Having just posted an article about the relationships between the world of films and that of the culinary arts, it seems appropriate to give a sampling of recipes from several of those films. Being honest, let me warn readers that although the dishes from the Angle Lee film "Eat, Drink, Man, Woman" are relatively easy to prepare, those from Gabriel Axel's "Babette's Feast" and Stanley Tucci's "Big Night" will take many ingredients and many hours of work. For many, these recipes will serve as a form of vicarious pleasure. On the other hand, those who care to try them will find that each will yield pleasure in direct proportion to the effort expended.

To read about the long and not always complimentary relationship between food and films, click here.

Ang Lee - "Eat, Drink, Man, Woman"

Chicken and Cucumber Salad
This and the other recipes from the Ang Lee film were adapted from "Two Films by Ang Lee".
Published by Overlook Press, Woodstock, New York

2 chicken breasts, with the skin removed
2 cucumbers, unpeeled
6 Tbsp. soy sauce
2 Tbsp. vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. sesame oil
2 tsp. garlic, minced
2 spring onions, chopped
1/2 cup carrots, shredded

Put the chicken in boiling water and cook over a medium heat for 15 minutes. With a slotted spoon remove the chicken, let cool and then shred with a fork.

Cut the cucumbers into strips and place the strips in a large bowl. Place the chicken shreds on the cucumber.

In a small bowl mix together the soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, sesame oil and garlic and pour this over the top of the salad. Sprinkle the spring onions and carrots on top and serve. (Serves 4 - 6 as a first course).


Minced Shrimp in Lettuce Leaves

1/2 kilo shrimp
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. cornstarch
2 Yiou-Tias (long pieces of fried dough, found in Chinese grocery stores), optional
2 Tbsp. Chinese chili oil (or peanut oil flavored with hot chili peppers)
2 Tbsp. peanut oil
1/3 cup onion, chopped
1/3 cup of the white parts of leeks, chopped
1/3 cup peas (fresh or frozen)
4 spring onions, chopped
1 tsp. ginger, minced
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 Tbsp. chicken stock (can use water)
pinch of white pepper
1/2 tsp. sesame oil
1 head iceberg (American) lettuce

Clean and shell the shrimp and then pat they dry. Cut the shrimp into small pieces. In a small bowl mix the salt and cornstarch with 1/2 tsp. of water and in this toss the shrimp pieces. Let the pieces stand at room temperature for 10 minutes.

Cut the yiou-tias into 2 1/2 cm. (1") sections and fry these in the chili oil until crisp. Pat dry with paper toweling and then flatten with a spatula or the side of a heavy knife. Tear or cut the breads into small pieces. In the same oil fry the shrimp, stirring just until they turn pink (about 1 minute).

In the plain peanut oil fry the onion and leeks for 2 - 3 minutes. Add the peas and fry for 1 minute longer. Add the shrimp and then add all of the remaining ingredients. Mix well and then add the fried bread. Heat through, stirring gently but well.

To serve, wash the lettuce and tear off the leaves, keeping them whole. Serve the shrimp wrapped in lettuce leaves or serve the shrimp mixture and lettuce leaves separately, letting guests roll their own portions. (Serves 4 - 6).

Steamed Chicken with Black Mushrooms

4 chicken legs
6 dried black mushrooms
2 tsp. soy sauce
1/2 tsp rice wine (may use Japanese mirin or saki)
1 tsp,. cornstarch
2 tsp. green onions, minced

Remove the skin from the chicken legs and cut them in half vertically, chopping straight through the bone.

Soak the mushrooms in water until soft. Discard the stems and cut the tops in half.

In a large bowl mix together the chicken, mushrooms, cornstarch, soy sauce, rice wine and 1 tsp. of water. Toss well and let marinate for 30 - 40 minutes.

Steam the ingredients over a high heat for 20 minutes and serve at once, sprinkling the green onions over. (Serves 2 or 4 as a light first course).

Stir Fried Clams

1/2 kilo clams (may use frozen clams)
2 small sweet red peppers
8 leaves fresh basil
2 Tbsp. soy sauce
2 Tbsp. dry white wine
1 tsp. minced garlic
1 Tbsp. sesame oil
3 Tbsp. peanut oil for cooking

Clean the clams by scrubbing them under cool running water with a vegetable brush.

Cut the red peppers into rings. In a small bowl mix together the basil, soy sauce, wine, garlic and sesame oil and toss the red peppers in this mixture. Let marinate for 15 minutes.

