a soft couch centered near the rear wall on which were hung drapes made of fine linen. After each of the guests had been seated, Attila was offered a bowl of wine and drank a toast to whomever he had selected to be his guest of honor. After each of the visitors had sipped from his own cup, Attila greeted them, each by name, asking them for details about their families and their health. After these social amenities, servants carried in tables. A small table was put in front of Atilla and slightly larger tables, large enough to hold food for three or four were set in front of groups of the guests. Attila's personal servant entered the room with a plate full of meat for his master.

As soon as Attila had tasted the food, other servants entered with plates full of meat, vegetables and bread for the guests. Such meals were lavish, enormous amounts of food and wine being served to the guests on gold or silver platters and in goblets that were inlaid with rubies, emeralds and other precious stones. Attila himself was more modest in his dining habits. As part of his self-discipline he ate only meat and drank only the simplest of wines. Unlike the luxurious plates and cups from which his guests ate and drank, Attila insisted that his own plates and goblets be made of undecorated wood.

When the food was finished, each of the guests got up and drank a full cup of wine that was handed him, proposing a toast to Attila's health. The guests were seated again, and more food was brought to the tables. This eating and toasting pattern repeated itself until well after midnight, interrupted only when several of Attila's soldiers entered to sing songs telling of their leader's victories and valor in war. Other popular entertainments centered about storytellers who, as Priscus wrote "were crazy fellows who told a lot of strange and completely false stories, not a word of truth in them, which made all of the guests laugh." Another guest at this occasion, Berichos of Scythia, observed that Attila himself "remained impassive during the entertainment. Neither by word or gesture did he seem to share in the merriment. It seems as if he was more intent on observing us, his guests".

Attila fed his guests handsomely, primarily with roast meat, stewed and raw vegetables, huge breads and thick, sweet puddings. His own eating habits were far more simple, and many documents written during his lifetime testify to the fact that Attila dined exclusively on roast meat. Although he occasionally ate a lemon, the Scourge of God never tasted bread. The following dish, based on a description by Priscus, is said to have been served frequently at Attila's feasts. In much the same form, the dish remains popular today in places as diverse in culinary character as Italy, Greece, Hungary, Norway and France.


Roast Lamb

1 leg of young lamb, about 2 1/2 kilos
3 Tbsp. rendered chicken fat
1/2 teaspoon paprika
salt and pepper to taste
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 cups chicken stock
2 Tbsp. vinegar
6 slices bacon, chopped
2 sprigs parsley
2 - 3 garlic cloves, whole
1 bay leaf
juice of 1 lemon
1/4 tsp. each rosemary, oregano, cumin


Rub the lamb well with the chicken fat and then sprinkle the meat with the paprika and salt and pepper. Rub with the crushed garlic, transfer the meat to a roasting pan and roast in a very hot oven for 15 minutes, turning once.

While the lamb is roasting combine the remaining ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the oven temperature to medium, pour over 1/2 cup of the liquids and continue roasting, allowing a total cooking time of about 35 minutes per kilo and basting every 10 minutes with more of the liquids. When the roast is done remove to a platter to keep warm. Transfer the roasting pan to the top of the stove and, bring to a boil, scraping the sides and bottom of the pan. Discard the whole garlic cloves, bay leaf and parsley, season the liquids to taste with salt and pepper and serve this pan gravy in a sauceboat. (Serves 6).

© Daniel Rogov