(Followed by a list of what it is one critic thinks the well equipped kitchen really needs)

From Paris to New York and from Tokyo to Jakarta, in every open air market you will find a man (I am convinced that it is the same man in every place) standing at a small table and from that table he hawks what is touted as the latest
miracle of the modern age. With a magnificent flourish of his wrist and a non-stop sales pitch he demonstrates a tool that, with only the most minor adjustments, will peel an onion, pit an olive, chop a radish, puree a zucchini, julienne a carrot or grate a parsley root. For only aoub $3.00 (or a bit less in the late afternoon, just before the market closes), one has a tool that will prepare an entire salad with an absolute minimum of effort.

One makes the purchase and returns home with great expectations. There one discovers that one's own wrist flourishes are simply not up to those of the hawker. What should have been peeled is chopped, what should have been chopped is pureed and what should have been pureed dissolves into a mush that defies recognition. Now it is true that with enough perseverance and practice, eventually one can do all the things the man in the market did. But at that stunning moment of victory, the absolutely perfect gadget, imported from some land even more exotic than our own, falls into a hundred pieces, and is added to the heaping junkyard of progress.

The more sophisticated among us are not so easily taken in by pitch men and it falls to the "better shops" to satisfy our needs for the newest effort saving device. For example, for only a hundred dollars or more than was required in the marketplace, we can purchase the latest model of German, American, Italian or Dutch food processor. To our great joy, these appliances are far more efficient than the three dollar gizmo. In addition to other functions, our new solid-state, semi-computerized food processor is also capable of mincing, slivering, kneading and, if desired, of liquifying. We pour over the 32 page instruction manual (written in Italian, German, French, Japanese, Arabic, Hindi, Hebrew and sometimes even English) and then we try our new machine. We are pleased, for we think we have saved time and energy. We remain content until it dawns on us just how much effort goes into keeping the machine and its 62 parts clean. Nor are our moods boosted by the growing awareness of how much of our limited counter space has been eaten up by this thing which was supposed to make our lives easier. It becomes apparent that the more of these time-saving gadgets we possess, the more, rather than less, work we have.

But we are incorrigible and go on buying, ever in search of some elusive ultimate gadget. Kitchen drawers overflow with ice cream dippers, egg slicers, pasta cutters and pastry shapers. Cabinets fill with blenders, beaters, whippers and mixers. Closets become laden with popcorn machines, electric frying pans and an assortment of waffle irons. The latest shape of spatula hangs from a post-modern rack, spice-stands line an entire wall, and tucked into the most improbable corners of the kitchen are a variety of machines that will make filter, drip, espresso or percolator coffee.

Though it may be a self-defeating pleasure, one must admit that there is a certain beckoning charm to all of these gadgets. But the well equipped kitchen need not be so costly that it will throw the average family into bankruptcy. Here are a few hints on wise purchasing.

The Truly Well Equipped Kitchen

Pots, pans and cooking utensils

In choosing pans, skillets and kettles, be sure they diffuse heat evenly. Heavy-gauge enamelled, cast iron, copper, earthenware and porcelain cooking utensils are best.

A variety of saucepans and kettles, all with lids, should be on hand for general use. Several should have metal handles so food may be finished in the oven.

Casserole dishes should also be heavy, and oval shapes will prove more useful than round. Ideally, casserole dishes will be both oven- and flame-proof and at least some should be attractive enough to be used for serving the food that has been prepared in them.

Skillets and saucepans should include several saute pans (with straight sides) as well as chef's pans (with slanted sides). Those devoted to the better things in life will find that the addition of several souffle dishes, baking pans and a large roasting pan will make life even more satisfying.


Knives, forks and cooking spoons

No matter what other qualities they may possess, knives should always be extremely sharp and should be easy to re-sharpen. To test a knife for sharpness, draw it across the surface of a tomato without applying pressure. Adequately sharpened knives will score the skin of the tomato. For general use, heavy French-style chef's knives (with triangular blades) are the most versatile.

The best knives are made of tempered steel. Many people are attracted to the Danish and Italian knives that boast that they will never need sharpening. One should be aware that such implements tend to become pitted when washed in water. The best way to clean these knives is with a dry piece of paper toweling. Although they do tend to keep a keen edge for a long time, claims for "permanent sharpness" should be taken with a grain of salt.

Other indispensable tools include a large carving knife, poultry shears, at least one long two-pronged fork and an assortment of spoons, spatulas and ladles. Plastic implements are fine for serving, but are not generally appropriate for cooking.


Dishes and bowls?

In addition to dishes for preparing foods, one should have a variety of serving plates. All should be capable of being preheated before having food placed on them, and some should withstand being in the oven at high temperatures.

Also in this category falls what is probably the single most important tool of the well equipped kitchen - the mortar and pestle. Used to grind spices, blend foods and make sauces by hand, those made of cast iron or heavy stone will prove best. It is true that food processors can do everything that the mortar and pestle can do, and can surely do it faster, but (and I'm willing to go to the dueling ground with anyone over this issue), no electric/electronic machine will do it better!


Gadgets in general

From tongs to whisks, pepper mills to flour sifters, and apple corers to funnels, there are probably a zillion (or more) gadgets that one may possess. The rule for such items is that heavy is better than light. Skewers, thermometers, sieves, spatulas and corkscrews should be chosen to meet your specific needs.

Electrical gadgetry

For many years I resisted purchasing either a food processor or a blender, insisting that the very best way to do things in the gourmet kitchen was by hand. I was wrong, in addition to those tools one should also have on hand an electric beater and two juice makers (one for pressing fruits such as oranges and other citrus fruits, and one for liquifying vegetables, fruits and herbs), and a grinder for coffee beans.

The more fun-loving among us (especially those who gain particular pleasure from cleaning or repairing such tools) might consider electric ice-cream makers, waffle irons or ice-crushers. An electric meat slicer might also be handy, especially if one has to slice enough pastrami for 500 or more sandwiches each day. Those with a perverse sense of humor might enjoy surprising guests from China, Thailand or Japan by placing an electric wok on the table. And then there are electric egg slices. Just why anyone would waste money on one of these escapes me. Frankly, I'm all for laziness, but even that has its limits.

In short…..I love gadgets, but enjoy primarily those that are intrinsically useless because they amuse me. When it comes to the kitchen, what belongs there is what is most comfortable, most functional and most useful. And, of course, most attractive.

Ask me about microwave ovens and my answer is quite simple - years ago, when the Old Testament was written and some wise man or woman coined the phrase "abomination", it was microwave ovens that they were anticipating.

© Daniel Rogov