There are three kinds of fish that swim in the canals of Strasbourg, - catfish, carp and gudgeon, and there may be no way no more pleasant way to pass a winter afternoon than by bundling up in three or four layers of warm clothing and sitting on the banks of one of the canals with a long fishing pole in hand and reflecting on fish, the sky and the fact that most tourists consider Strasbourg a rather dull city. All of which is fine, for the fish are delicious; even on the worst winter day the sky always can be counted on to turn a sparkling blue for at least two hours; and the lack of large numbers of winter-time tourists simply adds to the many charms to be found here.

My day had started a few minutes before seven in the morning when the clerk at my hotel phoned to ask me what I would like for my breakfast. Strasbourg is the only city in the world and the Terminus Gruber is the only hotel at which I would dream of ordering pate de foie gras for breakfast, but goose liver in every form is so closely associated with this Alsatian city that it has become an inescapable but delicious part of daily life. The hot pate that made its way to my room, with the distinct taste of cognac and juniper berries was lovely, an excellent example of the most acclaimed specialty of the region, and as light and delicate as one could have wanted. The fact that it was served with an abundance of fried onions and came with fresh rolls that had been lightly seasoned with cumin added to the charm of the meal.

The fact that they make the unquestionably finest pate de foie gras in he world is only one of the things that gives Alsace its unique charm. Situated between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine River, the region has been invaded and fought over since Roman times. Despite their Germanic dialect, however, the people here are uniquely French and unlike their German neighbors maintain a sense of lightness in nearly everything they do. Warmer and more welcoming than most other Frenchmen, Alsatians in Strasbourg, Colmar or any of the outlying villages take nearly every event as a cause for a celebration. The corn and grape harvest, minor religious holidays, the onset of the birthing season for cows and the first wines of the year are all reasons for local fairs, feasts and a general air of celebration.

There are two distinct divisions to the city of Strasbourg - the new city, built primarily in the 18th century and the old in which most of the buildings date to the 15th and 16th centuries. It was in the old quarter, known as La Petite France, that I was strolling by ten in the morning, marveling, as I always do, how these wood beamed buildings manage to remain standing. Some do so by leaning against their neighbors. Others, even though they lean at remarkable angles, seem supported only by the hopes and prayers of their occupants. One local story has it that the old quarter is under the protection of Saint Anne and that it is due to her love for the city that not a single building has collapsed since 1798.

It was a cold morning, and before too long I made my way into Strissel, one of the local cafe-restaurants that from noon until late at night serves regional specialties but in the mornings is open primarily to serve those who want coffee or other warming beverages. Like others of these popular establishments where mixed crowds of rich and not so rich, old and young mix freely and where the prices are generally quite reasonable, the rooms here are paneled in age-darkened wood. Despite its apparant age, Strissel's is considered something of a youngster, having been in the same family for only 160 years.

Gretl Shrodi, the great-granddaughter of the founder and a long-time acquaintance, greeted me warmly but rejected my request for coffee, insisting instead that I sample some of her fruit brandies. The brandies of Alsace are justifiably famous for their smoothness and delicacy and, even though they are best taken as digestifs after a meal, one cannot deny that they make marvelous sipping at any time during a cold day, and before I could make too much of a protest, four small glasses had been placed in front of me and all present were waiting for my comments. I was perfectly willing to go along with Gretl's playfulness but in the name of sobriety insisted that I be given a small cup of strong espresso coffee between each tasting. The framboise, perhaps the most famous brandy of Alsace, is made from raspberries and was superb; the fraise made with strawberries was a delight; the mirabelle, of plums, was marvelously smooth; and the kirsch, made from cherries was as potent but as pleasant as any liqueur that I have ever sampled.

The coffee had helped but the brandies had put me in an odd mood, a pleasant combination of reflection and raging hunger that led me to conclude that nothing could be more pleasant than to reflect on the regional cuisine. Alsatians share a fondness with the neighboring Germans for sauerkraut, pork, goose, sausages and other foods that are especially hearty. Unlike the Germans or other French cooking styles, however, Alsatians use pork or goose fat as their primarily cooking oil. Red and white cabbage are the most popular regional vegetable, potatoes are served with nearly every meal and asparagus are considered a necessity of life when they are in season. Carp, trout and pike are the most popular fish, the sausages and hams made here are superb and the foie gras is legion.

