Let no one ever deny it - as chefs and winemakers have their egos, so do critics. Largely related to this, on recently seeing that the Wine Spectator had released its list of the 100 top wines released in the last year, I decided to do my own list, in this case not of the "100 best" released but of the 50 best wines that I have tasted in the last year. As to plusses or minuses, the only advantage I have over the Spectator is the knowledge that my scores and comments will not drive prices up around the world.

To tell the truth, tasting or re-tasting wines of quality this high (all of the wines but one received scores of 95 or higher) is always a pleasure. I have reviewed some of these wines in the past and some are reviewed here for the first time. Some will feel that while the Spectator's selections tend to favor California, my own tend to the direction of Europe. That's fair enough though, for as is said, "chacun a son gout!" By the way, if there is a "hero" in this list it is the Marchese Piero Antinori, four of whose wines appear here.

France

Chateau Le Pin, Pomerol, 1999 (Advance tasting): Perhaps the greatest wine of the '99 Bordeaux harvest. Full bodied and as loaded with tannins as it is with fruits, this is a wine that opens in the glass, revealing layer after layer of complexity and richness. With flavors that linger seemingly without end on the palate, this is a wine that will drink well starting in about 8 years and then for thirty years or longer. If you've got to compare it to anything at all, think of the exquisite 1990 wine. Tentative score 97. (Tasted 23 Sept 2000)

Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1995: A great Mouton! Still in its infancy but already showing a dark, almost inky color and excellent balalnce, this full bodied wine has lots of cassis, berry and black cherry flavors and aromas all overlaying a good basis of minerals, spices and mint. Full bodied, packed with smooth tannins and with flavors that linger nicely on the palate, this is a wine that should be held for five years more before drinking. After that, look for a wine that will continue to develop nicely for another 15 - 20 years. Score 97. (Tasted 10 Apr 2000)

Chapoutier, Hermitage, La Sizeranne, 1998: This is what I call an "oh wow" wine because at every sip you are tempted to call out anew "oh wow" as new flavors reveal themselves, new depths are unveiled and new complexities make themselves felt. In a phrase, this is a truly great wine. Full bodied, with smooth tannins and a fully harmonious structure, the wine has an abundance of berry, mineral, spice flavors and aromas as well as generous hints of clean earthiness. Flavors that linger on and on add to the charm of the wine. Drink now only if you must, for this wine will be at its best only in another five or six years and then will last nicely until 2020 or 2025. NIS 400. Score 96. (Tasted 25 Sept 2000, Re-tasted 8 Dec 2000 with no changes in notes)

Domaine Laroche, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Blanchots, 1997: Almost identical to the wine of 1996, this wine is big in every way. With finesse and elegance, this dense and luscious wine has plenty of fruits, a lively sense of acidity and enough richness and complexity to make it a topic of discussion for wine lovers for years to come. Minimal time in oak barrels allows the flavors of pears, lime flowers, fresh cut hay, vanilla, oranges, and quince to unfold in layer after layer on the palate. Long, rich and complex, this unfiltered wine can be drunk now or in the next 8 - 10 years. Score 96. (Tasted 10 Feb 2000)

Michel Picard, Corton, Hospice de Beaune, Cuvee Docteur Peste, 1991: Deep, rich and with excellent fruit concentration, this elegant and almost spectacular wine will continue to age nicely for another decade. Still with heavy tannins this superb wine, which is now nearing its tenth birthday and almost ready to drink. My suggestion, hold another year or two before trying it or store for another decade to let it attain its maximum potential. Score 95+. (Tasted 10 Mar 2000)

Chateau Cos d'Estournel, Saint-Estephe, 1996: A Bordeaux wine with much to be admired, its deep color, flavors and aromas loaded with currants, berrys and allspice. With deep but remarkably smooth tannins, and flavors that unfold seemingly without end, this is a wine to hold for at least another five years. Score 95+. (Tasted 10 Apr 2000)

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, La Grande Dame, 1985: What can I say? Rich and full but with a lightness that reigns supreme, the Champagnes of Veuve Clicquot remain my personal favorites. One of the few regrets I have in life is that I cannot afford to drink it more often. The 1985 wine is especially rich, has tiny gentle bubbles, a lovely bouquet and a complex flavor that lingers comfortably in the mouth. The wine is ready for drinking but will continue to age well in the bottle for many years. Score 95+. (Tasted 31 Jan 2000)

Pol Roger, Brut Champagne, Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill, 1990: As one has come to expect of this wine, this one is fresh and alive, with a bouquet that hints of hazelnuts, apples, caramel and yeasty, toasted bread. Drink now or in the next decade. Score 95. (Re-tasted 9 Dec 2000)

