Last year was the first time in which I decided to post a list of what I considered the best wines released in that year. I restricted myself then to fifty wines. This year I decided to "go all the way" and list one hundred. I make no claim that these are the best wines released during the year. Nor have I tasted all of the great wines released this year. This list does, however, represent the best that were released in Europe and Israel during 2001 and that came my way for tasting. As is said: "One Critic's Choice".

Although I have already had advance tastings of the red Burgundy wines of 1999, those are only now starting to make their way to market and will thus be the topic of a separate tasting report. I must say, however, that many of those wines seem destined to make their way onto next year's list!!

France

Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee des Cadettes, 1998: Complex and elegant, with layer after layer of ripe fruits, spices, coffee, leather, truffles and even hints of citrus and hazelnuts in its flavors and aromas, this full bodied and remarkably powerful wine shows the kind of perfect balance that bodes well for long-term aging. As the wine does age, it will become even more lush and will show beautiful gamey notes. If you have a case or more in your cellar, I will forgive you for being curious enough to drink one now, but the wine will be at its best only in another 5 - 6 years. Count on it to cellar well through 2030 or even longer. Score 97+. (Tasted 20 Apr 2001)

Domaine de la Vielle Julienne, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Villes Vignes, 1998: Full bodied and with intriguing interplay between the fruits (black cherry, currants, wild berries) and other flavors and aromas (chocolate, vanilla, hazelnuts and cedar wood), this deep, remarkably rich wine will be at its best between 2005 - 2025. Score 97+ (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle, 1998: Forgive me for quoting my daughter again, but this is indeed "a wine to die for". Full bodied, concentrated and powerful, but through all of that this is a remarkably elegant and well balanced wine. Still tannic and closed but already showing a tempting nose of spices and fruits, flavors of plums, coffee and vanilla. As it opens, the wine will reveal the peppery and dark chocolate flavors that typify this often great wine. Hold for 4 - 5 years and then look forward to fine drinking until 2025 - 2030. Score 97. (Tasted 8 Nov 2001)

Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Roussane Blanc, Vielles Vignes, 1997: The chance to taste white Chateauneuf at its very bests. So thick and rich that if it were not dry you might swear it came from Barsac, with white peaches, nectarines, spring flowers and butter-nuts in its flavors and aromas. Ready now but don't hesitate to hold the wine for another 4 - 5 years. Score 97. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Bosquet des Papes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache, 1997: Plums, chocolate, minerals, tobacco and appealing barnyard aromas and flavors are only a few of the treats you will find waiting for you in this time. Full bodied, remarkably deep and with plenty of tannins and fine balance this exquisite wine will only start to be at its best in another 4 - 5 years. A wine that should age beautifully for a quarter of a century or more. About $40 in the U.S.A. Score 97. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Domaine de Marcoux, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Vielles Vignes, 1998: A superb wine by any standard!
Lots of red currants, blackberries, plums all over a complex background of minerals and oak. Full bodied, and with perfect balance between tannins and fruits, this is a wine that is absolutely delicious now but will be equally good in 23 more years. Score 97. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Paul Coulon, Cheateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Domaine de Beaurenard, 1999: Perhaps the best white Chateauneuf in the last 30 years!!! Full bodied, rich, exquisitely balanced and with stewed quince, pears, minerals, toasty oak and vanilla flavors this sensual (don't hesitate to even call it "sexual") wine can be approached now or cellared for another 15 - 20 years. Score 96+. (Tasted 15 May 2001)

Domaine de la Mordoree, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee de la Reine des Bois, 1998: So full bodied that you might consider it "thick", but so well balanced that the wine sits comfortably on the palate and reveals flavors of plums, grilled meat, chocolate and spices, all of which blend beautifully. With remarkably smooth tannins, the wine can be enjoyed now or in the next 10 - 15 years. Score 96+. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Yves Cuilleron, Condrieu Ayguets, Late Harvest, 1999: Made from botytized grapes this delicious nectar will remind you of the wines of Barsac even though it came from the Rhone. Aromas and flavors of dried figs, dates and apricots are set off nicely by spicy, tropical fruits, all of which are complemented by honey flavors, a thick texture and plenty of acids to keep it lively. At its best with fruit based desserts, the wine is drinkable now but will cellar nicely for another decade. An almost perfect dessert wine! Score 96. (Tasted 5 Jan 2001)

Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998: So young that the flavors and aromas of fruits, truffles, tobacco, and oak are almost hidden under a veil, but so well balanced that it is easy to predict that this exceptional wine will develop beautifully in the bottle, leveling out with time to show its depth and luxurious richness. Hold at least 4 - 5 years before drinking and then look forward to a wine that will live comfortably for at least 25 years after that. Score 96. (Tasted 23 Apr 2001)

Le Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998: If there is a term for this wine it is "wild". Wild, but delicious, firm tannins, wild game, wild flowers, wild berries, freshly ground cocoa and coffee beans all blending together in flavors that seem to explode on the palate. Even though it already shows a beautiful sweet finish, the tannins still tend to dominate. Hold for 3 - 4 more years and then drink until about 2015. Score 95+. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Blanc, 1999: A full bodied white, and with a deep citrus, butter and pear characteristics, no one will blame you if you mistakenly take this as a fine, well-oaked Australian Chardonnay. Let the wine open in the glass for 15 - 20 minutes and it reveals a lovely nose and then flavors that linger beautifully on the palate. Drink now or in the next two decades. Score 95+. (Tasted 15 May 2001)

