When Princess Elizabeth of Austria made a ceremonial visit to Paris in 1571, the Archbishop thought it appropriate to host a dinner in the hall of the diocese. Because it was a Friday, a day on which Catholics traditionally abstain from eating meat, the decision was made to serve an all-fish dinner. Twenty-four people attended the dinner and the table was set with four whole salmon, ten turbot, eighteen brill, fifty crabs, eighteen trout, eighteen pike, nine fresh shad, three bushels of large smelts, two bushels of oysters and one bushel of mussels. There were also twelve lobsters, twenty four cuts of salted salmon and twelve kilos of whale blubber. The center of the table was laden with twelve carp, each a meter long. The purveyor who had supplied the fish was embarrassed at not having been able to supply sturgeon, turtle or fresh mackerel.

In seeking a reason to serve fish, one need neither wait for a Friday nor go to the excesses of the Archbishop of Paris. Wherever one goes in the world today, fish are becoming an increasingly popular item on menus. This is partly accounted for by the international tendency towards eating more healthful foods. Because they are easy to digest, have a high proportion of protein, contain significant amounts of Vitamins B and D and possess less harmful cholesterol than red meats, fish have become an important part of the diet of those who eat in restaurants or institutions. Equally important, at home cooks and chefs are overcoming the misconception that fish are difficult to prepare.

If elegant dining on fish has not been overly popular, it is to some extent due to ignorance and bad cooking habits. The major bad habit that makes itself felt is that many cooks overcook their fish, thus leaving it dry and tasteless. The truth is, however, that few foods are easier to prepare or more luxurious to serve than fresh fish. A fish gently grilled until it is golden brown and then served up with parsley butter, a green salad and a bottle of wine makes for an easy to prepare, elegant meal. As they begin to forget the boiled, tasteless frozen cod of their childhood, a great many people are coming to realize that in addition to being good for them, fish is actually one of the greatest treats that can be set on their tables.

There are a few basic rules that professional cooks and chefs should follow in the purchasing and preparation of any fish. The most basic of these is the inescapable truth that fresh fish have more vitamins and are always tastier than those fish that have been frozen. It is also worth keeping in mind that many diners can almost invariably discriminate between fresh and frozen fish, no matter how many sophisticated sauces or cooking methods are used in the cooking process.

The fresher a fish, the better it will taste and there are certain simple tests to ensure the freshness of the fish you are purchasing. When fish are truly fresh the eyes will always be sparkling clear and will not have receded into the skull. Fish whose eyes are cloudy or sunken have simply been out of the water too long. Other tests: the area inside the gills should be bright pinkish-red (never gray) and the fish should be firm to the touch of a finger. One will also do well to avoid purchasing fish that have a musty smell, remembering that fish are subject to speedy decay and bacterial action and can cause food poisoning if not absolutely fresh.

If one has no choice but to buy frozen fish (which should be 30 - 40% less expensive than their fresh counterparts), it is crucial that the fish be frozen solid. Fish that arrive in your kitchen half-thawed are likely to have started to decay. Also beware of a block of frozen juices at the bottom of the package, for this is a certain sign that the fish has been thawed and re-frozen. Such packages should be rejected, for nothing is worse for the reputation of the at-home cook or the pocketbook of the owner of a restaurant than when people start suing because they got food poisoning by dining on their meals. Also worth keeping in mind is that before cooking, frozen fish should be defrosted in the refrigerator, as fish thawed at room temperature or in a microwave oven tend to become mushy when cooked.

Following, for the brave of culinary heart, are a few anecdotes about various fish … Oh yes … several recipes as well.

Trout


A member of the salmon family, the trout has long been valued for its extremely delicate flesh. England's King George IV so adored this fish that he once requested his chef to prepare a dinner in which every course would have at least one trout. The chef, the world famous Antonin Careme, rose to the challenge and on January 15, 1817 served a dinner that included, among other dishes, a Russian style trout soup, poached river trout served with tomato and garlic sauce, grilled trout with lobster sauce, a fish stew (with three different kinds of trout) prepared in the style of Bordeaux, fried trout with fresh herbs, and trout fillets that had been coated with egg and breadcrumbs and fried in butter.