In a wok or large, heavy frying pan heat the peanut oil. When the oil is hot add the clams, the red peppers and the marinade and mix well. Cover and simmer over a low heat until the clams open. Discard any clams that do not open. (Serves 4 as an appetizer or, to serve as a main course for 4 pour the mixture of rice or noodles).


Chin-Hua Chicken

2 large spring onions
3 slices fresh ginger (each as thick as a coin)
1 1/2 - 2 kilos of large chicken pieces
2 1/2 cups chicken stock
115 gr. Chinese ham (if not available used any Virginia or Kentucky style smoked ham)
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. cornstarch mixed with 2 tsp. water to make a paste
1/2 kilo Swiss chard or mustard greens (optional)

In a large pot bring 10 cups of water to a boil together with the whole spring onions and ginger slices. When the water is boiling cook the chicken pieces for 10minutes, turning the pieces occasionally. Turn the heat off and let the chicken sit, covered, for 10 minutes longer.

Drain the chicken, cut the meat off the bones and into pieces about 2 1/2 cm. wide and 6 cm. long.

Boil 1 1/2 cups of the chicken stock, remove from the flame and add the chicken and ham slices, letting them soak in the stock for 5 minutes. Discard the stock.

Boil the remaining stock, season with salt and the cornstarch paste. Continue to boil, stirring constantly until the stock begins to thicken and then pour the mixture over the met.

If using the greens, boil them and arrange them around the chicken and ham slices. (Serves 4 - 5).


Gabriel Axel - Babette's Feast

After the screening of this film, several chefs, some in France, others in the United States and yet others in the U.K. and Israel asked if I would help them put together the recipes that would allow them to replicate the meal that Babette prepared in their own restaurants. Few requests have been received with greater pleasure, and it was eventually my pleasure to dine on these dishes at Itamar Davidov's Pitango in Tel Aviv; at Guy Savoy's eponymous restaurant in Paris; and at Jean Louis Palladin's Watergate in Washington D.C. All of the dishes come from French haute cuisine. Those from specific sources are credited. As noted in the first paragraph of this piece, do not expect any of these dishes to be "easy" to prepare. Served together, the recipes will provide a luxurious dinner for 12.

The First Course - Potage a la Tortue

This recipe, for Green Turtle Soup was taken from the notebooks of Adolphe Duglere, the best known chef of the Cafe Anglais. The notebooks are on permanent loan to the national library in Paris.

1 live green turtle (about 5 kilos)
1 recipe for consomme (recipe follows)
1 recipe for chicken-meat stock (recipe follows)
2 - 4 cups Madeira or Sherry wine, as required
l bouquet garni (basil, marjoram, rosemary, savory, thyme and parsley tied together in muslin)
l bouquet garni of peppercorns and coriander leaves
4 medium carrots
l small cabbage
1 turnip
1 large unpeeled apple
salt and pepper to taste
croutons for serving (recipe follows)

Slaughter the turtle and hang it to bleed for 3 - 4 hours. Butcher the turtle, setting aside separately the breastplate and carapace, the meat and the innards. Clean the innards well. Cut the carapace and breast plate into pieces and plunge these into a large pot with rapidly boiling water. Let the pieces blanch for 5 minutes. Drain rapidly, run the pieces under cold water and remove and discard the outer shields that cover them.

Place the cleaned pieces in a large saucepan and cover generously with the consomme. To the saucepan add both bouquets garnis, the vegetables and the apple. Over a high flame bring just to a boil. Immediately lower the flame and simmer gently, uncovered, for about 7 hours.

While the consomme is simmering, bone the turtle meat and cut into 1 cm cubes. Place the meat in the chicken-beef stock, bring just to a boil, reduce the flame and let simmer just until the meat is tender (about 2 hrs). Keep the meat warm in the stock.

When the carapace and breast plates have finished cooking, strain the soup through a cloth, heat through and add 2 cups of Madeira (or Sherry) to each liter of stock. Heat through.

Immediately before serving place the turtle pieces in the soup. Garnish with the croutons and serve at once. Note: This soup should be served with a medium-dry Amontillado wine.

Note: If using tinned turtle meat, follow all of the above steps simply substituting additional turtle meat for the carapace and breast plates used in preparing the stock.


Consomme

Consomme is nothing more than a stock that has been perfectly clarified until completely clear and sparkling. The following consomme (consomme blanc de veau) is considered ideal for making the turtle soup, above.

