Somewhere during the heyday of the flappers, those young women who considered themselves so bold and daring during the 1920's, the rage at dance parties became something called Pink Champagne. Nothing could have given Champagne a worse name, for the probability is that the terrible half-sweet half coarse stuff that the flappers and their equally bold and daring dates were drinking had nothing whatever to do with France. If it did, it certainly had nothing in common with the great wine we know as Champagne, and was probably nothing more than a rose d'Anjou or far worse, a California bootleg "Burgundy" (remember, Prohibition lasted in the United States from 1920 - 1933, so the legitimate sale of wine was illegal) to which bubbles had been added by pumping in ample amounts of carbon dioxide.

Responding to all of this, producers in the vicinity of Reims and Epernay began to realize that there might be money to be made in giving the world a true Champagne that was truly pink. If the truth be told, the first rose Champagnes (call it pink Champagne in France and you will probably be deported within hours and without ceremony) were not very good, made largely by adding cheap Pinot Noir to standard Champagnes in order to give them their pink-orange color. Starting only in the 1960s did rose Champagne attain its legitimate place in the repertoire of winemakers, and today some of the very best Champagnes are brut roses. Rose Champagne is made in one of two ways - the very best method being to allow the must (juice if one prefers) remain in contact with the skins of the Pinot Noir grapes used for several hours during the initial fermentation process in order to allow the color to develop and then making the wine in full accordance with the methode Champenoise. The second method, perhaps a bit less purist, but not really objectionable is to add a bit of high quality Pinot Noir to the wine before it starts on its way to the second fermentation in the bottle.

I recently attended a tasting of twenty-one rose Champagnes. Interestingly (and perhaps even a bit amusingly), the tasting took place not in Epernay or Reims but in the first class lounge of a hospitable airline at John F. Kennedy Airport in New York during the hours between a flight from Milano and another to San Francisco. All of the wines reviewed were tasted on 29 May 2002. For convenience sake, I have listed the Champagne houses in alphabetical order. Prices are based on an average of three stores in New York City.

Autreau, Brut Rose, 1er Cru, n.v.: Appealing pink to orange in color, with plenty of cherries and minerals and hints of raspberries and cranberries, this most pleasant wine has well focused, long lasting bubbles and a generous long lasting mousse. Crisp, clean and refreshing. Not meant for long term cellaring. $US 43. Score 88.

Beaumont des Crayeres, Fleur de Rose, 1995: Deep salmon pink in color, this more than usually full bodied wine has delicious black fruit and mocha flavors that call to mind the Pinot Noir that was part of the blend. The wine has sharp, concentrated, long lasting bubbles, but has a rather stingy mousse. This is forgivable though considering the good levels of yeasty flowers and leather that arise on the long finish. $US 37. Score 90+.

Beaumont des Crayeres, Cuvee Rose Privilege, n.v.: Light to medium bodied, this deep salmon colored wine has lots of red fruit to offer along with aromas and flavors of toasted bread and yeast.
Light and lively, with sharp, long lasting bubbles. Meant for drinking in its youth. US$ 35. Score 87.

Billecart-Salmon, Brut Rose, n.v: Pink towards orange in color depending on how you hold it to the light, this medium to full bodied wine offers up a generous mouthful of red fruits that are complemented nicely by earthy, yeasty aromas. A traditional style, much to be envied during a day when many Champagne houses are seeking to appeal to the "internationalized palate". $US 52. Score 91.

Bollinger, Brut Rose, 1988: Medium to full bodied, this bright salmon colored wine is rich in citrus and red fruit flavors. Long lasting, concentrated bubbles, a generous mousse and plenty of acidity to keep the wine clean and refreshing through its long finish. $US 65. Score 90+.

Rene Collard, Cuvee Rose Brut, 1988: Pale salmon-orange in color, this medium bodied wine seems somewhat austere at first sip but don't let that deceive you, for as the wine literally explodes on the palate it reveals exquisite dried cherry, citrus peel and spice flavors along with tempting light earthy and yeasty aromas. Remarkably long lasting bubbles and an even more remarkably long finish. $US 70. Score 94.

Gosset, Grand Rose Brut, n.v.: The color of burnished copper, this remarkably full bodied Champagne has generous flavors and aromas of citrus, wild berries and light yeastiness. A long lasting mousse, and concentrated bubbles that last on and on, this is a non-vintage wine that will cellar very nicely for 5 - 8 years. US$ 75. Score 92.

Gosset, Grand Rose, 1988: Salmon orange, this medium to full bodied wine fascinates on the palate by the interchange of flavors and aromas of dried fruits, fresh citrus and citrus peel, and red berries. Lots of minerals, minimal yeast, plenty of acidity and both bubbles and flavors that go on and on very nicely indeed. Drink now or cellar for another 8 - 10 years. US$ 65. Score 93+.