The trout most widely available in the world today are those generally referred to as "rainbows" or "browns ". Although the rainbow is native to North America they were imported into Europe and the Middle East in the 1950s. In Europe they are to be found along with brown trout in rivers and streams as well as pond-raised, but in the Middle-East they are found mostly in ponds. The truth of the matter is that with fish of up to 350 grams it is virtually impossible to say whether they have been pond raised or grown in the wild. Another truth is that here too fresh fish will always be tastier and firmer-fleshed than frozen.

In addition to recipes specially suited to trout, all methods appropriate for cooking fillets of sole are also applicable to trout. Abundant all year round, there is only one important rule: because they cook quickly, one should take care never to overcook trout. Unless otherwise stated, each of the following recipes will serve 6.

Trout Colbert
A traditional French recipe


6 trout
1/2 cup Colbert butter (see following recipe)
2 small bunches parsley
4 eggs, beaten lightly with 1 Tbsp. water
1 cup breadcrumbs, seasoned with salt, pepper and paprika to taste
deep oil for frying

Split the trout along their backs and remove the central bones. Place the eggs in a small bowl and the seasoned flower on a flat plate. Dip the trout into the eggs and then dip in the flower, coating well. Set aside.

Wash the parsley well, dry on paper toweling and pick off small sprigs. Place these in a wire basket and dip into deep hot oil for about 30 seconds. Drain on paper toweling.

Fry the trout in the hot oil until the fish are crisp and golden brown. Drain, transfer to a preheated serving plate and on each trout place 1 Tbsp. of the Colbert butter. Garnish each end of the plate with the fried parsley. (Serves 6).


Colbert Butter

This versatile butter mixture is ideal for use with fried and grilled fish as well as with small cuts of meat.

1 cup beef or veal stock
1 cup butter, at room temperature
1 1/2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
2 tsp. tarragon, chopped finely
1 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 tsp. pepper

In a saucepan boil down the meat stock until it is reduced to a thick syrup. (There should be about 2 Tbsp. left in all). Remove from the flame and add all of the remaining ingredients, stirring with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a completely smooth paste. If not to be used at once, the Colbert butter may be packed tightly into a container, covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for 2 - 3 days.

To serve Colbert butter with fish, let the butter come to room temperature before spooning it over the fish. To serve with lamb chops, steaks or other small cuts of meat, place a generous tablespoon of the cold butter on the hot meat. As it melts it will make its own sauce.

Trout with Bacon

6 large trout, with heads intact, well cleaned pepper to taste
the juice of 2 medium lemons
6 thin slices bacon, trimmed of excess fat
flour as required
12 paper thin slices of fatty bacon
1/4 cup olive oil
2 sweet red peppers, cut in thin strips
8 lemon wedges

Sprinkle the fish inside and out with pepper and then with lemon juice. Into the cavity of each fish fold a slice of the bacon that has been trimmed of the fat. Dust the trout with flour and then wrap each fish in two slices of the fatty bacon. Tie with a piece of thread.

In a large heavy skillet heat the oil and in this fry the fish until nicely browned on both sides and cooked through. To serve, remove the thread and garnish with the red pepper and lemon wedges. Serve hot. (Serves 6)

Trout Meuniere N[?


6 rainbow trout, about 8" (20 cm.) long
3/4 c. flour, finely sifted
3/4 c. clarified butter
3 tsp. parsley, chopped finely
about 1 tsp. salt
« tsp. each pepper and paprika
lemon wedges for serving

Clean and wash the fish cutting off the fins but leaving
the heads and tails intact. On a flat plate combine the
four, salt, pepper and paprika and in this dip each fish,
coating well.

Melt half the clarified butter and in this saute the fish
until done, turning once. (The fish should be nicely
browned and flake easily to the touch of a fork). Remove
the fish to a pre-heated platter and set aside to keep
warm.

Add the remaining clarified butter to the pan and let
brown over a low flame. Sprinkle the chopped parsley on
the fish and over this pour the browned butter. Serve with
lemon wedges.

Trout with Sweet Herbs K`?