Domaine Laroche, Chablis Les Clos, Grand Cru, 1997: Ripe, supple and bursting with mineral, flinty, spices, as well as pear, cooked apple, and toasty oak flavors and aromas, this is a Chablis in the grand style, with flavors that open nicely and linger seemingly forever on the palate. Rich now but the wine will become even more luscious with age, its fullness balanced by good acidity. Drink now or in the next five years. Score 95. (Tasted 22 Aug 2000)

Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998: If ever a wine has deserved to be described in those stereotypical terms we think of as being "masculine", this is it! Tough, hard, strong, outspoken, deep and full bodied, this is a wine that has to be set aside for another ten years before it will be ready to drink. From all signs, however, this is going to be a truly great Chateauneuf, barely flowered but with loads of fruit and an abundance of aromas and flavors that will call to mind game birds, wet leather and white Piedmont truffles, this remarkably tannic wine is destined to age and develop very well indeed. My advice, buy at least six bottles and then open one every other year starting in 2010. About $65. Score 95. (Tasted 8 Dec 2000)

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Le Crau. A white wine that cannot help but impress. Full bodied, rich and with a distinct character of lemon, pomello and grapefruit, with exquisite pear and spice flavors. Drink now if you like, but expect the wine to develop nicely for another ten years and then to last nicely in the bottle for another decade after that. My score 95. (Tasted 3 Dec 2000)

Italy

Antinori, Tignanello, 1997: Piero Antinori often produces excellent wines but this one is exquisite. Made, as it always is, from about 80% of Sangiovese and 20% of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this full bodied wine is blessed with superb balance between its smooth tannins, fruitiness (look for currants, wild berries, and stewed black cherries) and vanilla. With flavors and aromas that open in the glass and on the palate, and then linger on and on, seemingly without end, this is a wine to be treasured as one of Tuscany's very finest. Drink now if you must but ideally hold for another 3 - 5 years before starting to sample its charms. About $80. Score 97. (Tasted three times, 12 Jul, 25 Aug and 2 Dec 2000)

Frescobaldi, Merlot, Castelgiocondo Lamaoine, 1997: A truly great Merlot, possibly the best ever made in Italy and easily comparable to the best of Petrus. Smooth, ripe tannins, flavors of plums, currants and black cherries that linger on and on make this full bodied but still very young wine already bold, ripe and irresistible. Resist though, for even though the wine is approachable now it will be far better in 5, 10 and even 15 years. About $70. Score 97. (Tasted 12 Oct 2000)

Isole e Olena, Cepparello, 1997: Made entirely from Sangiovese grapes, this full bodied wine is packed with tannins and flavors of berries, tobacco and cedar (you might confuse it at this age with a fine Brunello). A wine that should age comfortably for 20 years or more, so look for the spicy plum accent to develop over the years. Already delicious, but as someone once said (forgive me, I don't remember who), drinking this wine would be akin to committing infanticide. About $50. Score 97. (Tasted 12 Oct 2000)

Isole e Olena, Cabernet Sauvignon, Collezione de Marchi, 1997: Taste this wine alongside the 1990 Chateau Latour and be amazed by the resemblance despite the national and age differences. A stupendously beautiful wine, made entirely from Cabernet Sauvigon grapes and with layer after layer of cherry, berry, mint, chocolate and even tobacco that overlay an abundance of smooth tannins. Barely approachable now, the wine promises to store nicely for up to 30 years. About $75. Score 97.(Tasted 12 Oct 2000)

Antinori, Solaia, 1997: The very best Solaia and one of the very best Tuscan wines ever made. Antinori's unique blend between Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc grapes, this still young wine already shows superb balance between smooth tannins, fruits (black currants, cherries, plums), spices and vanilla. Full bodied and with flavors that explode on the palate and then linger on and on, seemingly without end, this is the stuff of which dreams are made. Score 97. (Tasted twice, 12 Jul and 27 Aug 2000)

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Bolgheri Ornellaia, 1997: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this full bodied wine is little short of magnificent. Full bodied and loaded with black cherry, chocolate and oak flavors that open, seemingly without end in the mouth. Elegant and sumptuous, the wine is approachable now but will develop nicely in the bottle for many years to come. About $125. Score 97. (Tasted 12 Oct 2000)

Tenuta del'Ornellaia, Bolgheri Ornellaia, 1997: When I first tasted this full bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wine (12 Oct 2000), I wrote that it was little short of magnificent. My retasting confirms that and the wine is loaded with black chery, chocolate and oak flavors that open, seemingly without end on the palate. Loaded with tannins, elegant and sumptuous the wine is barely approachable now but will develop nicely in the bottle for 8, 10 or even more years. A wine to prize in every way. About $125 in the United States. Score 97. (Retasted 6 Dec 2000)