Even though there are restaurants that draw on classic and nouvelle cuisines, the most popular dishes are those that have evolved locally. Choucroute garni, a Gargantuan feast of cooked sauerkraut, pork, goose and potatoes is almost always appreciated as are dishes of poultry and fish that have been cooked in Riesling wine. Roast goose stuffed with bread, carrots and raisins is extremely popular, especially during the winter months and, because Strasbourg has always had a large Jewish community, the dish known as "carpe a la Juive" - Jewish style carp that has been cooked in dry white wine and served with raisins, is also considered a staple of the area.

Alsatians also take pleasure in dining on a wide variety of confectionaries and cakes. The local macaroons, pastries and chocolates are excellent, and the best known cake of the region is Gugelhopf, a circular cake with sculpted sides and a hole in the center that is dusted with confectioners' sugar. No less admirable are a number of original and delicious regional breads made from different types of flour and flavored with cumin, cinnamon and nutmeg.

The brandy and my thoughts on food had triggered a raging appetite and I made my way by foot to the Maison des Tanneurs, one of the prettiest and most traditional Alsatian establishments. Dating from 1572 and in the heart of the petite France district the quiet rustic dining, paneled in dark wood from top to bottom has never failed to please me. Nor have I ever been disappointed by the traditional cuisine served here. The fillets of sole that which I started my lunch had been flown in fresh that morning from the English Channel. Poached in Riesling wine and seasoned with caraway and oregano, the dish proved a delight as did the roast guinea fowl that was served with a melange of green peppers and leeks. A carafe of local Pinot Blanc wine went marvelously with the meal.

An hour of fishing after lunch produced six gudgeon, a gift I always consider somewhat miraculous. These fish, once the joy of such diverse characters as Ernest Hemingway, Charles de Gaulle and Inspector Maigret, long ago disappeared from the waters of the Seine are now found only on occasion in the canals of Strasbourg. On my return to my hotel, I presented the fish to Jean-Paul, the doorman, who in turn promised me the everlasting devotion of his entire family.

Even though it was already nine in the evening when I met friends for dinner at "Le Crocodile", a heavy meal was not what I needed, so I restricted myself to a relatively light repast based on two appetizers. Everything that Emile Jung prepares in his kitchen here has a remarkable delicacy, and the river perch in a juniper flavored cream sauce and the poached salmon with leeks were both superb. The local Riesling that I drank was typical of those of Alsace. Dryer than most German Rieslings, with a clean taste and a fresh, flowery bouquet, the wine was a perfect accompaniment to the meal.

The Terminus-Gruber, located directly opposite the railroad station, may not be the most fashionable or most expensive hotel in Strasbourg, but it has long been my favorite. The warm greeting that awaits regulars or newcomers, the halls that are decorated with 16th century country-style furnishings and the spacious, well designed rooms and suites, all with king-size beds and baths are much to my liking as is the meticulously decorated "Cour de Rosemont", where one can dine on classical cuisine in front of a large fireplace. I also enjoy the fact that even if one sleeps until noon, as I did the next day, that fresh hot croissants will be available for breakfast. That the croissants were served with the raspberry and currant jams for which the region is noted added to my pleasure as did the kindness that impelled the kitchen staff to add a half-bottle of good Riesling to my breakfast tray.

Thus fortified, I decided to stroll in the new town, there to do some window shopping in some of Europe's most luxurious leather and kitchenware shops, places where both the prices and the quality are phenomenal. From here I made my way to a rehearsal of the choir at the city's glorious cathedral. Whether I was more deeply moved by Handel's oratorio, "Judas Maccabaeus" or by the superb carvings and exquisite stained glass of the cathedral is difficult to say.

Because I had agreed to go with a friend to the Auberge d l'Ill that evening, I decided to have only the lightest of lunches, and even though it is difficult to resist some of the more daring dishes offered by Antoine Westermann at his "Buerehiesel", I settled on a salad of lobster with dill, and frog's legs with chervil, both of which bordered on perfection and were made even more pleasant by the ambiance of the old and elegant dining room in which we had been seated. Even though my meal had been a light one, as I left this ravishing establishment, situated in the Parc de l'Orangerie, I remained firm in my belief that this continues to be one of the finest restaurants in all of Alsace.