6 trout, with heads and tails intact
1 c. each milk and flour
« c. butter, melted
2 Tbs. each thyme, marjoram, parsley and taragon,
all chopped
« tsp. each salt and black pepper
lemon wedges for garnish

Mix together the herbs and divide the mixture into 6 equal
portions. With each portion fill the cavity of a single
fish, distributing the herbs well.

Mix together the flour, salt and pepper. Dip the trout
first in the milk and then in the flour, coating well.
Grill the trout over hot charcoals or under a hot broiler
until golden brown on each side (about 6 minutes on each
side). Pour the melted butter over the trout and serve
with lemon wedges.

Salmon and Salmon-Trout

In 1972, the Scottish and Norwegian representatives to the United Nations entered into a heated argument over which of their countries had the finest salmon. Considering that the argument took place over glasses of fine vintage Champagne, no-one thought that the two countries were on the verge of going to war over the issue. In fact, the two were simply continuing an argument that has raged among gastronomes since the 17th century. Whatever the truth, all are in agreement that salmon are by nature migratory fish that live in the sea but return to inland rivers to spawn. Considered best for eating at about six years of age, when they have attained a length of 1 1/4 - 11/2 meters and a weight of between 5 - 7 kilograms, they may be served hot with a variety of butter sauces, anchovy sauce or caper sauce. Cooked and then chilled they are ideal when served with mayonnaise, tartare or remoulade sauce. Although primarily served as steaks or fillets, mature salmon may also be stuffed, braised or cooked with red or white wine. Smaller, pond raised salmon are most frequently served whole or as fillets. In any case, their pink flesh is extremely delicate but, because it is a bit fatty, some older people find it difficult to digest.

Fish farmers in Norway and Sweden have demonstrated that salmon can be raised commercially in fresh water lakes so long as they are periodically allowed to go up-river to spawn. The members of Kibbutz Dan in Israel were the first, nearly a decade ago, to master the nearly magical trick of raising salmon entirely in fresh water lakes. Such pond raised salmon and salmon-trout have now become easy to find the world over and in almost all cases weigh in from 700 - 900 grams. There is no question but that pond raised salmon and salmon-trout can be good - even delicious - the taste and texture is somewhat different and, most agree, inferior when compared to fish that have been allowed their natural course of life in the sea and rivers.

Grilled Salmon with Anchovy Butter
A traditional French recipe

6 salmon steaks, about 2 1/2 cm. thick or 6 fillets of salmon-trout, each about 150 - 175 gr.
salt and pepper to taste
1 medium onion, chopped finely
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup anchovy butter, melted (see following recipe)

Season the steaks with salt and pepper and put them on a plate. Sprinkle the steaks with the onion and parsley and over this pour the olive oil. Let marinate 1/2 hour, turning once.

Wipe the steaks and brush with melted anchovy butter. Cook under a hot grill, a few minutes on each side, until done.

Brush the bottom of a preheated serving dish with some of the anchovy butter and on this place the steaks. Brush the tops lightly with the butter and then serve with the remaining butter in a gravy boat.
(Serves 6).

To Make Anchovy Butter

Cream 1/2 cup of butter until it is soft and then beat in 1 tsp. anchovy paste, 1/4 tsp. lemon juice, several drops of onion juice and a pinch of cayenne pepper.


Salmon with Olives
A Spanish recipe

1 1/4 kilos salmon or salmon-trout, slices or fillets
24 green olives, pitted and halved
1 large onion, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
1 1/ 2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1/4 cup butter
2 hard boiled eggs, chopped coarsely
amarilla sauce for serving (see following recipe)


Place the salmon in an earthenware casserole and over this spread the olives and onions. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and parsley, pour over the oil and vinegar and distribute the butter in dabs. Bake in a low oven until the salmon flakes easily to the touch of a fork (about 45 minutes), sprinkle over the hard boiled eggs and serve with the sauce in a gravy boat. (Serves 4)

Amarilla Sauce

6 hard boiled eggs, separated
2 Tbsp. Madeira wine
2 Tbsp. olive oil
salt to taste
6 Tbsp. chicken stock, strained through a muslin cloth
1 Tbsp. vinegar
1 Tbsp. each white pepper and mustard powder

Push the egg whites through a fine sieve.