Villa Cafaggio, Toscana San Martino, 1997: After a first sip I was tempted to describe this wine simply as "fabulous" but, as scores in and of themselves are inadequate, so are single-word descriptors. Whatever, this full bodied and highly tannic wine with its complex berry, black cherry and wild flower aromas and flavors offers a mouthful of flavors that burst forth and then linger beautifully on the palate. If you insist on drinking it now, let the wine have at least 15 minutes to open in the glass. Because of its youth the wine will still be somewhat closed but it will not fail to please. If you have the patience, wait another 4 - 5 years before starting to drink it. With apologies for repeating myself, "fabulous" and at about $50 in the U.S.A. irresistible. Score 97. (Tasted 5 Dec 2000)

Gaja, Barbaresco, 1997: Perhaps Gaja's best Barbaresco ever. As one has come to expect from this excellent producer, this is an old-fashioned Barbaresco - full bodied, deep garnet red in color and tannic and so well balanced that it canot help but impress. Look for raspberries, plums, spring flowers and even a hint of stewed plums in the aromas and flavors and enjoy, enjoy as they linger on and on. Hold for at least 4 - 5 years. About $160. Score 96. (Tasted 3 Dec 2000)

Castello dei Rampolla, Tuscana Sammarco, 1997: A truly great full bodied wine from a truly great Tuscany vintage year. So deep in color that you might even think it was inky black, but with aromas and flavors of currants, wild berries and mint and a finish so crisp that it will call to mind minerals and precious stones. Hold for at least three more years before starting to drink it and then expect it to develop nicely for another five years after that. About $75. Score 95+. (Retasted 6 Dec 2000)

Michele Chiarlo, Barbaresco Rabaja, 1996: Garnet red, with rich brown overtones, this Nebbiolo based wine, made entirely from grapes from a single vineyard, is packed with elegance. With complex aromas of black cherries, plums and overlays of vanilla, nutmeg and even hints of rose petals and juniper berries that continue to open in the glass once the wine has been poured, this full bodied wine has fine balalnce between acidity, fruit and tannins. Drink now or in the next five or six years. Individually numbered bottles. Score 95. (Tasted 7 Feb 2000)

Bolgheri, Guado al Tasso 1996: Some (what the heck, probably many) will disagree when I state that I have always preferred this wine to Bolgheri's Sassicaia. What the heck though, that is more a question of personal taste than of quality and anyone who disagrees is welcome to write curse me to eternal damnation under their breath or to start an email dialogue on the subject. Full bodied and reflecting the toastiness of the oak barrels in which it was aged, the wine has rich currant, black cherry, chocolate, vanilla, tobacco and spice aromas and flavors, the wine has remarkably smooth tannins that make it approachable now but ensure that it will store well for five or more years longer. My suggestion, start drinking in 2002 or 2003. Score 95. (Tasted originally 12 march 2000. Retasted 4 July 2000).

Fontodi, Colli della Toscana, Centrale Flaccianello, 1997: Another superb wine from the magnificent '97 vintage of Tuscany. So full bodied and so tannic that you almost feel that you are chewing it, and with a bouquet redolent of berries, spices and cedar, but so well balanced that you know it will become increasingly delicious as it develops in the bottle. My advice, don't even dream of drinking this wine now. Be courageous and set it aside for another 4 - 5 years before starting to sample its impressive charms. About $60. Score 95. (Tasted 7 Dec 2000)

Bolgheri, Guado Al Tasso, Tenuta Belvedere, 1997: Another great 1997 wine from Antinori. When I first tasted it (25 August), I went so far as to say that this wine would guarantee Antinori's place in paradise. My recent retasting has not made me change my mind at all. Full bodied, toasty and with remarkably rich currant, berry, mineral and floral aromas and flavors, this remarkably well balanced wine has flavors that continue to burth forth on the palate and then linger comfortably long after the wine has been swallowed. Lots of tannins but those are smooth enough to make the wine approachable even now. The wine will be at its best between 2005 - 2015. About $55. Score 95. (Retasted 6 Dec 2000)

Altesino, Brunello di Montalcino, Montosoli, 1995: Brunello in the old fashioned way, so dark in color that it almost refuses to reflect light and so heavy that even the tiniest of sips seems to fill the mouth with flavors and aromas. In addition to the usual plum and minty flavors that often typify this wine, look as well for licorice and a gentle but pleasing undercurrent of rosemary. Hold for another 3 - 4 years before starting to drink, and then anticipate flavors that, as my daughter puts it "will blow you away". About $75. My score 95. (Tasted 6 Dec 2000)

