The fact that I was feeling restless at two in the morning was not the fault of the hotel in which I was staying. Munich's "Bayerischer Hof" is one of the city's finest hotels and from its imposing marble entrance to the polished dark wood, antiques and fine paintings that are to be found everywhere (even in some of the toilets), everything is designed to put you at your ease. The simple truth of the matter was that like many of the people who visit and live in Munich, I had eaten and drunk too much that evening and sleep, at least for the moment, was not what my body was going to allow me and a long quiet walk seemed very tempting.

As I strolled alone through the quiet streets, I reflected that it was difficult to say whether I was in a city of Baroque grandeur or in the kind of toy town that one expects to find only in Disneyland. Munich has always struck me as being a place of contradictions. On the one hand the city is a progressive center of commerce, banking and international business deals. The capital of the Free State of Bavaria, the city has a population of more than 1.5 million, boasts some of the most advanced communications and computer networks in the world, and serves as home to more than 30% of Germany's millionaires. On the other hand, Munich is a city of exquisite Rococo buildings and smoky beer cellars, of soaring Gothic churches, of super-modern shops and of pale stucco buildings. Despite its size, it is a city that has never lost the charm and atmosphere of a small village in which the people love nothing more than drinking, singing and the pursuit of happiness, a city where millionaires, students and lederhosen-clad farmers share the same restaurants and bars.

It was in this mood that I entered "Donisl", perhaps the most popular beer restaurant of the city. Located just off Marienplatz, one can sit at one of the outdoor tables, but the real action is inside, where the huge central hall, with its painted and carved booths and garlands of dried flowers are the center of action for hundreds of locals every night until nearly 6 a.m. Like everybody else, I shared a booth, and my now temporary companions, two students and a bank manager and his wife, decided to initiate me into the ways of local beer halls. What this meant among other things is that we had to sample each of the beers being offered, no simple task because Bavarian beers come in at least sixteen different varieties and "Donisl" offers eight of these on a regular basis. My hosts took pity on me, and instead of ordering each of these in the customary one liter glass, they asked the waitress to bring "merely small glasses", each one of which held only a half liter.

I thought I had eaten a great deal earlier that evening but the company, the smoky almost wild-western atmosphere and the beer triggered my appetite once again and in addition to finishing off a dozen small lamb chops, a huge platter of sauerkraut and about twenty pickles, my new found drinking companions and I also had no problem in devouring several large wedges of a well ripened and highly pungent Limburger cheese that had been served with plenty of chopped onions and black bread.

After three liters of beer each (being a novice to the game, I found myself going to the toilet at least twice as often as any of my companions) and what I considered an extraordinary quantity of food, we had reached that comfortable stage of being neither fully drunk nor completely sober, but of feeling that all was well in the world. At five in the morning, the banker and his wife excused themselves because they both had to be at work in a few hours, the students wandered off telling me that they had to study studying for an examination they were taking later that morning, and I made my way, more or less steadily on my feet, back to my hotel. The concierge, who seemed to me an especially kind man, arranged for a very large pot of steaming hot black coffee to be sent to my room.

After six hours of well needed sleep, I woke refreshed and reminded myself that I had come to Munich primarily to sample several of the city's restaurants. Munich is considered the gourmet capital of Germany and has so many good restaurants that many feel they can dine as well here as in any French city. In addition to "Tantris" and "Aubergine", both of which at one time or another have earned two or three stars in the Michelin Guide, the city has hundreds of other restaurants, at least ten of which currently have one star. Although the food at "Tantris", "Aubergine" and in the nearby "Residenz Heinz Winkler" is always superb, I never even dream of entering any of these places unless I am ready to part with at least $150 per person for a three course meal including wine. My own experiences at each of these restaurants has always been supremely rewarding, but I had come this time to explore some of the city's not quite as expensive restaurants. Happily, Munich is a city in which one can dine very well on a limited budget.

For lunch I found myself at the Nurnberger Bratwurstglockl, probably the most authentic old-time Bavarian sausage restaurant in the city. Always crowded, with wobbly chairs, pitch-black wood paneling and heavy tin plates, this is as genuine a representative of old fashioned Munich dining you will find. I decided on the house specialty, "nurnberger bratwurst mit kraut", finger sized sausages and sauerkraut, a huge pile of mashed potatoes that was made especially rich by the addition of lots of goose fat, and one of the marvelous cinnamon-apple tarts for which the restaurant is famous. I had wanted to order wine but, when I realized that everyone else in the place was drinking beer, I decided to follow suit. My decision was a good one, because the thick, just somewhat sweet beer that comes from old wood barrels here is an excellent accompaniment to the food.

After lunch I strolled over to Marienplatz, the square that best demonstrates why author-philosopher Allan Watts once wrote that "Munich has made two perfect marriages, the first between kitch and class and the second between vulgarity and elegance". The turreted neo-gothic 19th century Neues Rathaus (new town hall) is like a fairytale caste; the Altes Rathaus (old town hall), a medieval building of quiet charm sits modestly as if forgotten; and a the 17th century gold plated statue of the Virgin Mary sits equally quietly, as if guarding the square. I could not resist topping off my visit to the square by taking the elevator to the top of the Glockenspiel, a chiming clock tower that on the hour rings bells, doors flip open and brightly colored mechanical dancers and jousting knights go through their paces.

That evening I met several friends at Munich's oldest tavern, Hundskugel. Built in 1640, the crooked walls and the old wood furniture and the cobblestone floors of this place literally drip with history. This is no beer hall, however, so singing and loudness are not appropriate. What is appropriate is simple but truly fine Bavarian dining. In our case we ordered roast suckling pig, and weisswurst, tender veal sausage served with sweet mustard, We also tried the leberkaese, literally "liver cheese", a meat loaf like dish that is made unusual in that despite its name it contains neither liver nor cheese.