2 kilos uncooked veal bones, cracked
1 chicken, cut into convenient pieces
1 1/2 kilos uncooked veal shank meat
2 medium carrots
2 medium onions
2 stalks celery
l bouquet garni with 2 unpeeled garlic cloves and 2 whole cloves added to 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley,
1/2 bay leaf, 2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 tsp. salt

Place the veal bones and veal meat into a kettle, pour over cold water to cover, bring to the boil and let boil very gently for 5 - 6 minutes. Drain and rinse well under cold water. Rinse the kettle. Return the bones and meat to the kettle, pour over fresh cold water to cover and bring just to a bare simmer. Skim and then add the vegetables, chicken, bouquet garni and salt. Continue this bare simmer, partially covering the kettle, for 4 -5 hours, adding boiling water only if the liquids evaporate below the level of the ingredients. When cooking is completed discard the bouquet garni and strain the stock into a clean bowl.

To degrease, let the stock settle for 5 - 6 minutes and then skim the bulk of the fat from the surface with a large spoon. Draw pieces of paper toweling across the surface of the stock to absorb the last remnants of the fat. Taste the stock. If it is to weak, boil down to concentrate the strength. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.


Chicken-Meat Stock

about 1 1/2 kilos each mixed meat and poultry bones and meat scraps
2 medium carrots
2 medium onions
2 stalks celery
l bouquet garni (see recipe for consomme)
2 tsp. salt

Place the meat and bones in a kettle, pour over cold water to cover, bring to a bare simmer and skim the surface. Continue to simmer, skimming often, until scum no longer rises to the surface. Add the remaining ingredients and continue to simmer, partially covered, for 4 - 5 hours longer, skimming occasionally if necessary and adding boiling water if the liquids evaporate below the surface of the ingredients. Before adding the turtle meat discard the bouquet garni and strain the stock through a cloth.



The Second Course - Blinis Demidoff

This is a recipe that is Russian in origin but that was later refined at the Maison Doree, a restaurant Count Demidoff frequented with the many women to whom he paid court.

2 cups clarified butter (see note below), melted
1/2 kilo malossol (lightly salted) caviar
2 cups sour cream
2 cups milk, scalded and then cooled to lukewarm
l cup each buckwheat flour and white flour, both sifted
4 eggs, separated
l envelope dry yeast (1 oz./28 gr.)
1 tsp. each salt and sugar

In a large warm bowl soak the yeast in 1/4 cup of warm water. After about 10 minutes, add l cup of the milk.

Sift both flours together. Resift the flours and salt and stir 1 cup of this mixture into the yeast. Cover and let rise for 1/2 hour. Add the remaining milk and flour. Lightly beat the egg yolks and add these to the mixture. Beat until smooth and then let stand and rise until doubled in bulk (about 1 hour). Add 3 Tbsp. of the clarified butter. Beat the egg whites until stiff and then fold these into the mixture. Let stand to rise for 1/2 hour.

To make the blinis, use a cast-iron or other heavy 5" (8 cm) skillet. To the skillet add 1 tsp. of the clarified butter and heat. Pour in 1 Tbsp. of the batter at a time and cook for 1 minute. Over the pancake spoon a bit of butter, turn and cook for 1/2 minute longer. Remove the blini and keep warm in a low oven. Continue cooking until all of the blinis are made.

To serve, place the blinis on a preheated serving platter. On one half of each blini place heaping spoonfuls of the caviar. Pour over the remaining clarified butter and then, on the second half of the blinis, pile the sour cream.

Note: Such blinis are ideally served with the driest possible of Champagnes, very well chilled.

The Main Course - Cailles en Sarcophage

This traditional French dish, Quails in Pastry Cases, was probably first prepared by Taillevent. Those brave enough to venture forth and produce this dish will do well to read the recipe carefully well in advance because it calls for no less than six separately prepared sauces.

12 quails, dressed and half boned, with heads intact
1 recipe for game stock (recipe follows)
1 recipe for brown chaud-froid sauce (recipe follows)
12 pastry cases (recipe follows)
250 gr fresh foie gras (goose livers)
250 gr. fresh Perigord truffles, finely diced
4 large truffles, sliced thinly
36 large seedless grapes
3 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. each Cognac and Madeira wine

In a heavy skillet melt the butter and in this lightly saute the goose livers. When they are just beginning to brown, remove from the heat. Let cool for several minutes and dice the livers finely. Add the diced truffles and moisten with 2 Tbsp. of the Madeira wine. Mix gently but well and with this salpicon, stuff the birds.