In a mixing bowl combine the egg yolks and Maderia wine, crushing the yolks into the wine. Drop by drop, as you would for mayonnaise, beat the oil into the mixture. Season with salt, add the stock, and stir in the vinegar. Add the pepper and mustard and finally the egg whites. (Yields about 1 1/2 cups).


Salmon en Brochette
A Greek recipe

1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup lemon juice
6 bay leaves
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. each salt, pepper and oregano
about 1 1/2 kilos of salmon steak or fillets, cut into 4 cm. squares
6 red or green peppers, cored and cut in 2 1/2 cm. squares
5 onions, cut in wedges
5 tomatoes, cut in sixths
1/2 tsp. paprika

In a mixing bowl combine the oil, wine, lemon juice, bay leaves, garlic, salt, pepper and oregano. Into this put the fish, cover and let marinate, refrigerated, overnight, turning occasionally.

Alternate the fish, peppers, tomatoes and onions on thin wooden or metal skewers and sprinkle over with the paprika. Grill under a hot broiler or over hot charcoals until the fish is done (about 10 minutes), turning once or twice. Serve with rice pilaf. (Serves 4 - 6).


Fresh Water Bass

When Christopher Columbus first landed in North America in 1492, he was disappointed because he did not find the gold and spices that he thought would be waiting for him. He did, however, discover that the people of the Bahamas and other Caribbean Islands ate very well and that many of the foods on which they dined were unknown to Europeans. In his diary he wrote about "cooked roots that had the flavor of chestnuts" - probably sweet potatoes, and "of beans, large and small and of wild birds, fish, deer, lobsters and crabs in abundance".

Two things impressed Columbus above all. The first was corn, the most important foodstuff that the New World gave to the Old, and the second was "a fish of great delicacy that is found in abundance in local lakes. ... a fish so versatile that it tastes marvelous if fried in a pan, cooked on an open fire or made into a stew". Most food historians agree that the fish that so impressed Columbus was the fresh-water bass.

It was not until 1850 that Europeans started breeding bass in their own lakes and not until the 1970's that these fish found their way for the first time to the Near and Far East. That they have become the rage of countries as diverse in character as Thailand, Israel and Sri Lanka is easy to understand once realizing that the fresh water bass is an extraordinarily tasty fish and one considered very easy to digest.

American purists insist that the best way to cook these delicious fish is simply to sprinkle them lightly with salt, pepper and lemon juice and to grill them over hot charcoals. Europeans enjoy them most when they have been baked, frequently stuffed with a mixture of spinach and olives. The truth of the matter is that Columbus was right - bass can be good no matter how they are cooked and, as a general guide to, bass may also be prepared in accordance with any recipe meant for either the Israeli or North Atlantic Saint Peter's fish (for which several recipes will be found later in this article)


Bass Scalopine
An Italian recipe

3/4 cup flour
1 Tbsp. paprika
1 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper
2 kilos bass fillets
3/4 cup butter
6 green peppers, seeded and cut into strips
3 medium onions, sliced and separated into rings
3/4 cup Marsala or Sherry wine

In a bowl combine the flour, paprika, salt and pepper and with this mixture dust each fillet, coating well.

In a large heavy skillet melt the butter and in this saute the green peppers and onions until lightly browned. With a slotted spoon lift out and set aside the onions and pepper to keep warm. Brown the fillets lightly in the skillet and then return the onions and green pepper to the skillet. Add the Marsala wine and simmer, covered, until the fish is done (3 - 5 minutes). Serve hot. (Serves 4 - 6)


Szechuan Spiced Fish

1/2 cup soy sauce
2 Tbsp. rice wine or dry sherry
4 spring onions, chopped finely
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
2 thin slices ginger, shredded
2 chili peppers, seeded and chopped
2 tsp. freshly crushed peppercorns
6 bass, about 375 - 450 gr. each each, with heads and tails intact
oil for deep frying


In a mixing bowl combine the soy sauce, rice wine, spring onions, garlic, ginger, chili pepper and peppercorns and in this mixture marinate the fish for 12 - 18 hours, turning periodically.