The next morning I drove out of the city in order to explore the countryside. Bavaria, which is the most popular tourist destination in Germany, boasts magnificent Alps, crystal clear lakes and river filled with fresh trout, pike and bass, fairy-tale castles and villages where the buildings are painted with bright frescoes and window boxes filled with flowers. Certainly different than the rest of Germany, wherever one travels one finds splendid Baroque buildings and the fifteen fairytale castles built by King Ludwig the Mad. And, at least since the days of King Otto I, nearly 1,000 years ago, Bavarians perhaps more than any other Europeans, are completely devoted to eating and drinking. The fact that Bavarians drink twice as much wine as the French, nearly one and a half times more beer than the rest of their countrymen and consume more meat, goose fat, and butter than the people of any other region in Europe may partially explain why these people seem so gay. It may also explain why they have the highest rate of blood pressure disorders cirrhosis of the liver and heart related diseases in the world.

Although one does not have to go to the excesses of the Bavarians, no matter where one travels here, food is the most inescapable pleasures of life. Whether in homes or in restaurants Bavarian food is simply prepared, wholesome and hearty and large portions are the norm rather than the exception. The favorite dish of the area is the schnitzel, and there are so many styles offered that it is useful to have a guide to just what is what. First of all, Bavarian schnitzels are made only from veal. Bavarians are flabbergasted to learn that in some nations, so-called schnitzels can be made from chicken, turkey or fish. A natur-schnitzel is sauteed without breading; Wiener schnitzel is breaded but served without sauce; rahmschnitzels are covered with cream sauce; Jagerschnitels are served with a sauce based on sour cream and mushrooms; and schnitzel a la Holstein is topped with fried eggs, anchovies and capers and surrounded by garnish of luxury foods such as smoked salmon and caviar.

Dining in Bavaria

In Munich

Aubergine: Maximilianspl. 5. Telephone 598-171. This elegant modern restaurant is the home of chef Eckhart Witzigmann, widely acknowledged as one of the greatest chefs of Europe, so be prepared to spend a great deal of money for the privilege of dining here. Try the pigeon with lentils, the spicy lobster and the souffle with pears in cinnamon sauce. Jacket and tie required for men. Closed Sunday and Monday. Very expensive. Reservations required.

Tantris: Johann-Fichter-Strasse 7. Telephone 362-061. Jacket and tie required for men. Some say this is Germany's best restaurant. It is certainly its most expensive but if you're in the mood to spend a great deal of money for a fabulous meal you will not go wrong here. Try the crab in tomato sauce, the quail in aspic or any of the rabbit dishes. Reservations required.

Austernkeller: Stollbergstrasse 11. Telephone 298-787. Located in a vaulted cellar, this elegant and excellent restaurant specializes in seafood. Oysters, lobsters and shrimp dominate the menu. All are excellent. Open only for dinner. Expensive. Reservations recommended.

Preysing Keller: Inmere-Wiener-Strasse 6. Telephone 481-015. Traditional German food but with a much lighter touch than one usually finds. The fixed-price seven course menu is a very good bargain at DM 120 per person. Reservations required. Jacket and tie required for men. No credit cards accepted. Closed Sundays.

Donisl: Weinerstrasse 1. No reservations accepted. The atmosphere here is unbeatable, the country-style food is simple but always excellent, the beer is marvelous and the prices are very reasonable. Dress is as formal or informal as you like. Open from 17:00 - 06:00 every day except Sunday.

Nurnberger Bratwurstglockl: Frauenpl. 9. Telephone 220-385. Always crowded, but always worth visiting, this is a place as much for a good mood as good food. The menu is limited but do not hesitate to order whatever the waitresses suggest. Prices are remarkably reasonable, especially at lunch time. Dress is informal but reservations are recommended.

Hundskugel: Hotterstrasse 18. Telephone 264-272. This is the oldest tavern in the city and for more than 350 years has had a good reputation for fine, simple country style food. Prices are very reasonable. Dress is informal. Reservations suggested for dinner.

Franziskaner: Peruastrasse 5. Telephone 231-8120. With its vaulted arches, huge cavernous rooms, bold blue frescoes and long wood tables this medieval restaurant is the best place in town for a midday weisswurst and beer. From eight in the morn- ing until one at night, this well loved restaurant serves tra- ditional heavy fare, all of which is excellent. Dress is in- formal. Reservations are not accepted.

Outside of Munich

In Bad Wiesee: Freihaus Brenner. Freihausstr. 4. Telephone 08022/82004. Try especially the rabbit in raspberry sauce, the fresh lake fish and the magnificent desserts. Anything the waiter suggests will be excellent. Very expensive. Reservations required at least two days in advance.

In Berchesgaden: Hotel-Restaurant Geiger. Stanggass. Telephone 08652/5055. The mountain trout here are among the best in the world. Also consider the stuffed quails, the stuffed goose and the saddle of venison which comes with a strawberry sauce. Informal and moderately priced. Reservations suggested.

In Ettal: Poststurberl, Hotel Zum Post. Kaiser Ludwig P. 18. Telephone 08822/4637. Fish and game are the specialties in this charming country inn. After your meal be sure to try one of the cakes. Prices surprisingly reasonable. Reservations suggested.

In Garmisch: Posthotel Partenkirchen, Ludwigstr 49. Telephone 08821/51067. My personal favorite in all of Bavaria, the traditional Bavarian dishes here are always perfect. Moderate to Expensive. Reservations suggested.

In Oberammergau: Alte Post. Dorfstr. 19. Telephone 08822/1091. This 400 year old inn offers excellent local cuisine at very reasonable prices. Reservations not required.

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© Daniel Rogov