Castello Banfi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tavernelle, 1997: Banfi often gives us excellent Tuscan wines and this one is one of their very best. Full bodied, concentrated, with smooth tannins and lots of elegance, with generous aromas and flavors of Tuscan herbs overlaying the deep fruits that make themselves comfortably felt, and flavors that linger nicely, this is a wine to drink starting in another year or two and then for another four - five years. About $40. My score 95. (Tasted 6 Dec 2000)

Spain

Vega Sicilia, Unico Gran Reserva, 1990: If I have a bias in favor of the Unico Gran Reserva of Vega Sicilia it is only because since the 1970s this has proven to be one of the most consistently great wines of the world. The 1990 wine, which has now become available locally is no exception to this rule. Full bodied, with admirable complexity and concentration and flavors and aromas that continue to burst forth on the palate (look especially for dark plums, coffee, cigar box and just the right hints of herbs and earthiness, this is a wine that fills the mouth, sits remarkably comfortably and then lingers long on the palate long after the wine has been swallowed. Drink now or in the next decade. About $265 and worth every dollar of it! Score 97. (Tasted 6 Nov 2000)

Portugal

Delaforce, Vintage Port, Quinta da Corte, 1997: Stunningly beautiful and perhaps the "sleeper" of the vintage year, a wine bursting with plummy fruit flavors, spices and minerals on the nose and with an impeccable balance. Perhaps the very best wine ever produced by this house, and one that will cellar beautifully for another 30 - 50 years. About $85. Score 97+. (Tasted 19 Aug 2000).

Warre Vintage Port, 1997: No less than one could hope for from a lodge that continues to surprise us with what seems to be ever-increasing quality. Loaded with as many woody, mineral flavors as with fruits, this complex and intriguingly delicious wine lingers on and on, new undertones of flavor and aroma developing on the palate and in the nostrils long after the first sips have been swallowed. Approachable in another 5 - 8 years but will cellar nicely for another 30- 50 years. About $60. Score 97+. (Tasted 19 Aug 2000).

Niepoort Vintage Port, 1997: A truly great Port. How I missed tasting it in my earlier tastings of the Vintage Ports of 1997 eludes me completely! With a blue-black color this full bodied wine is redolent of aromas and flavors of wild berries, spring flowers and just the right touch of earthiness. To taste this wine at its best don't dare drink it now but hold for another decade. Even after that, not to worry, this is a wine that will age beautifully for 3 - 4 decades at least. Score 97. (Tasted 7 Dec 2000)

Dow, Vintage Port, 1997: Yet another of the mini-masterpieces from this vintage year, this exquisite wine is as rich, concentrated, perfumed and powerful as you could hope for. As deep in color as it is in flavors (look especially for black cherries, chocolate and spices), a wine that continue to open on the palate until it seems almost to overwhelm with its beauty. About $50. Score 96. (Tasted 19 Aug 2000).

Quinta do Noval, Vintage Port, 1997: A stunningly beautiful wine. Lighter on the palate than many vintage Ports but no less elegant and charming for that. Seductive in its almost underplayed fruit and perfumed nose. Don't hesitate to hold this one until 2050. About $95. Score 95+. (Tasted 19 Aug 2000).

California

Joseph Phelps Insignia, Napa Valley, 1997: As always, even though this wine is a typical Bordeaux Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc), no one will think that it came from anywhere but California. Perhaps the best Insignia ever made, this full bodied wine has a deep amber color and contains layer after layer of aromas and flavors that seem to burst forth on the palate as it sits in the mouth. Look especially for currants, black cherries, wild berries and a collection of herbs and spices including tea, sage, ginger and, to add charm, hints of dark chocolate. With flavors that linger on and on on the palate, this truly superb wine can be approached now but will be at its best only in another three years, and even then continue to develop in the bottle for another decade or more. Price in the United States, about $125. Score: 97. (Tasted 7 Dec 2000)

Dolce, Late Harvest Napa Valley, 1997: Made in a small winery owned by the partners of Napa Valley's Far Niente, this is one of the few truly great sweet American wines. Made from a combination of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes that have been attacked by botrytis cinerea (the grapes and noble rot that helps make the great wines of Sauternes and Barsac), this full bodied, thick and elegant wine is loaded with honeyed fruits, apricots, peach, orange and vanilla flavors all of which come together on the palate. Intense and elegant the wine can be drunk now or in the next 10 - 15 years. About $90 for 375 ml. bottles. Score 96+. (Tasted 12 Nov 2000)