Wrap each bird in a piece of muslin cloth, folding the head under a wing. Poach the birds in the game stock for about 15 minutes. Drain the birds and set them aside to keep warm.

Strain the liqueur in which the quails were cooked. With a spoon remove most of the surface fat, and then, by running paper toweling over the surface, completely absorb the remaining grease. Reserve half of this stock for use in making the chaud-froid sauce. Return the other half of the stock to a saucepan, add the brandy and bring to a boil. Reduce the flame and let simmer until the stock is nearly jelly-like in consistency. Keep warm.

When the chaud-froid sauce is ready take the following steps: (a) Transfer the birds to the pastry cases, with the heads protruding from the cases. (b) Gently spread the birds with the now jellied stock. (c) Coat the birds with the chaud-froid sauce. (d) On the breast of each bird place 1 large, thin truffle slice and three large grapes. (e) Serve on preheated plates.

Ideally served with the finest red Burgundy wine you can find. The wines of Clos de Vougeot or Romanee-Conti go splendedly with this dish.

Game Stock

Note: As many of these ingredients are not always available, one may substitute brown meat stock (see recipe which follows later on) but with the addition of the white wine, peppercorns, juniper berries, and sage as listed in the following recipe.

1 1/2 kilos breast or other cuts of venison
450 gr. trimmings of hare or rabbit
l small pheasant or partridge, trussed
3 onions, halved
3 medium carrots, quartered
1 1/2 cups white wine
1 bouquet garni (with 3 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme, 1 bay leaf, 2 unpeeled cloves garlic and 2 whole
cloves, tied in muslin
6 - 8 peppercorns
l tsp. juniper berries
1/2 tsp. sage
salt as required

Prepare as for brown chaud-froid meat sauce (recipe which follows) but deglaze the pan after the meat and vegetables are browned with the white wine instead of water.


Brown Chaud-Froid Sauce

This may be the most complex of all French sauces as it is dependent on the use of a brown stock, a jelly stock and two other sauces. Although time-consuming, it is not a difficult sauce to make. As I mentioned earlier, substitute recipes (which may be good but will not be great) may be found in many cookbooks. Any cook who goes all out and prepares the sauce in its original form will feel well rewarded. That is a promise.

For the Brown Meat Stock

1 1/2 kilos beef and veal bones, cracked
1 1/4 kilos beef shank meat
2 onions, halved
2 medium carrots, quartered
2 stalks celery
l bouquet garni (with 3 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme, 1/2 bay leaf, 2 unpeeled garlic cloves and 2
whole cloves, tied in muslin)
2 tsp. salt

Arrange the meat, bones, carrots and onions on a roasting pan and place in the center of a very hot oven. Turn the ingredients occasionally and let brown for 30 - 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and drain the fat. Transfer the meat and vegetables to the soup kettle in which the stock will be prepared. Into the roasting pan pour 1 1/2 cups of water, place over a low flame and scrape off all of the coagulated browning juices that have stuck to the pan. Add these to the kettle.

Pour over cold water to cover and bring to a bare simmer. Skim and then add the vegetables, bouquet garni and salt. Continue the bare simmer, partially covering the kettle, for 4 - 6 hours, adding boiling water if the liquids evaporate below the surface of the ingredients. Skim occasionally if necessary. When cooking is completed, discard the bouquet garni and strain the stock into a clean bowl. With a spoon remove most of the grease and degrease completely by absorbing the remaining fat with paper toweling.

For the Sauce Brune

6 cups brown meat stock (preceding recipe)
1/2 cup each carrots, onions and celery, all chopped finely
6 Tbsp. clarified butter or rendered pork fat
1/4 cup flour
3 Tbsp. boiled ham, diced
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
l bouquet garni (3 sprigs parsley, l sprig thyme and 1 bay leaf, tied together)

In a heavy saucepan melt the butter and in this slowly cook the vegetables and ham for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Into this mixture blend the flour and, over a moderately low flame, stirring constantly, cook for 8 - 10 minutes, until the flour has turned golden brown. Remove from the flame.

Bring the stock to the boil and using a wire whisk rapidly whisk the beef stock into the mirepoix (the vegetable mixture). Beat in the tomato paste, add the bouquet garni and simmer gently, partially covered, for 2 - 3 hours, skimming as necessary and adding additional stock if the sauce becomes overly thick. When the sauce is done there should be about 4 cups and this should coat the spoon. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary and strain, pressing the vegetables with a wooden spoon to press out their liquids. Degrease the stock, first with a spoon and then with paper toweling). Set aside to keep warm (ideally in a double boiler, over but not in hot water).

