Whether he was serving as commanding general of the French armies during the reign of Napoleon or later, as King of Naples, Joachim Murat was an extraordinarily controversial figure. A bon vivant often to be found in the casinos and the best restaurants of Paris, one newspaper described him as "a man more dedicated to the pleasures of the casino than to his mistresses and more dedicated to fine dining than to France". Napoleon himself once observed that "Murat is a thief, of that I am certain, but he steals no more than any of my generals and at least has the good grace to spend the money he steals with great panache".

No one would question but that Murat knew how to live well. Between 1808 and 1815, when he served as King of Naples, he maintained six different homes. His wife occupied the house in Arles, and in each of his other houses he installed one of his mistresses. Considering himself a "fair and a just man", he tried to divide his time equally among his houses and his women. Because these permanent liaisons were not enough to satisfy his various needs, however, Murat also maintained two apartments, one at Place de Vosages in Paris and the other overlooking the harbor in Naples, and at both he entertained frequently, invariably with a different woman as his hostess at every party. Because he had a preference for married women, this sometimes caused the periodic embarrassment of being challenged to a duel. Murat never lost a duel but was a kind man and never did more than wound his opponents.

In addition to whatever joy he found in his sexual exploits, Murat gained enormous pleasure from the roulette wheel and from dining in fine restaurants. He was especially dedicated to the casinos in Nice and Naples and at both is reported to have lost huge sums of money. "The point is", he once wrote to one of his mistresses, "that it matters not whether I win or lose. After all, my access to the treasures of Naples and France guarantee that I will still die a wealthy man". His dining habits cost the French and Italian people far less because, between 1798 and his death seventeen years later, he was so well known that no restaurateur ever dreamed of presenting him with a bill. Years later literary critic Sainte-Beuve wrote of Murat that "although some may admire him for his extravagances, it is unforgivable that he invariably ordered the wrong wines with his meals".

The following dish was dedicated to Murat in 1813 by an Italian chef who returned to Naples after having worked for the Tzar of Russia in Saint Peterseberg, the Duke of Claridge in London and the Duke of Berry in Paris. Unfortunately, the chef's name has been lost to history.


Filets of Sole Murat

3 large or 5 small artichoke hearts (ideally fresh but can use frozen)
1/2 lemon
juice of 1/2 lemon
3 medium potatoes, peeled and cut in dice
about 3/4 cup butter
1/4 cup olive oil
8 thick tomato slices
salt and pepper
8 fillets of sole, cut in thin strips
2 eggs beaten lightly with 1 Tbsp. water
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
flour as required

If using fresh artichoke hearts, rub them with the lemon and place in about 2 1/2 cm. of boiling water to which the lemon juice has been added. Reduce the flame and simmer until the artichokes are about half cooked (about 10 minutes). Drain the artichoke hearts and cut into dice. (If using frozen hearts, cook for half the time recommended on the package and cut them into dice).

In a small pot with lightly salted boiling water cook the potatoes until nearly tender and then drain well. In a heavy skillet melt ¼ cup of the butter and in this saute the potatoes and artichoke dice until tender.

In a clean skillet heat the oil. Season the tomato slices with salt and pepper and saute in the oil. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well.

Dip the sole fillets first in the eggs and then in the flour, coating well. in a heavy skillet melt 1/4 cup more of the butter and in this saute the fillets until golden brown on both sides. Transfer the fillets to a low flameproof casserole dish and gently mix in the potatoes and artichoke hearts. Saute gently for 2 - 3 minutes and over all lay the tomato slices.

In a small saucepan melt the remaining butter. Raise the flame and, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, cook until the butter is browned. Immediately before serving, sprinkling the fish with the parsley and then spoon over the hot browned butter. Serve immediately.

© Daniel Rogov