Jean-Marc Boillot, Pulighy-Montrachet Champ-Canet, 1999: Pear, green apple and dried apricots come together beautifully in this full bodied, harmonious and well balanced white wine. With mouth-filling flavors that linger nicely this is a wine to hold another year or two and then drink until 2010 - 2012. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Chateau Carbieres, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Prestige Tete de Cru, 1998: Thick, rich, dense and packed with black and purple plum flavors and the kind of ripe game smells that Englishmen so adore, but with remarkable finesse, this smooth and delicious wine will be irresistible now or in the next decade. Score 95. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Domaine Paul Autard, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee la Cote Ronde, 1997: Deep, tannic and full bodied but remarkably smooth. Lots of ripe plums, black cherries, currants come together beautifully with tobacco, coffee and spice and mineral flavors and aromas. Approachable now but the wine will be at its best only in another 4 - 5 years and will then cellar nicely until 2025 or longer. Score 95. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Chartron & Trebuchet, Batard-Montrachet, 1999: Full bodied and with enormous depth and length with exquisite pear, apple and spring flower aromas and flavors, this rich and delicious wine is drinking beautifully now but should cellar well until 2010. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michel Coutoux, Mersault Les Charmes, 1999: Depth, power and elegance come together beautifully in this remarkably complex white wine. As the wine sits on the palate look for flavors and aromas of citrus (pomello and limes) comfortably married to attractive hints of earthiness, minerals and Mediterranean herbs. Approachable now but the wine will come to its best only in another year or so and will then hold nicely until 2008 - 2010. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bernard Moreau, Chasagne-Montrachet, La Maltroie, 1999: Passion fruit, guava, and coconut are among the tropical fruits that make themselves felt through layers of herbal and mineral flavors and aromas in this elegant and full bodied white. Drinkable now, the wine should cellar nicely until the end of the decade. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Embrazees, 1999: With quiet but marked elegance, this is the kind of wine that makes a liar out of those who say that whites cannot be as complex as reds. Full bodied and with delicate citrus, earthy and mineral notes, the flavors are overlayed with layer after layer of oak, honey and spices, and with flavors that linger beautifully long after the wine has been swallowed. Drink now - 2005. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Champgains, 1999: You'll find some pineapple and green apples here but the real character of this full bodied wine comes from its toasted oak and nutty nose. Deep and complex, with flavors that unfold nicely on the palate, the wine should be held for a year or two and then will drink nicely until the end of the decade. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Ramonet, Batard-Montrachet, 1999: Medium to full bodied, with plenty of fruits overlaid by generous eucalyptus and mineral flavors and aromas. Still young, this luscious white wine needs time to open in the glass, but once it does its offers an "oh wow" mouthful. The wine will cellar nicely for 8 - 10 years. Score 95. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Chateau Smith-Haute-Lafite, 1998: Full bodied, packed with intense tannins and with exquisite flavors and aromas of black currants, wild berries, herbs and damp hay, this is a wine to set aside for long term storage. The wine will be at its best starting in about 2006 and will then continue to develop nicely in the bottle for another decade. Score 95. (Tasted 18 Jul 2001)

Bouchard Pere et Fils, Corton-Charlemagne, 1999: As full bodied as one could hope for, and with tempting pear, citrus, mineral and sweet herbal flavors, this rich and sophisticated wine will start to come into its own only in another 2 - 3 years. After that, the wine should cellar nicely until 2010- 2010. Score 94+. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

La Chablisienne, Chablis, Premier Cru, 1999: The minerals, fruits, vanilla and spices in this wine need time to come together but when they do, they promise to be absolutely lovely. Hold for another year or two and then look forward to good drinking until the end of the decade. Score 94. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Domaine Font de Michelle, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee Etienne Gonnet, 1998: An exquisite combination of red fruits and wild berries together with chocolate, roasted nuts and vanilla come together with elegance and grace in this full bodied wine. Ready for drinking now but the wine will cellar nicely for another 10 - 12 years. Score 94+. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Paul Coulon & Fils, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine de Beaurenard, 1998: As is the case with many fine red Chateauneufs, this one has appealing flavors and aromas of damp earth. That is only the beginning of the story, however, for over and under that you will find plenty of red and purple fruit, mocha and vanilla flavors, all of which are set off by smooth tannins and nearly perfect balance.
Score 94. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Michael Coutoux, Mersault Les Genevieres, 1999: Concentrated and full bodied, and not so much dominated by fruits as it is by grass, damp earth, and flowers (look for aromas of heather, jasmine and lemon leaves), this wine will remind many more of a Bordeaux or Australian Sauvignon Blanc than it will of a Burgundy Chardonnay. Despite whatever intellectual discombobulation it may cause, the wine is delicious. Not for everyone perhaps but those who like it will absolutely adore it. I was one of those who liked it! Score 94. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Chateau la Gardine, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998: Gamy, earthy and mineral flavors and just enough black fruits and spices come together beautifully in this highly tannic but well balanced wine. Give the wine another 3 - 4 years for the tannins to settle down and you will leather, coffee, bitter chocolate and vanilla coming to the surface. Score 94. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Guigal, Cote Rotie, Chateau Ampuis, 1997: Drink this full bodied and delicious wine and you will know what we critics mean when we write about "smoky wines". Happily, in addition to the smoky oak and toasted flavors and aromas you will find just the right balance between berry, cherry and plum aromas and enough natural acids to keep the wine lively and fresh. Drink now if you must, but the wine will be even better between 2003 - 2010. Score 94. (Tasted 17 Mar 2001).

