There are several things that make the wines of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti special and at least in my opinion worth the sometimes astronomical prices they demand. Located in Cote de Nuits district of Burgundy in the village of Vosne-Romanee, the Domaine was given its name by the Prince of Conti who insisted that the wines produced there be "nothing but the most exquisite that France is capable of". When the French talk about terroir, this is invariably one of the locations they refer to, for the location, the soil, and the microclimate seem attuned to producing grapes that will yield wines that are opulent and exquisite.

Even today, the grapes are picked quite late in the season, sometimes even well into the autumn when they risk the dangers of rain and wind storms. What this means in part is that any damaged grapes are discarded and not used in the wines. After picking, the wine goes through an unusually long fermentation period, almost never than three weeks and sometimes as many as thirty days. Only new barrels are used every year, and the wines go through minimal racking and filtration.

That the wines of the Domaine are often superb is beyond question and to add to their price, the wines are produced in relatively small quantities. Of the different wines there are La Romanee-Conti de la Domaine de la Romanee-Conti (7000 bottles annually); La Tache (24,000 bottles); Grands-Echezeaux (14,000 bottles); Echezeaux (18,500 bottles); Romanee St. Vivant (14,000 bottles) and Le Montrachet (about 3,000 bottles). Of these 50% are exported to the United States; 10% to Great Britain; 5% each to Germany, Switzerland and Japan; and 5% to other countries. Only 20% of the wines are actually sold in France. This does not mean that the French do not admire these wines. They do. It is simply that there are fewer millionaires per capita population than in other countries!

As to whether I consider them "worth the money". As I said earlier - absolutely! The only problem of course is that most of us simply do not have enough of the required cash or credit to buy them.

Two side notes: (1) As readers will see, this tasting included the wines of 1995, 1996 and 1998. At a tasting of wines as superb as these no-one (believe me, absolutely no-one) would have the chutzpah to ask why we weren't given the '97s to sample as well; and (2) Forgive me, please for not using the often accepted DRC abbreviation for the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. I simply respect the wines far too much to use abbreviations!

1995

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee-Conti, 1995: To paraphrase a line from a bad movie: "What can you say about a love so great…..". Let's not kid ourselves, this is as close to heaven as most of us will ever get in our lives. Not only full bodied, but out and out dense and heavy, this remarkably powerful, deep and concentrated wine has such complex flavors and aromas that it made me think of the Rorshach test, yielding both conscious and unconscious sensations as it unfolded both in the glass and on the palate. With not apologies, I found here black cherry, red currants, and cassis, and after those porcini mushrooms, violets, tar, tobacco and plums, sometimes this one dominating, sometimes that. Drinking beautifully now but the wine will cellar very well until 2020. Alas, at almost $3,000 per bottle now, this is not a wine I am destined to drink very often. Score 99.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, La Tache, 1995: Superb in every way, this deep purple-red, full bodied wine is so well balanced that it is difficult to find any fault in it whatever. Plenty of smooth tannins here along with perfectly proportioned oak and ripe black cherry, raspberry and plum flavors. A beautiful hint of earthiness sneaks in as the wine lingers on the palate. And believe me, when you talk about a wine lingering, this one does….. on and on and on. About $525 in the U.S.A. Score 97.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg, 1995: Richebourg at its very best! Full bodied, tannic and powerful but remarkably elegant, with layer after layer of red and black currants, spicy berry and violet flavors and aromas, all unfolding to reveal generous hints of spring flowers and tar. The wine is drinking beautifully now but should cellar very nicely indeed until 2020 - 2025. Alas, but at the going price of about US500 in the U.S.A., few of us can buy enough to open a bottle every year to follow its development. Worth taking a second mortgage …. Well, that's entirely up to you. Score 97.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Echezeaux, 1995: Full bodied, remarkably complex and elegant, you will find layer after layer here of blackberries, violets, rose water, spicy oak and coffee flavors here. With tannins that are beautifully integrated the wine is drinking well now and promises to cellar well until 2010 - 2012. About US$225 in the U.S.A. Score 93.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Grand Echezeaux, 1995: If ever a wine deserved to be called "fat", this is the one. Full bodied and with still firm tannins, the wine boasts delicious black berry, dark cherry and plum aromas, all with delicious overlays of coffee and chocolate and just the right hint of spiciness.
Elegant and rich, the wine is already drinking nicely but should cellar well for another decade. About $US 200 in the U.S.A. Score 92.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee-St. Vivant, 1995: Medium to full bodied, and with remarkable richness, this deep royal purple wine shows a fabulous aromas and flavors of black cherries, red currants, rosewater, all with light earthy-leathery overtones. Rich and delicious but faulted only in that the flavors fail to linger very long. Drink now - 2010. Score 91.