Remove the fish from the marinade and reserve the marinade. Deep fry the fish in oil that has been heated to 180 degrees Celsius until nicely browned and cooked through. While the fish is frying, bring the marinade just to a boil in a heavy saucepan, reduce the flame and let simmer for 4 - 5 minutes and remove from the flame.

When the fish has finished cooking, drain well and transfer to a serving plate. Spoon a very small amount of the marinade over the fish and let the fish come to room temperature before serving. Serve the remaining marinade separately. (Serves 6)

Saint Peter's Fish

It is no great secret that there are ten very different fish that carry the name of Saint Peter. Four of those, known as St. Pierre in France are fresh water fish, found primarily in the rivers of Provence;
three are North Atlantic fish; and two are found in the lakes and rivers of the Far East. Other than that Saint Peter was once a fisherman, there is no connection between him and these fish. The tenth, which is found today primarily in the waters of the Sea of Galilee, is actually named after him, and a charming story has it that when St. Peter caught one in his nets the fish shed a tear. Taking pity on it, the goodly man returned the fish unharmed and uneaten to the water.

As so many stories, it is charming but has no possible basis in reality, for even though Saint Peter may well have been a fisherman, the fish that today carries his name was introduced to the waters of the Sea of Galilee only in the late 1920s. Whatever, following are several recipes that will do very nicely indeed for any of the various varieties of Saint Peter's fish.

Grill-Fried St. Peter's Fish

4 St. Peter's fish, about 500 gr. each
salt and pepper to taste
oil for deep frying
125 gr. butter, melted
lemon quarters and chopped parsley for garnish

Clean the fish and dry well on toweling. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

In deep oil that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius (360 Fahrenheit) fry the fish until nearly done. Remove from the oil and place in a baking dish. Pour over the melted butter and place under a hot broiler until the skin blisters, turning once. Serve hot garnished with the parsley and lemon quarters.


St. Peter's Fish with Wine and Cheese Sauce
A recipe from Normandy

the fillets of 4 Saint Peter's fish
1 cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
pinch of salt
2 cups milk
3 Tbsp. butter, melted
4 Tbsp. flour
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
2 Tbsp. Gruyere cheese, grated
3 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated

In a large skillet cook the fillets in the wine, bay leaf and a pinch of salt for 10 minutes. Arrange the fish in a baking dish.

In a saucepan bring the milk just to the boil and then immediately remove from the flame.

In a separate saucepan combine the melted butter and flour, stirring constantly over a low flame until the mixture is even in texture. Slowly add the boiled milk and then the salt, pepper, nutmeg and Gruyere cheese, stirring constantly.

Pour the sauce over the fish, sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and place in a hot oven until golden brown (about 10 minutes). Serve hot. (Serves 4)

St. Peter's Fish with Spinach Stuffing
A recipe from Florence, Italy


1/2 kilo spinach, cleaned and well picked over
4 Saint Peter's fish, about 500 gr. each
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup butter
2 large onions, minced
6 anchovy fillets, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
2 cups sweet cream
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
3 bay leaves

In a large amount of salted water boil the spinach until it is soft. Drain and let cool.

Clean the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper and let stand for 15 minutes.

In a skillet melt 2 tbs. of the butter and in this saute the onions until golden. Add the cooked spinach and continue to saute until the spinach has shrunk to half. Add the anchovies and minced garlic and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. Remove from the flame. Add 4 Tbsp. of the cream and stir well.

Divide the mixture into equal portions and stuff the fish, arranging them in a lightly greased baking dish with the wine, salt and pepper to taste, bay leaves and remaining butter. Bake in a medium oven for 30 minutes. Add the remaining cream, shaking the baking dish so that the sauce spreads evenly and return to the oven for 10 minutes longer. Serve hot. (Serves 4)


St. Peter's Fish with Parsley Sauce
A recipe from Pepe's, Barcelona


1 cup parsley, chopped coarsely
1 clove garlic, chopped
juice of 1 lemon
salt and pepper to taste
the fillets of 4 St. Peter's fish
3 Tbsp. flour
1/2 cup olive oil
3 Tbsp. onion, chopped

In a food processor or using a mortar and pestle, combine the parsley and garlic with 2 Tbsp. of water and pound until the mixture is completely smooth. Thin the mixture with 2 Tbsp. more of water and mix well. Add the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, covered.