Pierre Matrot, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Chalmeaux, 1999: I know that some people say that you cannot taste flint, but it remains clear to me that when a wine is "flinty" everyone will recognize that. Thus, I am not embarrassed to write that this is a medium to full bodied flinty and mineral rich wine, one with just enough citrus and herbal flavors and aromas to come together beautifully. Drinkable now, but I suggest holding the wine and making the very best of its charms from 2003 - 2010. Score 94. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Louis Bernard, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998: So packed with tannins, oak and berry flavors you might think that this wine was designed for California Zinfandel lovers. Don't let that stop you though, for after 15 minutes in the glass the wine opens to reveal dark chocolate, light resin and toast flavors.
Hold for at least 3 - 4 more years and then drink through 2012 - 2015. A wine worth cellaring. Score 93+. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Guigal, Cote Rotie, La Landonne, Premiere Cru, 1997: As deep in color as it is in texture and flavors, this is a wine that bursts forth with wild berry, cherry, currant fruit flavors all overlaid by generous hints of toast, cumin, nutmeg and minerals. Approachable now but the wine will show its best only in another 2 - 3 years, and will then cellar well until about 2010. Score 93+. (Tasted 17 Mar 2001)

Guigal, Cote Rotie, La Mouline, 1997: As one has come to expect, this wine is so dark in color that you might think it black. Not as good as the superb 1995, but still superb, with plum, currant, chocolate and lots of oak. Even though you can count on this wine to age for another decade or so, it is approachable now. Be sure, however, to let it open in the glass for 15 minutes or so to feel precisely how seductive the wine is. Score 93+. (Tasted 17 Mar 2001)

Bosquet des Papes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998: With an abundance of firm tannins, but so well balanced that it can be approached even now, this full bodied, highly traditional Chateauneuf reveals plum, berry and black currant flavors all coming together with aromas and flavors of roasted nuts.
Flavors that linger on and on make the wine additionally appealing. Best from 2002 - 2020. Score 93. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Louis Carillon, Pulighy-Montrachet, Les Champs Canet, 1999: White Burgundy for those who love white Burgundy wines. Full bodied and almost thick on the palate, with flavors of lemon pie and plenty of vanilla and oak, a very well balanced wine destined for long term cellaring. Drink now or until 2008 - 2010. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Marc Colin, Chassange-Montrachet Les Caillerets, 1999: A literal bouquet of fruits, minerals and flowers here in this delicious full bodied wine. Look for pear, apple, heather, smoke and even light overtones of honey, and oak in this long, long wine. Drink now or in the next 8 - 10 years. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October, 2001)

Alex Gambal, Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos St.-Jean, 1999: Not much of this wine was made. All of which is a shame because this remarkably full bodied wine is a Chardonnay lover's dream. With plenty of pomello, lemon and citrus flowers in its aromas and flavors and with complex layers of lady fingers (those lovely cookies that the Italians love so much), toast, herbs and oaky flavors this remarkably full bodied wine is a Chardonnay lover's dream. Not much was made, so you may really have to hunt for this one. Well worth the effort. Score 93. (Special 1999 Burgundy tasting, October 2001)

Chateau la Gardine, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee des Generations, 1998: Not a wine for everyone, but those who enjoy aromas and flavors of asphalt, stewed fruit, dark chocolate and leather in their wines will find this one absolutely fascinating. Full bodied and almost black in color, and with flavors that linger beautifully, the wine will be at its best between 2004 - 2010 or longer. Score 93. (Tasted 14 May 2001)

Guigal, Cote Rotie, La Turque, 1997: Complex, deep, well balanced and with an abundance of currants, blackberries and plums, all overlayed with aromas and flavors of freshly toasted bread.
Lots of oak, smooth tannins and flavors of coffee and chocolate that linger on the palate. Drink now or until about 2006. Score 93. (Tasted 17 Mar 2001)

Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, Grandes Ruchottes, 1999: Medium bodied and beautifully balanced, this tempting wine boasts lime and grapefruit flavors together with hints of honey, dried fruits and just a hint of flintiness. Drinkable now but the wine should cellar until the end of the decade. Score 93. (Special Burgundy Tasting, October 2001)

Le Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1999: Full bodied and with enormous depth of fruit, this well balanced wine is redolent with aromas and flavors of dark fruit, truffles, leather and pepper. A very different wine than the '98, with fewer tannins but no less exquisite balance. Ready to drink from 2002 - 2003 and then comfortably until 2010. Score 93. (Tasted 17 Oct 2001)

Italy

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Bolgheri Ornellaia, 1998: As we have come to know in past years, this full bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, has an abundance of black cherry, wild berry, oak and chocolate flavors, all with hints of tobacco and herbs creeping in at the end. Well balanced and with already silky smooth tannins, this elegant wine may even be better than the superb '97. The wine is approachable now but will begin to reveal its full glory only in another 5 - 10 years. If you miss that date, not to worry, for the wine should cellar well until 2015 - 2020. Score 98. (Tasted 14 Oct 2001)

Gaja, Barbaresco, 1997: Made entirely from Nebbiolo grapes and aged in 1500 liter oak casks for nearly 18 months, this is one of the very best Barbaresco wines you will ever find. Full bodied and
remarkably intense, with flavors of wild berries, black plums and spring flowers, calling this wine merely luxurious would be an understatement. Hold until at least 2005 before you even start to think about drinking this wine which will cellar well until 2035 - 2050. If I had to find a single word to summarize this wine that word would be "exquisite". Score 97.

