When it comes to breakfast (what the heck, when it comes to most meals), cholesterol and calories are far from my major concerns. Many years ago, visiting Rio de Janeiro, I feasted on each of the dishes, the recipes of which follow. Each of the following recipes is designed to serve 4. Served together, they will make a superb celebratory breakfast for 8.

Garlic Fried Eggs

1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup butter
8 eggs
1 large sweet red pepper, cut in thin strips
8 - 10 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
1 Tbsp. vinegar
1 tsp. paprika
salt to taste
country style bread or baguette for serving
butter for serving

In a heavy skillet heat together half the olive oil and the butter until the mixture is very hot. Into this break 2 eggs at a time and, using a large spoon, quickly fold the edges of the egg whites over the yellow, forming a circle. Over this spoon hot oil and cook until the eggs begin to brown around the edges (the whole process should take about 1 minute). Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon or spatula and let drain briefly on absorbent toweling. Continue to fry the remaining eggs.

When the eggs are ready set them aside on preheated plates to keep warm. Pour off the oil and add the remaining fresh olive oil. Heat the oil and in this saute the red pepper lightly and arrange decoratively around the eggs. In the oil saute the garlic slices until just barely browned. Remove from the flame and let stand 2 - 3 minutes. Add the vinegar and paprika and cook over a low flame, stirring, and adding a bit of water if the skillet dries out. Cook for 2 - 3 minutes longer. Sprinkle the eggs with salt, pour the garlic sauce over and serve hot with the bread and butter.

Poached Fish Quenelles

3/4 kilo sole filets, with skin removed
2 egg whites, beaten
grated nutmeg to taste
salt and white pepper to taste
dash or two each of cognac and Tabasco
3 cups sweet cream, well chilled

Through the finest blade of a food chopper, run the fish three times. Place the ground fish in a large bowl which sits comfortably ably on a bowl of ice. Using a wooden spoon, work the fish into a smooth paste. Slowly work in the egg whites and season to taste with the nutmeg, salt, pepper, cognac and Tabasco. While still over the ice, slowly add the whipping cream, blending constantly.

To form the quenelles, have ready to moderately large spoons of equal size, a small bowl of hot water and a well buttered cookie tin. Leave one spoon in the hot water and with the other lightly scoop out just enough of the quenelle mixture to fill the spoon. Take the second spoon out of the hot water and invert it over the first to shape the quenelle. Do not press the spoons together: merely shape the quenelles.

To poach the quenelles gently pour lightly salted, nearly boiling water or stock over the quenelles so that the liquid comes halfway up the quenelles. Simmer gently for 8 - 10 minutes. Serve with Bechamel sauce.

Sausages and Apples in Cider

1/2 kilo chorizo or other spicy sausage
2 apples, peeled, cored and cut in 1 cm. slices
1 1/2 cups apple cider
1/2 cup Calvados or other apple brandy

In a heavy skillet place the sausages with the apple slices and half the cider. Cover and cook over a medium flame for 15 minutes, adding the remaining cider a little at a time as the liquid is absorbed. Slice the sausages and serve with the apples and sauce.

Corn Fritters

about 15 ears of fresh corn
2 egg yolks, well beaten
1 Tbsp. flour
1/4 tsp. salt
pinch of grated nutmeg
2 egg whites, beaten stiff
1/4 cup butter

Grate enough of the corn to make 3 cups. In a mixing bowl make a batter by combining the corn, egg yolks, flour, salt and nutmeg. When the mixture is smooth, fold in the beaten egg whites.

In a large heavy skillet melt the butter and let it heat just until it begins to turn brown. Add the batter, a tablespoon at a time, forming individual fritters. Cook until the fritters have browned on the bottom and then turn them over and brown the second side. Serve hot with maple syrup, honey or molasses. (Serves 4 - 6).

Churros

1 Tbsp. corn oil or peanut oil
1/2 tsp. salt
2 cups flour
oil for deep frying
confectioners' sugar as required

In a saucepan with 2 cups of water place the oil and salt and bring to the boil. Add the flour all at once, reduce the flame and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until a ball is formed. Remove from the flame and let cool for 10 minutes.

Using a pastry bag or cake decorator fitted with a 1 cm. fluted tube press the dough into strips about (10 cm.) long.

In a heavy skillet heat oil at least 2 1/2 deep until it is very hot. Reduce the flame to medium and fry the churros, turning once, until they barely begin to color, frying no more than 3 - 4 at a time. Drain on paper toweling, dip in sugar and serve warm. Yields about 30 fritters. Serve with honey, maple syrup or mo- lasses.

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© Daniel Rogov