The town of Illhaeursen is situated sixty kilometers south of Strasbourg. Like many of the small villages along the Alsatian route de vin, the town boasts steep cobbled streets and wood- beamed houses with red tile roofs. The fields of tobacco, corn sugar beets, barley and potatoes blend quietly into the tree-lined hills and, on many of the hilltops one sees the ruins of 14th and 15th century castles. Although any of these would be enough to draw me here, the ultimate reason for coming to Illhausren is to visit the Auberge de l'Ill where the Haeberlin family holds court at one of the finest restaurants in the world.

This is an establishment where the welcome and the service are always flawless and the lovely garden and willow trees at the edge of the Ill River add to the charm of the large but comfortable dining room. It is also a place where the professionalism of chef Paul Haeberlin and his son Marc never fail to astonish.

As appetizers we sampled crayfish with beans that had been seasoned with coriander, the brioche of foie gras with truffles, the salmon souffle and a warm salad of green lentils with goose liver, all of which were admirable in every way. After hors d'oeuvres like this one almost anticipates a let-down but this was not to be our experience. Our main courses, supremes of chicken in old sherry wine accompanied by a gratin ravioli with morels and foie gras; a mousseline of frog's legs; a feuillete of squab with cabbage; and a young wild partridge garnished with green wheat were each excellent examples of the kinds of dishes one should expect in a great French establishment.

Although we decided to stay with local Riesling through our meal, we were happily seduced into trying a remarkable late harvest Tokay from Hugel with our dessert, a magnificent bavaroise with blackberries.

On awakening the next morning, it took neither a great deal of intelligence nor more than a modicum of insight to realize that this was to be a day of extremely light dining. A single croissant and two cups of coffee proved adequate for breakfast, and a Strasbourg sausage en croute, purchased at a bake-shop in the old city and eaten as I strolled along the edge of the canal made for a fine lunch. For dinner, taken at the unpretentious "L'Ami Shutz", I settled on a single course of kidneys in vinegar, another popular Alsation specialty that is offered here daily to the great joy of locals and visitors alike. Taken with half a pitcher of Sylvaner wine, the meal was pleasant enough to be memorable and light enough to allow my liver and stomach a well earned rest.

The next day was a Sunday, the ideal day for driving along the small roads that weave through the vineyards of Alsace. The route is a pleasant one, and one weaves their way past ruined fortresses while making their way through romantic towns that retain much of their medieval charm. Alsatians treasure their wines and their vineyards are spread along the entire length of the eternally green Vosges Mountains and along the hills lining the Rhine.

We arrived in Colmar, some 70 kilometers south of Strasbourg, in time for lunch and, after a warm greeting at the always reliable and sometimes superb "Schillinger", we settled in for a serious lunch. As hors d'oeuvres we decided on the fresh foie gras with leeks and blanquette of frogs' legs that was served with broad beans. Both dishes had been exquisitely prepared and our choice of a sweet late-harvest Riesling proved rewarding With our main courses, duck with lemon and fillet of lamb with coriander, we switched to a local Pinot Noir which was full bodied and rich enough to complement our meal. For dessert we could not resist the pears in black currant sauce.

After several hours more of driving it was becoming dark so we decided that it would be wise not to return to Strasbourg. Luck was with us, however, for we had made our way to the ancient town of Rouffach and found that rooms were available at the equally ancient Chateau d'Isenbourg. This fine hotel, located in a turreted chateau that has been here since the 13th century, cannot help but delight. The high ceilinged reception area is decorated much as it was five hundred years ago, with giant swords and shields, Gobelins tapestries and pennants. The rooms have painted ceilings, antique furnishings, and what may be the most luxurious bathrooms in all of France. From one's window one has a superb view over the ancient town to Germany's Black Forest that lies across the river.

There is a restaurant here, "Les Thomeries" which is a mecca of Alsatian cuisine, but because we had dined so well during the afternoon hours we confined ourselves to a small scallop flan each, good fresh bread and several of the excellent goat's cheeses produced by the neighboring farmers.

