Many visitors know Geneva primarily as a city of parks, the place where the wristwatch was virtually invented, and a place so quiet and dignified that it borders on being dull. It is true that Gene- vans are among the most polite people in the world and that the streets of their city are spotlessly clean. The idea that Geneva is dull, however, is one of history's major misconceptions and probably goes back to 1536 when the city rejected its Catholic heritage, embraced the Protestant faith and accepted John Calvin as its spiritual leader. Calvin, one of the strictest puritans of all time, was obsessed with what he considered "the pleasures of the flesh". He outlawed the theatre, banned dancing and public singing, and ranted that even wine and food were immoral if they were consumed for enjoyment and not simply to sustain life.

Calvin gave the city a name that became synonymous with strict moral codes but, as long ago as the 18th century, Geneva demonstrated that it had gone far beyond its once puritanical attitudes. By 1790, when French diplomat Talleyrand visited the city he found "much to my surprise" that the city boasted some of Europe's finest hotels and restaurants, a fine opera company, several excellent theatres and "some of the most beautiful courtesans in Europe". Talleyrand, who enjoyed courtesans, food and the theatre equally, was moved to comment that the world had "five continents - Europe, America, Asia, Africa and Geneva". Two hundred years have passed since Talleyrand's first visit to Geneva. This truly international city remains quiet and dignified but those who know it well realize that Geneva is also one of the most charming and sophisticated modern cities in the world.

Located in the Rhone Valley, in the southwest corner of Lake Geneva, and surrounded on all sides by France, the city has an idyllic location. With a view of the Jura Mountains and the Alps, a prevailing wind that guarantees that the air is never polluted, and its numerous parks and promenades, Geneva is also a physically beautiful city. From the Old Town, with buildings dating from the 15th to the 18th century, to its luxurious hotels, numerous high quality restaurants, and exquisite cultural centers, there is simply no activity that is unavailable here. There are, it is true, two prices one must pay for enjoying Geneva - it is the most expensive city in Europe and, perhaps even more importantly, whatever is done here will be done with dignity.

Genevans thrive, for example on politeness. Although they rarely kiss in public, they shake hands even more than the French. One Genevan book of etiquette even describes the correct way to shake hands: "The way to shake a hand is a sign of good education. It must not be squeezed, or brandishes or slackly dropped. The shaking of the hand must be straightforward and without brusqueness. Too brief, it is discourteous; too prolonged, it indicates a familiarity which is permitted only among intimates". So important is this basic daily ritual of Genevan life that bank managers spend ten to fifteen minutes each morning shaking the hands of all the employees in the bank and busy cafe waiters, their hands wet from rinsing cups and saucers, extends a folded elbow to regular customers. Ostracism in Geneva is to spend a day without shaking anyone's hand.

None of their politeness or dignity deprives Genevans of the pleasures of everyday life. On my last visit to the city, if one excuses the fact that we stayed in a hotel, we passed the day much as many Genevans do. Because we had awakened early, at about five- thirty in the morning, we started our day with a brisque stroll, making our way first to the tiny little island named after philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau and then to a vantage point from where we could watch the famous "Jet d'Eau", a fountain not far from the shore of the lake where the water is propelled nearly 150 meters into the air. On the way back to our hotel for breakfast we met a fisherman from whom we bought a large basketful of the small lake perch that are so valued here.

Our hotel, the elegant Beau Rivage was not far away and by the time we returned dozens of properly attired people had started wandering down to the lobby and the breakfast room. Among the twelve meter tall marble columns, an exquisite fountain made of Carrara marble, two dozen Louis XVI chairs, and a host of 18th century oil paintings we felt just a bit out of place with a basket of fish in our arms. Most people simply do not wander into the Beau Rivage with a basket of fish but despite whatever they thought of our purchase, one porter relieved of us our fish, taking them to the kitchen to be stored in a refrigerator and another escorted us to the breakfast room. Despite their disapproval, Genevans handle every situation calmly and with discretion.

