There were three great Roman epicureans with the name of Apicius and, despite popular folklore, all were more famous for their gluttony than theirs good taste or culinary achievements. The first Apicius lived during the reign of Sulla, the second under Augustus and Tiberius and the third under Trajan.

The Apicius that attained the greatest fame was the second, Gavius Apicius, who spent enormous sums on dining and entertaining and who invented many new dishes. It is possible that it was also this Apicius who founded the "school for good fare" referred to by the dramatist-philosopher Seneca. It is also known that this is the Apicius who was always to be found in the company of pubescent girls. Considering that most of his social peers were partial to young boys, he was thought to be somewhat "odd".

In addition to being a well known public figure, Apicius was also inordinately fond of high living. Possibly because his penchant for entertaining lavishly dominated his life, he built up a collection of debts. When he found himself left with an income of only 250,000 sesterces (about $200,000 annually), he felt he could no longer live in the style to which he had become accustomed and committed suicide by poisoning himself.

It was also this Apicius who wrote De re Culinaria, the oldest cookbook still in existence. Most culinary experts today agree with Antonin Careme's observation "that Roman cooking was sumptous, magnificent but fundamentally barbaric". Because they relied heavily on vinegar (to hide the smell of spoiled meat), and heavy, greasy sauces none of the dishes so beloved by Apicius' compatriots would be considered tasty today. Despite this failing, many modern chefs have named inventions after Apicius, not so much to honor his gastronomic knowledge but his extravagant life style.


Potage Apicius

2 cups chicken stock
1 chicken breast, boned
1/2 cup + 2 tsp. butter
350 gr. smoked beef tongue, in thin slices
1/2 cup mushrooms, chopped coarsely
350 gr. lasagne noodles
12 cups chicken consomme
1/2 tsp black pepper
pinch of nutmeg
3/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1/4 tsp. lemon juice
salt as required

In a saucepan bring the chicken stock to a boil and in this cook the chicken breast until thoroughly cooked. Drain the breast and puree the meat finely.

In a skillet melt 2 tsp. of the butter and in this saute the mushrooms lightly. With a slotted spoon remove the mushrooms and set aside to keep warm. In the same skillet, lightly saute the tongue slices, adding butter only if the skillet becomes dry. Set the tongue slices to keep warm.

In a large saucepan bring a large amount of lightly salted water to the boil and into this plunge the lasagne noodles.
Drain the noodles immediately and rinse them under cold running water.

In a separate saucepan bring the consomme to the boil and boil until reduced by nearly half. When the consomme is reduced, add the remaining butter, the pepper and the nutmeg and in this simmer the lasagne noodles for 20 minutes. Remove from the flame. With a slotted spoon transfer the lasagne noodles to a large mixing bowl. Cover the consomme and let stand until ready for further use. To the noodles add the pureed chicken breast and mix well with a wooden spoon.

In a soup tureen place 1 layer of the lasagne noodles and on this distribute a layer of tongue slices. Over these spread the mushrooms and sprinkle over with Parmesan cheese. Continue to build layers like this until the noodles, tongue and cheese are all used. Pour over the consomme and serve immediately. (Serves 8).

Kidneys Apicius

2 1/4 cups chicken or beef consomme
1 cup rice
6 Tbs. butter
2 shallots, chopped finely
4 veal kidneys, with some of the fat left intact, sliced thinly
1/2 cup Madeira or Port wine
1 cup brown sauce
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup pine nuts
1/4 tsp ground coriander

In a saucepan bring the consomme to a boil and in this cook the rice until it is done. Set aside to keep warm.

In a large heavy skillet melt 3 Tbs. of the butter and in this saute the shallots for 1 minute. Add the kidney slices and saute over a high flame just until the red color disappears. Add the Madeira and simmer briskly for about 2 minutes. Reduce the flame, add the brown sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat through without allowing to boil again.

Mix the remaining butter together with the rice. Add the pine nuts, coriander and salt and pepper to taste and toss well. To serve, mound the rice in the center of a preheated serving dish and surround with the kidney slices. Spoon over the sauce in which the kidneys were cooked. (Serves 4 - 6).

© Daniel Rogov