One of the most charming characters in culinary history was John Montague, the 4th Earl of Sandwich. It is known that after the Earl retired from a glorious naval career (among other things, he is credited with having discovered the Hawaiian Islands), he de- voted most of his life to playing cards. It is said that he was so addicted to the pleasures of gambling that he refused to leave the gaming table even for meals. According to a well believed story, it was this habit that led the Earl to teach his servants how to put meat, cheese or other ingredients between two slices of bread and thus created "the sandwich".

This may make for a great story, but the realities of the Earl's life tell us that it could not possibly have been true. Due to a severe wound incurred during a naval battle when he was only 17 years old the Earl had a gastro-intestinal disorder that allowed him to subsist only on liquids. The Earl could not have eaten a sandwich even if he had wanted to.

There is, however remote it may be, a possibility that the Earl actually did contribute to the popularity in England of the creation that even today carries his name. In 1748, the Earl visited France, there to discover that French landowners were responsible by law for providing their field workers with a noontime meal. Because it was convenient for everybody, the most common meal sent out to the fields was made by placing meat, potatoes, vegetables and sauce between two thick slices of bread. Some speculate that the Earl was so impressed by the economy of such meals that on his return to England he began to feed them to his own workers.

The sandwich has come a long way since the mid-18th century. Following are two that are popular at offerings at New York City's "Windows on the World".

Tuna and Sun-Dried Tomato Sandwiches

2 Tbsp. mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. plain yoghurt
1 or 3 garlic clove, minced and mashed to a paste with 1/4 tsp. salt
3 Tbsp. fresh basil leaves, minced
1 - 2 tsp. lemon juice
200 gr. tuna (ideally fresh but can use tinned), flaked
2 Tbsp. sun dried tomatoes (packed in oil), drained and chopped very finely
2 spring onions, chopped finely
2 13 cm. long lengths of baguette or Italian style bread, halved horizontally and toasted or grilled arugula or leaves of butter lettuce

In a bowl whisk together the mayonnaise, yoghurt, garlic paste, basil, lemon juice to taste and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the tuna and olives, sun dried tomatoes and spring onions. Divide the tuna mixture between the bottom halves of the bread, top the sandwiches with the rocket and cover with the top halves of the bread, pressing firmly. (Yields 2 sandwiches).

Hot Open-Faced Salmon, Swiss Cheese and Mushroom Sandwiches

1 Tbsp. mayonnaise, ideally home made
2 Tsp. Dijon-style mustard
1 tsp. fresh dill, chopped finely
1/4 kilo mushrooms, sliced thinly
1 Tbsp. olive oil 2 slices of rye bread, toasted
2 large thin slices of smoked salmon
2 thin slices of Swiss cheese
1/2 small red onion, sliced thin

In a small bowl whisk together the mayonnaise, mustard, dill and salt and pepper to taste. In a skillet cook the mushrooms in the oil over a moderately high heat, stirring occasionally until the liquid the mushrooms give off is evaporated (about 5 minutes). Remove the skillet from the heat.

On a baking sheet spread one side of each slice of toast with half the mayonnaise mixture. Top each toast with a slice of salmon, half of the mushrooms, a slice of the Swiss cheese, half the onion and salt and pepper to taste. Place under a hot grill (about 10 cm. from the heat) until the cheese is melted and browned lightly (1 - 2 minutes). (Serves 2).

© Daniel Rogov