Pahlmeyer, 1995: This is another of those that I call "oh wow" wines. You take a first, second or third sip and every time you do the wine so delights and amazes that you're tempted to call out "oh wow"!! A very Bordeaux blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot), but a very California wine.Loaded with blackberries, plums, black cherries and a host of spices and herbs (look for anise, sage and rosemary). To add to its charms, there are mineral and tobacco aromas and flavors. Deep, elegant and absolutely delicious, with flavors that linger on and on, seemingly without end. Drink now or until 2008- 2010. Score 95. (Tasted 13 Apr 2000)

Robert Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, 1997: Depending on how you hold this wine up to the light you will see it as garnet red or royal purple, but whatever you are seeing, its flavors and textures will, as my daughter puts it "blow you away". An abundance of currants and red berries, all coming together with mineral, herbal (look especially for rosemary and sage) and just the right touches of tobacco and leather. Full bodied, deeply tannic and marvelously well balanced. Ready now but will develop very nicely in the bottle for another decade or longer. About $50. Score 95. (Tasted 8 Dec 2000)

Caymus, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Special Selection 1997: Full bodied and exquisitely well balanced, with black and red currants, black cherry, coffee and even a hint of cigar tobacco in its aromas and flavors, and long, even somewhat sweet flavors that linger on and on, this superbly made wine is fully ready for drinking now but will last and develop nicely for another 6 - 10 years. About $150. Score 95.

Australia

Barossa Valley Estate, E&E, Black Pepper Shiraz, 1997: A distinctive and extraordinarily well made and appealing full-bodied Australian Shiraz, in fact, one of the very best! What fascinates is that although notably spicy, the aromas and flavors of black pepper, juniper berries and even mustard seeds come together marvelously with those of berries, black cherries and stewed prunes. Delicious on the palate and with flavors that open nicely and then linger on and on. Drink now if you like but the wine will be at its best only in another 3 - 4 years and then should last nicely until the end of the decade. About $70 in the United States. Score 95+. (Tasted 30 Sept 2000)

Rosemount Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre, McLaren Vale, 1997: An unusual blend that happened to work out very well under the winemaker's tutelage. Reflecting the different grapes you will find flavors here of cassis, red and black cherries, currants and just the right earthy-herbal-peppery combination, all of which comes together in a wine of great individuality and elegance. Drink now if you like but the wine will be at its best in only another 2 - 3 years. About $25 in the U.S.A. Score 95+. (Taste 6 Dec 2000)

Penfolds, Grange, 1995: Not merely a Shiraz but by far Australia's very best Shiraz and perhaps even the best wine made in Australia for the last 30 years, this version was tasted from magnum sized bottles. Still in its infancy, but already showing the magnificence that is to develop, one can feel cherries, plums, blackberry confiture together with well balanced oak and tannins. The 1995 may not be a wine to hold for 50 years, but it is definitely one to be laid aside. Whether it will be at its peak in 2010 or 2020 is hard to say, but at any time during that period it will prove to be a great wine indeed. Score 95+. (Tasted 3 Sep 2000)

Canada

Inniskillen, Ice Wine, 1997: Made from selected grapes that were allowed to freeze on the vine and then picked by hand from vineyards not far from Niagara Falls in Canada's Ontario Provinece, and pressed while still frozen, this intensely sweet, complex and full bodied white wine has a remarkable array of aromas and flavors that cannot help but bring a smile of pure pleasure to the face. In addition to apricot, litchi, peach and mango aromas and flavors, the wine boasts charming overlays of cinnamon, honey and sweet ginger. Full bodied, and with a just high enough level of acidity to balance out its fruitiness, this lively and concentrated wine is an unmitigated delight. The wine costs about $80 in the United States. Considering its remarkable quality, that price offers me no problem whatsoever. Score 94 (The only wine on this list that scored under 95, but so delicious that I decided to include it at any rate). (Tasted 30 Dec 99, 4 Jan 2000 and 9 Dec 200, every time with consistent notes).

Israel

Castel Winery, "C' - Chardonnay du Castel, 1998: Lush, opulent and generous, this impressive wine is beautifully balanced and cannot help but call to mind Montrachet, Mersault and others of the great white wines of Burgundy. With rich apricot, peach, mineral, pear and fruit flavors and a lingering spicy-oak finish, this full bodied and vigorous wine fills the mouth with flavors that continue to burst through a gorgeous velvety texture and then linger comfortably on the palate. Even though the wine can be drunk now it is ideal for aging for another 4 - 6 or even more years. Only 1,000 bottles were produced. Score 95+. (Most recent tasting 9 Dec 2000 with no changes to my previous notes).

© Daniel Rogov