Gaja, Spress, 1997: Nebbiolo at its most exquisite! Full bodied and with an abundance of earthy, herbal and black cherry flavors and aromas all complemented nicely by hints of petroleum. Extravagant in its tannins and its deep color, but promising to show remarkable levels of elegance as it continues to develop, this is a wine to beg, borrow or steal (well perhaps not steal, but certainly worth a bit of begging!). Score 97.

Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, 1998: Full bodied, and with superb balance between fruits, acidity and tannins, this is one of the finest Sassicaia wines in a decade. In addition to dominant aromas and flavors of black currant fruits and leaves, wild berries, earthiness and chocolate look as well for hints of black truffles, tobacco and herbs, all blending together with depth and elegance. Because of its youth, the wine is still closed and brooding, but give it another 2 - 3 years and it will be drinking beautifully. Even then, a wine that will be at its best only from 2005 - 2030. Score 97. (Tasted 8 Nov 2001)

Allegrini, La Poja, Verona, 1997: One of the greatest wines ever made in this region and perhaps the best ever from Allegrini. Full bodied, concentrated and with enormous depth, this well balanced and delicious wine boasts flavors and aromas of black cherries, plums all with herbal, smoky overtones. Hold for another 2 - 3 years and then look forward to exquisite drinking until about 2007. Score 96.
(Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Fattoria Le Pupille, Saffredi, Tuscana, 1997: The term Super-Tuscan is too often abused, but in this case it applies 100%. A blend, I believe of primarily Cabernet with some Sangiovese, this full bodied and complex wine is still in its infancy - loaded with tannins but with plenty of dark fruit, herbs and hints of tobacco and lead pencil aromas and flavors, all of which come together beautifully. The wine needs time, so hold it for at least 2 - 3 more years before starting to drink it. Score 96. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Argiano, Solengo, 1997: A truly super Super Tuscan. Full bodied and tannic and still in its infancy, this superbly balanced wine offers up exquisite berry, cassis and vanilla aromas and flavors, all overlayed by cigar box, oak and spring flower aromas that come together in elegant ways. Intense, deep and rich, this is a wine to be set aside for at least two to three years and will then cellar nicely until 2010. Score 95+. (Tasted 20 Dec 1999)

Gaja, Barbaresco, San Lorenzo, 1997: A fabulous Piedmont wine, with layer after layer of fruits and flowers that unfold on the palate. Full bodied, compact and very well balanced and with flavors that linger on and on. Set aside for at least 5 years and then look forward to good drinking until 2010 - 2015. Score 95. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Ornellaia, 1998: Think of this deep, luxurious wine as the younger brother of the 1990 Ornellaia if you will but that does not stop it at all from being superb in its own right. Full bodied, absolutely packed with still tight tannins that promise to smoothen out beautifully in the next year or to, and with incredibly rich aromas and flavors of black cherries, tobacco, oak, and light meaty aromas that tantalize the palate. The wine is approachable now but will only be at its best in another 3 - 4 years. After that look forward to increasingly good drinking until 1010 - 1015. A suggestion - try this one at the same time as a fine Pauillac from Bordeaux and marvel at how the same grapes can yield such vastly different wines. Not quite the 1990 Ornellaia , and not quite the 1997, but still earning a very respectable score of 95. (Tasted 17 Oct 2001)

Allegrini, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Corte Giara, 1997: Concentrated and intense on both the nose and the palate, this luxuriant Veneto wine has flavors and aromas of cherries, berries, vanilla and spring flowers, all with an appealing layer of earthiness. A full bodied blend of Corvine Veronese, Rondinella and Molinara grapes, the wine is still quite closed because of its youth but promises to open beautifully in 3 - 4 years and then cellar well until 2012- 2015. Score 94+. (Tasted 6 Nov 2001)

Tenuto San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia, 1997: There is a certain movement afoot of those who tend to dismiss Sassicaia as a "once-was". What can I say, except that Sassicaia still is and promises to go on being for quite a while and this wine demonstrates that beautifully. Royal purple in color, this full bodied wine has exquisite balance between smooth tannins, fruits and natural acids. Look for currants, wild berries, rosemary, mint and oregano in the aromas of this elegant and delicious wine and then look for flavors that continue to unfold on the palate long after the wine has been swallowed. The wine should be at its best between 2004 - 2010, and that best is just fine with me. Score 94+. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Tedeschi, Recioto, Capitel Monte Fontana, 1997: A blend of Rondinella, Corvina and Corviinone grapes that dried for three months before being pressed and then aged for two years in large oak barrels. Full bodied, royal purple in color and with a sweet, rich bouquet that includes black cherries, blueberries, and licorice, this elegant and delicious sweet red wine is a superb match to Gorgonzola and other blue cheeses. The 1995 wine received a score of 93+. This one is even better and promises to live comfortably for 15 - 20 years. Score 94+. (Tasted 3 Mar 2001)

