Rogov's Ramblings
Dining With Escoffier

Be there no question that no chef in the last two centuries has attained the justified glory earned by Auguste Escoffier. Following are recipes for several of his dishes. Because many of the great chef's creations involved 12 - 18 hours of work, these recipes were modernized by Guy Legay when he was the chef de cuisine at the Espanade Restaurant in Paris' Ritz Hotel.

To read more about Escoffier and his connection with Cesar Ritz and the Ritz hotels,
click here.

Quail with Grapes

2 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. peanut or safflower oil
6 quails, trussed (can substitute Cornish Game Hens)
1/4 tsp. thyme
1/4 tsp. marjoram about
1 tsp. salt pepper to taste
2 medium onions, sliced thinly
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped
3 stalks celery, without leaves, chopped
1 kilo tomatoes, peeled and chopped coarsely
3/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 kilo white grapes, skinned and seeded

In a flameproof casserole heat the butter and oil together and in this brown the quails well on all sides. Remove the birds from the casserole and season them well with the thyme, marjoram and salt and pepper to taste.

In the fat of the casserole saute the onion, garlic and celery for about 5 minutes, not letting them brown. Add the tomatoes to the pan. On the tomato mixture place the quails on their sides. Cover and bake in a medium oven (180 degrees Celsius for about 20 minutes. Turn the quails and continue baking until tender (20 - 30 minutes longer). Remove the quails from the sauce and set aside to keep warm.

Pour the vegetables and juices in the casserole into a blender and blend into a smooth puree. Return this puree to the pan and cook over a medium flame until it has reduced and thickened (about 10 minutes). Add the wine and continue to cook, scraping the pan and stirring regularly for 5 minutes. Add the grapes and continue cooking and stirring gently for 5 minutes longer. Place the quails on a large preheated serving platter and pour over the sauce with the grapes. Serve at once. (Serves 6).

Note: The above recipe can also be made with mini-sized chickens or game hens.

Duckling with Peaches

2 medium onions, sliced thinly
2 large carrots, sliced thinly
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. thyme, chopped finely
1 bay leaf, crushed
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 duckling, about 2 1/2 kilos, well cleaned
2 Tbsp. peach brandy
2 Tbsp. dry white wine
1/2 cup game or chicken stock
2 tsp. corn flour (cornmeal)
8 large peaches
salt and pepper to taste

Cover the bottom of a roasting pan with the onion and carrot slices. Mix together the parsley, thyme, bay leaf and garlic and spread these over the onions and carrots. On this place the duck and place in an oven that has been preheated to very hot (235 Celsius). Immediately reduce to a medium heat (180 Celsius) and cook until the duck is tender, pricking the skin often to allow excess fat to escape. (Allow about 45 minutes cooking time per kilo).

Remove the duck from the pan and set aside to keep warm. Remove the vegetables from the pan and drain off the excess fat. To the remaining liquids add the brandy, wine and stock. Add the corn- flour and over a medium flame stir until thickened. Bring to a rapid boil and then strain.

Peel the peaches, halve them and remove the pits. Arrange the peach halves in a heavy skillet and pour over just enough of the gravy to moisten them and cover the bottom of the skillet. Bring to a low boil and simmer for 4 - 5 minutes, turning the peaches once or twice. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the peach halves around the duck and pour over a small amount of the gravy. Serve the remaining gravy in a sauce boat. (Serves 4 - 6).

Crepes Queen Mary

For the Crepes:
200 gr. flour
pinch of salt
2 cups milk
4 eggs
1/2 cup clarified butter, melted

For the Filling and Sauce:
250 gr. butter, at room temperature
the peel of 2 oranges, grated and then finely minced
about 1/4 cup of orange juice, strained
1/2 cup Cointreau or Grand Marnier liqueur
1/4 cup Cognac
1/2 cup each sugar and pulverized almonds
1/4 tsp. almond extract

Make the Crepes: Sift the flour into a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the salt and half the milk. Gradually whisk the flour to make a smooth batter and then whisk in the eggs. Stir in 2 Tbsp. of the melted butter and half the remaining milk. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 1 - 2 hours. Just before cooking stir in enough of the remaining milk to make the batter the consistency of thin cream.

Brush a 18 cm crepe pan or other similar sized skillet with some of the clarified butter. Heat until a drop of batter dropped in the pan sizzles. Pour 2 - 3 tbsp. of the batter into the pan, turning the pan quickly so that the bottom is coated evenly. Cook over a medium flame until the crepe is browned on the bottom and then, with a metal spatula, turn and brown the second side. Turn the finished crepe onto a plate.

Continue the process with the remaining batter, adding butter only if the crepes begin to stick to the pan. If the crepes are to be used immediately they may be piled on one top of the other. If they are to be stored, separate each layer with wax paper, cover and refrigerate.

Make the filling and sauce: In a mixing bowl cream together the softened butter and the minced orange peel. Add half the sugar, the pulverized almonds and 2 Tbsp. of the Cointreau and cream together until a thick cream is formed. If the mixture is too thick to be spread easily, add orange juice as necessary.

On the less evenly cooked side of each crepe spread the orange butter. Roll the crepes individually and arrange in a baking dish. Cover with waxed paper and refrigerate until ready for use.

Immediately before serving sprinkle the crepes with the remaining sugar and place in a medium hot oven (190 degrees Celsius) until the dish is very hot and the crepes are beginning to caramelize on top.

Just before the crepes are ready, heat the remaining Cointreau, the almond extract and the Cognac together in a small saucepan. To serve, pour the warm liqueurs over the hot crepes and, taking care, flame the crepes and bring them flaming to the table. Tilt the dish and spoon the liqueurs over the crepes until the flames are extinguished. Serve immediately. (Serves 6 - 8).

 

© Daniel Rogov

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