After a moderate breakfast of fried eggs, croissants and brioches, all of which were served with fresh country butter and home made jams and marmalade, we decided to devote our morning to shopping. There are few cities in the world that offer as many opportunities for luxury shopping but this, alas, was destined to be a day for things we could not afford. At the Gallerie Motte, we admired a small charcoal sketch by Pissaro of a nude couple lying entwined on the grass. We were informed that bids on this particular sketch would probably start at $300,000. We decided that we would con- tinue to admire it, but from afar. Afterwards, walking on the Rue du Rhone, I priced a Patek Philippe watch that was going for a most reasonable $13,000. This too we would admire from a distance.

Our next port of call was at the Caves au Palais de Justice where we wanted to purchase several bottles of wine. Since the 16th century this has been the most extensive wine cellar in Geneva and one of the best wine negotiants (dealers) in all of Europe.

Swiss wines are good but not great, but because the Swiss Franc has always been a strong currency, the best wines of France, Italy and Germany are relatively inexpensive here. Private cellars of 10,000 bottles are not unusual in Geneva, but none can match the nearly 2,000,000 bottles held in this famous wine shop where every great wine in Europe is on hand.

By now our appetites were raging and we made our way to the nearby restaurant, "Le Papon", to which our basket of fish had been delivered for us. When our fish appeared they had been transformed into a virtual feast. Deep fried and treated to a piquant remoulade sauce, the fish were served together with a heaping platter of herbed eggs and a stone jar filled with those delightful pickled baby onions without which no Genevan can survive. We followed this with kidneys in Dijon mustard sauce and, because we had been joined at our table by the chef, the owner of the restaurant and his wife, all of this went down well with three bottles of local wine, one of the fresh and fruity Aigle and the others of pleasant young Dole, an always light and pleasant table wine made with a mixture of Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes.

Unlike most Genevans, we took a late afternoon nap in preparation for our trip to the Grand Theatre, an magnificent edifice modeled after the old Paris Opera in which opera, ballets, recitals and chamber-music concerts make up an important part of sophisticated Genevan life style. After enjoying a performance by the renowned Orchestra of Suisse Romande, we took a taxi to "Chez Jacky", the French provincial bistro where talented chef Jacky Gruber always delights us with his devotion to fine food. We were in the mood for a light dinner by Genevan standards, so we restricted ourselves to only five courses, the first of cabbage and mussels; the second of turbot that had been roasted with thyme and the third of pink duck on a bed of fresh spinach. From here we made our way through a platter of cheeses and then closed out with a bowl of fresh fruits.

By the time we had finished dinner it was nearly midnight but we could not resist a visit to "Le Gentilhomme". Located in the Hotel Richemond in the Brunswick Gardens, this is the most elegant bar in Geneva. On the evening of our visit we spotted, in addition to the usual collection of millionaires who habituate this charming place, an American billionaire, a Dutch princess, two well known French movie stars and an internationally known member of one of Sicily's most prominent Mafia families. All were equally comfortable in the luxurious Napoleon III decor, where the crystal chandeliers and velvet chairs give everyone the illusion that they are either a king or a queen. Like most Genevans, we closed our evening with a snifter of brandy, in our case, a 50 year old cognac from Otard.

Dining in Geneva

If there are traditional Genevan dishes, they are raclette, rosti and fondu. Raclette is made from mountain cheeses that toast easily in front of a fire or a special raclette grill and can then be scraped with a special fork onto a plate. The melted cheese is then traditionally eaten with boiled potatoes and the small pickles known as "cornichons". Rosti are potatoes that are boiled in their skins, then peeled, grated and packed into a frying pan to be fried in butter until brown on both sides.

Fondu, which has become world famous, is both tasty and fun to eat. Nearly every Genevan can tell you that the first reference to this dish can be found in the book "The Goodman of Paris", where an anonymous 16th century author instructed wives "to pre- pare occasionally a fondue of cheese, as do the Swiss ... as this will ensure that your husbands will ever miss you and have their hearts with you and shun all other women."

Whether cheese fondue will guarantee marital fidelity is open to question. That they make for especially pleasant eating is not, especially when consumed with an icy cold dry white wine. In Geneva be sure the good Fendant, a dry yet yet fruity wine from Sion in the Canton of Valais. Keep in mind the Genevan tradition that the first person to drop a piece of bread from his or her fork into the fondue pot, has to kiss everyone else at the table.