For the meat jelly stock
?
450 gr. beef, cut in cubes
350 gr. veal knuckle
350 gr. veal and beef bones, sawed into small pieces and tied with string
115 gr. lean chopped beef
l calf foot, boned and blanched in boiling water
115 gr. each butter and bacon rinds
2 large carrots, sliced
2 onions, sliced
2 leeks, sliced
3 stalks celery, sliced
bouquet garni (3 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme and 1 bay leaf, tied together)
2 egg whites
1 tsp. each tarragon and chervil chopped
salt and pepper

In a large heavy skillet brown the beef, veal and bones lightly in butter. Transfer to a large kettle and continue to brown together with the carrots, onions, leeks and celery. Pour over 9 cups of water. With a small amount of water dilute the juices in the skillet in which the meat was browned and add this to the stockpot. Bring to the boil, skim and add the bacon rinds and calf's foot. Add the bouquet garni, season with salt and pepper and simmer gently for 6 hours, skimming occasionally. Strain the stock through muslin.

To the strained stock add the chopped beef, egg whites, tarragon and chervil. Whisk lightly over a moderate flame until the mixture is lukewarm. Carefully skim off all the fat. With strips of paper toweling blot off whatever fat remains on the surface. Bring to the boil, whisking constantly, and then lower the flame and simmer very gently for 35 minutes longer. Strain the remaining stock through several layers of lightly dampened muslin cloth.

For the Chaud-Froid Sauce

2 cups meat jelly stock (preceding)
1 1/2 cups sauce brune (preceding)
1 cup brown meat stock (preceding)
3 Tbsp. Madeira wine

In the saucepan, combine the remaining clear brown stock and the sauce brune. Boil down over a medium-high flame, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon and add, a little at a time, the jelly stock. Boil down until the sauce is at a consistency where it can be used to coat the birds. Remove from the flame, stir in the Madeira and coat the birds.


Croutes de Bouchees Feuilletees
(Puff Pastry Cases)

450 gr. butter, softened
450 gr. flour, sifted
2 Tbsp. butter, melted
2 Tbsp. each salt and lemon juice

Sift the flour onto a well chilled marble or wood surface and make a well in the center. Into the well place the salt, lemon juice, melted butter and 12 Tbsp. cold water. With the fingertips mix these briefly and then, continuing with the fingertips, work the flour in until the mixture attains the consistency of coarse crumbs. If the mixture is too dry, add water, several drops at a time. The dough should be well mixed but not kneaded. Divide into two equal balls, wrap each in waxed paper and refrigerate for 1/2 hour. (Note: Each of the following instructions should be followed twice, once for each ball).

Lightly flour half of the softened butter and flatten with a rolling pin. When flattened fold in half and continue to flatten and fold until the butter is pliable but not sticky and close to the flour in consistency.

Shape the butter into a l5 cm (6") square. Roll out the dough to a 30 cm (12") square and set the butter in the center of this. Fold the corners of the dough over the butter, turn upside down on the work surface and press with the rolling pin to flatten. With the rolling pin roll out the dough into a rectangle about 20 x 45 cm. (8 x 18"). Fold the rectangle into thirds, turn the new rectangle 90 degrees and roll out again into a large rectangle. Fold again. Repeat this process so that the dough will have been rolled out and folded 6 times in all. If, during the process the dough becomes too soft refrigerate between rollings for 15 minutes. After all of the rolling out and folding process has been completed, chill the dough for 2 hours before using.

Roll out the dough again, this time to a thickness of about 8 mm (about 1/3"). With a sharp pastry cutter cut out rounds about 10 cm (4") in diameter. Place these on a damp baking sheet. Dip another round cutter in hot water and mark out lids on the pastry pieces that will be about 8 cm (3 1/2") in diameter. Mark the edges with a knife, taking care not to cut all the way through. Cook the pastry rounds in a hot oven just until they begin to brown. When baked remove from the oven and remove and discard the lids. Let cool for 10 minutes before putting the birds into the cases.


The Dessert - Kuglehopf

A dish that started its life in Alsace in the 18th century but has since become popular throughout all of France. The recipe is adapted from one by the Roux Brothers.

8 cups flour, sifted before measuring
1 recipe for Chantilly cream (sweetened whipped cream - recipe follows)
2 cups each milk and butter
2 cups seedless raisins
1 1/2 cups sugar
about 1 cup diced glazed fruits (optional)
10 eggs
2/3 cup blanched almonds
1/4 - 1/2 cup rum
6 packages active dry yeast
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. lemon rind, grated

Let all the ingredients come to room temperature.