On a flat plate combine the flour with about 1/2 tsp. each of salt and pepper and mix well. Into this dip the fillets, coating well and shaking off whatever excess adheres. In a large, heavy skillet heat the oil and in this fry the fish until well browned on both sides. Transfer the fish to a preheated serving platter and set aside to keep warm.

Discard about half of the oil and in the remaining oil saute the onions until golden-brown. Add the remaining flour and over a low flame cook until the mixture is light brown, stirring constantly. Add the water and parsley mixture and cook, continuing to stir, for 2 - 3 minutes longer. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve immediately. (Serves 4)

Sea Bream

Found largely in the waters of the Mediterranean sea, the gilt head sea bream (Dorade royale in French, Tchipora in Arabic, Denise in Hebrew) has been considered a delicacy at least since the time of the Caesars, several of whom insisted that a regular supply make its way to Rome for their dining pleasure. It is even said (although how accurately, I cannot say) that when Roman general Lucullus invited the entire population of Rome to dinner that more than 60,000 of these delicate fish were prepared for the occasion.

In recent years, due partly to over-fishing and partly to coastal pollution, the sea bream seemed threatened to extinction. Happily for both diners and for the sea bream, there has been an upsurge in the fish population of parts of the North African coast and near the Island of Mauritious and these delicious fish are once again to be found in abundance.

To make life simultaneously more lively and more confusing, sea bream are now being farmed in large areas of the Red Sea and off the coast of Marseilles. Do try, when buying these fish to determine whether they were raised in such man-made pens or in the sea, for even though both versions are tasty, the fish that swim free in the sea have richer, firmer and less fatty flesh and make for better dining.

Grilled Sea Bream with Red Peppers and Capers

about 6 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 large sweet red peppers, cored, seeded and diced
2 Tbsp. capers, drained
2 tsp. cumin seeds
4 whole sea bream, cleaned, with heads on
salt and freshly ground pepper

In a medium-sized nonstick skillet, heat 1 Tbsp. of the oil over a medium heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the peppers and saute until cooked through (4 - 5 minutes). Remove from the heat, stir in the capers and cumin. (This sauce can be prepared in advance and reheated prior to serving).

Rinse the fish and pat dry. Generously season the cavity of each fish with salt and pepper and then generously brush the fish with oil.

In a large heavy nonstick skillet heat 2 Tbsp. of oil. When hot but not smoking, add 2 of the fish and cook until opaque through but not firm or dry (4 - 5 minutes per side). Keep the fish warm while you cook the other two fish, adding more oil as required.

Reheat the sauce. Also heat 4 dinner plates until very hot and brush the hot plates with olive oil. When the fish are cooked season with salt and pepper and place them on the hot oiled dinner plates. Spoon the warmed sauce alongside and serve at once. (Serves 4).


Sea Bream with Onions and Raisins
Based on a Iranian recipe collected by Claudia Roden

4 sea bream, ready for cooking
150 gr. onions, chopped finely
3 - 4 Tbsp. olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
250 gr. seedless raisins
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ginger
pinch of nutmeg
a bunch of parsley

With a sharp knife slash the flesh of the skin diagonally in several places.

In a large heavy skillet heat the 2 Tbsp. of the oil and in this cook the onions with a little salt just until the onions are translucent.

In a saucepan, heat water to boiling and into this plunge the raisins, cooking for 1 - 2 minutes. Drain well.

Rub the fish with the remaining oil with the remaining oil and seasonings and spices and place it in an oven dish on top of the bunch of parsley. Cover the fish with a mixture of onions and raisins, add a few tablespoons of water to the dish and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 160 degrees Celsius for until the raisins and onions will have turned into a golden crust (about 25 - 30 minutes). (Serves 4).

© Daniel Rogov