RESTAURANT DU PARC DES EAUX-VIVES: 82 quai Gustave Ardor. This very expensive, very chic but very, very good restaurant is one of Geneva's best. The cuisine here is in the classical French style Specialties include the locally caught trout and, in the autumn and winter, many game dishes are offered, most of which are made with truffles. Be sure to sample the lobster salad, freshly made foie gras and flambeed sea bass. Very expensive. Lunch will cost between $30 - 45 per person and fixed price dinner menus are offered at $65 and $100 per person. Telephone 735-41-40. Reservations required.

LA PERLE DU LAC: 128 rue de Lausanne, in Mon Repos Park. This delightful restaurant overlooks the water of the lake. The candlelit interior is lovely but, if the weather permits, be sure to take a table on the outdoor terrace. Specialties are fricassee of frogs' legs, sea bass with mint and trout with sweet herbs. My own favorite here is the fillet mignon that is served with a mushroom mousse that has been prepared with basil. For dessert be sure to try an assortment of the sorbets which are among the best you will ever taste. Expensive. Fixed price lunch $40, and fixed price dinner $70 per person. Telephone 731-79-35. Reservations required

LE CHAT-BOTTE: This fine restaurant, one of the best in the city features French cuisine with a definite contemporary note and is located in the Beau-Rivage Hotel. The fillets of fresh red mullet in vinaigrette sauce; cutlets of fresh salmon fried with spices; and the breast of chicken stuffed with vegetables are all superb. Fixed price dinners are available at $90 per person. Expensive, but well worth the money. Telephone 731-65-32. Reservations required.

CHEZ JACKY: 9 - 11 rue Necker. A justifiably popular French provincial bistro where, in addition to the house specialties mentioned above, be sure to try the salad of Roquefort, walnuts and endive; the mussels and pasta with anchovies, capers and garlic; the chicken with tarragon vinegar, and the rabbit with green olives. For dessert be sure to sample the tarte tatin made with pears. Prices reasonable. Fixed price dinners available for $32; menu de degustation for $50 per person. Telephone 732-86-80. Reservations not required.

L'AIOLI: 6 rue Adrien-Lachenal. Despite its unpretentious neighborhood setting, this small restaurant (named after the famous garlic sauce of Provence) offers some of the best Provencal cooking in town. Among the specialties are the leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary, the frogs' legs Provencal, pot-au-feu and a variety of shrimp and lobster dishes. The fixed price menu will cost about $25 for lunch and $45 for dinner. Telephone 736-79-71. Reservations not required.

LE PAPON: 1 rue Henri-Fazy (near the Hotel de Ville in the Old Town). This is one of the oldest restaurants in Geneva and 05? the house specialty is a crepe called "galette au sarrazin". In this dish crepes are served with a variety of filings, including gruyere cheese, ham, or fish. More sustantial lunches are offered and dishes worth trying are the fish soup, shrimp on skewers, entrecote steak or pork kidneys in Dijon mustard sauce. Reasonably priced. Fixed price lunch and dinner menus are available for about $15.00 $25.00. Telephone 29-54-28. Dinner reservations suggested.

LES ARMURES: 1 rue de Puits-St. Pierre. This rustic stone building, the oldest cafe in Switzerland which sits opposite a medieval arsenal, is definitely worth visiting. The cheese fondu is considered the best in Geneva; the fondu bourguignonne (with beef) is marvellous; and the rosti and raclettes are unforgettable able. Telephone 28-34-42. Reservations not required.

HOTEL BEAU-RIVAGE: 13 quai du Mont-Blanc. Telephone 731-02-21 Although Geneva boasts twenty world-class hotels, this landmark which has hosted John and Jacquiline Kennedy, the Queen of Eng- land, Richard Wagner and the Aga Khan is by far my own favorite. The colorful history of the hotel has included the auction of the jewels of the late Duchess of Windsor, and it was here that the treaty creating the Republic of Czechoslovakia was signed. At least one client, the Empress Elizabeth of Austria, was not satisfied by her stay, because during her visit in 1898 she was assassinated as she left the hotel. Double rooms go for $300 - 450 per night. Breakfast is $19 extra.

© Daniel Rogov