Scald the milk and then let cool to just lukewarm. Pour the milk over the yeast and after the yeast is dissolved beat in 2 cups of the sifted flour. Set this sponge to rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk (about 1 hour).

Beat the butter until it is soft and then gradually sift in the sugar, blending until the mixture is light and creamy. One at a time beat in the eggs and then beat in the salt. Add the sponge, the remaining flour, the raisins and lemon rind. Beat the mixture until smooth and elastic.

Divide the blanched almonds in the bottoms of two 23 cm (9") greased tube pans. On top of the almonds divide the batter and let stand until again nearly doubled in bulk. Bake the cakes in an oven that has been preheated to medium for 50 - 60 minutes (to tell if the cakes are done, insert a sharp knife. If the knife comes out clean, the cake is done). Let the cakes cool before removing from the pans.

Just before serving sprinkle the cakes over with the rum, coat generously with the Chantilly cream and, if desired, decorate with glazed fruits. Serve with well chilled Champagne.

Creme Chantilly

1 cups double cream (highest fat content sweet cream you can find)
2 - 3 Tbsp. confectioners' sugar, sifted
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

Whip the cream until stiff and then fold in the sugar and the vanilla. Yields about 2 1/2 cups.

Stanly Tucci - "Big Night"

Timpano of Macaroni

For the sugo di umido:
1 1/2 kilos boneless pork
2 sprigs rosemary
2 sprigs thyme
900 gr. Pancetta, finely sliced (can substitute rindless bacon)
1/4 cup olive oil
50 gr. lard
500 gr. onion, chopped finely
1/2 cup dry white wine
500 gr. tomato puree
1 bunch basil
salt and pepper

For the meatballs:
1/2 kilo pork (taken from the sugo di umido, above)
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1 eg
salt
flour as required
oil for frying

For the short pastry:
500 gr. flour
250 gr. sugar
250 gr. lard
6 egg yolks

500 gr. maccheroni
50 gr. butter
400 gr. diced mozzarella
100 gr. Parmesan, grated

One day before the dish is to be served, prepare the sugo di umido: Distribute the rosemary and thyme on the pork and wrap it in pancetta. Tie well with kitchen string.

Distribute the oil on the bottom of a flame-proof casserole dish that is just a bit larger than the wrapped meat. On this place the lard, onions and then the meat. Cook over a medium heat until the meat has a light brown crust, basting periodically with wine and stirring so that the casserole does not become dry.
After the onions have softened and the meat is nicely browned, remove from the casserole (taking care not to prick the meat). Set aside to keep warm.

Reduce to a low heat and to the casserole add the tomato concentrate, stirring well with a wood spoon. As the liquids begin to stick to the pan, add a bit of wine and continue stirring, continuing this process until the sauce is thick and creamy (10 - 12 minutes). Return the meat to the casserole and cover with the tomato sauce. Sprinkle over lightly with salt and cover the casserole with a lid that has a small opening to allow steam to escape. Cook over lowest possible heat until the ingredients have taken on a deep red color (about 90 minutes). Remove the meat, sprinkle over with basil and let the meat cool.
Remove the meat and then mince finely. Set aside until ready to make the meatballs.

Prepare the meat balls: Mix 1/2 kilo of the ground meat taken from the umido with the egg, parsley and pinch of salt. Divide into meat balls, dredge each in flour and then fry in olive oil. Refrigerate overnight.

On the day of serving: Prepare the pastry by mixing the ingredients with your fingers until a smooth dough is obtained. Cover with a clean towel and refrigreate for 1 hour.

Boil the maccheroni until al dente, strain, pour over the tomato sauce, butter.

Butter at 30 cm. (15") cake mould with a removable ring. Roll out 2/3 of the pastry dough and with this line the pastry mould, making sure an abundant amount of dough overlaps the edges.

Assemble the timpano: Place half of the maccheroni in the lined cake mould. On this distribute and intersperse the meat balls and mozzarella cheese and sprinkle over with the grated Parmesan. Cover with the remaining maccheroni. Roll out the remaining dough into a disk and with this cover the macaroni. Fold over the flaps of the pastry, pressing down well to make sure it is well sealed. Brush with egg white and bake in an oven that has been pre-heated to 180 degrees Celsius (350 Fahrenheit) for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven, let stand 5 - 6 minutes before removing the ring and serving hot. (Serves 8 - 10).

© Daniel Rogov