By ten the next morning I had returned to Strasbourg, picked up my bags from the hotel, shaken the hands of the desk clerk, the doorman and the chambermaid and walked across the street to the railroad station. My train, the Trans European Express to Paris left the station at eleven a.m., precisely on schedule.

Necessary Addresses

Strasbourg

Le Crocodile 20 rue de l'Outre Telephone (88) 32.13.02 Try especially the goose and barley soup, river perch in cream sauce, duckling with juniper and ginger, pheasant with lentils and thyme, crayfish in aspic, roast turbot with celery. Expensive but worth the price. Reservations recommended.

Buerehiesel (Chez Westermann) 4 parc de l'Orangerie Telephone (88) 61.62.24 The salad of lobster with dill, terrine of veal with duck liver and artichokes, frogs' legs with chervil, are all superb here as are all of the desserts. Expensive but good value for money. Reservations required.

L'Ami Shutz 1 Points-Couverts Telephone (88) 32.76.98 The choucroute garni, kidneys in vinegar and river perch in Riesling are served daily as are a dozen or more other Alsatian specialties. All are worth sampling. Good Alsatian wines are offered by the glass or the pitcher. Reasonably priced.

Maison de Tanneurs 42 rue Bain-aux Plantes Telephone (88) 32.79.79 One of the most popular eateries in the old quarter of town, the choucroute garni, fillets of sole in Riesling, and stuffed guinea fowl are justifiably famous as the ambiance of this delightful eatery, built in the late 16th century. Reservations recommended.

Winestub Strissel 5 Place de la Grande-Boucherie Telephone (88) 32.14.73 Typical bistro cuisine in a most pleasant atmosphere. The choucroute, pot au feu which is made with goose breast and the gudgeon fish cooked in Gewurztraminer wine are excellent, as are nearly all of the offerings here. Try the Sylvaner and white Pinot wines served by the carafe. Reasonably priced.

Terminus Gruber Hotel 10 Place de la Gare Telephone (88) 32.87.00 Charming, unpretentious and my personal favorite in Strasbourg. Moderately priced.

Colmar

Schillinger 16 Rue Stanislas Telephone (89) 41.43.17 With its elegant and quiet Louis XVI decor, one can always count on a superb meal here. My personal favorites are the fresh foie gras with leeks, lobster salad, duck with lemon, lamb with coriander, and pot au feu made with fresh foie gras. Expensive but worth the price. Lunch reservations suggested. Dinner reservations should be made several days in advance.

Au Fer Rouge 52 Grand-Rue Telephone (89) 41.37.24 The turbot with leeks, millefeuille of salmon, oxtail with mus- tard, and bass with red wine and beef marrow are specialties in this lovely restaurant situated in a picturesque Alsatian building. Try the exquisite Riesling by Hugel or the Klug Pinot Noir that will please with its surprising bouquet of gooseberries. Reasonable prices. Reservations recommended.

Rendez Vous de Chase in the Terminus Bristol Hotel 7 Place de la Gare Telephone (89) 23.59.59 Some will find the Louis XIII dining room a bit pompous but the food of chef Roger Muller makes this a place definitely worth visiting. My own favorites are the frogs' legs with meadow mushrooms and watercress, and the rack of lamb with garlic cream. Expensive for dinner but the fixed price lunch menu is quite reasonable. Reservations recommended.

Illhaeursren

Auberge de l'Ill Rue de Collonges Illhaeusren 68150 Ribeauville Telephone (89) 71.83.23 One of the finest restaurants in the world, reservations must be made several days in advance. All here is perfection but the partridge soup with mushrooms, hot duck pate, supreme of chicken in sherry, the salad of sweetbreads, the brioche of foie gras with truffles, the salmon souffle, the mousseline of frogs' legs and the squab with cabbage are among the most outstanding dishes here. Prices are high but not as high as one might anticipate at such an outstanding establishment.

Rouffach

Chateau d'Isenbourg 68250 Rouffach Telephone (89) 49.63.53 The Hotel: Very expensive. The Restaurant: Moderately priced.

For Three Traditional Alsatian Recipes, click here.

To read more about the wines of Alsace, click here.

© Daniel Rogov