Allegrini, Palazzo della Torre Veronese, 1997: After having spent almost a year and a half in French oak barrels and being made according to the ripasso method (which involves letting the wine develop in oak barrels on the coarse sediments left by older, heavier wines), this full bodied wine is loaded with smooth tannins and boasts deep flavors and aromas of plums, black cherries, dried raisins and spices.
Deep royal purple in color, the wine is almost ready to drink and will be at its best between 2002 - 2008. Score 94. (Tasted 22 Jul 2001)

Antinori, Pinot Nero della Salla, 1997: What my daughter calls an "oh wow" wine, because as the flavors continue to unfold, seemingly without end on the palate, one is tempted to call out in utter delight. Medium to deep red in color, with silky tannins and perfect balance between those and the acids and fruits (look especially for raspberries, cherries and even a generous hint of cranberries), this is a wine to drink now but to treasure in another 4 - 5 years. Have no fear though, the wine should cellar nicely until 2008 - 2010. Score 94.

Castello Banfi, Excelsus, Sant'Antimo, 1997: Full bodied, concentrated and as loaded with smooth tannins as it is with an exquisite array of flavors and aromas that include black currants, wild berries, cassis, licorice, pepper and vanilla. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this truly Super-Tuscan wine has an almost black color which, when held up to the light reflects a remarkable orange corona. Hold for at least two more years before drinking and then do not hesitate to store until 2010 - 2015. Score 94. (Tasted 24 Feb 2001)

Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997 (Advance Tasting): So dark in color that one might think of it as black, this intense and deep wine shows off with luxurious berry, cassis and mint flavors and aromas. After three years in large Slovanian oak casks, this full bodied, elegant and luxurious wine has flavors that linger seemingly without end. Still in its infancy, the wine is scheduled for release only in another six months but then should be held for at least 3 - 4 years before drinking. A wine that will age nicely for 10 or more years. Score 94. (Tasted 24 Feb 2001)

Aldo Conterno, Barolo, Vigna Cicala, 1997: Made as it always is, entirely from Nebbiolo grapes, this full bodied wine has deep, rich flavors of blackberries, plums, black cherries and herbs, all coming together with light mineral overtones. Despite its youth, approachable now but the wine will only be at its best in another 3 - 4 years, and will then cellar well for a decade or so longer. Score 94. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Frescobaldi, Mormoreto, 1997: If the '95 and '96 Mormoreto wines were merely excellent, this one is splendiferous! Full bodied, and packed with smooth tannins, this blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc has rich and satisfying cassis, wild berry and herbal aromas and flavors, all of which come together beautifully on the nose and the palate. When they first coined the phrase "elegance on a grand scale" it must have been this wine they anticipated. Approachable now but this is a wine that will be at its best between 2004 - 2010. Score 94. (Tasted 3 Aug 2001)

Gaja, Gaia and Rey, Chardonnay, 1999: To see the difference a year can make in style if not quality, see the notes on this wine form the 1998 vintage. Equally full bodied and buttery, but this one shows luxurious pear, spice and peach flavors and excellent balance and flavors that linger beautifully on the palate, the wine is drinking beautifully now but should develop beautifully with good cellaring for another 4 years. Score 94. (Tasted 17 Oct 2001)

Tedeschi, Amarone, La Fabriseria, 1997: Those who love complex, deep and bitter Amarone wines will adore this one! Full bodied, powerful and concentrated but still elegant and subtle, this extraordinary wine shows excellent balance between tannins, fruits and the appealing bitterness that typifies the very best Amarone wines. As in the past, do not be surprised as you sip this wine if it calls to mind an excellent Port. Score 94. (Tasted 3 Mar 2001)

Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico Reserva, 1998: Again happily surprised to see that the '98 wine is even better than the wine from the "great" '97 vintage. Full bodied, with an extraordinary range of fruits (among other things look for red and black berries, black currants and black plums), as well as lovely hints of damp earth and the promise of tobacco and chocolate yet to develop, this aromatic, very well balanced wine is destined to a long, comfortable life in the bottle. Approachable now but the wine will be at its best only between 2003 - 2008. Score 93+. (Tasted 23 Aug 2001)

Frescobaldi, Chianti Rufina Riserva, Castello di Nipozzano, 1997: As we have come to expect, this wine is a blend of Sangiovese, Cannaiolo, Trebbiano and Malvaisia grapes with just a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in for good measure. Whatever, this remarkably successful wine is probably the best ever bottled under this label. Intense and full bodied, but retaining a quiet sense of elegance, with an already deep garnet color, the wine is rich with stewed plum, currant, black cherry, mineral and herbal (look especially for oregano!) aromas and flavors. Finely tuned and with flavors that linger beautifully the wine is already approachable but will attain its best in only another 4 - 5 years. Even then, there will be no cause to worry, for the wine should cellar nicely until 2006 - 2008. Score 93+.
(Tasted 22 Aug 2001)

Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico, Bellavista, 1997: The first wine I had from this marvelous Chianti producer was their 1990 and to date I have yet to find Chianti Classico that more enchants me. And what is unusual is that this has been true every year! Full bodied and with aromas and flavors of berries, cherries, wild flowers, minerals and spices that open beautifully on the palate. Smooth tannins and flavors that linger beautifully make the wine drinkable now but you will do well to hold it and drink between 2003 - 2007. Score 93. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Antinori, Tignanello, 1998: Complex, elegant, multi-dimensional, and packed with flavors and aromas of currants, plums and other black fruits, all with appealing hints of vanilla, this delicious medium to full bodied wine shows fine tuning in its balance and has flavors that linger beautifully. Let the wine develop in the bottle for several years longer and you will start to find flavors of chocolate and mint sneaking quietly but comfortably in. Approachable now but the wine will be at its best only in another 2 - 3 years. Cellar until 2008 - 2010. Score 93. (Tasted 6 Nov 2001)

Antinori, Chianti Classico Riserva, Badia a Passignano, 1998: Everybody (including me) wrote in superlatives about the 1997 vintage in Tuscany, but many of the 1998 wines are proving every bit as delicious. This exquisite full bodied red wine, for example, has an impressive range of fruits and tannins, all very well integrated. Made entirely from Sangiovese grapes that spent about 15 months in oak casks, the wine is aromatic, showing berry, cassis, wet earth and a long fruity finish. If you liked the '97 (which earned a score of 92) you'll adore this one. Score 93. (Tasted 23 Jul 2001)

Argiano, Solengo, 1998: Not up to the extraordinary standards of the 1997 wine, but that should disapppoint no-one as this medium to full bodied wine has plenty of blackberry, cassis and tobacco flavors and aromas, all complimented nicely by hints of chocolate and violets. Smooth tannins and flavors that linger very nicely indeed. Drink starting in 2003 and then almost until the end of the decade. Score 93. (Tasted 22 Dec 2000)

Maculan, Tocolato, 1997 and 1998: Deep gold in color, this full bodied dessert wine is made from a combination of Vespaiola, Gargenaga and Tokay grapes, all of which come together in a wine that will make you think of the best of Sauternes. There are subtle differences between the wines of the two vintage years, the '97 having more vanilla and stewed apples, the '98 hinting more of creme brulee but both are honeyed, have plenty of balanced acidity and just the right touch of the oak casks in which they aged. Saying that one is "better" than the other is rather silly which means of course that both are worth trying. Drinking well now, both should store well until 2020. 375 ml. bottles cost NIS 200.
Score for both wines: 93.

Planeta, Chardonnay, 1999: Aged for 1 year in new French oak barrels, this full bodied, alcoholic wine comes together beautifully. With a beautiful core of apple and quince surrounded by tropical fruit flavors and aromas of vanilla, pineapple and apricots and with flavors that linger long and comfortably on the palate, this is an extraordinary effort. Drink now or in the next 4 - 5 years. Score 93. (Tasted 24 Jul 2001)

Val di Suga, Brunello di Montalcino, Spuntali, 1993: A fruity Brunello, but with plenty of spices and wet hay overlaying the plums, wild berries, black cherries in the flavors and aromas. Good balance between vanilla-oaky flavors and smooth tannins make this dark, full bodied wine drinkable now but the wine will be even better between 2003 - 2007. Score 93. (Tasted 5 Nov 2001)

Castello di Fonterutoli, Siepi, Tuscana, 1998: Almost as good as the superb '97 version, this full bodied wine boasts an abundance of wild berry and chocolate flavors. Concentrated and with smooth tannins. Overall, an elegant wine that will be at its best between 2003 - 2010. Expensive but well worth trying. Score 92+. (Tasted 2 Jan 2001)

Argiolas, Korem, Isola de Nuraghi, Sardinia, 1998: Loaded with silky smooth tannins, and packed with almost jam-like fruits and plenty of vanilla, this full bodied and tannic wine shows off with its abundance of plumk coffee, leather, smoke and vanilla. After about 12 months in French oak barrels, this highly successful blend of Bovale Sardo, Carignan, Cannonau, Syrah and Merlot is ripe and subtle, and has flavors that linger on and on. Drink now or for until about 2007. Score 92+. (Tasted 16 Jan 2001).

Hofstatter, Pinot Nero, Vigna S. Urbano, 1998: A first sip made me think that I was drinking a Burgundy Grand Cru. A few minutes later though I realized that this wine had a kind of earthy-smoky flavor that does not typify those wines, and I was put to the test, perhaps guessing successfully that the wine was in fact from Italy's Alto Adige region. Whatever, deep red-purple in color, with orange and silver tints as it is held up to the light, this medium bodied Pinot Noir has excellent balance between acids, tannins and fruits. Aged in small oak casks for about 10 months, and with plenty of raspberry, black cherry and leathery aromas and flavors, this is a wine that will drink well now or in the next 8 - 10 years. A wine worth going out of the way to find! Score 92+.

