To listen to most Irishmen, it would be difficult to tell whether they drink Guinness Stout because they like the taste or because of the medical-sexual mythology they have built up about it. Among other things, many Irishmen believe that Guinness adds to their physical strength and their sexual potency. In fact, so firmly do they hold to these beliefs that babies are bathed in it, young children are given it to drink with their breakfast, and many male adults drink a bottle or two prior to what they hope will be their sexual encounter of the evening.

If the truth be told, the aphrodisiac effects are primarily psychological, bathing babies in Guinness has the effect of giving them a slightly sour smell, and there is no medical evidence to support its strength-giving claims. In fact, because the beverage has a mild laxative effects, drinking too much of it produces rather unaesthetic side effects, and there is no question that drinking too much of it has an adverse affect on sexual performance.

None of which is important, for by any standard, Guinness is one of the world's most delicious beverages. Although many people outside of Ireland refer to Guinness as beer, it is far more accurate to categorize it as stout because in addition to having a higher alcohol content than most beer, it also has a far darker color and features aromas and flavors that hint generously of malt. Equally important, Guinness has a heavier content of hops than most beers.

Guinness, which has been widely available on tap and in tins for, has developed a large following outside of Ireland, especially in pubs where it is featured as a house specialty. Now, with the introduction of tins that promise to give us both the foam and flavor of draught Guinness, that popularity seems ready to increase dramatically. To my great surprise, the new tins actually allow pouring a glass of stout with as thick, heavy and long lasting foam as if it had come from the barrel.

The secret is that in the bottom of each can is a small plastic bubble that has been filled with nitrogen gas. When the can is opened, the nitrogen is released into the beer, causing a lovely foamy head and small but just sharp enough bubbles. The result is a full, rich beverage, with tempting aromas and flavors that fill the mouth and nostrils nicely.

Frankly, I find this a beverage not to be missed. Be sure, however, that the cans are cooled in the refrigerator for a minimum of two hours before serving. If the cans are opened when too warm the stout will bubble out uncontrollably, making a mess of one's tabletop and clothing.

© Daniel Rogov