1996

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee-Conti, 1996: Deep purple, with orange and ruby reflections, this full bodied and concentrated wine can be thought of as nothing but a masterpiece! An abundance of black fruits and wild berries here, all complemented by herbal, spice, minerals and oaky flavors and aromas, all just with the right level of earthiness and spiciness to enchant. Structure that is enormous, but such fine balance that despite its heaviness, the wine shows great elegance. This is a "wine for the ages" and although approachable now it will cellar beautifully until 2040 - 2050 or longer. Score 99.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, La Tache, 1996: From time to time I want to break out in tears at a wine that costs about US$1000 per bottle, not because the wine is not worth the price but because I simply cannot afford to buy two cases, to open a bottle every year and follow its development. So it is with this fabulous La Tache. Try this one in two different glasses - the first a traditional Burgundy balloon and the second a Bordeaux glass to see the difference In the first you will find a nose of plums, blackberries, prunes and meat; in the second red and black cherries, raspberries and remarkably sweet stewed fruit aromas. Forget games though, and then go on to drink, there no matter in what glass to find exquisite balance and elegance in a full bodied, almost thick wine. From first impression to midpalate and then to the long aftertaste, you will find plenty of sweet oak, toasted bread, berry and cherry flavors. Drink from 2005 until 2025-2030. Score 98.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg, 1996: Another stunning wine from 1996. Spicy and powerful but with notable elegance, this medium to full bodied wine has plum, blueberry, strawberry and cherry aromas and flavors, tannins that are smooth and soft, and flavors that linger beautifully. A wine that can be approached in its youth (that is to say, until its 10th birthday) or cellared nicely until 2025 - 2030. Score 97.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee-St. Vivant, 1996: Powerful but with enormous depth, complexity and elegance, this medium to full bodied is still surprisingly closed but even in this youthful state shows its tremendous potential. One of the very few wines I would decant (at this stage of its life) in order to let it open a bit more quickly to show its spicy black fruit, rosewater, mocha and light earthiness. My advice - start drinking this one only in 2008 and then look forward to fine cellaring until 2030 - 2035. A coup de force. Score 96.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Echezeaux, 1996: Deep ruby in color, this round, perfectly balanced medium bodied wine is still remarkably young. Not to fear, however, for when this one opens it will reveal black cherry, red currants, and berry fruits, all coming together beautifully with silky tannins, oak and spices, a remarkably smooth texture and flavors that linger beautifully. By error, (thank heavens for occasional errors) this wine sat in its glass on my tasting table overnight and the following morning showed almost exquisitely sweet fruits. A wine to follow as it develops over the next 20 - 30 years!!! About US$250 in the U.S.A. Score 95.

1998

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee-Conti, 1998: A wine that can be faulted only because it has the bad fortune to follow the incomparable wines of '95 and '96. Full bodied and with ample red fruit, rosewater, toasted almonds and smoky wood in its flavors and aromas. With some confusion still between the wood and the tannins and an almost sweet aftertaste, this is a wine to hold at least until 2008 before starting to drink it. About US$2800 in the U.S.A. The wine should cellar well for 30- 40 years. Score 94.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, La Tache, 1998: Medium to full bodied, still remarkably young and closed but already revealing its future charms. As this one develops look for a remarkably complex nose that will contain, among other things, black and red cherries, wild berries, mint, minerals and spices along with generous hints of earthiness and leather. The tannins in this one will make it drinkable only starting in about 2008, but the wine will cellar nicely until 2025 - 2030. Score 94.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg, 1998: With depth and complexity but with tannins already smooth, this beautifully structured medium to full bodied wine has ample currant, black cherry, chocolate and leathery aromas and flavors, all coming together beautifully. Best drinking 2005 - 2025.
About US$320 in the U.S.A.Score 94.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Grands Echezeaux, 1998: Medium to full bodied, and with youthful but approachable youth, this deep ruby and just acidic enough red wine has appealing flavors and aromas of black cherries, berries, cranberries and violets. Enjoyable even now, but the wine will be at its best from about 2004 --2012. About $US 225 in the U.S.A. Score 92.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee St. Vivant, 1998: Full bodied and with good balance and structure, this deep ruby red wine has an abundance of smoky fruits all coming together nicely with earthy-leathery aromas and flavors. Perhaps not as complex or as long as one might hope for from such a dignified wine. Drink 2003 - 2012. About US$315 in the U.S.A. Score 92.

Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Echezeaux, 1998: Lots of fruit, nut, coffee and leather aromas and flavors here but perhaps these lean just a bit too strongly to the earthy side. Still tannic and with plenty of acidity. Some say the wine will open by 2004- 2005. Personally, I doubt it. About US$155 in the U.S.A. Score 88.

© Daniel Rogov