Spain

Alvaro Palacios, L'Ermita, 1997: From Priorato, which although the natives deny it, is at least technically part of Catalonia, this exquisite wine is loaded with tannins but those are so smooth and silky they enchant more than put you off even though the wine is still young. Loaded with wild berry, black cherry and red currant flavors, with enchanting overlays of cedar wood, herbs and even hints of leather. Well balanced and deep, with flavors that develop beautifully on the palate, the wine can be approached now but will store nicely for another decade. Score 95+. (Tasted 17 May 2001)

Cims de Porrera, 1998: So dark in color that you might think of it as inky-black, this rich, polished, delicious and mouthfilling red wine has remarkable layers of flavors that include chocolate and coffee in addition to rich raspberry and plums. Made from about 60% Carignan, 30% Grenache, and 5% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo grapes, this harmonious full-bodied wine is irresistible. Try, however to resist, for the wine will be at its best only in another 3 - 4 years and should then cellar nicely until about 2012. Score 94. (Tasted 10 Jun 2001)

Alejandro Fernandez, Tinto Pesquera, Gran Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 1995: A wine so deep you can almost get lost in it. Powerful, with still marked tannins and delicious stewed plum, chocolate and tobacco flavors and aromas this is a wine that is developing marvelously in the bottle and promises to continue developing nicely for another 10 - 20 years. Drink now and you will have great pleasure. Wait a few more years and you will find that your pleasure will increase enormously. Score 93. (Tasted 22 Apr 2001)

Abadia Retuerta, Pago Negralada, 1996: An exciting and elegant wine made entirely from Tempranillo grapes that spent 18 months in French oak casks. Well rounded, deep and with appealing dark plum, dried cherry and spice flavors, with pepper and game notes lingering nicely on the palate. Smooth tannins and good balance make this wine ready to drink now but that can cellar nicely for 4 - 5 years longer. Score 93. (Tasted 3 June 2001)

Alejandro Fernandez, Pesquera Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 1996: Luscious and deep, this full bodied red has remarkable levels of tannins and spices but those are offset comfortably by flavors of plums, tobacco and an appealing earthy finish. Concentrated and well balanced, the wine will be at its best only in another 2 - 3 years. Score 92+. (Tasted 6 Jan 2001)

Rottlan Torra, Tirnat, 1997: So full of exuberance that the wine has an almost savage side to it, this full bodied Spanish red attacks the palate with its firm tannins and lively acidity. Happily, together with that there are plenty of raspberry, blackberry and licorice flavors and aromas that linger comfortably on the palate and nostrils long after the wine has been swallowed. A wine that is best not with food but with a fine cigar. Drink now if you must, but the wine will be at its best only in another two - three years. Score 92+. (Tasted 8 and 10 Jun 2001)

Austria

Weingut Brundlmayer, Riesling, Trockenbeerenauslese, 1998: Made from hand picked grapes that had been affected by noble rot (botrytis cinerea in Latin; tedlfaule in German), this lusciously sweet, full bodied wine has depth and power, all offset by good balancing acidity. With flavors and aromas of raisins, dried apricots, honey and minerals, this superb wine will be at its very best when sipped side by side with concentrated espresso coffee after dinner. Drink now or during the next decade. Score 95.
(Tasted 2 Jan 2001)

Sepp Moser, Chardonnay, Eiswein, Kremstal, 1997: Deep golden in color this is a wine so thick that it seems to seep rather than pour slowly from the bottle. All of which is fine, for this remarkably full bodied ice wine has exquisite balance between honey, tropical fruits, raisins and spices in its flavors and aromas and with plenty of lively acid to keep it fresh and refreshing on the palate. One of the best from Moser in several years and a lovely accompaniment to cheese cake or the finest Gorgonzola cheese you can find. Drink now or in the next 5 - 6 years. Score 93. (Tasted 12 Aug 2000)

Weingut Brundlmayer, Reisling, Lyra, Heiligenstein, 1999: With apricot, pear and green apple flavors and lime and mineral aromas, this full-bodied, lightly oily Riesling is best categorized as exciting and elegant. With flavors that linger comfortably, this delicious wine is approachable now but will last nicely for another 6 - 8 years. Score 92+. (Tasted 2 Jan 2001)

U.S.A.

Dolce, Late Harvest Napa Valley, 1997: Made in a small winery owned by the partners of Napa Valley's Far Niente, this is one of the few truly great sweet American wines. Made from a combination of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes that have been attacked by botrytis cinerea (the grapes and noble rot that helps make the great wines of Sauternes and Barsac), this full bodied, thick and elegant wine is loaded with honeyed fruits, apricots, peach, orange and vanilla flavors all of which come together on the palate. Intense and elegant the wine can be drunk now or in the next 10 - 15 years. Score 97. (Re-tasted 19 Oct 2001)

Justin, Isosceles, Paso Robles, 1998: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot but have no fear, for no-one will ever think this wine came from Bordeaux. In fact, here may be California at its very best, for after 26 months in French oak the wine is loaded with flavors so diverse that one returns, fascinated, for sip after sip to recognize among them green olives, tarragon, black cherries, currants, plums, anise, and even at the end a hint of white Piedmont truffles As is said, a wine to die for and at only $40 - 50 per bottle, depending on where you find it in the U.S.A., one of the very best buys you will ever make. Drink now if you must, but ideally hold for another 2 - 3 years and then open a bottle every year for the next ten - twelve years. The 1997 version of this wine earned a score of "merely" 94. This one easily comes off with a 96+. (Tasted 3 May 2001)

