Few families have been treated as badly by history as the Borgias. Even they though had the benefit of neither trial nor evidence, Lucrezia and Cesar Borgia have entered the annals of the world's most renowned murderers. Simply to think about the Borgias is to think about guests who have died by poisoning. What is most fascinating in all of this is that there is no proof whatever that they ever poisoned anyone.

What is definitively known is that the Borgias, among the wealthiest families in 15th and 16th century Italy, entertained lavishly. In addition to being a Cardinal and military leader, Cesar had acquired palatial homes in Tuscany, Rome, Florence and Ferrara. It was his custom to entertain weekly, sometimes even inviting as many as five hundred guests for an eight or ten course dinner.

Not everyone enjoyed Cesar's peculiar brand of hospitality. After dining at one of the Borgia homes in 1497, the Duke of Tuscany wrote to his wife that in addition to serving "food that was inedible, the man himself is terrible. He passes air, sneezes, wheezes, scratches himself and blows his nose at table". Worst of all, it was said that Cesar was a nonstop talker, never giving his guests a chance to say a word.

Despite his bad food and social failings, Cesar had a large social following. After all, here was a man who had the ear of the pope and a collection of kings, and to get ahead socially or economically one had to be in his good graces.

His sister, the beautiful blonde Lucrezia, the duchess of Ferrara, was considered far more refined. Whether in her castle in Ferrara or her smaller home in Rome, it was her habit to host intimate dinners at least three times every week. Her parties were considered great successes, partially because Gregorio Platini, who was in charge of her kitchens, was considered one of the most talented chefs of the time.

It is true that the Borgias were vindictive people and Cesar did not hesitate to have his and his sister's enemies (real or perceived) excommunicated from the church or imprisoned. During their lifetimes, however, not a single mention is to be found of their having ever poisoned any of their dinner guests.

The myth of the Borgias as poisoners only started in the 19th century, when historians and novelists begin writing that the Borgias had murdered anywhere from five to seventy of their enemies by poisoning them. Oxford scholar Gregory Hardy wrote that "it was not unusual for the Borgias to eliminate one or two people every week". Hardy claimed that the poison they used was "a white powder, cantarela, which was sugary and had a pleasing taste when added to a dish, but quite deadly." Alexandre Dumas in his Crimes Celebres, had an even more romantic idea and suggested that the Borgias made a poison by forcing a bear to swallow a strong dose of arsenic. As the poison took effect, the beast was suspended by his hind legs and a stream of foam poured from its mouth. According to Dumas, this foam was then collected on a silver plate and bottled by someone in the Vatican in expectation of some future mischief.

Even though they themselves were probably not poisoners, poisoning was a popular way of getting rid of one's enemies in Medieval Europe and Cesar and Lucrezia were themselves terrified of being poisoned. To prevent this, both employed food tasters whosetask it was to ensure that their food and drink had not been tampered with. Knowing that not all poisons acted quickly, the tasters had to make their samples half an hour before the family would dine. While none of their tasters ever died of food poisoning, this did have the somewhat negative side affect of assuring that every dish the Borgia's consumed was ice cold when they finally got to it.

According to popular folklore, the following dish was invented by Christoforo di Zeffirano, a Bolognese chef who dedicated it to Lucrezia on the occasion of her wedding to Alfonso d'Este) in 1503.

Leek Tart

1/2 kilo leeks, white parts only
1/2 cup butter, softened
3 cups flour
1 1/4 cups milk, warm pepper to taste
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
2 egg yolks
salt to taste

Wash the leeks well, cook them in lightly salted boiling water for 10 minutes and drain. In a heavy skillet melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter and in this saute the leeks over a low flame for 4 - 5 minutes.

In a saucepan melt 2 Tbsp of the remaining butter and into this stir 1/4 cup of the flour, mixing thoroughly. To this mixture, slowly add the milk, stirring constantly until the sauce is smooth and without lumps. Remove from the flame and season to taste with pepper. Whisk in the Parmesan cheese and egg yolks and set the sauce aside.

Place the remaining flour in a mixing bowl and make a well in the center. Add the remaining butter, a pinch or two of salt and 1 Tbsp. of cold water. Work this mixture into a smooth, soft dough, adding a bit of water if necessary. Roll the dough into a circle large enough to line a lightly buttered 22 cm. pie tin with sides about 5 cm. high. Fill the tart with uncooked rice and bake in a medium oven for 20 minutes. Remove the rice (which may be cooked in the usual way any time in the future).

Arrange the leeks in a neat row on the pastry and over the leeks pour the sauce. Return to the oven and bake for 20 - 25 minutes longer. Let the pie stand for 2 - 3 minutes before sliding it out onto a serving platter and serving.
(Serves 6 as an appetizer).

© Daniel Rogov