Heidsieck Monopole, Diamant Rose, 1998: Deep and bright golden or orange in color, depending on how you hold it to the light, this highly traditional Champagne offers up aromas and flavors of caramelized fruits, coffee and leather. Medium to full bodied, with a low mousse but concentrated, long lasting bubbles and flavors that linger beautifully, this may be the best Rose Champagne ever made.
Drinking beautifully now but the wine will cellar nicely until 2008 - 2010. US$ 70. Score 96+.

Krug, Rose, n.v.: In addition to the usual Pinot Noir and Chardonnay found in most rose Champagnes this one also contains Pinot Meunier grapes. Crisply dry, medium to full bodied and with remarkable balance and structure, there are generous hints of toasted rye bread, coffee and yeast here, all of which linger beautifully. Drink now or in the next five years. US$ 210. At various times during its history, this wine has earned scores of anywhere from 92 - 98. This release earns a 95.

Lanson, Brut Rose, n.v.: Pale orange, with generous hints of dark fruits and grapes and excellent concentration, this full bodied, only moderately yeasty Champagne has a generous mousse, concentrated bubbles that linger nicely and a sense of undeniable elegance. Drink now or in another 3 - 4 years. US$55.00. Score 91.

Comte de Lantage, Brut Rose, n.v.: So pink that it is almost ruby red, this medium bodied wine has plenty of raspberries, cherries and toasted bread aromas and flavors. A good mousse, but bubbles that are a bit too "fat" and tend to dissipate too quickly. Mostly for those who like their roses on the very, very fruity side. US$ 32. Score 86.

J. Lassalle, Brut Rose, Reserve des Grandes Annees, 1er Cru, n.v.: A medium to full bodied wine that you will swear was hand-crafted. Deep orange with ruby and green reflections, and with such an array of nutty, buttery, yeasty and spicy aromas and flavors, you don't even miss the lack of fruit. Crisply dry, with concentrated, long lasting bubbles and a generous mousse, this is a wine to drink now or in the next decade. US$ 55. One that you will either love or hate, but so good that it deserves its score of 96.

Laurent-Perrier, Cuve Rose Brut, n.v.: Deep orange, with red tints, this medium bodied and remarkably creamy wine offers up generous strawberry and toasted bread aromas, all with just the right hint of yeast. Long lasting bubbles and a long aftertaste in which you will feel hints of citrus peels and spring flowers. Delicious now or in the next five - six years. $US 60. Score 91.

Mumm, Brut Rose, Cordon Rose, n.v.: Always reliable but never overly exciting, this medium bodied, crisply dry wine offers up generous citrus and toasty flavors and aromas. Not a wine for those seeking the unusual but for those who want a youthful, well structured wine, perhaps ideal. $US 35. Score 87.

Philipponnat, Reserve Rose, n.v.: Golden towards pale salmon in color, this medium to full bodied wine has elegant, creamy and vibrant flavors and aromas of citrus, toasted bread and yeast, all of whih linger long and comfortably on the palate. Crisply dry, with almost mineral overtones, this elegant Champagne is drinking well now but will cellar comfortably for 5 - 8 years. $US 42. Score 93.

Pol Roger, Brut Rose, 1993: Pink towards orange-salmon in color, this medium to full bodied Champagne is as rich and extracted as one could desire. Plenty of toasted bread, and coffee flavors here all offset beautifully by abundant but not exaggerated aromas and flavors of red berries and cherries. Drinking beautifully now but the wine will hold nicely for 4 - 6 years longer. $69. Score 93.

Pommery, Brut Rose, n.v.: Pinkish-orange in color, this medium bodied wine is about as yeasty as you will get. Concentrated bubbles, a long-lasting mousse, and hints of red fruits here in an overall soft and smooth wine. Somewhat one dimensional and with flavors that fail to linger. Price unknown. Score 86.

Ruinart, Dom Ruinart Rose, 1986: A classic in every way, this full bodied wine offers up delicious and elegant flavors and aromas of dried fruits, roasted coffee and herbaceousness, all with just the right level of yeast and toasted bread. Bubbles that go on and on, flavors that linger beautifully all coming together in a wine that is drinking beautifully now and will cellar well for another 6 - 10 years. If you love Champagne, you will adore this one! US$ 155. Score 95.

Taittinger, Prestige Rose, n.v.: So bright orange in color that some might consider it a bit gaudy, this medium bodied wine shows plenty of red fruit. A good mousse and long lasting bubbles, but not much aftertaste here. A wine for those who enjoy their Champagne on the distinctly fruity side. US$ 45. Score 87.

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame Rose, 1988: As is well known, I have a bias for the Champagnes of Veuve Clicquot and if the truth be told, even though this and the following wine were tasted blind, I recognized them both immediately. What can I say - I do try to put my biases (positive and negative) behind as my notes were written. Whatever, this perfectly dry, full bodied, gold towards salmon colored wine offers up generous red fruit and citrus flavors, all balanced nicely by a creamy-yeasty finish that lingers very nicely. Concentrated and intense on the palate and with true elgance, the wine is drinking nicely now and will continue to improve with further cellaring. Drink now - 2010. Score 93.

© Daniel Rogov