Whitehall Lane, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1997: Rich and concentrated, this still young wine shows a delicious base of plums and currants all set along a pot-pourri of herbs, spices, chocolate and coffee, all of which come together harmoniously. With flavors that linger on and on, the wine is fully ready for drinking now but will cellar nicely for another decade. Score 96. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Ridge, Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains, 1996: Full bodied and with remarkable depth, breadth and overall balance, no-one will blame you for thinking that this is one of California's very top wines. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and 9% Petit Verdot, the nose is redolent with black currants, plums, and tobacco, all with attractive overlays of damp earth and mushrooms. Flavors that linger beautifully on the palate. Approachable now but the wine will cellar comfortably until at least 2010. Score 95. (Tasted 13 May 2001)

Viader, Napa Valley, 1997: An extraordinary and exquisite marriage between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc but most assuredly a Californian and not a French wine. Medium to full bodied, with plenty of currants, black cherries and oak, nice hints of coffee and Mediterranean herbs. If you must drink the wine now let it open in the glass for at least 20 minutes. Perfectly balanced and with tannins that are already starting to soften, the wine can be approached now, but ideally it will be set aside for four or five years before starting to drink. After that look forward to fine drinking until about 2010.
Score 95. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Merryvale, Profile, Napa Valley, 1997: Absolutely packed with upfront cherry, berry, plum, vanilla, wild berry flavors and aromas and with loads of tannins, this wine sits beautifully on the palate and then lingers on and on. Look for enchanting hints of mint in the aftertaste of this superb wine. Hold for another two to three years, and then until about 2010 or longer. Score 94. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Ridge, Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains, 1998: Even though it was aged in oak for 16 months this beautifully balanced wine is not at all overloaded with wood. Graceful and elegant, with plenty of
citrus, pear, yeast and mineral flavors and aromas and just enough acids to keep it lively, this is a wine that can be enjoyed now or in the next 3 - 4 years. Score 94. (Tasted 13 May 2001)

Ridge, Geyserville, California, 1999: Still a monster, packed with tannins and oak, with fruits struggling to make themselves felt but ye gods, a monster with the promise to develop into a true beauty.After half an hour in the glass, the wine revealed remarkable depth and balance. This may be as good as, if not even better than the lovely '97. The wine will probably be approachable in 2002 but I cannot help but feel that it will be at its best only between 2003 - 2008. Score 93. (Tasted 3 Dec 2001).

Ridge, Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Bello Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains, 1997: Subtle, rich and complex this beautifully crafted and elegant wine has layer after layer of ripe cherry, plum, coffee and spicy oak flavors and aromas. Firm but silky tannins make the wine appealing now but it will age nicely for another 6 - 8 years. Score 92+. (Tasted 13 May 2001)

Australia

Leasingham, Shiraz, Classic Clare, 1997: Reviewing my tasting notes of the last few years, I note that I have gained enormous pleasure from nearly all of the wines in Leasingham's Classic Clare series. This one is no exception. A beautiful Australian Shiraz, this well-balanced medium to full-bodied wine offers layers of juniper berry, pepper and anise flavors that complement good black fruit and wild berry flavors and aromas. Even though the wine can be enjoyed now it will last nicely in the bottle for another 5 - 6 years. Score 93. (Tasted 1 May 2001)

Israel

Castel Winery, "C' - Chardonnay du Castel, 1999: Full bodied and elegant, reflecting the primarily new oak casks in which it was aged, this mouthfilling wine has flavors of nuts, butter, minerals and fruits (apricots and white peaches) that linger comfortably on the palate. The wine is appropriate for drinking now but promises to be even more delicious and complex as it ages. Even better balanced than the 1998 wine which received a score of 95, give the wine another two or three years and look for flavors of figs and toast. Give it another six to seven years and you will be in absolute awe of its complexity. Score 96. (Most recently tasted 22 Sept 2001)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 1999: Even better than the wine from the 1998 harvest, this deep and profound blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) and Merlot (15%) has intense berry, mint and cassis aromas and flavors and ample hints of the oak in which it aged for 14 months. Full bodied but very elegant and refined, with silky tannins and a succulent finish. Sip this side by side with the delicious super-Tuscan Masseto of Ornellaia and you will gasp in amazement that an Israeli wine can be this delicious. Drinkable now but the wine will only begin to reach its peak in another 2 - 3 years. Even then, count on the wine to develop nicely until about 2008. Score 94. (Tasted 24 Aug 2001)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 1999: Dense and full bodied this elegant wine (a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Carignan) offers tempting spice and ripe fruit aromas and flavors of currants, plums, chocolate and coffee. Harmonious, firm and tannic, this is a wine to set aside for at least 2 - 3 years before drinking and then to follow as it develops over the next decade. Score 93. (Tasted 10 Mar 2001)

Argentina

Cobos, Malbec, 1998: This deep purple almost opaque full bodied wine is bound to come as a surprise to those who do not know the potential charms of the Malbec grape. Full bodied, with ample black currants and spices on the palate, with soft tannins that seem to coat the mouth comfortably and a luscious texture, the wine has flavors that linger nicely. Drink now or until 2006. Score 92+. (Tasted 22 May 2001)

New Zealand

Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, 1999: If New Zealand has a super-grape, that grape is Sauvignon Blanc and this is a superb example of that varietal. Full bodied but crisp and refreshing and with a distinct touch of class, you will find plenty of tropical fruits, pears and grapefruit flavors here, all with appealing hints of celery and fresh mown grass, the wine is drinking well now but will cellar nicely for 4 - 6 years longer. Score 93.

© Daniel Rogov