Many readers have asked me to name some of my own favorite dishes and, with that list, to identify the matching wines of my choice. Following, in no given order whatever, are a handful of such matches. Dishes for which recipes are given in the Food Section of these pages are marked by an asterisk (*).

French Toast (*)- Champagne (ideally Veuve Clicquot or Pol Roger, n.v.)

Lobster Thermidor (*) - A really well-oaked Chardonnay (such as the Australian Roxburgh of Rosemount)

Tournedos Rossini (*) - A toss-up here between a really excellent Bordeaux (my choice would be for either Mouton-Rothschild or Le Pin) or a fine Rhone Syrah (God forgive my expensive tastes but I would choose the 1989 or 1990 Hermitage La Chapelle of Paul Jaboulet Aine).

Schnitzels (*) - With plain veal schnitzel or schnitzel a la Holstein, a young, unoaked white such as the Heuriger wines for which Austria is renowned. In the absence of such wines, a light, fruity Sauvignon Blanc (the Napa Valley wines of Robert Mondavi or Beringer), or an equally light, ideally unoaked Ugni Blanc from Italy. With Jagerschnitzel, any of the cru wines of Beaujolais (favorites are the Regnie and the Morgon of Georges de Boeuf).

Steak Bearnaise (*) - No question here but that Burgundy is the region and the wines that are my favorites with this dish are the Echezeaux of LaMarche, the Cotes de Nuits-Vilage of Robert Jayer-Gilles, or the Beaune Les Avaux of Louis Jadot.

Tapas (*) - These Spanish appetizers were born to be served with Sherry. I admit to a passion for the dry Viejo Oloroso Sherry of Domecq, the LaGitana Manzanilla sSerry of Hidalgo y Cia, or the Almacenista Cayetano Palo Cortado of Emilio Lustau.

Oysters (*) - As I have written on many occasions, one of the best marriages ever created was that between raw oysters and Chablis (given the option and the cash, I would choose the Chablis Valmur of Jean Collet, the Chablis Les Clos of Louis Michel or the Chablis Les Close of Raveneau). What the heck, I would not be at all averse to having my raw oysters with a Montrachet of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti but considering normal budgetary restraints (even critics have them), I would happily settle for a Muscadet or Pouilly-Fume of Loire Valley producers such as Joseph Drouard, Domaine de la Vrillonniere or Serve Dagueneau).

Crepes Suzette (*) - One of my favorite desserts, but a dish that simply does not go with wine. Best bet, if you have to drink anything at all while feasting on this luxurious dish is a small snifter of Cognac or Armagnac.

Mt Blanc (*) - An unquestionably great dessert, the combination of maroons and sweet cream going delighlightly with either a late harvest Riesling (such as that of Hugel in Alsace) or with a rose champagne (my own favorite is that of Krug).

Sandwiches (*) - Some say that the prototypic French meal is of steak-frites. Others say it is a sandwich of either jambon de Paris (cooked, unsmoked ham) or Gruyere cheese on a baguette spread on one side with butter and the other with good Dijon mustard. Whatever, the ideal wine with either of these dishes is the proverbial "glass of red", that is to say either an honest Cotes du Rhone (Guigal if you want to go first class) or a simple but good Beaujolais or Beaujolais Villages (Drouhin, de Boeuf, etc).

Choucroute Garni - One of Alsace's great gifts to the world, and ideal with the white wines of the region. My own options are for the Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles, or Riesling of Domaine Ostertag, Schlumberger, Trimbach, Zind-Humbrecht or Hugel).

Cheese Soufle (*) - A dish I adore for either lunch or as part of dinner. With lunch my choice is often for a Pouilly Fume,especially for the Cuvee Silex of Didier Dagueneau or that of Guy Saget. In the evening my preference is for an Oregon Pinot Noir (I have special partiality to those of Domaine Drouhin, Evesham Wood and Panther Creek).

Spare Ribs - Depending on my mood, this is a dish that I can enjoy with a light Cabernet Sauvignon a Chiani Riserva, a Tempranillo from Spain or a Merlot from Pays d'Oc. Spare ribs are never to be taken too seriously, so neither should the wines you choose have too much body or depth.

Eggs Benedict: Most of my friends will swear that I always drink Champagne with this dish but I only do that when it is offered automatically (as it is in many of London's best hotels during brunch). When given my choice, however, it is for Sauvignon Blanc that I invariably opt. Favorites include from France - Saget, Seguin and Guyot; Cloudy Bay of New Zealand; and Cakebread Cellars of California.

© Daniel Rogov